Hardest 5.7 in Yosemite Valley?

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Messages 101 - 111 of total 111 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
phile

Trad climber
SF, CA
May 9, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
A long-time climber told me there used to be a tree at the now-crux of after 6? He got on the route for the first time post-tree a few years ago and got an unpleasant surprise.

That's my vote for the hardest, but I haven't done some of the other contenders.
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
May 9, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Second pitch of Triple direct on Reed's! All 5.7;)
John Ely

Trad climber
DC
May 9, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
The North Dome Regular Route used to be, still is in some places, called 5.7. For long and sustained, and with all kinds of new and strange moves and some routefinding, I certainly wouldn't recommend it for a new 5.7 leader, even one who could manage some of the one pitch delights mentioned above.
The Compruta

Trad climber
New Britain, CT
May 10, 2013 - 05:25am PT
I've done most of the pitches mentioned and I'd have to say the beginning of Doggie Diversions on Camp 4 Wall is the hardest 5.7 I've been on in the Valley but I guess it depends on how comfortable they are in a squeeze chimney.
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
May 10, 2013 - 07:15am PT
The first pitch of the DNB?

The mandatory free pitch off of Awahnee Ledge WFLT?

The final slab pitch of S. Face of North Dome

The grease pitch on After 6

The Ear of the Salathe

The 2nd pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route - Never been able to even figure out the easy far left traversing variation.

Uncle Fanny

The "4th class" approach to WFLT


The DNB pitch is probably the most memorable after a few years. We should just up it to 5.12 to keep the traffic down. Oh yeah all the anchors are chopped too now or extra high gravity bad!!!



Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
May 10, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
Actually I got your answer by far. The South Face of North Dome route in entirety is probably the best sandbag 5.7 full adventure day to be had in Yosemite. Great route, no cake walk, all types of climbing, and a few fun but not bad runouts on a few sections for the grade.
wild willy

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 12, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
Back in the early 70's the Selaginella Wall was considered the hardest 5.7 (that one airy section where you go around an outcrop as I remember)
Pamneal

Trad climber
Valley Village
May 20, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
I know it's 5.8, but I vote for Braille Book being pretty stiff for the grade.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
I think being able to lead Braille Book in good style gives someone a pass to be called solid 5.8 Yosemite climber. It is a great test at that grade IMO.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
May 20, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
The first pitchlet of Sacherer's Crackerer woke me up the most of what I've done---overhanging offwidth 5.7?
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 21, 2013 - 01:52am PT
The 5.7 pitch on Kat pinnacle not to mention the '5.4' loose start.

Leaning Tower Traverse was pretty interesting for 5.6 - heard it called 5.8x (we thought 5.6 pg/awkward)

That little chimney over by bishops seemed stout for the rating.

kev

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