Hardest 5.7 in Yosemite Valley?

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 110 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
I say the slippery After 6

I'm glad someone else thinks that one is slippery. It's better in the Spring than in the Fall, after everyone and his brother have been on it. I think it gets a little cleaned up after the Winter cleaning.

Plaid
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
'Inner Reaches' at Five and Dime . Chuck Pratt 5.7 , a little wide at the top...
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 17, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
I hear a lot of folks say that one or the other coast is harder. Well my experience is i get spanked no matter where I go;)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 17, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
And to be sure I was playing the impish instigator there with my comment highlighting that contextual grab I did from David Lewis concerning getting soft on the West Coast.
It's not like me to troll, really it's not. It's early yet in this nice thread for such behavior. I'll simmer down!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Apr 17, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
i found the first pitch of after 6 to be rather slick as well. not terribly sandbagged, just required full concentration. granted, it was like 8am when we started climbing. i bet it got a little slicker later in the day.
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Apr 17, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
Question oh knowledgeable ones,
Any of the above require a 70m rope?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 17, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
Any 5.6 at Granite Mountain.
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:05am PT
I cannot believe Washington Column Direct has not been mentioned yet. Dayum, that was a very hard day.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:22am PT
What Marty said!

How about Coke Bottle Chimney at Granite Mt?! Thread drift, I know, but damn!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:57am PT
Bruce Morris wrote:
"Tiny Tim" (5.7) not only the hardest 5.7 in the Valley, but also the worst.

I was going to nominate 'Tiny Tim' for both the above mentioned categories. If you haven't done this climb yet, don't!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:36am PT
Any of the above require a 70m rope?
they're all old school so no long ropes required... and you wouldn't think of bailing on a 5.7...
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:48am PT
Thanks Ed, that's what I thought.
bob

climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Coke Bottle is a great 5.7 if one down climbs it. Otherwise, that thing seems a bit stiff........ :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
I cannot believe Washington Column Direct has not been mentioned yet. Dayum, that was a very hard day.

I thought of that route, too, but when I started climbing in the Valley, under the influence of the Red Roper Guide, the Direct Route was the standard, i.e. the definition, of 5.7. I was particularly dubious of this after I led out of the Class-2 forest for the first time. I was gratified later when I did a much easier exit off to the left, that felt about 5.7. The way I exited the first time now has a 5.10a rating. So much for my early route-finding skills!

John
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
The hardest 5.7 in Yosemite is 5.9 or so.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
I thought grades were irrelevant to you Donininini...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
Wrong.......grades are very relevant as a guide for people unfamiliar with a climb. Grade creation that has an ego component and leads to significant over or under ratings of climbs is something i can't understand.
Ratings should be by consensus and then we wouldn't have these silly hardest 5.7, easiest 10a etc. threads.
A better thread would be.....what is the BEST 5.10 you ever did.
In today's world the hardest 5.7 isn't 5.7 and the easiest 10a isn't 10a.
The rating should guide people to the correct climb and not be the defining feature of a climb.
People who are so pleased about how stiff their crag is should get out and travel more.

edit: Sure you can read between the lines in a particular area but not when a particular climb holds on to a forty year old incorrect rating because that is what the FA gave it.

Reading comprehension is a good thing Dannnnnn.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
I thought the 'square slot' on the original route- East Buttress Middle Cathedral, was pretty tough for 5.7.

Not in the valley, but upper pitch of the Yawn comes to mind.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
South Face of North Dome of course! On the edge of the Valley.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
The hardest climb rated 5.7 I ever experienced was Goliath at Suicide. I'm telling you that thing is a sandbagged grunt that seems to go on forever. I remember telling some guy from SP at the base of that climb how hard I thought it was and he tells me "Man you guys must really be out of shape!" I wasn't.

I always thought the 5.7s at the base of El Cap were pretty solid and a whole bunch of fun. There's a 5.7 on the right side of Sunnyside B. (lieback route?) that I remember as pretty awkward though I also remember doing it in a pair of construction boots which may have been the problem.

And I have to agree that Uncle Fanny is the finest introductory sandbag in the Valley and should be renamed "Valley Surprise."
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