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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Apr 17, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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i found the first pitch of after 6 to be rather slick as well. not terribly sandbagged, just required full concentration. granted, it was like 8am when we started climbing. i bet it got a little slicker later in the day.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Apr 17, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Question oh knowledgeable ones,
Any of the above require a 70m rope?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 17, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
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Any 5.6 at Granite Mountain.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Black Rock City
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Apr 18, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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I cannot believe Washington Column Direct has not been mentioned yet. Dayum, that was a very hard day.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Apr 18, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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What Marty said!
How about Coke Bottle Chimney at Granite Mt?! Thread drift, I know, but damn!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 01:57am PT
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Bruce Morris wrote:
"Tiny Tim" (5.7) not only the hardest 5.7 in the Valley, but also the worst.
I was going to nominate 'Tiny Tim' for both the above mentioned categories. If you haven't done this climb yet, don't!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 02:36am PT
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Any of the above require a 70m rope?
they're all old school so no long ropes required... and you wouldn't think of bailing on a 5.7...
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:48am PT
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Thanks Ed, that's what I thought.
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bob
climber
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:08am PT
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Coke Bottle is a great 5.7 if one down climbs it. Otherwise, that thing seems a bit stiff........ :)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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I cannot believe Washington Column Direct has not been mentioned yet. Dayum, that was a very hard day.
I thought of that route, too, but when I started climbing in the Valley, under the influence of the Red Roper Guide, the Direct Route was the standard, i.e. the definition, of 5.7. I was particularly dubious of this after I led out of the Class-2 forest for the first time. I was gratified later when I did a much easier exit off to the left, that felt about 5.7. The way I exited the first time now has a 5.10a rating. So much for my early route-finding skills!
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 18, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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The hardest 5.7 in Yosemite is 5.9 or so.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Apr 18, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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I thought grades were irrelevant to you Donininini...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
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Wrong.......grades are very relevant as a guide for people unfamiliar with a climb. Grade creation that has an ego component and leads to significant over or under ratings of climbs is something i can't understand.
Ratings should be by consensus and then we wouldn't have these silly hardest 5.7, easiest 10a etc. threads.
A better thread would be.....what is the BEST 5.10 you ever did.
In today's world the hardest 5.7 isn't 5.7 and the easiest 10a isn't 10a.
The rating should guide people to the correct climb and not be the defining feature of a climb.
People who are so pleased about how stiff their crag is should get out and travel more.
edit: Sure you can read between the lines in a particular area but not when a particular climb holds on to a forty year old incorrect rating because that is what the FA gave it.
Reading comprehension is a good thing Dannnnnn.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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I thought the 'square slot' on the original route- East Buttress Middle Cathedral, was pretty tough for 5.7.
Not in the valley, but upper pitch of the Yawn comes to mind.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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South Face of North Dome of course! On the edge of the Valley.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Apr 18, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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The hardest climb rated 5.7 I ever experienced was Goliath at Suicide. I'm telling you that thing is a sandbagged grunt that seems to go on forever. I remember telling some guy from SP at the base of that climb how hard I thought it was and he tells me "Man you guys must really be out of shape!" I wasn't.
I always thought the 5.7s at the base of El Cap were pretty solid and a whole bunch of fun. There's a 5.7 on the right side of Sunnyside B. (lieback route?) that I remember as pretty awkward though I also remember doing it in a pair of construction boots which may have been the problem.
And I have to agree that Uncle Fanny is the finest introductory sandbag in the Valley and should be renamed "Valley Surprise."
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 18, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
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+10 for Donnini
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 18, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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How about Zanzabar Dihedral Independance pass? do they still call that 5.7?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
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The rating should guide people to the correct climb and not be the defining feature of a climb.
People who are so pleased about how stiff their crag is should get out and travel more.
Not the point of this particular thread! But yes, agreed.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Apr 18, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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"...and then moved West where they got soft."
I don't consider anything in Vedauwoo to be soft.
--------
edit: Paul Roehl,
Goliath is a GREAT route! I climbed it a couple years ago, and I'd never even seen anybody on it. Ever since, I only ever saw one pair of climbers on it.
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