Hardest 5.7 in Yosemite Valley?

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
So when I went cragging with a few friends in late 2012 we did some 5.9/10s. Than we went and did Kor Beck and Central Pillar of Frenzy last month, and really liked them. Than last week they wend and did Braille Book and Nutcracker. Found Braille Book really hard for 5.8 and Nutcracker to have a super hard lie back for a 5.8 (slippery they said). I pointed out that it is all down the hill for them and soon we will flail on 5.7s.....

I want to hook them up with the hardest 5.7 out there hahaha, got any in mind?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Snake Dike?

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Snake Dyke is a a walk in the [park

I say the slippery After 6
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Uncle Fanny's ... I think that's listed as 5.7
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
Claude's Delight, at the far end of Swan Slab
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
I've had to pull a lot of people through the start of the 5.7 1st pitch of the Jam Crack route. Most of them do fine on the second pitch rated 5.9.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
Tork: Agreed
Norwegian

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
there was this mom in the g-spot of the group campground.
she was at least 5.7
maybe even 5.8, if it weren't for those jugs
that were just within my groping reach.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
The Ear on the Salathe Wall, but the approach might put them off.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
the OW at the top of Sacherer Crack... really....

La Cosita Left... that's a great 5.7
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Aunt Fanny's pantry took the most... work, but it isn't really hard just your everyday 5.7 chimney.

The "5.7" chimney on the RNWF of HD... could be a contender.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
At the end of the day, a hard 5.7 is maybe 5.9.... They'll live.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
First pitch of the DNB, a flared, polished crack that seems rugged for the grade.


The Ear pitch on Salathe as Kevin mentioned too.
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Captain Hook Left
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
After Five
North Dome, South Face Route
The Remnant, Right Side
The RORP

they'll appreciate your recommendations for sure...
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
As is common, what Ed H. said;
La Cosita Left... that's a great 5.7
one of the best short (tiny) pitches in the Valley and I managed to get up it in style (5.7, right?).
Sonic

Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
first pitch of Royal arches....5.6 chimney


gets me everytime

probably cause its the first climb I do everytime I come back to the Valley
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Claude's Delight

No way! Agree with La Cosita Left. Or pretend to be confused and put them on La Cosita Right.
fosburg

climber
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Is the Safety Valve pitch on Lost Arrow Chimney rated 5.7? That seemed stiff...
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
First pitch of Positively 4th Street always gets my attention...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
Send 'em up the first pitch of The DNB
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
There is a near-vertical dihedral with finger or thin-hands crack in the middle of North Buttress of Middle Cathedral. I recall it was 5.7 but pretty serious for the grade.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
First pitch of Freewheelin' - hard in a groudfall kind of way
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
First pitch of the DNB, a flared, polished crack that seems rugged for the grade.
Levy for the win. Haven't done the Ear (yet) but nothing else mentioned even comes close. The first pitch of the Jamcrack is a walk in the park.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Second to the RORP
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
First pitch of Quicksilver is 5.8 and deserves a special mention for the grade. Thread drift warning.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
Could care less....but, whatever it is, it's easier than the hardest 5.7 in the Gunks.

I'll repeat....the hardest of any grade is not that grade, nor is the easiest.

Grades are flawed, subjective and of little importance....climbs are immutable.

Please....start talking about climbs which have permanence and substance and forget grades which are often flawed and ethereal.

Would be nice to have a thread about climbs based on their quality and enjoyment and not about some number someone attached to them.

Nature is perfect.....humans not so much.

Oh yeah....and it's always about Yosemite Valley....great place and historic but just a microcosm in today's climbing scene.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
Isn't Sunnyside Bench Regular Route considered hard for its 5.4 rating?
eKat

Mountain climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:50pm PT

First pitch of Positively 4th Street always gets my attention...

2nd that!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Isn't Sunnyside Bench Regular Route considered hard for its 5.4 rating?

seems like solid 5.5 to me
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:25am PT
hey donini...
and it's always about Yosemite Valley....great place and historic but just a microcosm in today's climbing scene.
it's where Vitaliy's droogs send...

but I agree, if they were in the 'Gunks it would be much more fun...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:30am PT
p1 of the DNB. First time I TRed it, I was feeling proud but totally worked over. I asked about the grade thinking it must have been a pretty impressive number.

The start of Left Side of the Worst Error since they're open to 5.8.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 01:38am PT
"Send 'em up the first pitch of The DNB"

Winner so far. Gotta tell them the whole route is a 5.7 after that recent rock fall...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 01:51am PT
donini is right - it's not about the climb.
But it is about the guidebook - where it got a bit out of whack.
But guidebooks get improved (hopefully).
Examples in this thread:
Captain Hook - Left - 5.7 in '82 guide, 5.7+ in '94 guide, so "somebody is listening". :-)
top of Sacherer Cracker - not rated in '82 guide, is 5.9 in '94 guide.
The Ear - was 5.7 in '82 guide, now 5.8 in '94 guide.
Nutcracker lieback 5.7, but that's when it's dry! I was on it on Sunday just before dark and yikes, it's stout when those holds are wet!
Jamcrack - I agree, both pitches are 5.8 (first with just that one move) - let's fix it. 5.9 for p2 must have been in Robbins boots or something?
Safety Valve - was 5.7 in '82 guide, now 5.9

DNB p1 - must have been rated by somebody with long arms?

I agree that Positively 4th Street (start) and North Dome - South Face are stout for the grade. I'd say 5.8 for both.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:35am PT
Not a big fan of the first move on JC. Second pitch was way fun, I agree 5.8 for both.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:52am PT
Could care less....but, whatever it is, it's easier than the hardest 5.7 in the Gunks.

...and that might be Something Interesting, which is...interesting.

Curt
bob

climber
Apr 17, 2013 - 05:58am PT
That last pitch of The Dihardral was some wonderful, polished, and golden granite where lie backs and loose fingerlocks lob themselves towards the leaders hands and feet. As I cranked the last few moves my head said, "Jeez, this is some great 5.9 climbing!!!" Oops, it was 5.7........... One of the better at that and the summit is special.

Bob J.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:01am PT
Grades are important for us mere mortals. The grade helps us choose a climb that we can get up with some degree of safty. I have often suspected that one of the reasons Seneca has so many accidents is the blatant lies in the guide book.
David Lewis

Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
Apr 17, 2013 - 08:12am PT
Nick
Seneca is not full of blatant lies in the guide book. At every climbing area you need to look at who rated it and when it was done. In the old days 5.9 could be any where from a 5.9 to maybe a 5.11 as 5.9 was assumed to be approaching the impossible. Also, some 5.13 climbers are not good graders below 5.10 as it all seems easy to them, not their fault. I find that a 5.10A is many times easier than a 5.9. Remember back in those days hardman climbs were rated stiffer than by today's standards in many instances. Not every route gets revisited when it comes to grading with guidebook updates. Also, if you are a face climber off widths and cracks may be hard for you but not for others.
Donini said it best,what I heard is that the route is either a classic or it is not based on the quality of the climb.
Ratings are just general guidelines and are subjective. When using guide books, Caveat Emptor.
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 09:01am PT
Casting my vote for the first pitch of the DNB. I know ratings are subjective and all but that thing almost made me quit climbing.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:56am PT
however a 'Gunks climber on thier initial confrontation of the first pitch of Jam Crack at Sunnyside Bench may not agree with Donini's assessment...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Interesting; I've done both the DNB and the Salathe twice each. Factually, the complete DNB once, as the other time we went left at the halfway point to go down Paradise Lost in service of some anchor renewal.

I don't even remember the first pitch to the DNB, so I can't make the comparison, while to me The Ear on the Salathe is certainly the most memorable 5.7 I've had the pleasure of digesting.

I guess hardest doesn't always leave the most impact.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
P1 DNB. A rude, rude awakening. Kinda crushes the psyche and spirit a little as you go "if this is 5.7, we might be in for some trouble higher"
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
I don't know why I have not done pitch 1 of DNB...

Ill get on next week and report back.... If I live!

Like I said before, hard 5.7=5.9... No big deal if u climb 5.9 ;)
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
If it were just the Ear that I could climb day after day in heaven, I'd sure do it. Wet, dry, deaf, waxy, tis all gud cuddly 5.7.

Shorts and a good thick rugby shirt and no need for an Ipod, the choir's just outside...THIRD CLASSING IT, YET! Gotta have a partner, right?

On belay, Candice?

Hard enough for ya?

I guess hardest doesn't always leave the most impact.--Roy, the spoilsport
Bad Climber

climber
Apr 17, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Another vote for the first pitch of the DNB. Done that route twice, and it still feels like one of the toughest pitches! It's what immediately came to mind when I saw the thread title. Sandbaggery?

BAd
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Apr 17, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
Interesting. Agree with y'all that the numbers are just a rough guideline at best and at 5.7 at one crag often means something different at another. It's more about walking up to a route, being able to assess it (in terms of your own abilities), and the experience and quality of the route. Now, we're all perceiving the same things differently, so this is pretty subjective at the end of the day. And if you don't have a lot of experience or confidence in your abilities, then you might tend to rely on the guide book.

That said, Uncle Fanny's was mentioned by Ed at the beginning of this thread. Back when I was a brand new ultra-N00b and just doing my first leads, I got on that route thinking it was Aunt Fanny's Pantry (Don't ask how... just chalk it up to life's rich pageant!). Well, this became obvious pretty quickly. I got a bit wigged out and was in a place where I couldn't go down and and couldn't go up (in my mind at least). So I went sideways and jumped on the face route to the right for the last 15 or 20 feet (and I wasn't much of a face climber in those days!). But man, it felt way better than the original plan! Ha ha!

Clint's take on Jam Crack is interesting too. I lead the first pitch of that on the same trip as Uncle Fanny's and I recall it being fun and nothing heinous (re: the first move). It did eat cams and I filled the thing up, fer sure! Didn't do the second pitch because it was 5.9 in the book (see above!), but heck, I should have gone in for some adventure climbing!

Eric
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
It obviously depends on what you're used to. When I came to the Valley, I was pretty good at cracks, but frightened of friction and face climbing. The last pitch of the regular route on Patio (5.7, but very sparse pro) I found much harder than the first pitch or two of the DNB or either pitch of Jamcrack. After a few years at Indian Rock in Berkeley, the face and slab problems weren't particularly daunting, but Uncle Fanny seemed like a lot of work for a climb that was then rated only 5.6.

John
LB4USC

Trad climber
Long Beach
Apr 17, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Woof. First pitch of After Six. Greasiest thing I've climbed. Had me gripped ... and I wasn't even leading.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 17, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Interesting to see people call out After Six. That was, IIRC, the second pitch I ever lead in the Valley (p1 of jamcrack was the first, on the evening before, and it felt polished but dead easy). I didn't think p1 of A6 was harder than 5.7 then, and have never repeated the route.

What got my attention was being up high where there are some choices and having to do some easy low 5th friction that wigged me out. No holds, no pro (it's probably 5.2 or something), and no idea where the line of least resistance goes. I was a little apprehensive.
LB4USC

Trad climber
Long Beach
Apr 17, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
Might have been a little rattled. Untied to empty my bladder. Buddy upped rope until I shouted to stop. Free-soloed first 15-20 feet to tie in. And, of course, there's never anyone waiting to get on the route to laugh at your misfortune, is there?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
^^^
Figures that the person from SC had problems with a 5.6. Heh heh...
aran

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 17, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Vitaliy,

Just send them out some Sierra '4th class'... that should get their attention!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
Just send them out some Sierra '4th class'... that should get their attention!

Good call. From solid 5.9 leaders my friends will be downgraded to 4th class roped scrambles. I like it.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Apr 17, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
"Tiny Tim" (5.7) not only the hardest 5.7 in the Valley, but also the worst.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
I second Remnant Right 5.7 at Reeds. Very good climb , short approach, and not mach gear to cary.
And also p1 on Mental Block rated 5.6. This pitch is not worth to go without continuation of the other 3 pitches. But this 5.6 can be a crux if you not 6'2"
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 17, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Dave, I have no problems with the rateings @ Seneca and I do know how to read between the lines of a guide book. Heck I tried to lead one of my own 5.9's from 85 or so a few years ago and couldn't do it/ felt 11ish to me now;) the problem with Sceneca is they have a bunch of 5.0 to5.4 climbs that are really 5.5 to 5.8 . that is a range that suckers in total noobs and kills them. They have a lot of accidents there and a lot of fatalitys. Several on a 5.0 that has 5.5 move on it. Lots of accidents on a 5.6 that has a 10aR move on it. etc.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 17, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
Right on Tradmanclimbs. Areas like Seneca are clearly sandbag ratings. I suppose the locals feel some perverse pride in that.
A rating is meant merely to be a guide and shouldn't be the raison d'etre for some big fish in a small pond.
David Lewis

Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
Donini
Some of those people you call locals at Seneca have been considered locals in your neck of the woods for more than 30 years (ie Herb and Jan Conn). Once your locals set a standard, the more recent climbs have to follow their precedent. Remember that a lot of the climbing began on the East Coast and then moved West where they got soft.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
and then moved West where they got soft.
hahahahhaha!
Gauntlet down!
fosburg

climber
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
Another one that comes to mind is the last pitch of Independence Pinnacle, very stout for the 5.7 grade!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
I say the slippery After 6

I'm glad someone else thinks that one is slippery. It's better in the Spring than in the Fall, after everyone and his brother have been on it. I think it gets a little cleaned up after the Winter cleaning.

Plaid
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
'Inner Reaches' at Five and Dime . Chuck Pratt 5.7 , a little wide at the top...
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 17, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
I hear a lot of folks say that one or the other coast is harder. Well my experience is i get spanked no matter where I go;)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 17, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
And to be sure I was playing the impish instigator there with my comment highlighting that contextual grab I did from David Lewis concerning getting soft on the West Coast.
It's not like me to troll, really it's not. It's early yet in this nice thread for such behavior. I'll simmer down!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Apr 17, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
i found the first pitch of after 6 to be rather slick as well. not terribly sandbagged, just required full concentration. granted, it was like 8am when we started climbing. i bet it got a little slicker later in the day.
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Apr 17, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
Question oh knowledgeable ones,
Any of the above require a 70m rope?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 17, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
Any 5.6 at Granite Mountain.
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:05am PT
I cannot believe Washington Column Direct has not been mentioned yet. Dayum, that was a very hard day.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:22am PT
What Marty said!

How about Coke Bottle Chimney at Granite Mt?! Thread drift, I know, but damn!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:57am PT
Bruce Morris wrote:
"Tiny Tim" (5.7) not only the hardest 5.7 in the Valley, but also the worst.

I was going to nominate 'Tiny Tim' for both the above mentioned categories. If you haven't done this climb yet, don't!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:36am PT
Any of the above require a 70m rope?
they're all old school so no long ropes required... and you wouldn't think of bailing on a 5.7...
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:48am PT
Thanks Ed, that's what I thought.
bob

climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Coke Bottle is a great 5.7 if one down climbs it. Otherwise, that thing seems a bit stiff........ :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
I cannot believe Washington Column Direct has not been mentioned yet. Dayum, that was a very hard day.

I thought of that route, too, but when I started climbing in the Valley, under the influence of the Red Roper Guide, the Direct Route was the standard, i.e. the definition, of 5.7. I was particularly dubious of this after I led out of the Class-2 forest for the first time. I was gratified later when I did a much easier exit off to the left, that felt about 5.7. The way I exited the first time now has a 5.10a rating. So much for my early route-finding skills!

John
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
The hardest 5.7 in Yosemite is 5.9 or so.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
I thought grades were irrelevant to you Donininini...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
Wrong.......grades are very relevant as a guide for people unfamiliar with a climb. Grade creation that has an ego component and leads to significant over or under ratings of climbs is something i can't understand.
Ratings should be by consensus and then we wouldn't have these silly hardest 5.7, easiest 10a etc. threads.
A better thread would be.....what is the BEST 5.10 you ever did.
In today's world the hardest 5.7 isn't 5.7 and the easiest 10a isn't 10a.
The rating should guide people to the correct climb and not be the defining feature of a climb.
People who are so pleased about how stiff their crag is should get out and travel more.

edit: Sure you can read between the lines in a particular area but not when a particular climb holds on to a forty year old incorrect rating because that is what the FA gave it.

Reading comprehension is a good thing Dannnnnn.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
I thought the 'square slot' on the original route- East Buttress Middle Cathedral, was pretty tough for 5.7.

Not in the valley, but upper pitch of the Yawn comes to mind.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
South Face of North Dome of course! On the edge of the Valley.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
The hardest climb rated 5.7 I ever experienced was Goliath at Suicide. I'm telling you that thing is a sandbagged grunt that seems to go on forever. I remember telling some guy from SP at the base of that climb how hard I thought it was and he tells me "Man you guys must really be out of shape!" I wasn't.

I always thought the 5.7s at the base of El Cap were pretty solid and a whole bunch of fun. There's a 5.7 on the right side of Sunnyside B. (lieback route?) that I remember as pretty awkward though I also remember doing it in a pair of construction boots which may have been the problem.

And I have to agree that Uncle Fanny is the finest introductory sandbag in the Valley and should be renamed "Valley Surprise."
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
+10 for Donnini
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
How about Zanzabar Dihedral Independance pass? do they still call that 5.7?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
The rating should guide people to the correct climb and not be the defining feature of a climb.
People who are so pleased about how stiff their crag is should get out and travel more.

Not the point of this particular thread! But yes, agreed.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Apr 18, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
"...and then moved West where they got soft."


I don't consider anything in Vedauwoo to be soft.



--------

edit: Paul Roehl,
Goliath is a GREAT route! I climbed it a couple years ago, and I'd never even seen anybody on it. Ever since, I only ever saw one pair of climbers on it.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Not in The Valley, but an interesting aside in Josh, Lynn Hill and Tarbuster did this route in Johnson Canyon they called Spanish Bayonet, they were kids then. They called it 5.7. Consensus these days is about 5.9.

A quick glance at MP to verify that consensus also reveals that Larry Stone and Jeff Sewell were also in on that action.

Anyway it's a great Indian Cove route, and with Rattlesnake closed it gives them that like an approach somethin' fun to do...

(It's one of the harder 5.7s in JT)
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
Positivily 4th Street in the Ditch. And I'm prolly the only idiot here who has scumed up the thing. And I mean scum. The bat quano was slicker than,well....bat sh#t.
TY
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
been there...
the first time I was in Positively 4th Street I remember approaching that flake and wondering where all the stuff came from, putting my hands up in the crack elicited a commotion of squeaks, looking up a large colony of bats were scurrying out of my way... I understood where the stuff came from... it was bat sh#t.

You climb up and around the flake, heading for the bats... they start a squeaky retreat, but you wonder which of those little suckers has rabies... and is crazy enough to give you a nip... none, as it turns out.
Pie

Trad climber
So-Cal
Apr 19, 2013 - 02:43am PT
Direct route on the column
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Apr 19, 2013 - 07:03am PT
It depends. Are you climbing in klettershoes, tennies/Converse, blue Robbins, barefoot, EBs, PAs, sticky sticky rubber, with or without chalk, did you get up on the right side or the wrong side of the tent, what did you do the night before?

I used to free solo the first pitch of Jamcrack, up and down, as a warm-up, and I never found it that difficult (and I am not a great climber), but firstly, I was young, and secondly I'd probably sh*t me pants just following it nowadays. In Dalkey Quarry there is Street Fighter HVS/5.8ish. I followed it recently, boy was I scared.
On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
During my first year of climbing in Yosemite Valley, I was convinced that I must work through the grades in order to make progress. My first lead was Uncle Fanny's, and boy was that a rude awaking. Thinking back, it was a solid first lead, and it made most other 5.7 routes seem easy. Although, on my road through 5.7's, many challenges still awaited. Most notable, first pitch of beggers buttress(the chimmeny), also pygmy pillar 5.7 route, and La cosita left.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
I'm glad to read I'm not the only one who considered Uncle Fanny non-trivial. It didn't help my ego to learn that the first ascent was led fourth class.

The left side of La Cosita, whose first ascent was done by my former law partner, Wally Upton, has to be about the steepest 5.7 in the Valley.

John
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Apr 19, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Hey Kris- -- I don't think we ever really considered Spanish Bayonet a 5.7.
Prolly 5.8+ was how it felt that day on the limp end.

The route to it's right felt like 5.9 to me on the sharp end, but got down-rated to 5.7 alas...

And again Kudos to Tarbuster for opening up our eyes to the possibilities in Johnson Canyon.

chiindi

Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
May 9, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Did snake dike unroped in 1975. Was scarier coming down the cables.
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
May 9, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
The hardest 5.7 I've ever jumped on is Captain Hook, Suicide Rock, Buttress of Cracks Left Sude. A slippery start. BTW, Suicide Rock is a fun place.

Upd. Hernia 5.8 (the same place) is fun. With a hard slab climb TR option from the same anchor.
slidingmike

climber
CA
May 9, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
La Cosita Left nearly shattered my hopes for doing any of the real routes on El Cap...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 9, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
I've already said p1 DNB, but to weigh in on Positively 4th...did that one warm summer afternoon with my bro Andy. We flipped for leads, I chose evens. He started up p1, was a little slow and hesitant and I'm like "WTF dude, just run it to a stance, it's 5.7 or something." Then I followed the pitch found it WAY more slippery and polished than it looked. p2, the "5.9" bit (which is literally about 1 face move), didn't really feel any harder than the "5.7" on p1.

The first 15' or so of Sacherer Cracker is kinda awkward and burl for 5.7
RMLeahy

Trad climber
Yosemite
May 9, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Positively 4th street 1st pitch flake almost shat me out the first 3 times.
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 9, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
Donini is crusty, but wise.
crackaholic

climber
May 9, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
v-try overhang bypass on lower cathedral. some holds fell off. i'd call it solid 5.8+/5.9.
phile

Trad climber
SF, CA
May 9, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
A long-time climber told me there used to be a tree at the now-crux of after 6? He got on the route for the first time post-tree a few years ago and got an unpleasant surprise.

That's my vote for the hardest, but I haven't done some of the other contenders.
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
May 9, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Second pitch of Triple direct on Reed's! All 5.7;)
John Ely

Trad climber
DC
May 9, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
The North Dome Regular Route used to be, still is in some places, called 5.7. For long and sustained, and with all kinds of new and strange moves and some routefinding, I certainly wouldn't recommend it for a new 5.7 leader, even one who could manage some of the one pitch delights mentioned above.
The Compruta

Trad climber
New Britain, CT
May 10, 2013 - 05:25am PT
I've done most of the pitches mentioned and I'd have to say the beginning of Doggie Diversions on Camp 4 Wall is the hardest 5.7 I've been on in the Valley but I guess it depends on how comfortable they are in a squeeze chimney.
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
May 10, 2013 - 07:15am PT
The first pitch of the DNB?

The mandatory free pitch off of Awahnee Ledge WFLT?

The final slab pitch of S. Face of North Dome

The grease pitch on After 6

The Ear of the Salathe

The 2nd pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route - Never been able to even figure out the easy far left traversing variation.

Uncle Fanny

The "4th class" approach to WFLT


The DNB pitch is probably the most memorable after a few years. We should just up it to 5.12 to keep the traffic down. Oh yeah all the anchors are chopped too now or extra high gravity bad!!!



Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
May 10, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
Actually I got your answer by far. The South Face of North Dome route in entirety is probably the best sandbag 5.7 full adventure day to be had in Yosemite. Great route, no cake walk, all types of climbing, and a few fun but not bad runouts on a few sections for the grade.
wild willy

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 12, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
Back in the early 70's the Selaginella Wall was considered the hardest 5.7 (that one airy section where you go around an outcrop as I remember)
Pamneal

Trad climber
Valley Village
May 20, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
I know it's 5.8, but I vote for Braille Book being pretty stiff for the grade.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
I think being able to lead Braille Book in good style gives someone a pass to be called solid 5.8 Yosemite climber. It is a great test at that grade IMO.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
May 20, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
The first pitchlet of Sacherer's Crackerer woke me up the most of what I've done---overhanging offwidth 5.7?
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 21, 2013 - 01:52am PT
The 5.7 pitch on Kat pinnacle not to mention the '5.4' loose start.

Leaning Tower Traverse was pretty interesting for 5.6 - heard it called 5.8x (we thought 5.6 pg/awkward)

That little chimney over by bishops seemed stout for the rating.

kev

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