Hardest 5.7 in Yosemite Valley?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 112 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
Send 'em up the first pitch of The DNB
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
There is a near-vertical dihedral with finger or thin-hands crack in the middle of North Buttress of Middle Cathedral. I recall it was 5.7 but pretty serious for the grade.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
First pitch of Freewheelin' - hard in a groudfall kind of way
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
First pitch of the DNB, a flared, polished crack that seems rugged for the grade.
Levy for the win. Haven't done the Ear (yet) but nothing else mentioned even comes close. The first pitch of the Jamcrack is a walk in the park.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Second to the RORP
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
First pitch of Quicksilver is 5.8 and deserves a special mention for the grade. Thread drift warning.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Could care less....but, whatever it is, it's easier than the hardest 5.7 in the Gunks.

I'll repeat....the hardest of any grade is not that grade, nor is the easiest.

Grades are flawed, subjective and of little importance....climbs are immutable.

Please....start talking about climbs which have permanence and substance and forget grades which are often flawed and ethereal.

Would be nice to have a thread about climbs based on their quality and enjoyment and not about some number someone attached to them.

Nature is perfect.....humans not so much.

Oh yeah....and it's always about Yosemite Valley....great place and historic but just a microcosm in today's climbing scene.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Isn't Sunnyside Bench Regular Route considered hard for its 5.4 rating?
eKat

Mountain climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:50pm PT

First pitch of Positively 4th Street always gets my attention...

2nd that!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 16, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
Isn't Sunnyside Bench Regular Route considered hard for its 5.4 rating?

seems like solid 5.5 to me
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
hey donini...
and it's always about Yosemite Valley....great place and historic but just a microcosm in today's climbing scene.
it's where Vitaliy's droogs send...

but I agree, if they were in the 'Gunks it would be much more fun...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 16, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
p1 of the DNB. First time I TRed it, I was feeling proud but totally worked over. I asked about the grade thinking it must have been a pretty impressive number.

The start of Left Side of the Worst Error since they're open to 5.8.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
"Send 'em up the first pitch of The DNB"

Winner so far. Gotta tell them the whole route is a 5.7 after that recent rock fall...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
donini is right - it's not about the climb.
But it is about the guidebook - where it got a bit out of whack.
But guidebooks get improved (hopefully).
Examples in this thread:
Captain Hook - Left - 5.7 in '82 guide, 5.7+ in '94 guide, so "somebody is listening". :-)
top of Sacherer Cracker - not rated in '82 guide, is 5.9 in '94 guide.
The Ear - was 5.7 in '82 guide, now 5.8 in '94 guide.
Nutcracker lieback 5.7, but that's when it's dry! I was on it on Sunday just before dark and yikes, it's stout when those holds are wet!
Jamcrack - I agree, both pitches are 5.8 (first with just that one move) - let's fix it. 5.9 for p2 must have been in Robbins boots or something?
Safety Valve - was 5.7 in '82 guide, now 5.9

DNB p1 - must have been rated by somebody with long arms?

I agree that Positively 4th Street (start) and North Dome - South Face are stout for the grade. I'd say 5.8 for both.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Not a big fan of the first move on JC. Second pitch was way fun, I agree 5.8 for both.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Apr 16, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
Could care less....but, whatever it is, it's easier than the hardest 5.7 in the Gunks.

...and that might be Something Interesting, which is...interesting.

Curt
bob

climber
Apr 17, 2013 - 02:58am PT
That last pitch of The Dihardral was some wonderful, polished, and golden granite where lie backs and loose fingerlocks lob themselves towards the leaders hands and feet. As I cranked the last few moves my head said, "Jeez, this is some great 5.9 climbing!!!" Oops, it was 5.7........... One of the better at that and the summit is special.

Bob J.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 17, 2013 - 04:01am PT
Grades are important for us mere mortals. The grade helps us choose a climb that we can get up with some degree of safty. I have often suspected that one of the reasons Seneca has so many accidents is the blatant lies in the guide book.
David Lewis

Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
Apr 17, 2013 - 05:12am PT
Nick
Seneca is not full of blatant lies in the guide book. At every climbing area you need to look at who rated it and when it was done. In the old days 5.9 could be any where from a 5.9 to maybe a 5.11 as 5.9 was assumed to be approaching the impossible. Also, some 5.13 climbers are not good graders below 5.10 as it all seems easy to them, not their fault. I find that a 5.10A is many times easier than a 5.9. Remember back in those days hardman climbs were rated stiffer than by today's standards in many instances. Not every route gets revisited when it comes to grading with guidebook updates. Also, if you are a face climber off widths and cracks may be hard for you but not for others.
Donini said it best,what I heard is that the route is either a classic or it is not based on the quality of the climb.
Ratings are just general guidelines and are subjective. When using guide books, Caveat Emptor.
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
Apr 17, 2013 - 06:01am PT
Casting my vote for the first pitch of the DNB. I know ratings are subjective and all but that thing almost made me quit climbing.
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