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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Second to the RORP
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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First pitch of Quicksilver is 5.8 and deserves a special mention for the grade. Thread drift warning.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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Could care less....but, whatever it is, it's easier than the hardest 5.7 in the Gunks.
I'll repeat....the hardest of any grade is not that grade, nor is the easiest.
Grades are flawed, subjective and of little importance....climbs are immutable.
Please....start talking about climbs which have permanence and substance and forget grades which are often flawed and ethereal.
Would be nice to have a thread about climbs based on their quality and enjoyment and not about some number someone attached to them.
Nature is perfect.....humans not so much.
Oh yeah....and it's always about Yosemite Valley....great place and historic but just a microcosm in today's climbing scene.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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Isn't Sunnyside Bench Regular Route considered hard for its 5.4 rating?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Isn't Sunnyside Bench Regular Route considered hard for its 5.4 rating?
seems like solid 5.5 to me
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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hey donini...
and it's always about Yosemite Valley....great place and historic but just a microcosm in today's climbing scene.
it's where Vitaliy's droogs send...
but I agree, if they were in the 'Gunks it would be much more fun...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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p1 of the DNB. First time I TRed it, I was feeling proud but totally worked over. I asked about the grade thinking it must have been a pretty impressive number.
The start of Left Side of the Worst Error since they're open to 5.8.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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"Send 'em up the first pitch of The DNB"
Winner so far. Gotta tell them the whole route is a 5.7 after that recent rock fall...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 17, 2013 - 01:51am PT
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donini is right - it's not about the climb.
But it is about the guidebook - where it got a bit out of whack.
But guidebooks get improved (hopefully).
Examples in this thread:
Captain Hook - Left - 5.7 in '82 guide, 5.7+ in '94 guide, so "somebody is listening". :-)
top of Sacherer Cracker - not rated in '82 guide, is 5.9 in '94 guide.
The Ear - was 5.7 in '82 guide, now 5.8 in '94 guide.
Nutcracker lieback 5.7, but that's when it's dry! I was on it on Sunday just before dark and yikes, it's stout when those holds are wet!
Jamcrack - I agree, both pitches are 5.8 (first with just that one move) - let's fix it. 5.9 for p2 must have been in Robbins boots or something?
Safety Valve - was 5.7 in '82 guide, now 5.9
DNB p1 - must have been rated by somebody with long arms?
I agree that Positively 4th Street (start) and North Dome - South Face are stout for the grade. I'd say 5.8 for both.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 17, 2013 - 02:35am PT
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Not a big fan of the first move on JC. Second pitch was way fun, I agree 5.8 for both.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 17, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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Could care less....but, whatever it is, it's easier than the hardest 5.7 in the Gunks.
...and that might be Something Interesting, which is...interesting.
Curt
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bob
climber
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Apr 17, 2013 - 05:58am PT
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That last pitch of The Dihardral was some wonderful, polished, and golden granite where lie backs and loose fingerlocks lob themselves towards the leaders hands and feet. As I cranked the last few moves my head said, "Jeez, this is some great 5.9 climbing!!!" Oops, it was 5.7........... One of the better at that and the summit is special.
Bob J.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 17, 2013 - 07:01am PT
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Grades are important for us mere mortals. The grade helps us choose a climb that we can get up with some degree of safty. I have often suspected that one of the reasons Seneca has so many accidents is the blatant lies in the guide book.
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David Lewis
Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
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Apr 17, 2013 - 08:12am PT
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Nick
Seneca is not full of blatant lies in the guide book. At every climbing area you need to look at who rated it and when it was done. In the old days 5.9 could be any where from a 5.9 to maybe a 5.11 as 5.9 was assumed to be approaching the impossible. Also, some 5.13 climbers are not good graders below 5.10 as it all seems easy to them, not their fault. I find that a 5.10A is many times easier than a 5.9. Remember back in those days hardman climbs were rated stiffer than by today's standards in many instances. Not every route gets revisited when it comes to grading with guidebook updates. Also, if you are a face climber off widths and cracks may be hard for you but not for others.
Donini said it best,what I heard is that the route is either a classic or it is not based on the quality of the climb.
Ratings are just general guidelines and are subjective. When using guide books, Caveat Emptor.
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Mikemcee
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Apr 17, 2013 - 09:01am PT
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Casting my vote for the first pitch of the DNB. I know ratings are subjective and all but that thing almost made me quit climbing.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 17, 2013 - 11:56am PT
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however a 'Gunks climber on thier initial confrontation of the first pitch of Jam Crack at Sunnyside Bench may not agree with Donini's assessment...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Interesting; I've done both the DNB and the Salathe twice each. Factually, the complete DNB once, as the other time we went left at the halfway point to go down Paradise Lost in service of some anchor renewal.
I don't even remember the first pitch to the DNB, so I can't make the comparison, while to me The Ear on the Salathe is certainly the most memorable 5.7 I've had the pleasure of digesting.
I guess hardest doesn't always leave the most impact.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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P1 DNB. A rude, rude awakening. Kinda crushes the psyche and spirit a little as you go "if this is 5.7, we might be in for some trouble higher"
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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I don't know why I have not done pitch 1 of DNB...
Ill get on next week and report back.... If I live!
Like I said before, hard 5.7=5.9... No big deal if u climb 5.9 ;)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 17, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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If it were just the Ear that I could climb day after day in heaven, I'd sure do it. Wet, dry, deaf, waxy, tis all gud cuddly 5.7.
Shorts and a good thick rugby shirt and no need for an Ipod, the choir's just outside...THIRD CLASSING IT, YET! Gotta have a partner, right?
On belay, Candice?
Hard enough for ya?
I guess hardest doesn't always leave the most impact.--Roy, the spoilsport
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