Hardest 5.7 in Yosemite Valley?

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
So when I went cragging with a few friends in late 2012 we did some 5.9/10s. Than we went and did Kor Beck and Central Pillar of Frenzy last month, and really liked them. Than last week they wend and did Braille Book and Nutcracker. Found Braille Book really hard for 5.8 and Nutcracker to have a super hard lie back for a 5.8 (slippery they said). I pointed out that it is all down the hill for them and soon we will flail on 5.7s.....

I want to hook them up with the hardest 5.7 out there hahaha, got any in mind?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Snake Dike?

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Snake Dyke is a a walk in the [park

I say the slippery After 6
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Uncle Fanny's ... I think that's listed as 5.7
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
Claude's Delight, at the far end of Swan Slab
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
I've had to pull a lot of people through the start of the 5.7 1st pitch of the Jam Crack route. Most of them do fine on the second pitch rated 5.9.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
Tork: Agreed
Norwegian

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
there was this mom in the g-spot of the group campground.
she was at least 5.7
maybe even 5.8, if it weren't for those jugs
that were just within my groping reach.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
The Ear on the Salathe Wall, but the approach might put them off.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
the OW at the top of Sacherer Crack... really....

La Cosita Left... that's a great 5.7
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Aunt Fanny's pantry took the most... work, but it isn't really hard just your everyday 5.7 chimney.

The "5.7" chimney on the RNWF of HD... could be a contender.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
At the end of the day, a hard 5.7 is maybe 5.9.... They'll live.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
First pitch of the DNB, a flared, polished crack that seems rugged for the grade.


The Ear pitch on Salathe as Kevin mentioned too.
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Captain Hook Left
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
After Five
North Dome, South Face Route
The Remnant, Right Side
The RORP

they'll appreciate your recommendations for sure...
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
As is common, what Ed H. said;
La Cosita Left... that's a great 5.7
one of the best short (tiny) pitches in the Valley and I managed to get up it in style (5.7, right?).
Sonic

Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
first pitch of Royal arches....5.6 chimney


gets me everytime

probably cause its the first climb I do everytime I come back to the Valley
fosburg

climber
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Is the Safety Valve pitch on Lost Arrow Chimney rated 5.7? That seemed stiff...
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
First pitch of Positively 4th Street always gets my attention...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 16, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
Send 'em up the first pitch of The DNB
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