Stonemaster Lore


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 121 - 140 of total 206 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Jun 24, 2006 - 02:36am PT
Ahhhh, Roy is drinking one of my favorite tequilas there. I had a nice margie made with Milagro Reposado and Patron Citronge this evening. Almost as good as Patron for a lot less money.


right here, right now
Jun 24, 2006 - 11:07am PT
Now I'm drinking coffee shorty,
While Largo is next door clarifying the active nature of the Enneagram.

What a rich thing this forum is for us.

So Rox, just to cover the base on Vern; you may not know that he recently survived an extracted brain tumor. There have been other threads with posts on that.

Let's raise our glass to one of us who has contributed a ton to the game and who has not slipped away. With the right people posting, like Bob Harrington or Claude, we could have a whole thread on Vern.

Maybe Largo knows something more to tell about Mark Powell?

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Jun 24, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
I spent a good deal of time with Claude in Sonora where we both attended Columbia College in the late 70s. Claude and his cronies (including the very cool Bob Jones) spent their time collecting food stamps, ski patrolling at Bear Mountain, taking a few classes at the college, cragging in the Valley in the Spring and hanging in Tuolomne in the Summers.

Claude had an incredibly good sense of humor and was always a massive kick to party with. Claude, are you there?

right here, right now
Jun 24, 2006 - 01:54pm PT
Bob Jones, Yes and a guy named Dieder?
"Jonesy" is a jewel, I still run into him at least once a decade...

I've trotted this out before on the forum.
Here's to Fiddler's Sense of Humor:

Claude, Hitchcock, Mayfield, Diegelman, Tarbousier

Claude and Jim Keating and I used to do "Theme Climbs", replete with costumes. Above is a drag ascent of the Eunich and Hermaphrodite Flake.

We did an "Italiano Directissima" of Lemberts Direct NW Face.
Yerian and I did a "Western Round Up" of Lucky Streaks.

Hey Spencer:
There is that great shot of you in the Yosemite Climber, on, um Anticipation?
Were you at School in Sonora then?

I'm so over it
Jun 24, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
Very cool thread.
Roger Breedlove

Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Jun 24, 2006 - 03:46pm PT
Theme climbs?


What do you think this is, summer camp?

Where are the angst and the serious facades to uphold, forcryingoutloud?

So, tell me Roy, did you go to hell because of climbing or did climbing go to hell because of you?


PS: Thanks for posting pictures of Bruce, Tom, and Claude.

right here, right now
Jun 24, 2006 - 03:47pm PT

I had help Roger.
The Culprit: Russ Walling, The Fish, Mussy.
He's an exceptional goofball and really took the piss out of the whole shebang.

right here, right now
Jun 24, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
It gets worse Roger (better)
Now would be a good time for me to answer your question about the 80's.

Roger Wrote: "I am really interested in what happened in the 80s and 90s--the future history."

Let me introduce you to my Opus, the prime movement in my Ouvre:
"The Mussy Nebula":

Sit back, enjoy.
You won't find a straight statement in the whole 15 page thread.
Heck, it's mostly about people who were active in the 80's and it didn't even degenerate into actual climbing photos for many pages...

*Credit goes to BVB for propping it up after my photos and scotch ran thin*

Glen Gardner
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2006 - 10:20pm PT

I just read through your post now. That is one hell of great job you did there. Those comments were extremely insightful and very informative. I am going to print them out and reread it because it has so much information. You certainly do put a very interesting perspective on the whole thing. I do also believe (as I mentioned in a previous post) that there is yet an element of random chance in this whole thing. By that I mean, sometimes the conditions are just "ripe" for a certain thing to happen. I believe there was a constellation of factors (some chance; some predictable) which came together and made the scene "ripe" for what evolved from it.

It is sort of like when all the factors get together and make fertile grown for spawning of a tornado. In that analogy, however, the tornado is a fairly common event and moreover it is highly predictable. By contrast, what happened in the scenario you were referencing was much more unusual in terms of events, place and time i.e. it what actually evolved was considerably less "common" (and certainly less predictable) in comparison to the spawning of a tornado. Accordingly, it becomes much more noteworthy, by comparison.

In any event, it was a really nice post as was many of the others..tarbuster, Roks, Ed. etc. All good insights. Sometimes you have to hear a lot of different versions and takes on an event (which you did not personally experience) to get a flavor for it. That is why you cannot really understand anything from reading only one publication which describes something. You have to read or experience a wide variety of perspectives before you can truly internalize what is involved. Great posts!
mark miller

Social climber
Jun 24, 2006 - 10:41pm PT
LEB I don't think you totally get how cool this site can be. How many sites can you go to and talk to Arnold Palmer about golf, A.J. Foyt about auto racing or Johnny Unitas about football. You are talking to legends, and most of them can still bust a move.

Glen Gardner
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
It is precisely because I DON'T "get it" that it is cool. Because, to me, they are just ordinary (but very interesting and intelligent) folks, I am not intimidated or awe struck. Accordingly, I can ask them questions and interact with them in a manner which results in some very insightful and informative remarks.

BTW, interesting, because I am very focused on writing and publishing, John Long becomes (in my eyes) an extremely "impressive" person with respect to this site. Regardless of his climbing feats - which may or may not be noteworty for all know - I am "impressed" by the fact that he gets books and articles published. That fact makes him very "Arnold Palmer-like" to borrow your analogy. See, everything is relative. "Celebrity" becomes a very value driven commodity depending on where you head is.

Social climber
The West
Jun 24, 2006 - 11:15pm PT
Good point Mark, but ya know, I think Lois is here for the same reason that a bunch of us are, it's the quality of the
discourse, sometimes, anyway.

Climbers have a set of built-in Cliff™ notes here, and the significance of various people logging in is a big deal, but it really boils down to what the posters have to say, which is often pretty darn interesting, IMVHO.

To go back a ways, Largo's insights into Bonanza are more interesting the more I think about them. It doesn't matter if you don't know who Largo is in the climbing world. He had some insightful things to say, though it's an added kick, if you do know his climbing face. (I'm picking on him becasue he's one of the more high profile in that other, nonclimbing world)

For the rest of us (climbers) when you wonder about some historic climb that you are interested in, and/or doesn't get done much and then run into someone as erudite as Peter Haan, Roger, etc talking about what it felt like the first time it is a rare treasure, indeed.

Sheeit! I met "the best OW climber in California," here, and we talked about evolution and the fossil record, among other things.

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Jun 24, 2006 - 11:37pm PT
Besides this being a place to hang with friends or ex-friends (can friends ever be ex?), this is a great place for discourse. As Lois is discovering, climbers are sort of unique in the combination of their intelligence, boldness, and (I don't know the right word) their out-there-ness. Along with the climbing this has always been one of the draws into the climbing world for me. The cast of characters that you would find on any Saturday night at Joshua Tree, and the interaction between them was always amazing. There are evenings with Schockly, Bachar, Keesee, Dean and Largo that were otherworldly. Hell, there were days with those boys that were otherworldly.

At any rate, if you look in the right places, climbing still seems to draw those sorts in. Maybe we had no where else to go. I know many of us probably though there would never be a place we fit in as well as we fit in to the climbing community, and some of that still applies to some of the new climbers that I meet. I find it easy to look at a group of young climbers and pick out the ones that will be sucked up into the sport. We are indeed different. We have indeed been sucked up. And even if you escape for a while, you are never gonna get out clean. This makes us a community and that is what ST is, a community.

Thanks all.

right here, right now
Jun 25, 2006 - 11:24am PT
Nice words all,
For me the whole climbing community is such a rich combination of things.

There is a lot of power to it, both coming from the risk involved and from certain sacrifices required to attain mastery.

We are a group escaping a life otherwise frittered away and ensnared in the mundane.

The social element has been so colorfull; most climbers, particularly our So Cal and Yosemite vatiety seem to be hyper social. All those cold mornings in J Tree, coffee and reefer flowing, racks of cowbell hexes clanging about, a dispersion of jolly hecklers, "qualified leaders", top rope gangs, bouldering caravans...

"a dimp for a chimp..."

Social climber
The Past
Jun 26, 2006 - 12:28pm PT

Yeah, the Little Imp could pull down on the thin holds couldn't he? But I always felt that his smack talking abilities far outweighed his crimping abilities. Whadda ya think?

BTW: I think (wait, strike that, I know...) that I hear a certain bouldering area in Riverside CA. calling your name.

San Deigo, Contenders, ... ??? Care to explain that? I must be missing something.

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Jun 26, 2006 - 12:57pm PT
Did the rest of you just hear some clucking? Hmmm, maybe it was all in my head.

Social climber
Jun 26, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
I'm new here. Just had an old pal direct me to a post on here that mentioned myself and some buddies. In general, there was a group of us that ranged in age from 17-25 that mostly lived in Upland, had all gone to UHS. I got a kick out of John's story about Harrisons pad. We grew pot in the empty pool up there in the hills behind his place.

The way we looked at it back then was, you were not a true Stonemaster unless you'd spent an entire summer season in Camp IV. While we were not above pilfering to climb as much as possible, none of our group (the Uplanders) could pull off a whole summer in the Valley. That seperated the men from the boys as far as we were concerned.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jun 26, 2006 - 03:49pm PT
Being an Uplander (Highlander) myself I´m curious who you are??


Social climber
Tendonitis City
Jun 26, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
John, the Uplanders were who we were protecting when we "neee'ed" the ranger in HV campground at Josh. The ranger followed the only one who could drive (can't remember any names - blond and 17) back from town and tried to give him a speeding ticket. In the big old tent in the site were the uplanders, all underage, all drinking out of the keg they somehow managed to acquire. Ranger finally left, but that was the end of climber/ranger relations in JT.

Trad climber
Degnan's Deli
Jun 26, 2006 - 04:59pm PT
No disrespect to Vern! I spent years wondering if they were the same person.

He used to brag that he had the world record number of ascents of After 7, and he was likely right. Looks like he learned something from them all, too. Me and at least a couple other guys thought him a total poser. But you were not going to say that to a guy who could loan you 65 crabs, a couple dozen pins and a rack of nuts for a wall, and not even miss them! This all goes a long way to show two things.

How bad a judge of talent and determination I am.

How far Vern had to come to get where he went.

Not everyone came to climbing with the abs of a calif. surfer boy. Some were scrawney like me with a desert leaness, a few others were more like Vern.

Looks like everbody got good but me. (sigh.)

Messages 121 - 140 of total 206 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews