Vegas baby! Vegas!

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 279 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:08am PT
Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.

John M

climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:11am PT
That desert camo stuff really works. Yall seem to be fading into the picture. haha..
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.

I didn't read through your whole thread, but high on our list of eateries is a Thai place at the north end of the strip in a little plaza (sorry don't know the name, but it's highly regarded), the buffet at the Rio casino is mind blowing. Go in early just before they switch from lunch price to dinner price. Then you're already in when the steaks and alaskan king crab legs come out! If you haven't tried it already, the restaurant at the Bonnie Springs ranch just west of the loop road is pretty cool. huge fireplace to enjoy your PBR's around while bullshitting about your day's adventures

k
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:32am PT
Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.

Oops!! What do we know??? Where is our local guide???


Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.

That's Bruce!! He's quick that guy... ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:48am PT
Cosmic does resoles I think??

Wml check your email and start driving... ;)
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 11:36am PT
^^^ 5 minutes? Sounds like you'd be my neighbor.

Yesterday was nice, but windy. We simulclimbed Johnny Vegas with the 5.9 variation, to sundog on the upper slab. Got a bit unpleasant with the wind and cold on the second to last pitch, so we bailed. That was interesting, as rapping with a single 80m rope means having to do some downclimbing here and there.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Saw your post WML.
I do some resoling.
My own and for a few friends.

The way things are going I am having to spend a lot of time
in calif working as My wife is unable to find any work.
So I am the sole supporter right now for my wife.
and I have to stay where the work is, what little there is.
I can't even afford to go to vegas as the gas money it takes can
pay a bill or 2. I did have a job in Vegas last weekend so I was able to make it back for a couple of days,to see the wife, and do the job.
I made enough to pay a couple of bills and have gas money to get back to Calif.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
"bjj,

you live W of 215 on Charleston? That's the zone I applied for a house in. Fingers crossed I get it."

I live 30 seconds from 215 at the next exit past Charleston (far hills). Absolutely love it over here. Before that, I lived 35 - 40 minutes from RR in the south part of town.

I specifically moved over here to be close to RR, for easy climbing access, and so I can go out the door on my bike. Riding in my old hood was terrifying. In the 8 months I lived there, I rode exactly twice, and was in fear for my life.

Here, it's a joy. Every road has a big shoulder / bike lane, and drivers are much more aware - since there are riders everywhere.

The full ride from my door, around the loop road and back is a total of 34 miles. Can't beat that with a stick!

Good luck with your search. There's actually a small house about 100 yards from mine with a for rent sign on the lawn. Want some pics and the number?
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Ok, let me know if you need that info. Maybe we can get together for some climbing / riding after you arrive. I just started back climbing in October after having to quit 10 years ago. Still shaking out the cobwebs and working on getting fit as fast as I can, because there's a LOT of things I want to tick before the season is over. Stuck in the 5.10 zone for now.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
WF heck, you jacking us Dwain?
"Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland."

That IS the trail to Brass Wall. Isn't there only one trail? Head towards Dark Shadows and turn right head up the hill. Are there 2 trails or a better one? Please share yer secrets and I'll buy ya a beer when I get there next:-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Couldn't find a partner for today, so rest day it is I guess..

Bruce sent me a few more pics from yesterday.

Birdland Buttress

Bruce MacDonald photo


Me following p1

Bruce MacDonald photo



Extreme close up

Bruce MacDonald photo


This party was finishing up as we approached. We met up with them in the perfect spot on the first ledge.

Bruce MacDonald photo


Yours truly racking up for p2

Bruce MacDonald photo

We didn't see any right fork, or better trail to Brass Wall, but what do we know.., noobs.. ;)
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 15, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
Yeah Buddy. Thanks for the pics Mike and Bruce.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Here's a couple from last week. Nightcrawler on the brownstone wall. Me at the belay and then following. Handren guide calls it 10c, but it felt quite stout for that grade. Pitch 3 and 4 both get that rating, but both felt harder for different reasons.

Pitch 3 starts with wide stemming with left hand in a wide crack and right hand in a finger crack. I have a lot of trouble with stems because of hip arthritis, so I had to do that part straight in on the finger crack. I know it looks like I am stemming, but that is actually a gigantic drop knee twist for a rest. I cannot spread that wide in the usual both-toes-out position.

Having to do the start of pitch 3 as a straight in / layback finger crack puts it into 5.11 territory, IMO. Luckily I was on the follow because there is no chance I could have stopped to place gear.

Later on in the pitch there is a very delicate and technical reachy move off a ledge that felt very hard.

Pitch 4 is more straight forward, but also more strenuous.

Upon reading about the route on mountain project, it seems the consensus is that 5.10d is more accurate. There's even a report that allegedly, Uriosite says it has always been 10+ this made me feel a little better about the 25 + foot whip I took off the top of pitch 4.

Anyway, this is one of the best routes I've ever done. Rock quality is superb, and the position and view are amazeballs. The only thing that lessened the experience was the burly hike. I am not a giod hiker.


Following Nightcrawler pitch 3 &#40;5.10c&#41;
Following Nightcrawler pitch 3 (5.10c)
Credit: bjj

At the belay of pitch 3
At the belay of pitch 3
Credit: bjj
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Wow!! That looks awesome!!!!! I need a partner on Monday if anyone is interested?? Would really love to get on some mid 10 multis??

Hoser

climber
vancouver
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Rest day already....you need to set an age limit on your partners :) Next time try trolling the campground for partners
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Come on down hoser! You are the next contestant!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Hey Hoser, are you ever negative?? Hmmm...
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
"Sweet nightcrawler pics! That one has been on the list for a while. Pro was ample when you needed it? 10+ is pushing it for me bigtime but if pro is good.... "

Pro is good. In fact, pitch 3 has 7 bolts on it and pitch 4 has 2. These days you could protect it pretty well with small cams only if you wanted. We opted not to do that...

The route is a must do, and is on my list of things I need to go back to for "revenge" down the road when my fitness is better, because the first time around didn't go super great.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Anyone who thinks I wouldn't like to get up sooner, and climb harder is severely mistaken. For me, life isn't always about personal gratification. It's about being with friends and enjoying myself! I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a d#@&%e who climbs 5.12 any day.

Maybe that means I'll never be a 5.13 climber, but if being an a$$hole is what it takes, I'm not interested.
WTF

climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
Big mike your spot on bud

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