| Messages 1 - 299 of total 299 in this topic |
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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My bags are packed, flights in the morning! 10 days in Red Rocks with Bmacd!
SUPER STOKED!!!!
The ticklist already includes:
Cat In The Hat
Tunnel Vision
Ginger Cracks
Crimson Crystalis
Birdland
Any other suggestions? Great places to eat? Things that must be seen? Sandbaggery?? Let me have it!! :)
(I know you would anyways...) ;)
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aliebling
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
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If cat in the hat is crazy (likely), go back around the corner and start it with cookie monster instead (which is a great climb at the grade).
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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I would say skip Birdland, not much going for it except its easy and a classic 20 foot finger splitter on the last pitch.
Do Olive Oil instead. Awesome climb, all trad, including belays, and its a walk off. Having a 70 meter rope sure helps on Olive Oil but not neccessary.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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Group Therapy, next to Tunnel Vision, is amazing.
for shorter days... Black Magic, the Great Red Book, Diet Delight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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Cool! Thanks Allie, Studly and Gal! We will have 70's which will be nice.
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dave
climber
Earth
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Dark Shadows....to the top! Don't rap after the first 3 like most people do, the descent is awesome too, take 2 ropes
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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A couple of years ago we wandered up to Birdland to find one party on it and 5 -- count them, FIVE -- parties waiting. So we moved about thirty feet left and jumped on [name forgotten] which is the same grade and maybe even better quality and had it to ourselves.
Did the same thing a couple of days later at Crimson Chrysalis. Hiked in, found a lineup, so moved over to Ginger Cracks and had that to ourselves. I haven't climbed CC, but Mari has and said Ginger Cracks was better.
Moral of the story? Forget the tick list. Any of the multi-star super-popular routes will likely have a lineup. But that's okay, because it means fewer people on everything else. And everything else is just as good -- often better.
Have fun, and get the place warmed up for us -- we'll be about three weeks behind you.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 10, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
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Here's something to get you stoked
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WTF
climber
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Feb 10, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Levitation 29
The Fox in Calico
Dream f the Wild Turkeys
Fidler on the Roof
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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What grades are you looking to climb?
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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For multipitch climbs in the sub-5.10 range (judging from your list that looks like what you're going for) a couple of my favorites are the Black Dagger (5.8) and Community Pillar (5.8), which are also less crowded than most of the routes on your list. Crimson Chrysalis is great climbing but also mega popular and all the bolted anchors are at bad stances, so hanging around waiting on the party-o-3 in front of you to sort out their clusterf*#k is especially unpleasant.
Bring your headlamps and call in for a late exit.
For food I sort of dig the L&L Hawaiian BBQ, behind the Burger King just on the other side of Charleston from the RR Casino. The best pizza is at the food court in Costco. You're supposed to show your membership card at the door but you can try just walking on in if you don't have one. If you have a bad weather day and want to get loaded before noon, the Champagne Brunch (Sat and Sun) at the Golden Nugget is $20 for stellar food and all you can drink booze. For a dinner buffet, the Freemont has a "steak night" on Wed and Sat, with all you can eat cooked-to-order NY cut steaks for $14.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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I recommend tunnel vision(just to say you did it),
And dark shadows, lotta balls, johnny vegas, dream of wild turkeys
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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i second Byran on Black Dagger it's in a great location, longish walk keeps the crowds away, the climbing is great and the descent is awesome, down the gunsight. Ragged Edges, only 2 pitches but hella fun! And yep Dark Shadows to the top.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Ragged edges is cool-and no approach (basically).
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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If temps warm up enough, go climb Triassic Sands. Short bit of 5.10 and then just classic climbing.
Climb The Fox. It might be a bit harder than mid 5.10, but protects as well as one could wish...and ya can even TR it with the right handful of cams
Get on the Risk Brothers Roof, 5.11a in Calico Basin. Short "party trick" 5.11 lead, my first and only to date.
Ragged Edges is a great recommendation, if you are looking or more classic stuff in that range climb the Great Red book....incredible position and quality climbing and a feature you can see from just about anywhere in the loop or on the highway.
wooohooooo red rock!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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Woooooooooo hooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!
I miss Jer too. ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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Is that preparation H? See you both down there, it's warmed up again.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
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2nd skipping Birdland. Not sure where all the stars come from. Olive Oil = 10x better. Jubliant Song is a good option for something a tad more adventurous.
Oh man I'm so jealous. LOVE that place.
Edit: man I didn't think snow got that brown in Whistler! WTF??
Edit 2: Ghost that kind of looks like Valentine's Day in Moderate Mecca. A short but excellent corner. Was an early gear lead for me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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Berg, it hasn't been snowing very much since the new year! Makes it alot easier to go away for sure.
Harry yup! Hahahaha no it's epoxy. ;)
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dugillian
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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Skip Birdland.
Geronimo is a lot of fun with real sweet holds.
Jubilant Song is totally sweet.
Community Pillar is a go.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Feb 11, 2013 - 03:32am PT
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Frogland is awesome....so is Epinephrine ( prob my favorite).... Red rock is SWEEEEET!!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Feb 11, 2013 - 05:10am PT
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im thinking of my coherts
out upon the road,
enroute upon a binge of sends,
as i strap in for a monday
morning grind of
feeding the circling sharks.
enjoy your trip, gents.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 05:34am PT
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Thanks everyone!
Thanks weege. It's awesome to see that we can have a difference of opinion and still be nice to each other! :)
All the routes look awesome! Keep em coming!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 05:52am PT
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Hey Weege. Feed the sharks, don't become food! ;)
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:12am PT
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+1 Cookie Monster has awesome steep climbing.
A fun jug haul and keen way to pass early traffic on Cat in the Hat - plus you still get the summit pitch which is prolly the best pitch on Cat anyways.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:44am PT
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If you do the long hike to Brownstone, you can get a full day of sun and climbing you won't forget on Armatron (walk off). One of our favorites. Also we love Black Magic and Dark Shadows. If going to Dark Shadows then hit the first two pitches of Y2K on the way in or way out. It has a 10a crux but that has a bolt right on the lip of the small roof you climb and the rest of that climb is classic 5.8. Rawlpundi is the route left of Birdland and worth doing. Also in the area is the great single pitch climb "Topless Twins"
For a big adventure, Black Orpheus is a full day.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:20am PT
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If you get tired of RR or need a change, I'll be down in Joshua Tree for the winter.
My top choice in easy 5.10 would be A Dream of Wild Turkey. Bring warm cloths for Crimson Chrysalis, I've been snowed off in April.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:34am PT
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Birdland is cool, just not the OMG MUST DO. It gets crowded and you rap the route. Fun and varied route for 5.7, but still some cramped stances while rapping the route and avoiding the invariable clusters of humanity.
Topless Twins is pretty damn good, typical weird Red Rock face crack climbing that I'm still adjusting to. Doing The Good Drive and Straight Shooter are single pitch classics in Pine Creek as well.
Atman is a great 5.10- crack (short but sweet) next to Kraft Mountain.
Valentines Day (pictured upthread) is a fun 5.8+ at Moderate Mecca in Calico Basin. Classic Corner of Calico Basin is, well, classic, and moderate at 5.8
Karate Crack is a fun 5.9+ in Willow Springs
Enjoy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 08:21am PT
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Wow! I'm always super impressed with the responses I get. Thanks guys!! The routes suggested so far look amazing!! Thanks for the pics Ghost and thedogfather!!!
I made it to the airport, with plenty of time to spare!
Hopefully Bruce is at the terminal in Richmond by now.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:27am PT
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Rock Warrior is worth it.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:28am PT
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The Fox doesn't suck! DO IT!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:43am PT
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A chinese spot we found by accident, China Joes, a local chain with several outlets. Cheap and good.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:58am PT
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Roberto's Taco Shop is open 24 hours, cheap, and delicious. Anything with carne asada there is awesome. One off of 215 and Cheyenne and one off of 215 and Tropicana are your two closest to the park.
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dave
climber
Earth
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:10am PT
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+1 for the fox, but take a couple of big pieces or find yourself walking 1 along near the top.
Red Zinger, 10+ creek style 2 shortish pitches. I second y2k on way to dark shadows to the top, you wont find a topo on the last say 6 pitches +/- to the top but just keep going up its good and empty and the descent is tricky but a good adventure too and just plain cool wondering around up on those terraces.
Dream of wild turkeys goes to the top too, but no one ever does it, and you probably wont find a topo for that bit either.
Triassic sands. Wholesome full back, and that killer thing on the right of the wholesome fullback route, 'Our father' I think its called, really good 10+ creek-ish final pitch, that can be tr'd when rapping Wholesome Fullback if you don't want to do the whole route (I recommend the whole route)
Also if its warm Frigidaire buttress, ice box canyon.
Ah man I'm wishing I was going there too! Have fun, let us know if our list made the cut when you get home.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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Brownstone is looking like a major winner with that Armatron thing. The other routes there are 3 to 5 star as well. Have a smoking good trip Mike and Bruce!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:14am PT
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Oh Sh#t, live TR in progress. Never been to RR, so can't give any beta, but cosmic might be in town and pretty sure he'd play the tour guide. PM me if you need his phone number. Have fun man!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:28am PT
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I did Brownstone in February and could've used a headlamp for the hike out,..
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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If you go all the way to brownstone, get an overnight pass and do Requiem for a Tadpole also... that climb was super sweet too with a bolted 5.9 pitch if you want to go around the chimney...
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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Have a blast! Love your tick list. Sounds like every hot bar on the strip!
Susan
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weezy
climber
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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my advice is to get a late-exit pass even if you're just cragging. might as well use up all the winter sun and not worry about getting locked in. i threw my back out at the brass wall one day and it took forever for me to walk out. we barely missed lock-down and talked the ranger into letting us go since i was all gimped up. it's nice to just be able to climb as long as you want and not worry about having to get back before six. i haven't been there in almost ten years, though so maybe things have changed.
vvv edit: yes, definitely do triassic sands. excellent exposure, not as hard as it looks from below. do wholesome fullback afterwards if you got some juice left
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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If you go to Black Velvet Canyon, you absolutely must do Triassic Sands. Does a hand crack on an arete sound fun, or what !?!?
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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If you go to Black Velvet Canyon, you absolutely must do Triassic Sands. Does a hand crack on an arete sound fun, or what !?!?
^^^ THIS!!!!!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Yer gonna......
Have a blast!
If you have some spare time, shoot me a message. We always like to meet Taco folks when they are in town!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Da Lat for pho and other Vietnamese and Mint Bistro for Indian. My favorite ethnic places down there.
Dogfather, thanks for the photos of Brownstone. i haven't made it out there yet and there's a few things there on my hit list. Plus it's sunny.
Big Mike a lot of the stuff people are recommending is in the shade all day. For right now? Could be OK or could be frigid.
My recommendation might be to get up really early, do the classics on the sunny side in your grade range but then do another 1-2 routes in the area and triple your pitch count for the day.
E.G. I personally love Birdland, but then I'd also go over and do Dark Shadows or go to the right and do topless twins, mushroom people and bush pilots.
Olive Oil is great, but then why not do Geronimo the same day? If there's no one there you would run up it. It's the time on the loop road and the hike in that eats it up. once you get somewhere, plan to maximize the climb to hike ratio.
Same with something like Frogland. There's stuff both to the right and the left that you can do to add mileage to your day.
Yeah, the Fox is great but it's one pitch. There are a ton of other 1 pitch routes less than 10 minutes away you can do in the same day if you spend a day in Calico basin.
I'm a bit jealous; wish I could get down there.
Phyl
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Before you throw yourself into the jaws of doom on those Red Rocks moderates, hit the Bonjour Bakery for coffee and pastries. I still have trouble believing that this place exists in Las Vegas, but it does, and not taking advantage of it is a mortal sin. Seriously. It may not be the best patisserie in the world, but it's better than almost anything in the US.
In a shopping plaza on the NE corner of Rainbow and Flamingo.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Taking notes, thanks people. The views of all the canyons from the plane today showed snow on all the ledges to half height on the northern aspects. Looking just as cold here in LV, as Squamish was last weekend
Forecast is looking great though.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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Epinephrine to the top is probably my favorite climb I have done. May be a little chilly this time of year I suppose, but 2,000 feet of 5.7 to 5.9, what is not to like.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Save up and splurge on the buffet at the Belogio if you get a chance. It was worth it last time I was there. It was like $30 but that was cheaper tham a lot of restaurants on the strip and they have almost anything you could want.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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If you're looking for sunny, warm, and moderate climbing with an easy (real easy) approach check out Moderate Mecca. The picture I posted at the top of this thread was taken there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Belagio eh? Heard its pretty fancy! Sounds interesting.
Ya valentine's day looks rad!! Good call Ghost!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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Second on ragged edges. I hear there are some good 5.10 right next door.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Of course no one on this thread has touched on the most important thing of all... Where do you get a good beer after a day of climbing in Red Rocks?
In the past, the answer was simple: you don't. If you wanted a good beer, you had to wait until you got home. But things have changed, and not only is good beer available, it is available almost within spitting distance of the park gate. The Red Rock Casino is a relatively new place way out at the west end of Charleston. About five minutes from the park entrance. And the pub actually has real beer. Or it did a couple of years ago. Maybe not as good as you can get in San Diego, SF, Portland, or Seattle, but not bad.
I'll be checking it out again myself in a few weeks because I am forced by my horrible job to go to Las Vegas and stay at the Red Rock Casino on my company's dime. Yeah, I know, it sucks, but I'll man up and do it.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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Might be tough to get to black velvet with the rental.
Are you kidding??? Thats half the fun. You just need the proper off roadster:
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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Solar Slab is always a fun mellow romp. Pair it with Johnny Vegas and you'll have a fun day of easy climbing. Bring your headlamps.
Others recommending Eagle Dance...that has been on my list for a while, looks like a blast.
Great Red Book gets PM sun so if you go follow the sun in Calico for a morning (The Fox faces NE but if it is warm enough, go for it), otherwise Classic Corner of Calico faces East and is a good morning climb. Stellar movement. Head from there to Valentines Day and then hit the Great Red Book and you will have had one of the better days of 5.8 that Red Rock has to offer. Getting cornered! All of the routes are in awesome corners.
The Brass Wall in Pine Creek is another fun spot. Topless Twins is a classic, Mushroom People is very good, the other little 10a/9+ thing was alright. There is a fun .11b TR (or VERY bold lead) to the right of that climb called "Fungus Folks" which is stellar. Earlier in the day you can climb Doin' the Good Drive and/or Straight Shooter for some more 5-star 5.9 terrain.
Enjoy!!!! I'm getting fired up to move back down at the end of the month, now the crux of it all - finding a place to rent!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Isn't Johnny Vegas a full rope length 5.9 no pro situation? We are well equipped in the headlamp department but the rental car is a Chevy Aero with 2.5 inches ground clearance. I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet.
Solar slab would be a good adventure.
Apparently it rained here yesterday...
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socialclimber
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:54am PT
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I'll be there Friday to Sunday!
Charles
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:08am PT
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Enjoy Vegas today and allow things to dry out. Johnny Vegas is 5.7, not 5.9
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dave
climber
Earth
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:43am PT
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Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful. with 2 ropes you can rap and you'll be rapping the bottom section of solar slab so you can see what you didn't miss out on, plus Beulahs will be in the sun the whole time while on solar slab you'll be stuffed way back in a chimney system till you reach the glorious ledge half way up. Beulahs is to the left and has a great 2nd. pitch, take a #4 camalot.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:47am PT
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Beulah's is super fun! We did it in the afternoon last February, was kinda cold. Do it early so that you don't get caught in the shade...wasn't too bad but belays were chilly.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 12, 2013 - 09:14am PT
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" I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet."
Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.
:(
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 09:35am PT
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bmacd the hendron book says for the 3rd pitch of jonny vegas "straightforward climbing (5.5) leads up the arete with no pro until you are level with the roof on the left"
I got at least 3 decent pieces in over that length: a very nice pair of nuts set in opposition in a horizontal about 12 feet off the belay, a lowe ball somewhere, and a small cam somewhere. And it really was completely straightforward. It's a fun and lovely route, but you know what? The solar slab gully at 5.3 was actually a lot of fun and it gets you up high too.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:40am PT
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I use the gully quite a bit to introduce people to multi pitch. It can be a bit of a slog, and rope drag is an issue especially on the first pitch. If you guys are interested in giving it a go, we can run up it Saturday or Sunday.
Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:52am PT
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Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!
You may not be so sure about that after tonight.
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Derek
climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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It's mentioned once up thread, but I'll put in another plug for Frigidair Buttress. It's a superb oldschool-style meat and potatos crack climbing romp. Don't be put off by the "wide" pitch. There are good jams in the back, and ample face holds after the first few feet. Also don't sweat the descent. Despite some reports to the contrary, it's not especially ticky by RR standards, though it might be hard to sort out in the dark, I suppose. Simply a great route.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:13am PT
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Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...
Have a good climb you guys. I'll be creepin on your live TR when I can.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.
Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple.
You may not be so sure about that after tonight.
Waddya trying to say there tough guy?? ;)
We are on our way to the crags now. Decided on a mellow morning to let things warm up and dry out a bit.
Edit Charles we would love to meet up this weekend!!
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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"Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple."
That would be GREAT, Big Mike!
There is a LOT of good climbing here in Apple Valley.
My cell is: 760-780-8433
Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.
I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Feb 12, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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Johnny Vegas has a sweet 5.9 variation.
The crux is a layback around the corner to eventually find a bolt to clip.
Red Zinger is right next door
Also in the area is the fun Buelah's Book
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.
My plan for the whole rest of this week is bolt clipping in the sun. But, I live 10 minutes away, and I have the luxury of going out whenever I want.
Brownstone wall is a good choice, with a hell of a nice view, and a pretty good hike. We did Nightcrawler not long ago (I took a 35 foot whip off the 4th pitch) and the quality of the rock up there is impeccable.
FWIW, last week there was NO ONE on Crimson, Johnny Vegas (we did it in about 30 minutes as a simul), Solar Slab, etc. Everywhere seemed deserted for some reason.
^^^ Red Zinger is pretty amazing. Indian Creek style all the way. The sun only hits the route itself for about 30 minutes around 3pm right now, IIRC.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 12, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
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Have a blast! Haven't been to Red Rocks for a few years, but loved every minute of it. Met Charlie Fowler there, and he told me he thought it might be the best overall climbing area in the world (a comment he elaborated on, at length). It's a pretty sweet place.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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Glad you made it down Bmacd and Bmike, we are all down and settled in Henderson. All you regular
s have been really helpful with route information. I'm looking for some easy crags that are suitable for kids. Cliffs that get some sun and are less than a mile from the car, any ideas? Thanks in advance. Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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harry, go forth to moderate mecca and enjoy. Keep the young'ns away from the cliff, though
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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Panty wall 5.5/5.6/a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8.
15 minute approach by RR standards.
Another good alternative is White Slab at Calico Hills. TR 5.6/5.8. Very close to the parking lot for the days when you or the gang have just had enough. A nice area to hike with the kids, not much elevation loss or gain and some cool scenery, probably covered with top ropes on weekends.
Post pics of your future Rock stars.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
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Cool Lurky!!! Thanks for the sick pics!
Rolf- thanks for the invite!!
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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bjj and all other locals, it would be great to meet you folks. So many choices for climbs, but very cold in the shade right now....
My local LV number is 702 601 1751. Don't be shy!
Difficult to read all this great information posted to the thread as we have only our smart phones.
Thanks everyone for the input.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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Risk Brothers Roof, a fun party trick
Early morning approaches above the electric ocean are nice
Getting cornered!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
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Had a good time hanging out with Bruce and Mike tonight!
The better half and I had to go to a SAR team meeting, so we didn't get over there till about 9. Hence why I look like a pumpkin in the shots :-| Had time to BS for a while and give them some beta for climbing tomorrow - looks like they will go for Cat in the Hat with the Cookie Monster variation.
We are going to try and get out there with them on Saturday. Mike is one seriously TALL dude!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 13, 2013 - 12:08am PT
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Valentine's Day, a shortie but a goodie.
Go do Great Red Book while you are in town!!!!
It is a blast and is classic. Oh yeah, and descend to the climbers' left. We managed to go for quite the wander December '11 to the right. Thought we were supposed to descend right...whoops!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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Thanks for the name reminder Wml! Bruce wanted to do that one but couldn't remember the exact name. We are headed over there now!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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What's in the Altoids tin? Ha!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
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Mike, let me know what you think of it! Rad position and visible from all around. Some fun movement, too.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 13, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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What's in the Altoids tin? Ha!
Er....actually, Altoids. Sorry to wreck your perception and all. :p
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 13, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Simply a joke, take no offense.
Altoids tins are notorious for multiple uses.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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Altoids tins are notorious for multiple uses.
They are quite handy! I might have to pick one up myself. ;)
wml- coming up!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
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Big Mike, dontchya feel just a little guilty climbing in those horrid conditions?
Plus I know damn well there's no buffets even remotely close in Squamland.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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Mike and Bruce, I love your style. Keeping it real. Peace out!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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Big Mike, dontchya feel just a little guilty climbing in those horrid conditions?
Plus I know damn well there's no buffets even remotely close in Squamland.
Ya.. It's pretty bad ;) haven't seen a buffet yet, or even been near the strip! ;) Soon enough I'm sure.
Mike and Bruce, I love your style. Keeping it real. Peace out!
Wayno!! Relic is planning an Easter trip to Leavenworth so we will be kidnapping you for that one!! Make sure you have the time off!!
We got up at 6:30 this morning but we were both still bagged. Neither of us managed to get enough sleep and Bruce had the sinus migraine from hell, so I told him I didn't mind if we got some more sleep. He seemed pretty stoked at that idea so we snoozed a bit. It is supposed to be a vacation after all.
We woke up late and took care of some errands before we headed out to the crag. We didn't get to the second pullout till about 2:15 and the gates are closed at five these days so we were cutting it close.
Second pullout
We decided to head up to The Great Red Book 5.8 thanks to wml's excellent reminder.
Amazing geology here..
Bruce heading up the gully.
These gullies are amazing. Such cool formations!
A cool little cacti? I spotted.
I went a bit high up the gully before trying to cross over, and we ended up having to backtrack a little. Being that we were short on time Bruce wasn't super stoked.. :) oops.
The Great Red Book. 2p 5.8
We got to the base and I was still feeling pretty rested so I racked up for the first pitch. It was really fun and took great gear, even if it was a bit spacey. 5.7 can be pretty serious around here, and I certainly wouldn't want to fall on that pitch! It wouldn't be very pretty as Vegasclimber illustrated quite well last night with his tuna an chips story. (See TR)
Bruce on p1 (5.7)
Pulling the last couple moves on p1
Bruce followed p1 seamlessly and we swapped over at the belay. I thought he did quite well with the second pitch, especially with his sinus deal, but he wasn't super happy with it. He got up it clean tho!
Bruce leading p2
P2 was rad! Some spicy face moves to start followed by a weird switch to layback corner and then a romp up the nice corner to the belay. Bmacd opted to follow the corner all the way up and set up a gear belay by the small tree at the top of the slot.
While Bruce took care of the rope, I went left to scope out the descent, and had take this snap of my shadow.
Big Mike on the summit
Bruce coiling the rope
It was 4:45 by the time we started down and we really didn't want a ticket!!
Running down the descent gully to make it back to the lot on time!
We made it. Bruce wanted to go, but I just had to get this one last shot.
Red Rocks sunset.
I think it was worth it.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Rad! Way to get after it! What's next on the agenda for ya'll?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
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Unsure. We will see how we feel in the morning. Hopefully good and we can go attack something bigger!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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Cool and funny to see dudes from the great white north tripping out on a cactus!
Enjoy your trip to the desert guys.
Be safe and have fun!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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Sweet, get healthy and enjoy. Living vicariously and biding the days before the move....damnit. Chomping at the bit because each day that passes is one day closer to the season becoming FAR more limited...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Big Mike! Don't have time to read thru all this right now but u have to go to the omelette house for breakfast, fukin place is made for u. I think it's on charleston?? Don't get talked into some BS all u can eat scetti like last time. Go for the goods! Massive omelettes designed for the most morbidly obese mericans, the glory!! Enjoy!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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There's also Waffle Depot on Charleston.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 13, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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Also Egg Works and Hash House a Go-Go are excellent for breakfasts.
Great shots today guys! Stoked to get out there with you on Saturday'
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
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Easter in Lworth sounds like a good thing. Let's make it happen!
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 13, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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I am so BUMMED I can't be there.
I'm stuck here in Apple Valley.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 13, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Breaking news :
http://sasquatchgenomeproject.org/
Oops wrong thread...
Apparently another species of humans coexist with us and three complete genome sequences have been done on them.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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another species of humans coexist with us
I would venture to say that another species of human is not all that coexist with us. Only time will tell.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Me too Dwain. I even tried to get Bruce to plan this trip around you being here but it just wasn't to be. Next time for sure!!!
Travis told me he gave you a new rope. I'm super happy he did and at the same time a little disappointed because I was hoping to surprise you with one...
Omelette house eh? Harry very kindly offered to put me up on my last night here since Bruce is leaving a day before me, and he's in charleston so maybe then??
There is an in-n-out just down the block so I am definitely getting A animal burger on the way home tomorrow!!
Jefe us pasty white dudes don't get to see cacti to often!! ;)
Thanks Travis!! Bruce only wanted me to upload 4 pics to save bandwidth on his 3G but I just could t resist posting more... ;) oops...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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I am taking a mandatory rest day tomorrow, having climbed seven out of the last ten days and the last three back to back including today.
So this is a late call out for a partner for Big Mike tomorrow. Mike is climbing fast and strong, he's solid.
Thanks in advance.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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When is Easter?
Sorry, I'm not Catholic enough to know, but it's generally around mid-Spring, is that right? If you guys are coming down here then, I'd like to join the fun.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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Ghost it's in April sometime?? We'd love to have you join us!!
Edit apparently I don't know either.. March 31 this year.
Edit what Bmacd said. Would love to get out and slay some pitches tomorrow!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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Edit what Bmacd said. Would love to get out and slay some pitches tomorrow!!
If you're looking for a semi-rest day, find someone to tie on with and head up Prince of Darkness. The technical grade is 10c, but it's all bolt-protected and low-stress. Dream of Wild Turkeys (right next door) is probably better, but there's something to be said for low-stress.
Okay, caveats: the first pitch is not bolt-protected, but it's also really easy. i.e. low-stress. And the last pitch is actually a real crack, and you might have to place some pro, but the descent is right back down the way you came up, so you can preserve your mellow by just not doing the last pitch.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Jump on a plane Dave, lets do this!! ;)
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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Hey Big Mike, enjoying your trip vicariously...love Red Rocks....
Have you been to Zion or Indian Creek yet?
Have fun, keep up the neat pics and updates....hopefully a nifty Trip Report will show up!
Susan
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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There's a trail up Pine Creek now?
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 14, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Several of them.... :-| all the climbers fault, of course (sarcasm)
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 14, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.
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John M
climber
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Feb 14, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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That desert camo stuff really works. Yall seem to be fading into the picture. haha..
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Feb 14, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.
I didn't read through your whole thread, but high on our list of eateries is a Thai place at the north end of the strip in a little plaza (sorry don't know the name, but it's highly regarded), the buffet at the Rio casino is mind blowing. Go in early just before they switch from lunch price to dinner price. Then you're already in when the steaks and alaskan king crab legs come out! If you haven't tried it already, the restaurant at the Bonnie Springs ranch just west of the loop road is pretty cool. huge fireplace to enjoy your PBR's around while bullshitting about your day's adventures
k
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.
Oops!! What do we know??? Where is our local guide???
Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.
That's Bruce!! He's quick that guy... ;)
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 14, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Hey Cosmic, you know any resolers in Vegas other than Flyin Bryan? Saw on his site that he's out of commission for a move...and I need to get a few pairs resoled once I get to LV. Hoping to get it done locally so no need to wait for shipping and whatnot
W
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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Cosmic does resoles I think??
Wml check your email and start driving... ;)
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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Mike, replied to e-mail.
Part of why I was asking ;-)
Dwainnnnnnnnnnnnnnn, you out there mannnn?
Just put in my application to rent a not-so-ghetto hacienda down there...hopefully they let the girlfriend and I rent it!!!!!!!!
5 mins from Calico Basin won't suck!
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 15, 2013 - 08:36am PT
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^^^ 5 minutes? Sounds like you'd be my neighbor.
Yesterday was nice, but windy. We simulclimbed Johnny Vegas with the 5.9 variation, to sundog on the upper slab. Got a bit unpleasant with the wind and cold on the second to last pitch, so we bailed. That was interesting, as rapping with a single 80m rope means having to do some downclimbing here and there.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 15, 2013 - 09:08am PT
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Saw your post WML.
I do some resoling.
My own and for a few friends.
The way things are going I am having to spend a lot of time
in calif working as My wife is unable to find any work.
So I am the sole supporter right now for my wife.
and I have to stay where the work is, what little there is.
I can't even afford to go to vegas as the gas money it takes can
pay a bill or 2. I did have a job in Vegas last weekend so I was able to make it back for a couple of days,to see the wife, and do the job.
I made enough to pay a couple of bills and have gas money to get back to Calif.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 09:12am PT
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bjj,
you live W of 215 on Charleston? That's the zone I applied for a house in. Fingers crossed I get it.
Dwain,
Hope you find more work as quickly as possible, and same for your wife. As I'm all too well aware, and as I am sure you are as well, it's tough out there right now.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 15, 2013 - 09:30am PT
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"bjj,
you live W of 215 on Charleston? That's the zone I applied for a house in. Fingers crossed I get it."
I live 30 seconds from 215 at the next exit past Charleston (far hills). Absolutely love it over here. Before that, I lived 35 - 40 minutes from RR in the south part of town.
I specifically moved over here to be close to RR, for easy climbing access, and so I can go out the door on my bike. Riding in my old hood was terrifying. In the 8 months I lived there, I rode exactly twice, and was in fear for my life.
Here, it's a joy. Every road has a big shoulder / bike lane, and drivers are much more aware - since there are riders everywhere.
The full ride from my door, around the loop road and back is a total of 34 miles. Can't beat that with a stick!
Good luck with your search. There's actually a small house about 100 yards from mine with a for rent sign on the lawn. Want some pics and the number?
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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Sure man, in the event this one falls through (sure as sh#t hope not....$110 in application fees for my girlfriend and I) I will be scrambling HARD to find a replacement with us 2 weeks out to moving day.
I lived off of 215 and DI in high school and had no idea what I was missing out on. Being able to ride the road bike out the door and hit the scenic loop is definitely a huge plus to the location and one of the things I was thinking about. That and being able to go for a walk after work in the Calico zone if I'm not climbing or bouldering or anything...just incredible. Vegas might be the most obvious yet (relatively) unheralded climbing area in the country.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:07am PT
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Ok, let me know if you need that info. Maybe we can get together for some climbing / riding after you arrive. I just started back climbing in October after having to quit 10 years ago. Still shaking out the cobwebs and working on getting fit as fast as I can, because there's a LOT of things I want to tick before the season is over. Stuck in the 5.10 zone for now.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:13am PT
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WF heck, you jacking us Dwain? "Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland."
That IS the trail to Brass Wall. Isn't there only one trail? Head towards Dark Shadows and turn right head up the hill. Are there 2 trails or a better one? Please share yer secrets and I'll buy ya a beer when I get there next:-)
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:27am PT
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bjj, that would be great. I'd be super stoked for after-work climbing on weekdays, especially later this spring and into the summer when the days are longer. Dance card on weekends is filling up rapidly but don't have too many concrete plans yet.
couchmaster, I can't tell in the pic they posted but maybe they forked around and did something weird at the point where the Pine Creek trail splits that would loop them back or something strange like that? Maybe that is what Dwain is thinking? Can't tell though. Gotta love the Red Hill en route to Flight Path/Brass/Straight Shoter walls.
On a side note, anyone here done that beautiful looking 10c up Stick Gully? Been wanting to get on that thing and went looking for it one day and we couldn't find it, wound up climbing a great route Doin The Good Drive (5.9) at Flight Path.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 15, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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Yeah Buddy. Thanks for the pics Mike and Bruce.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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Here's a couple from last week. Nightcrawler on the brownstone wall. Me at the belay and then following. Handren guide calls it 10c, but it felt quite stout for that grade. Pitch 3 and 4 both get that rating, but both felt harder for different reasons.
Pitch 3 starts with wide stemming with left hand in a wide crack and right hand in a finger crack. I have a lot of trouble with stems because of hip arthritis, so I had to do that part straight in on the finger crack. I know it looks like I am stemming, but that is actually a gigantic drop knee twist for a rest. I cannot spread that wide in the usual both-toes-out position.
Having to do the start of pitch 3 as a straight in / layback finger crack puts it into 5.11 territory, IMO. Luckily I was on the follow because there is no chance I could have stopped to place gear.
Later on in the pitch there is a very delicate and technical reachy move off a ledge that felt very hard.
Pitch 4 is more straight forward, but also more strenuous.
Upon reading about the route on mountain project, it seems the consensus is that 5.10d is more accurate. There's even a report that allegedly, Uriosite says it has always been 10+ this made me feel a little better about the 25 + foot whip I took off the top of pitch 4.
Anyway, this is one of the best routes I've ever done. Rock quality is superb, and the position and view are amazeballs. The only thing that lessened the experience was the burly hike. I am not a giod hiker.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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Sweet nightcrawler pics! That one has been on the list for a while. Pro was ample when you needed it? 10+ is pushing it for me bigtime but if pro is good....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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Wow!! That looks awesome!!!!! I need a partner on Monday if anyone is interested?? Would really love to get on some mid 10 multis??
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Rest day already....you need to set an age limit on your partners :) Next time try trolling the campground for partners
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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Come on down hoser! You are the next contestant!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Hey Hoser, are you ever negative?? Hmmm...
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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"Sweet nightcrawler pics! That one has been on the list for a while. Pro was ample when you needed it? 10+ is pushing it for me bigtime but if pro is good.... "
Pro is good. In fact, pitch 3 has 7 bolts on it and pitch 4 has 2. These days you could protect it pretty well with small cams only if you wanted. We opted not to do that...
The route is a must do, and is on my list of things I need to go back to for "revenge" down the road when my fitness is better, because the first time around didn't go super great.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Anyone who thinks I wouldn't like to get up sooner, and climb harder is severely mistaken. For me, life isn't always about personal gratification. It's about being with friends and enjoying myself! I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a douche who climbs 5.12 any day.
Maybe that means I'll never be a 5.13 climber, but if being an a$$hole is what it takes, I'm not interested.
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WTF
climber
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Big mike your spot on bud
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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No matter the rating it's all fun.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Thanks guys :)
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moosedrool
Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
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Feb 15, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a douche who climbs 5.12 any day.
You don't want to climb with me? ;)))
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Moose, you don't seem that bad ;) I'd love to climb with you! I'm totally going to make minden happen at some point this year! Looking forward to it! ;)
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 15, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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"I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a douche who climbs 5.12 any day."
I like you more all the time, Mike.
Dammit I wish I was there to climb with you.
I just got a call from my wife in Vegas.
fuk, the water heater just burst and the trailer got a little flooded.
Looks like I'll have to stay in apple valley for a couple of months
so I can save up the money above our regular expenses to get a new water heater
It's a bummer this is my slow season for window washing.
I may have to go down to Circle K and sell myself.
:)
I'd be going crazy right now if it wasn't for my sense of humor.
Bjj;
I'll go climbing with you whenever I can get back to Vegas.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Bummer Dwain!! That really sucks dude. I hope your luck turns soon! Just a little bump in the road. Your karma will have you back on track in no time I'm sure.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Feb 15, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
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Hey all I said was wake the yeti hunter up a little earlier than noon, anyways I wish you well in increasing your $$ to climb time ratio.
Wasnt meant as a dis
I will be down after finals
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 15, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Oh well, Mike, I've learned over the years to roll with the punches.
I sure need to get out and climb to get my head back together,
climbing sure relieves stress for me.
sure wish you and bruce could make it down here for a day
as a stress reliever.
:)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Me too Dwain. Me too.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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Stay strong, Dwain. Just remember that this too shall pass...
Also, these property management companies are fvcking scam artists. This is a royal pain in the ass. Ergh
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Sh!tty Wml!!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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Not a done deal yet, just arm-twisting going on. They're cranking hard. Wanting me to lease for 2 yrs instead of 1...the one thing I want to make sure of is that I can eventually get a dog.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
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I would also recommend:
Lotta Balls - Short and fun
Frogland - Absolutely fantastic
Yellow Brick Road Var. - This is a harder (relative) variation off of Dream of the Wild Turkeys that doesn't get done as much as either neighbors and offers cool views of Price of Darkness if other climbers are on it.
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Peavine
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Feb 15, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Hold out Weston, you're the one who has to live with the deal.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Got it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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Ya!!! Sick Weston!!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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hell yeah man....5 mins to calico?!?!?!! I know I'm going to have to pinch myself in order to recognize it as reality. Now to pack this place up (made easier since Sam is organized and insists on storing things in bins [sidenote: i made fun of her for this. not so much anymore]) and make the damn move. Two weeks from tomorrow we arrive. Woohoo!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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That's awesome man ! The times I've been to Red Rocks were extra good if we got to Calico Basin. Such a different feel and vibe compared to suburban Vegas.
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WTF
climber
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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WML you whining c#&% why dont you just lie to them like you did to the people who gave you that job.
A lie is a lie guy and while not a big one it speaks volumes of your character.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Not living in Calico unfortunately, but right at the edge of the electric ocean. Will be nice, too, at 3,300 ft rather than down in the middle of the valley at 2k or so. Still losing 1,100 from where we live in Reno now but whatever.
Not excited for re-experiencing the heat during the day in summer in Vegas, although the summer nights there are pretty damn nice.
Oh yeah, and all of that world class rock climbing in the backyard won't suck either. :-D
EDIT:
WTF, not sure what your problem is with me or who the hell you are, but please leave me alone. I didn't lie about anything on any application, interview, or otherwise for this job or this house. Again, if you have a personal problem with me, please take it up with me in private and I would be glad to discuss it.
WML you whining c#&% why dont you just lie to them like you did to the people who gave you that job.
A lie is a lie guy and while not a big one it speaks volumes of your character.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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Picking up Mike tonight at 730 to go hit the town...party time!
Tomorrow, hot climbing action-action-action. Thinking Geronimo so my gal can go too. Woot!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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Sweet!! Super stoked! Hotdogharry might join us tonight too!
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WTF
climber
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
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WML
R you saying that you did not post here on ST that upon getting your job in vegas that you right here admitted to us you told them you lived in vegas but in reality you lived in Reno? You either deleted that post or I cant find it.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Oh, I told them I was splitting time (in the interview and following) and that I would need to make a determination relative to my lease in Reno within a particular timeframe...fair enough. I really have split time trying to find work down there, though. Resume did use my Dad's home address in Vegas...
It appears you have a better memory than I do. You are correct, fair enough.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 16, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Last night was a blast with Chrsitina, Mike, Harry and I hitting Frankies Tiki Hut and then off to the Three Angry Wives for late night food.
We just got home from doing Geronimo and then some awesome sushi. Pics coming soon, it was a stellar day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
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Sushi was awesome! Very high end. Well chosen Christina!!
Geronimo was super fun today!!
Here's one from Frankie's Tiki Room last night.
HarryHotDog on the left, Vegasclimber and his lovely fiancé Christina on the right.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
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As promised, some shots of our awesome day today. I'm sure Mike and Bruce will add more when they get the chance!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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I don't know what yer drinking but you should be swilling this...
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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Looks like you were "warmed by the sun, rocked by the wind and sheltered by the trees"
on that particular climb. Great meeting you all last night.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 17, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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You guys are killing it! Wish I coulda made it down but it's great to see you all havin a blast, relic what's up?
How u like that sandstone Mikey? Be sure to go clip some bolts one day, whole different ball game on that awesome rock! I think RR is one of my favorite areas.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 17, 2013 - 06:32am PT
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Jublient Song is a classic 5.7/ 5.8ish, but it is a long approach, and a tricky walk off in the dark. Get up early to check this one out.
Prod.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2013 - 10:33am PT
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Nice pics as always Mike. I agree with Ryan, go clip some steep bolts!
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gf
climber
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Feb 17, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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Mike, pay the peanut gallery no heed -many of those bolted routes fit the jim bridwell definition of sport climbing as being a akin to sport copulating - a lot of fun and not a lot of commitment. Those longer routes deliver great adventures, but if you want to mix the two, I recommend rock warrior -it delivers the gear dick, multiple pitches and some sport climbing to boot!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 17, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 17, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Steep climbing is an adventure within itself. I third the suggestion. Enjoy the movements whichever you choose.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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"Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?"
Haha, nice! I've been thinking of hooking up your route, Mystre Z to get to Brownstone wall for a few of those sweet looking routes up there next time down. I've been running @ 9 hours to car to car Epinephrine last couple times. Phil, is that a reasonable thing to be able to get done without needing a headlamp?
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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DAMMIT!!!!!
I'm stuck here in Apple Valley,
and I want to climb so bad.
With work so slow my wife not finding a job, and me needing to be here in Calif in case jobs come up, It looks like I won't be getting back to Vegas to see my wife or do any climbing for the next couple of months.
:(
I'm getting depressed pretty fast.
GREAT pics Big Mike, Travis and Bmacd
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 17, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
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Awesome pics! Looks like a blast!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 17, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Couchmaster if you are doing Epi car to car in 9 hours then a MysterZ Brownstone wall should be a cruise. In fact I would wager that climbing MysterZ would be faster than the hike up tp the Brownstone Wall. Have you climbed Armatron yet?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 17, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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No Phil, I've never done ir or even seen a picture till now. it was the photo up thread of Armatron which had me all but losing it. WOW. IT MUST BE CLIMMMMMEEDDDDD!!!! Damn that's good looking rock!!! Wow! I love puzzles like that, blocks of rock where you have to think on where your stance's and pro will be.
Part of the problem is that there is so much to climb at Red Rocks and it's all so damned good. My buddy has wanted to drag me up to Brownstone but the problem is that I always seem to climb off the couch in winter here where nothing but rain is happening and I'm old and out of shape and head down there. Thus I want to minimize my hiking and maximize my climbing. So I look for long routes with less hiking. Some of those upper gullys are ##XX$$!!! Anyway, buddy has fixed it in his mind that he doesn't want to repeat routes, and wants to climb only new ones. But when you are all creaky and out of shape, you want to do a long lap on an old fave to get the head back on straight. So we usually compromise. We start on what I want and then start in on some strange to make him happy....hmmm, that doesn't sound quite right given the hookers and blow comment....:-)
Last year some friends did the long 10c/d up there and raved about it, so that, Armatron and the Black Dagger are all up there waiting to be done (never been to Brownstone wall), and I was hoping to climb up there and noticed that another had recommended one of your routes to do it so I thought I'd just step up and ask the man hisself. You've don't some sweet and kick ass Fa's there. Good stuff. Thanks for the push. I hope to get down there maybe in October or Nov. Short days of course, but thats when I'm usually there, the weather start to go to crap here and it's so sweet down there. It's a rare day we don't get in at least a thousand feet of climbing. mmmmMMhhh!
Dogfathers photo of Armatron, WOW!!!
he said "Armatron. You get almost 3 full pitches of this type of amazing rock."
I'm enchanted.....wow.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 17, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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I was last man on the final rap by headlamp. Have not done a party of four in a long time. No stuck ropes on the raps made this day a success. Am I ever fat again.... Photo shoot with Cinnamon at dawn tomorrow on horseback. Wish I was here for another month or two to shed thirty pounds. Climbed with the hairyhotdog today. This place is too much fun!
Looking forward to being fit enough to repeat some of Philo's routes here.
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Feb 17, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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Rain Tuesday and Wednesday. Plan accordingly.
if it's heavy in the canyons that will shut you down Thursday and Friday.
It's possible to climb local limestone crags or go to the Keyhole granite.
Rodeo Wall has SE exposure
Gun Club has bees
Hole in the wall Mexican place at Jones and Charleston
La Compita
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 17, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Just keep sweating Bruce.
You are all having fun and struggling around at the same time. That's a good plan for body shrinkage. Keep on having a good time and good things will happen...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Mike, pay the peanut gallery no heed -many of those bolted routes fit the jim bridwell definition of sport climbing as being a akin to sport copulating - a lot of fun and not a lot of commitment.
Greg, you'll be proud. I stuck my neck out today on a traditionally bolted route. More commitment and excitement on an 80 foot route than I've experienced all trip!
Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?
What!! They have hookers and gambling here???? DAMN!! What am I doing???? ;)
Philo I wanted to do MysterZ just to say I climbed a Philo route!! Alas.. Next time.
I'm getting depressed pretty fast.
Chin up Cosmic. Get your life back on track and heal up your body. Call me when you're ready and i'll get down here again to go send!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 18, 2013 - 06:44am PT
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BigMike and Vegasclimber thanks for sharinggreat pics of an obviously great time.
MysterZ is one of three new routes that Jimmy Newberry and I established on a trip in 2003. In each case we were trying to follow the poor and misleading info in Swain's guide. Instead of finding the existing climbs we ended up putting up new ones. Oh well Cest la vie, C'est la guerre.
MysterZ is an excellent way to approach the Brownstone Wall. It is a fun and varied route and I would heartily recommend it. Of all the routes I have been involved with establishing at Red Rock MysterZ ia by far the easiest and least committing while still being a good day out.
For those interested here is a topo for it .
Now, about those hookers and gambling.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:02am PT
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You guys certainly seem to know how to keep the fun meter maxed out!
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:19am PT
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he has a photo shoot.....?
Damn! That Sasquatch stuff is starting to pay off in silver dollars huh?
Remember to go do Eagle dance - its over bolted, super easy and really scenic. Alternately, if you want a super short approach to a shady route, Fridgidaire Buttress is really good
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:23am PT
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That caliban picture is badass. Sounds like a good lead too.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:41am PT
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Couchmaster, the upper pitches of Armatron are amazing. It's like God's own master mason built it for maximum climbing pleasure. But just a note, don't take P.2 for granted. The crux is short but just a wee bit slick and tricksy.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 18, 2013 - 09:03am PT
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Great thread!! I don't know why the title got lost somewhere between my eye and brain until this morning when I happened to catch the author's name.
Good to see all the advice, activity, and scenery. I think I have a photo of the same cactus Big Mike showed on the way to the Red Book.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 11:01am PT
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Remember to go do Eagle dance
I Wish!! The photo shoot killed Bruce this morning. As I expected. It's supposed to rain around 4 tomorrow so we might have time for something short if yeti hunter can get out of bed.
Still hoping to get pumped out on some clip ups this afternoon..... Fvck. I should just throw the 7.5 on my back, steal the car and go solo!!!!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Yes, yes you should.
There's some really fun bouldering out at Willow Springs too. I sent harder than I ever thought possible on the blocs there. It was a V6, which for me is pretty incredible
Go party on the rock dude.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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"Couchmaster, the upper pitches of Armatron are amazing. It's like God's own master mason built it for maximum climbing pleasure. But just a note, don't take P.2 for granted. The crux is short but just a wee bit slick and tricksy."
Thanks Phil. Wish I was there right now climbing in the warm sun. Went hiking with the wife instead of climbing yesterday, colder than it should have been and windy. Saw 4 Eagles.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Thanks for adding those shots Mike! Tell Bruce thanks for taking them.
You could always head out to Calico Basin and Kraft Boulders, you're sure to find many Pad People there...
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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A few more shots of Armatron
Upper pitches are really unique too.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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Awesome pics guys, looks like a fun time fo sho!!!
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Feb 18, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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Hail a cab on the strip, ask for some adderall, stick that in his Jenny Craig meals and get ready to climb
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Nice one big mike! Nothin wrong with sport climbing, especially in sin city. Lap out while you can, nothin but clouds, showers & minimal accumulations await you back home.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Glad to see you both got out.Yah in my mind climbing comes in all forms, Enjoy them all and with that 6 foot 7" frame you'll never need a stick-clip!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Well I sure out did my self this morning, and am I ever in Cinnamon's good books this year. The Lady Godiva ride went off without a hitch at dawn. I got the money shot and we've made plans to hit the Gun Shop after climbing tomorrow to break in her new Glock and practice up on the home invasion defence scenarios. After the recent attempted break in at her place the police whom attended advised her to buy a gun.
Now all I have to do is get out of bed for a climb like I can get out of bed for a woman. Hmmm that sounds weird...
She says biz at the strip club is booming, and I believe that this kind of discretionary spending is a leading economic indicator that the USA economy has turned the corner and the recession is behind us.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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I can't understand why people think Red Rock is the 'Be all, End all' of Vegas area climbing ?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 18, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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Because I hate limestone
Oh ya I also saw a large daylight meteor over Las Vegas this morning at sunrise
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 18, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
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"I can't understand why people think Red Rock is the 'Be all, End all' of Vegas area climbing ?"
Interesting comment from someone who has a picture labeled "Red rocks bliss"
It's true not all the climbing is on exellent rock but the etheral middle earth landscape of the canyons makes the area a pretty special place in my eyes!
Do we get to see the bunny, I mean money shot, Bruce?
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 18, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Go 103 miles NE and climb some good Basalt cliffs with a 10 second approach.
Or...
:)
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 18, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Joanne took this picture about 5 years ago on our approach to the Brownstone Wall to do Armatron.
If you look at the top of the pic you will see a healthy heard of the desert bighorns that add a magic to the experience.
They seemed fairly unperturbed by our passage and presence. In fact they hung out with us all day basking in the sun on the slab below Armatron. They and us were the only souls there that day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Wow! Those Armatron shots are amazing!! Ryand you gotta come back here with me so we can go slay some killer trad routes!!!
Thanks for the bighorn shot Philo! Very cool!!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 18, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Philo,
Is that really a Bighorn in your picture, or are you just happy to see us ?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 18, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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Harry I already got banned once from supertopical on Cinnamon's accord. Check my Facebook page for images ....
Philo, that's incredible!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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Bruce asked me to put this shot up from the mornings activities.
From left to right.
Bmacd, Shilah, Shilah's Daddy, Cinnamon
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 08:01am PT
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Wow. Up at atom already? It must be a miracle!! Just about to jump in the car.
See you guys on the flip side!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:21am PT
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The pics are beautiful.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:27am PT
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Nice shot Phil. This herd was off the trail @ 20 feet. Saw them on the other side of the canyon and to my amusement, watched LOTS of tourists walk by on the trail oblivious to their presence. Finally I wandered over to see how well cammoed they were and got this shot from @ 25 feet.
I thought that it was interesting and amusing to encounter a herd hanging out on the final 5.3 pitch of some long route down there. Strong climbers those sheep.
BTW, little note. Last time I was down there in May with my son, I took him up to the limestone area NW of Vegas. Leading what should have been a popular route (5.10a, bolted, easy access) I got nailed in the finger by a scorpion. More painful and longer lasting effects than the scorpions around here. Fortunately it was the last day. Great place to head when it's warm below as it's situated at the 8000 foot level or so.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:43am PT
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Wow Couchmaster that is an excellent shot and a great encounter.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 19, 2013 - 08:46am PT
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Hey Mike, are those ghosts in the skyline in your first shot on this page?
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 19, 2013 - 09:05am PT
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Spooky.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
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Brandon- ya HDR ghosts. My iPhone app takes two pics, one light one dark and then combines them. So sometimes moving objects get ghosted. Hence the climber lowering in the background or two Bruce's on the trail to Birdland.
Just got back from Cat in the Hat choose your own adventure style!! So sick! More in a bit.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Hey Mike, are those ghosts in the skyline in your first shot on this page?
Foreshadowing, dude. I'm going to be there in two weeks, but ectoplasmically speaking, some of me is already there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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I got up at 6:30am to find the Yeti Hunter already up and about!! Needless to say, I was stoked! The plan for the day was to run up The Cat In The Hat 5.6.
We got to the Pine Creek parking lot just before nine and there was already another party racking up in the parking lot. I asked them what they were planning on, and they said "Cat". I replied "same" and told Bruce "we have to go now!"
We threw the bags on and ran out if the parking lot. I set a fast pace as per usual and was surprised to see Bruce was right on my tail the whole way. Bruce picked the right approach trail which seems to be my weakness in this desert and we were very happy to find that we were the first party to get to the base.
We racked up quickly and as soon as I jumped on the first pitch, I heard voices coming up the trail. I made quick work of the first pitch but got a little confused when I got to the upper ledge and could not find the station. It turns out that I wasn't supposed to climb the squeeze chimney on the left, so after a bit of wandering around I decided to set up a gear belay in a nice crack just above the chimney.
This was variation #1.
I brought Bruce up and he was a little perturbed that I had flubbed the station and said "where are you??"
I told him I was on a gear anchor to which he replied, "Is it any good??"
It's bomber I said but he didn't even bother to check it out, or grab the gear, or the tag line and just kept on truckin'.
He scrambled up the next short corner and stopped at the tree above the second rap anchor. I piled the tag line and all the gear on my shoulders and had the anchor mostly dismantled by the time he had me on belay.
He took this shot when I got to the tree.
Bruce MacDonald Photo
After another quick start I wanted to go up the nice crack beside the tree but Bruce said "I think that's the second pitch of the grinch?" Go check around the corner. I went right and started climbing the next flake and Bruce said "I don't think it's that one either! Go check around the next corner!" I shoulda just told him to shut up and kept climbing but after my routefinding mistake on the first pitch I guess I was open to suggestions.
I climbed up the ramp to the top of the Cookie Monster 5.7 pitch and the corner above looked pretty mellow so I started to cast off. Just then a guy rocked up behind me and asked if this was Cat in the Hat. I said "I don't know dude... I hope so!" He asked if he could anchor on the ledge beneath me which I had no problem with and I proceeded up the corner.
About 10 feet up I stepped on a horn that I obviously shouldn't have and it snapped under my weight. I had two good hands and a great left foot, so I managed to stay on, but I screamed "Rock!!!" at the top of my lungs. Then Simon screamed it three times, because his girlfriend was directly below me! Luckily she managed to get out of the way.
I continued up the corner but because Bruce was down the ramp and the rope was wrapped around the aret the rope drag was horrendous!! I slung everything long just trying not to make it worse. I got to a small ledge but didn't see anything really good to anchor to (total tunnel vision on my part) so I continued up to a half decent stance to what I found out later was halfway up the fifth pitch. I called down to ask how much rope left and Bruce said "40 feet!".
I was pretty damn sure that I wouldn't be able to finish the pitch on that amount of rope and this was definetly the last half decent stance so I built another bomber gear belay and brought Bruce up. When he arrived I told him I wasn't sure if he really wanted to hang out there, but there was a bolted anchor on top of the pedestal to my right. He chose to climb up the chimney and use the C11 H17NO3 anchor as his belay. After sending over the tag line so he could manage it for me and getting some draws back he took this pic of me.
Variation #2
Bruce MacDonald photo
Unfortunately the manual focus button got hit and he didn't realize it.
The end result of all this was I got to lead the last pitch too!! BONUS!!!!
It was money!!
I cruised the pitch and clipped my first bolt of the day on the little slabby runout at the end. What a great pitch! I got to the top and exclaimed, "hey there IS fixed anchors on this thing!!" ;)
I took a couple snaps of Bruce on the last pitch.
I also got a couple of Simon the nice gentleman who's girlfriend I nearly snuffed....
Bruce chillin at the top
Bruce got these summit shots of me and Simon
It was a bit windy up there....
Bruce MacDonald Photo
Bruce MacDonald Photo
We decide to rappel together since it would be faster. It sure was with four ropes! We rapped to the capstone which I never even saw on the way up and the party that we had passed in the parking lot in the morning was freezing their butt off there. Somehow they had allowed another party to pass them as well!
Everything went extremely smoothly which was nice and I got these shots when I got to the tree rap.
Yet another party
South face of Mescalito
We all got down safe and we beat the forecasted rain!!
I took this shot of Mescalito on the way out.
A celebratory Vanilla Coke in the parking lot post send.
Bruce MacDonald photo
What a day!! I ended up leading nearly the whole thing and had quite the adventure to boot!
I looked up the corner I climbed in the book, but no mention?? Surely someone must have climbed it before me?? It's right above Cookie Monster??? I dubbed it the "Big Mike variation" anyways and it goes at 5.6 too. It was actually quite fun!!!
I'm pretty bagged now, which I am quite pleased about!!! If only it weren't going to rain tomorrow and me and Harry could get on another long route!!!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 19, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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Sounds like a sick day! Sorry we missed it - I was so fried when I got home from work that I forgot to call you guys, my bad - tell Bruce I said have a good flight!
Interesting variation there...I couldn't tell but it looks like you might have missed the traverse off the top of P4...too bad that's a blast. Glad you made it to the right top in the end and had a great time, that's what it's about!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
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Ya we missed that traverse for sure dude. No worries about the call, we were pretty bagged too.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 09:46am PT
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Just put yeti hunter on a plane. Currently stuck at fox car rental again.. Doh!!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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have a safe trip back, man. next time you come down you have a partner in me for sure...
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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I'm curious Vegasclimber. Is there still a small metal container at the top of Geronimo? We put up that route in honor of a good friend and left the box attached to a bolt. It had some info about him in it. And as a coincidence his daughter is named Christina. Looks like you're having a good time on it. Bill
edit: have you tried Purblind Pillar? Fun route.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:30am PT
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Box not there, congratulations on bagging a classic route though.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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Hi, Bill! You and Michelle had your route glasses on that day for sure - I would have never spotted the line.
I haven't seen a box up there either time - is it somewhere that would be clearly visible?
Would love to hear more about your friend and the FA if you would care to share.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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Wicked finish!
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LaurieLighthouse
Sport climber
Belgium
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Feb 20, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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Vegas baby!...And so it will in a week, for maid of honour reasons.
As many people have told me about the "If in Vegas go to Red Rocks", I'm outstaying the wedding parties etc, and am completely free to go climbing between 5th and 9th, flight back to Europe on the 10th. Anyone around, willing, and without regular jobs that tie them up on weekdays...? As in please come climb with me!!
And I'm in no way fixated on Red Rocks.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 20, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Hahaha!! Lol!! Too funny! Thanks cosmic! I'm staying with Harry tonight and we went to Excalibur for lunch with his family.
I don't fly out till 7 tomorrow night, so I'm still hoping to get a few routes in tomorrow. What's the limestone beta?? Where do I find it?
Edit Would love to hear more about your friend and the FA if you would care to share.
Ditto!!
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Feb 20, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Vegasclimber, The route is named after a fine gentleman, Maxi Gonzales. He was a friend of my father-in-law and part of a father/daughter Indian Princess Guides club my wife took part in as a young girl. Maxi's Indian name in the group was Geronimo. He was very much like an uncle. Sadly, he got cancer and died way too young and we decided to name a route in his honor. I'd spied the line on an earlier trip, so my wife and I did the route and later invited his son to climb it. It was his first rock climb and he did great! The whole family watched from the nearest parking lot. The memorial box we left was wired to a lone bolt I put on top of the final pitch. It turned out to be a decent line with nice exposure. We rapped down a rope eating chimney to the climber's right I think and not getting your rope caught became a major crux of a Geronimo outing. I heard a rap line is place now. Bill
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Feb 20, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Bill,
Thank you for the background on Maxi Gonzales and Geronimo. I didn't see the memorial box last year. We really enjoyed the route and we went down the "rope eating chimney" successfully. A guided group that were behind us used an alternate rappel and they did have a stuck rope....
Erik
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 20, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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Bill, thanks for sharing that with us. That gives the climb a whole new meaning for me, very appreciated.
I was hoping that maybe you had placed the box in an out of the way place on the summit so that it wouldn't be disturbed, but I guess that wasn't the case. Kind of a shame that it appears to be gone.
There is a rap line down the route now, but stuck ropes are still a high possibility. The top and second rap stations would probably be better if there were chains that extended over the lip, rather then the rats nest of tat on the bolts now. I cut some of the tat off the other day, and will clean up more the next time we get up there.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Anyone been up the approach to Eagle Wall? Just curious how obvious the 4th/easy 5th way is to approach it (the shortcut indicated in the Handren guide) as I am hoping to get up there one of the first weekends I'm in town.
thanks!
w
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 20, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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That's one of the coolest aspects of Vegas - there are still lifetimes of FAs to be done.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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next time you come down you have a partner in me for sure...
Stoked on that Weston!!
That's one of the coolest aspects of Vegas - there are still lifetimes of FAs to be done.
Heck ya!! Too cool!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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How much rain is considered too wet to climb? We got about .1 inches today at the airport. Any guesses??
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Mike, your best bet is to check the data here:
http://www.raws.dri.edu/cgi-bin/rawMAIN.pl?nvNRER
Depending upon what the read is there, and if the ground is dry where you plan to climb, that will determine whether it is okay to climb or not.
EDIT:
That data is for the visitors center on the scenic loop, so it is entirely possible you could go to the canyons and get hosed, or hell..even some of the pullouts given the high locality of some of the showers. If the ground is wet/damp, it is too wet to climb. Maybe check around on MP to see if anyone was out and about hiking or climbing today to give you a better idea? Should be able to give better insight to all interested parties in about 9 days...should be able to see Mt. Wilson from my front doorstep :-D
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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Sick link Weston! Thanks! No precip at the visitor center, calico basin hopefully should be dry!!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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The Mescalito adventure climbed like mountaineering trip to the top rap station, and we thoughtfully alleviated crowding on the standard route by choosing an alternate path to the top of the 5th, back at the parking lot by 3:30. Meeting a competent young guy on top who really helped with getting the raps done quickly as a team of four was icing on the cake. The rope pulls on the Geronimo raps were the crux, I insisted on doing them all as it was my rope. Great Red Book was cool ... Birdland and more next time.
Great place, fun times and good climbing. Hopefully feel good enough to climb harder the next time. I've been fighting some sort of bug the whole trip, going to see my GP about it tomorrow. I am now home in one piece, and thank you, to you Mike for being a great climbing partner ...
Sandstone and strippers, that's my kind of Vegas !
Adios Amigos !
Edit: I lost ten pounds in ten days in RR
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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No problem, man. One of my regular partners is a DRI researcher and linked me to that when I kept wondering how things were out there. I have come to find that it is hit or miss relative to accuracy of smaller rain events, but anything that would shut RR down for days tends to register there in high order.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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WML;
Once you move to Vegas, and I am around, I'll take you to a cool place
NE of Vegas where there is some very good Basalt.
The 10 second APPROACH can be Horrendous tho.
:)
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Cosmic, you talkin' bout Rainbow?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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Good to hear you made it home Bruce! It has been an excellent trip indeed. It certainly never would have happened without you!! Thanks for all the tips and tricks and for putting up with my new fangled way of doing things. ;)
I'll see you tomorrow night!!
Weston, very good info. Considering how close calico is to the visitor center it should be close I hope.
Cosmic is that basalt place you speak of those pics that you posted on my crack thread awhile back??
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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Mike, go to The Fox you must. Enjoy to the max YOU WILL. Would recommend that one in the AM since faces NE...quite possibly my favorite short route at RR.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Yes WML.
It's a cool little canyon
and Yes, Big Mike.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Looks pretty cool! Bumper belay and some neat lookin' 5.10 cracks! Does it get much better than THAT?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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If we have extra time tomorrow The Fox is on the list. If not ill just have to come back and do it with you!!
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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They even got Crawdads in the little creek that runs thru Rainbow canyon.
YUMMMMMMMM
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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Rainbow looks sick!! I'm so coming back...
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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If we have extra time tomorrow The Fox is on the list. If not ill just have to come back and do it with you!!
Ah, you'll have the gear to TR it with you for PG I would suspect - doubles in the .5-3 range is what I recall being at the top. Last time had a friend photographing me on it so just clipped what he had been using up there to TR. TOTALLY worth your time, even for a TR lap. A taste of the Creek at Red Rock.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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No way I'm going to ruin that onsight with a tr!! Looks too money!!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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Understandable, bring yer big cams and game face!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 06:12am PT
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Alpine start!!!! Whut??? ;)
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:03am PT
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If any of you neer-do-wells need a partner over the next week, let me know. My usual partner is out of town for a while. I live 5 minutes away, and don't have much to do most of the time. Yes, cry for me.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:09am PT
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bjj, you ever been up to Eagle Wall? Got any beta on that? A buddy of mine and I are hoping to head up there soon. Also will be looking for post-work craggin' partners soon (got the house I was mentioning up-thread). I move down on March 2.
also, any of you who have been down there of late...what time is it getting dark in the canyons or in calico?
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:22am PT
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Right now it's getting dark 5-ish, WML.
That's one of the coolest aspects of Vegas - there are still lifetimes of FAs to be done.
Another cool aspect is that fact that in a lot of cases, I can pick up the phone and talk to the FA parties on many routes. Love that!
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:26am PT
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I havn't climbed at eagle wall, but I have been in the vacinity once or twice. Both Eagle dance and Levitation are on the slate for sometime in the next few weeks. The crux is the hike (and the walk offs)!
It's starting to get dark around 5, with headlamps needed around 5:20 I'd say.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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Thanks guys!
bjj, you guys plotting to head up via that 4th/easy 5th shortcut or the longer slog? Trying to suss out the feasibility of 'onsighting' the approach via the 4th/5th to save some time...
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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I'm fairly sure we'll solo / scramble our way up the shortcut.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Sweet! Depending on when you do it I may come your way seeking beta on it...
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 21, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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Good looking trip Mike, now get back to whistler and do some goat sacrifices to bring some snow.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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I guess the long way is a slog if your a regular who has spent many a day approaching the longer routes but as a visitor my memory of that longer approach to Eagle wall was one of awe.The complex gullies full of beautiful plant life so different than the desert combined with the route finding made for a magical experience.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 21, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Sweet pics! Glad you had a good trip man
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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Good looking trip Mike, now get back to whistler and do some goat sacrifices to bring some snow.
No need Justin, Ullr is happy I'm home.
Thanks Weston!! Stoked to climb with you when I come back..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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awesome trip mike! Thanks for all the photos & updates, sounded like a real productive trip. Was hoping u would bring the sun home but I'll take this if it keeps up!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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Thanks Ryan. I'm always hoping for snow instead of sun in the winter ;)
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 22, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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Hey Mike, you finally got the money pitch (P2 on PG)
Was a blast to climb with you and Bruce. Thanks for the great pics, and a great TR. Come back again sometime soon!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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Well our holiday down in Vegas has been great,the people down here are real friendly. It was great to finally meet Big Mike. Then we met the other Big Mike at the 4D Sponge Bob movie, he bought my kids popcorn and cotton candy. Although I hate cotton candy I wasn't about to argue with him!!! Here's Mike after he kicked my 6 year old out of his recliner, what a bully!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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This has been a very very fun "live, we are there" trip report. Thanks for taking the time to do all the pics and fun narratives. Looked forward to it every day.
Susan
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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Yo Mike, what'd ya think of Robertos? I heart that place.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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Hey Mike, you finally got the money pitch (P2 on PG)
Ya I did!! 58m of jamming beauty!! Great to meet you dude. Next time you better get some time off so we can go send crimson!!
Harry!! Mike Tyson?? Too cool!! It was great to meet you too dude. We have to find you a sitter a couple days this summer so we can do some chief laps!
Thanks Susan. Considering all the beta and opportunities it opened up, It was well worth the effort!
Weston, if I got the chance I would have ate there all the time!! I only got the opportunity to sample their breakfast burrito!!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
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Their breakfast burritos don't suck! I love their carne asada there. That very well could be my first meal once I get to town...something, anything, at Roberto's.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
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Rob-squirt- ohhhhhhhh's
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
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^^^can be quite accurate at times. But damn those carne asada burritos are good...
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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Mike Tyson....that's badass, just took this live TR to the next level. Guess It's not live anymore but still lives. Thanks to all that contributed to this TR. Always good to see some climbing pics.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
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Sweet trip Mike! Thanks for sharing. Makes me want to get out there
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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Yeah Briham!! Go check it out!!
Took this shot on the way out.
City of Lights
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Harry Kettmann and his kids chill with Mike Tyson...
This is surprising ? Harry can make any scene, ...better !
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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Harry rules! I was very impressed, especially with his attitude despite the lack of rope time lately. I would tie in with him anytime!!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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Harry offers the coolest time and best experience any one could ask for.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 24, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
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No Kidding - Harry is almost neighbours with Mike Tyson and has a killer pad I rented off of him last year for 3 months - it's a great place for rock and roll yoga parties
Harry soloed NF of Viennese ... thats hardcore - Grade V 5.10a
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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It was great climbing with you Mike and actually being part of one of your real time TR's. Great to see Bruce down here and meet Travis(Vegas climber) and Christina. Next year you should come down Jim B and enjoy this fine place. Here are a few pics I took of El Grande. Here he is about to ingest a 4.2Ib breakfast burrito into his 6' 7" frame.. Here is is in action, just look at the concentration as he composes his next shot Here he is again with a face only a mother could love, I mean we all love Can't wait to get out again but unfortunately that won't be for a while as we prepare for my wife's bone marrow transplant on March 20th.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Feb 26, 2013 - 09:29am PT
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Red Rocks FEB 26 2013
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 26, 2013 - 09:45am PT
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RAD view! I hear the weather down there is great right now. Hoping to get on some routes on Mt Wilson this fall...most attractive feature at Red Rock IMO
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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I'll be at another conference in Las Vegas April 5-11 (NAB). I hope to have either or both April 6 or 7 (SAT/SUN) if things go well with demo setup.
If I get myself out to Red Rocks, is it difficult to find a partner? Is there decent bouldering? Guide services? I've never been there before.
The decision on what I'm doing will be a game time decision; it will literally be a decision made the evening prior to going out there. Maybe I'll just go bouldering and hiking....
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
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^^^ go to the local climbing gym(by Desert Rock Sports), and ask around
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 08:05am PT
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Wow! How did I miss these?? Oh wait. Guess it's been a rough couple weeks ;)
Gunkie; I know there is a local website where people Advertise for partners. Not sure what it is. Even just going for hikes and scrambles is so worth it. It's beautiful out there!!!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Is there a bus service that goes from Las Vegas to Red Rocks NCA and back?
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Hey Gunkie!
No bus out to the NCA. You can usually find partners here, on (sorry gang) Mountain Project, and at the gym (Red Rock Climbing Center) or Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston. The gym and DRS both have guide companies.
Plenty of bouldering, sport routes, trad routes, multi, big wall, etc. Just depends on your flavor. I will shoot you a message.
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murse
Trad climber
San Clemente
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Mar 11, 2013 - 08:09am PT
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Can someone give me the low down on a late exit from the loop road area? I've previously just parked out of the loop if on a long day's outing. Sounds like i might not need to do the extra walking...
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WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
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Mar 11, 2013 - 08:38am PT
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Basically you call up with the info they ask you for here:
click me
essentially it allows you to leave late without getting fined from the canyons on the loop road, but does not allow you early access.
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murse
Trad climber
San Clemente
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Mar 11, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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thanks
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| Messages 1 - 299 of total 299 in this topic |
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