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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
My bags are packed, flights in the morning! 10 days in Red Rocks with Bmacd!

SUPER STOKED!!!!

The ticklist already includes:

Cat In The Hat
Tunnel Vision
Ginger Cracks
Crimson Crystalis
Birdland

Any other suggestions? Great places to eat? Things that must be seen? Sandbaggery?? Let me have it!! :)

(I know you would anyways...) ;)
aliebling

climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
If cat in the hat is crazy (likely), go back around the corner and start it with cookie monster instead (which is a great climb at the grade).
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
I would say skip Birdland, not much going for it except its easy and a classic 20 foot finger splitter on the last pitch.
Do Olive Oil instead. Awesome climb, all trad, including belays, and its a walk off. Having a 70 meter rope sure helps on Olive Oil but not neccessary.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Group Therapy, next to Tunnel Vision, is amazing.

for shorter days... Black Magic, the Great Red Book, Diet Delight.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
Cool! Thanks Allie, Studly and Gal! We will have 70's which will be nice.
dave

climber
Earth
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Dark Shadows....to the top! Don't rap after the first 3 like most people do, the descent is awesome too, take 2 ropes
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
A couple of years ago we wandered up to Birdland to find one party on it and 5 -- count them, FIVE -- parties waiting. So we moved about thirty feet left and jumped on [name forgotten] which is the same grade and maybe even better quality and had it to ourselves.

Did the same thing a couple of days later at Crimson Chrysalis. Hiked in, found a lineup, so moved over to Ginger Cracks and had that to ourselves. I haven't climbed CC, but Mari has and said Ginger Cracks was better.

Moral of the story? Forget the tick list. Any of the multi-star super-popular routes will likely have a lineup. But that's okay, because it means fewer people on everything else. And everything else is just as good -- often better.

Have fun, and get the place warmed up for us -- we'll be about three weeks behind you.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Here's something to get you stoked

Some climb at Red Rocks
Some climb at Red Rocks
Credit: Ghost
WTF

climber
Feb 10, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Levitation 29
The Fox in Calico


Dream f the Wild Turkeys

Fidler on the Roof
Byran

climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
For multipitch climbs in the sub-5.10 range (judging from your list that looks like what you're going for) a couple of my favorites are the Black Dagger (5.8) and Community Pillar (5.8), which are also less crowded than most of the routes on your list. Crimson Chrysalis is great climbing but also mega popular and all the bolted anchors are at bad stances, so hanging around waiting on the party-o-3 in front of you to sort out their clusterf*#k is especially unpleasant.

Bring your headlamps and call in for a late exit.

For food I sort of dig the L&L Hawaiian BBQ, behind the Burger King just on the other side of Charleston from the RR Casino. The best pizza is at the food court in Costco. You're supposed to show your membership card at the door but you can try just walking on in if you don't have one. If you have a bad weather day and want to get loaded before noon, the Champagne Brunch (Sat and Sun) at the Golden Nugget is $20 for stellar food and all you can drink booze. For a dinner buffet, the Freemont has a "steak night" on Wed and Sat, with all you can eat cooked-to-order NY cut steaks for $14.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
I recommend tunnel vision(just to say you did it),
And dark shadows, lotta balls, johnny vegas, dream of wild turkeys
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
i second Byran on Black Dagger it's in a great location, longish walk keeps the crowds away, the climbing is great and the descent is awesome, down the gunsight. Ragged Edges, only 2 pitches but hella fun! And yep Dark Shadows to the top.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
Credit: kennyt
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Ragged edges is cool-and no approach (basically).
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 01:44am PT
Wow! Thanks for the responses!


What grades are you looking to climb?

Great question wml. I'm thinking mostly 5.10 or below multi pitch, but I would like to get on some mid 5.10 single or two pitch routes.

Maybe if Bruce is feeling good we'll get on something a bit harder.


I called my mom today, because it was her birthday. She said "you're leaving Whistler? In winter?" "You must really like this climbing thing". I told her "winter sucks right now!" I still can't really believe it myself.

It can be hard to leave.



I'm on the road already, staying at bmacd's to cut down the drive in the morning.

He showed me his old gear stash



Bmacd
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 01:51am PT
Woooooooooo hooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

I miss Jer too. ;)
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:52am PT
Is that preparation H? See you both down there, it's warmed up again.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:58am PT
2nd skipping Birdland. Not sure where all the stars come from. Olive Oil = 10x better. Jubliant Song is a good option for something a tad more adventurous.
Oh man I'm so jealous. LOVE that place.

Edit: man I didn't think snow got that brown in Whistler! WTF??

Edit 2: Ghost that kind of looks like Valentine's Day in Moderate Mecca. A short but excellent corner. Was an early gear lead for me.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Berg, it hasn't been snowing very much since the new year! Makes it alot easier to go away for sure.

Harry yup! Hahahaha no it's epoxy. ;)
dugillian

Trad climber
Vancouver
Feb 11, 2013 - 02:14am PT
Skip Birdland.

Geronimo is a lot of fun with real sweet holds.

Jubilant Song is totally sweet.

Community Pillar is a go.
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Feb 11, 2013 - 06:32am PT
Frogland is awesome....so is Epinephrine ( prob my favorite).... Red rock is SWEEEEET!!
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 11, 2013 - 08:10am PT
im thinking of my coherts
out upon the road,
enroute upon a binge of sends,

as i strap in for a monday
morning grind of
feeding the circling sharks.

enjoy your trip, gents.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 08:34am PT
Thanks everyone!

Thanks weege. It's awesome to see that we can have a difference of opinion and still be nice to each other! :)

All the routes look awesome! Keep em coming!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 08:52am PT
Hey Weege. Feed the sharks, don't become food! ;)
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:12am PT
+1 Cookie Monster has awesome steep climbing.

A fun jug haul and keen way to pass early traffic on Cat in the Hat - plus you still get the summit pitch which is prolly the best pitch on Cat anyways.

thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:44am PT
If you do the long hike to Brownstone, you can get a full day of sun and climbing you won't forget on Armatron (walk off).
Armatron.  You get almost 3 full pitches of this type of amazing rock.
Armatron. You get almost 3 full pitches of this type of amazing rock.
Credit: thedogfather
One of our favorites. Also we love Black Magic and Dark Shadows. If going to Dark Shadows then hit the first two pitches of Y2K on the way in or way out. It has a 10a crux but that has a bolt right on the lip of the small roof you climb and the rest of that climb is classic 5.8. Rawlpundi is the route left of Birdland and worth doing. Also in the area is the great single pitch climb "Topless Twins"
Topless Twins
Topless Twins
Credit: thedogfather

For a big adventure, Black Orpheus is a full day.
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:20am PT
If you get tired of RR or need a change, I'll be down in Joshua Tree for the winter.

My top choice in easy 5.10 would be A Dream of Wild Turkey. Bring warm cloths for Crimson Chrysalis, I've been snowed off in April.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 11:21am PT
Wow! I'm always super impressed with the responses I get. Thanks guys!! The routes suggested so far look amazing!! Thanks for the pics Ghost and thedogfather!!!

I made it to the airport, with plenty of time to spare!


Hopefully Bruce is at the terminal in Richmond by now.

StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Rock Warrior is worth it.
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:43am PT
A chinese spot we found by accident, China Joes, a local chain with several outlets. Cheap and good.
dave

climber
Earth
Feb 11, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
+1 for the fox, but take a couple of big pieces or find yourself walking 1 along near the top.

Red Zinger, 10+ creek style 2 shortish pitches. I second y2k on way to dark shadows to the top, you wont find a topo on the last say 6 pitches +/- to the top but just keep going up its good and empty and the descent is tricky but a good adventure too and just plain cool wondering around up on those terraces.

Dream of wild turkeys goes to the top too, but no one ever does it, and you probably wont find a topo for that bit either.

Triassic sands. Wholesome full back, and that killer thing on the right of the wholesome fullback route, 'Our father' I think its called, really good 10+ creek-ish final pitch, that can be tr'd when rapping Wholesome Fullback if you don't want to do the whole route (I recommend the whole route)

Also if its warm Frigidaire buttress, ice box canyon.

Ah man I'm wishing I was going there too! Have fun, let us know if our list made the cut when you get home.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 11, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Brownstone is looking like a major winner with that Armatron thing. The other routes there are 3 to 5 star as well. Have a smoking good trip Mike and Bruce!
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 11, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Oh Sh#t, live TR in progress. Never been to RR, so can't give any beta, but cosmic might be in town and pretty sure he'd play the tour guide. PM me if you need his phone number. Have fun man!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 11, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
I did Brownstone in February and could've used a headlamp for the hike out,..
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
If you go all the way to brownstone, get an overnight pass and do Requiem for a Tadpole also... that climb was super sweet too with a bolted 5.9 pitch if you want to go around the chimney...
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Have a blast! Love your tick list. Sounds like every hot bar on the strip!

Susan
weezy

climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
my advice is to get a late-exit pass even if you're just cragging. might as well use up all the winter sun and not worry about getting locked in. i threw my back out at the brass wall one day and it took forever for me to walk out. we barely missed lock-down and talked the ranger into letting us go since i was all gimped up. it's nice to just be able to climb as long as you want and not worry about having to get back before six. i haven't been there in almost ten years, though so maybe things have changed.

vvv edit: yes, definitely do triassic sands. excellent exposure, not as hard as it looks from below. do wholesome fullback afterwards if you got some juice left
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
If you go to Black Velvet Canyon, you absolutely must do Triassic Sands. Does a hand crack on an arete sound fun, or what !?!?
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Yer gonna......




















Have a blast!

If you have some spare time, shoot me a message. We always like to meet Taco folks when they are in town!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Da Lat for pho and other Vietnamese and Mint Bistro for Indian. My favorite ethnic places down there.

Dogfather, thanks for the photos of Brownstone. i haven't made it out there yet and there's a few things there on my hit list. Plus it's sunny.

Big Mike a lot of the stuff people are recommending is in the shade all day. For right now? Could be OK or could be frigid.

My recommendation might be to get up really early, do the classics on the sunny side in your grade range but then do another 1-2 routes in the area and triple your pitch count for the day.

E.G. I personally love Birdland, but then I'd also go over and do Dark Shadows or go to the right and do topless twins, mushroom people and bush pilots.

Olive Oil is great, but then why not do Geronimo the same day? If there's no one there you would run up it. It's the time on the loop road and the hike in that eats it up. once you get somewhere, plan to maximize the climb to hike ratio.

Same with something like Frogland. There's stuff both to the right and the left that you can do to add mileage to your day.

Yeah, the Fox is great but it's one pitch. There are a ton of other 1 pitch routes less than 10 minutes away you can do in the same day if you spend a day in Calico basin.

I'm a bit jealous; wish I could get down there.
Phyl
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Before you throw yourself into the jaws of doom on those Red Rocks moderates, hit the Bonjour Bakery for coffee and pastries. I still have trouble believing that this place exists in Las Vegas, but it does, and not taking advantage of it is a mortal sin. Seriously. It may not be the best patisserie in the world, but it's better than almost anything in the US.

In a shopping plaza on the NE corner of Rainbow and Flamingo.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:10am PT
Taking notes, thanks people. The views of all the canyons from the plane today showed snow on all the ledges to half height on the northern aspects. Looking just as cold here in LV, as Squamish was last weekend

Forecast is looking great though.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:14am PT
Epinephrine to the top is probably my favorite climb I have done. May be a little chilly this time of year I suppose, but 2,000 feet of 5.7 to 5.9, what is not to like.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:18am PT
Justin knows how I roll!!


my advice is to get a late-exit pass even if you're just cragging. might as well use up all the winter sun and not worry about getting locked in

Great call!! Thanks!

Jim, sounds great! Triassic sounds cool. Might be tough to get to black velvet with the rental. Maybe if cosmic comes home we can bribe him with a tank of gas?? Hope we get a chance to meet up.

Bruce is talking to Vegasclimber right now as I type, so hopefully we'll hook up with him too.


I took a couple pics on the plane....

Anyone recognize this Washington peak?



A sea of clouds


Pyramid Lake




No idea. Guesses?




Vegas baby!


After a bit of buffoonery with the rental car, Bmacd came and saved my dumbass. We got jacked because of it too. Doh! (I will elaborate later when appropriate.)

After a few errands we made it to our oasis for the next 9 days.



Glad we didn't make it out climbing, VC just told us it rained yesterday!

Bruce says he saw snow on most of the north facing ledges, like phylp said, we may have to focus on sunny stuff for the next couple days. Any south or east facing ideas for us??
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Save up and splurge on the buffet at the Belogio if you get a chance. It was worth it last time I was there. It was like $30 but that was cheaper tham a lot of restaurants on the strip and they have almost anything you could want.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:21am PT
If you're looking for sunny, warm, and moderate climbing with an easy (real easy) approach check out Moderate Mecca. The picture I posted at the top of this thread was taken there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Belagio eh? Heard its pretty fancy! Sounds interesting.

Ya valentine's day looks rad!! Good call Ghost!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Second on ragged edges. I hear there are some good 5.10 right next door.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Of course no one on this thread has touched on the most important thing of all... Where do you get a good beer after a day of climbing in Red Rocks?

In the past, the answer was simple: you don't. If you wanted a good beer, you had to wait until you got home. But things have changed, and not only is good beer available, it is available almost within spitting distance of the park gate. The Red Rock Casino is a relatively new place way out at the west end of Charleston. About five minutes from the park entrance. And the pub actually has real beer. Or it did a couple of years ago. Maybe not as good as you can get in San Diego, SF, Portland, or Seattle, but not bad.

I'll be checking it out again myself in a few weeks because I am forced by my horrible job to go to Las Vegas and stay at the Red Rock Casino on my company's dime. Yeah, I know, it sucks, but I'll man up and do it.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:59am PT
Might be tough to get to black velvet with the rental.


Are you kidding??? Thats half the fun. You just need the proper off roadster:

The burro slayer
The burro slayer
Credit: Bruce Kay

triasick freakin sands
triasick freakin sands
Credit: Bruce Kay

Eagle dance is in the sun all day! Its way up there and worth the hike...
Eagle dance is in the sun all day! Its way up there and worth the hike - which is gorgeous on its own. remember to rap off when you get to the bolt ladder... then go over and do Leavitation 29
Credit: Bruce Kay



bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2013 - 03:24am PT
Isn't Johnny Vegas a full rope length 5.9 no pro situation? We are well equipped in the headlamp department but the rental car is a Chevy Aero with 2.5 inches ground clearance. I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet.

Solar slab would be a good adventure.

Apparently it rained here yesterday...
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:54am PT
I'll be there Friday to Sunday!

Charles
dave

climber
Earth
Feb 12, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful. with 2 ropes you can rap and you'll be rapping the bottom section of solar slab so you can see what you didn't miss out on, plus Beulahs will be in the sun the whole time while on solar slab you'll be stuffed way back in a chimney system till you reach the glorious ledge half way up. Beulahs is to the left and has a great 2nd. pitch, take a #4 camalot.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
" I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet."






Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.

:(
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
bmacd the hendron book says for the 3rd pitch of jonny vegas "straightforward climbing (5.5) leads up the arete with no pro until you are level with the roof on the left"

I got at least 3 decent pieces in over that length: a very nice pair of nuts set in opposition in a horizontal about 12 feet off the belay, a lowe ball somewhere, and a small cam somewhere. And it really was completely straightforward. It's a fun and lovely route, but you know what? The solar slab gully at 5.3 was actually a lot of fun and it gets you up high too.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
I use the gully quite a bit to introduce people to multi pitch. It can be a bit of a slog, and rope drag is an issue especially on the first pitch. If you guys are interested in giving it a go, we can run up it Saturday or Sunday.

Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!


You may not be so sure about that after tonight.
Derek

climber
Feb 12, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
It's mentioned once up thread, but I'll put in another plug for Frigidair Buttress. It's a superb oldschool-style meat and potatos crack climbing romp. Don't be put off by the "wide" pitch. There are good jams in the back, and ample face holds after the first few feet. Also don't sweat the descent. Despite some reports to the contrary, it's not especially ticky by RR standards, though it might be hard to sort out in the dark, I suppose. Simply a great route.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...

Have a good climb you guys. I'll be creepin on your live TR when I can.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.

Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple.




You may not be so sure about that after tonight.


Waddya trying to say there tough guy?? ;)

We are on our way to the crags now. Decided on a mellow morning to let things warm up and dry out a bit.

Edit Charles we would love to meet up this weekend!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
"Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple."




That would be GREAT, Big Mike!
There is a LOT of good climbing here in Apple Valley.
My cell is: 760-780-8433

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Feb 12, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
Johnny Vegas has a sweet 5.9 variation.
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
Credit: thedogfather
The crux is a layback around the corner to eventually find a bolt to clip.
Might not want to fall here :)
Might not want to fall here :)
Credit: thedogfather
Red Zinger is right next door
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
Credit: thedogfather

Also in the area is the fun Buelah's Book
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

My plan for the whole rest of this week is bolt clipping in the sun. But, I live 10 minutes away, and I have the luxury of going out whenever I want.

Brownstone wall is a good choice, with a hell of a nice view, and a pretty good hike. We did Nightcrawler not long ago (I took a 35 foot whip off the 4th pitch) and the quality of the rock up there is impeccable.

FWIW, last week there was NO ONE on Crimson, Johnny Vegas (we did it in about 30 minutes as a simul), Solar Slab, etc. Everywhere seemed deserted for some reason.

^^^ Red Zinger is pretty amazing. Indian Creek style all the way. The sun only hits the route itself for about 30 minutes around 3pm right now, IIRC.

mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 12, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
Have a blast! Haven't been to Red Rocks for a few years, but loved every minute of it. Met Charlie Fowler there, and he told me he thought it might be the best overall climbing area in the world (a comment he elaborated on, at length). It's a pretty sweet place.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 12, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
Glad you made it down Bmacd and Bmike, we are all down and settled in Henderson. All you regular
s have been really helpful with route information. I'm looking for some easy crags that are suitable for kids. Cliffs that get some sun and are less than a mile from the car, any ideas? Thanks in advance. Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
Panty wall 5.5/5.6/a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8.
15 minute approach by RR standards.

Another good alternative is White Slab at Calico Hills. TR 5.6/5.8. Very close to the parking lot for the days when you or the gang have just had enough. A nice area to hike with the kids, not much elevation loss or gain and some cool scenery, probably covered with top ropes on weekends.

Post pics of your future Rock stars.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful.

Thanks! Looks fun!

Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...

Sick dude! How are the temps? Pics look warm!!

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

COOOOL!!!! Thanks Dwain! Ill go check him out!

Bruce is all about multi so it might not happen.. Maybe if I tire him out real good, but it might be tough to leave the luxury we are paying for!

thedogfather- you're killing it with the pics!! Thanks! Looks rad. Something around that zone might be the plan tomorrow.

You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

Your not kidding bbj!! It was awesome in the sun today! Perfect temps!

It's a pretty sweet place.

Heck ya it is Mooser!!! So gorgeous and the rock is so cool!


We went out Calico today to hit up MM. I really wanted to get on Valentines day!


The gruelling approach






Calico Basin






Bad Soup 5.9? Really??






Very cool landscapes! That boulder looks sweet!





This one looks really fun!!




Where the heck are we??






The Mecca of Moderates



Once we got our bearings Bmacd jumped on Abbey Road for a nice warm up. He sent it in style. I got him to toprope me on Fleet Street after which had a couple moves that seemed a bit harder than that! Would be a bold lead.


Bruce racking up.




Beautiful rock!




Found this on the trail


Then we went over to valentines day and I sent that. Took way too much big gear (#3 friend up to #3 Camalot and didn't place any of it.


Valentines day 5.8+



I took a couple pics of Bruce with his camera so maybe I can get him to post some up later if any turned out.

I toproped Ace of Hearts after and it was rad! I had to pull the Ondra screaming technique out of the bag to get through the crux. Bruce asked me "what's going on up there?" ;) I got up it clean tho which was sweet. That would be a *really* bold lead!!!


Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!

Yeah! Abbey Road that we did today would be perfect for the kids. Not much for toproping options tho if you aren't leading with them.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
Cool Lurky!!! Thanks for the sick pics!

Rolf- thanks for the invite!!
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
The Warrior
The Warrior
Credit: Gobi
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
bjj and all other locals, it would be great to meet you folks. So many choices for climbs, but very cold in the shade right now....

My local LV number is 702 601 1751. Don't be shy!

Difficult to read all this great information posted to the thread as we have only our smart phones.

Thanks everyone for the input.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:55am PT
Cool WML!!!!!

Bruce sent me one of the keepers from valentines day




We met up with Travis and Christina tonight which was very nice! They are really cool people!
Thanks for coming out guys! You shoulda told us you were starving, I woulda got some appies out!

They posed for this nice shot



Bmacd also got a group shot!

Bruce MacDonald photo
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 13, 2013 - 02:56am PT
Had a good time hanging out with Bruce and Mike tonight!

The better half and I had to go to a SAR team meeting, so we didn't get over there till about 9. Hence why I look like a pumpkin in the shots :-| Had time to BS for a while and give them some beta for climbing tomorrow - looks like they will go for Cat in the Hat with the Cookie Monster variation.

We are going to try and get out there with them on Saturday. Mike is one seriously TALL dude!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Thanks for the name reminder Wml! Bruce wanted to do that one but couldn't remember the exact name. We are headed over there now!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 13, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
What's in the Altoids tin? Ha!
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 13, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
What's in the Altoids tin? Ha!


Er....actually, Altoids. Sorry to wreck your perception and all. :p
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 13, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Simply a joke, take no offense.

Altoids tins are notorious for multiple uses.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Altoids tins are notorious for multiple uses.

They are quite handy! I might have to pick one up myself. ;)

wml- coming up!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
Big Mike, dontchya feel just a little guilty climbing in those horrid conditions?
Plus I know damn well there's no buffets even remotely close in Squamland.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 13, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Mike and Bruce, I love your style. Keeping it real. Peace out!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 12:15am PT

Big Mike, dontchya feel just a little guilty climbing in those horrid conditions?
Plus I know damn well there's no buffets even remotely close in Squamland.

Ya.. It's pretty bad ;) haven't seen a buffet yet, or even been near the strip! ;) Soon enough I'm sure.

Mike and Bruce, I love your style. Keeping it real. Peace out!

Wayno!! Relic is planning an Easter trip to Leavenworth so we will be kidnapping you for that one!! Make sure you have the time off!!

We got up at 6:30 this morning but we were both still bagged. Neither of us managed to get enough sleep and Bruce had the sinus migraine from hell, so I told him I didn't mind if we got some more sleep. He seemed pretty stoked at that idea so we snoozed a bit. It is supposed to be a vacation after all.

We woke up late and took care of some errands before we headed out to the crag. We didn't get to the second pullout till about 2:15 and the gates are closed at five these days so we were cutting it close.


Second pullout


We decided to head up to The Great Red Book 5.8 thanks to wml's excellent reminder.

Amazing geology here..




Bruce heading up the gully.




These gullies are amazing. Such cool formations!




A cool little cacti? I spotted.


I went a bit high up the gully before trying to cross over, and we ended up having to backtrack a little. Being that we were short on time Bruce wasn't super stoked.. :) oops.


The Great Red Book. 2p 5.8



We got to the base and I was still feeling pretty rested so I racked up for the first pitch. It was really fun and took great gear, even if it was a bit spacey. 5.7 can be pretty serious around here, and I certainly wouldn't want to fall on that pitch! It wouldn't be very pretty as Vegasclimber illustrated quite well last night with his tuna an chips story. (See TR)


Bruce on p1 (5.7)



Pulling the last couple moves on p1



Bruce followed p1 seamlessly and we swapped over at the belay. I thought he did quite well with the second pitch, especially with his sinus deal, but he wasn't super happy with it. He got up it clean tho!

Bruce leading p2


P2 was rad! Some spicy face moves to start followed by a weird switch to layback corner and then a romp up the nice corner to the belay. Bmacd opted to follow the corner all the way up and set up a gear belay by the small tree at the top of the slot.

While Bruce took care of the rope, I went left to scope out the descent, and had take this snap of my shadow.


Big Mike on the summit




Bruce coiling the rope


It was 4:45 by the time we started down and we really didn't want a ticket!!


Running down the descent gully to make it back to the lot on time!


We made it. Bruce wanted to go, but I just had to get this one last shot.

Red Rocks sunset.


I think it was worth it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 12:22am PT
Unsure. We will see how we feel in the morning. Hopefully good and we can go attack something bigger!!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Cool and funny to see dudes from the great white north tripping out on a cactus!
Enjoy your trip to the desert guys.
Be safe and have fun!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Big Mike! Don't have time to read thru all this right now but u have to go to the omelette house for breakfast, fukin place is made for u. I think it's on charleston?? Don't get talked into some BS all u can eat scetti like last time. Go for the goods! Massive omelettes designed for the most morbidly obese mericans, the glory!! Enjoy!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:45am PT
There's also Waffle Depot on Charleston.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 14, 2013 - 12:56am PT
Also Egg Works and Hash House a Go-Go are excellent for breakfasts.

Great shots today guys! Stoked to get out there with you on Saturday'
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 14, 2013 - 01:01am PT
Easter in Lworth sounds like a good thing. Let's make it happen!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 14, 2013 - 01:04am PT
I am so BUMMED I can't be there.
I'm stuck here in Apple Valley.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 14, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Breaking news :

http://sasquatchgenomeproject.org/

Oops wrong thread...

Apparently another species of humans coexist with us and three complete genome sequences have been done on them.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 14, 2013 - 01:11am PT
another species of humans coexist with us

I would venture to say that another species of human is not all that coexist with us. Only time will tell.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 02:19am PT
Me too Dwain. I even tried to get Bruce to plan this trip around you being here but it just wasn't to be. Next time for sure!!!

Travis told me he gave you a new rope. I'm super happy he did and at the same time a little disappointed because I was hoping to surprise you with one...

Omelette house eh? Harry very kindly offered to put me up on my last night here since Bruce is leaving a day before me, and he's in charleston so maybe then??

There is an in-n-out just down the block so I am definitely getting A animal burger on the way home tomorrow!!

Jefe us pasty white dudes don't get to see cacti to often!! ;)

Thanks Travis!! Bruce only wanted me to upload 4 pics to save bandwidth on his 3G but I just could t resist posting more... ;) oops...
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:37am PT
I'd check out this place for food:
http://abcnews.go.com/Health/heart-attack-grills-unofficial-spokesman-died-heart-attack/story?id=18477145
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
I am taking a mandatory rest day tomorrow, having climbed seven out of the last ten days and the last three back to back including today.

So this is a late call out for a partner for Big Mike tomorrow. Mike is climbing fast and strong, he's solid.

Thanks in advance.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
When is Easter?

Sorry, I'm not Catholic enough to know, but it's generally around mid-Spring, is that right? If you guys are coming down here then, I'd like to join the fun.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
Ghost it's in April sometime?? We'd love to have you join us!!

Edit apparently I don't know either.. March 31 this year.

Edit what Bmacd said. Would love to get out and slay some pitches tomorrow!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Edit what Bmacd said. Would love to get out and slay some pitches tomorrow!!

If you're looking for a semi-rest day, find someone to tie on with and head up Prince of Darkness. The technical grade is 10c, but it's all bolt-protected and low-stress. Dream of Wild Turkeys (right next door) is probably better, but there's something to be said for low-stress.

Okay, caveats: the first pitch is not bolt-protected, but it's also really easy. i.e. low-stress. And the last pitch is actually a real crack, and you might have to place some pro, but the descent is right back down the way you came up, so you can preserve your mellow by just not doing the last pitch.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Jump on a plane Dave, lets do this!! ;)
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:30am PT
Hey Big Mike, enjoying your trip vicariously...love Red Rocks....
Have you been to Zion or Indian Creek yet?

Have fun, keep up the neat pics and updates....hopefully a nifty Trip Report will show up!


Susan
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:47am PT
Susan- thanks! IC is on the list for sure!! Haven't been to Zion either! So many places, so little time.. I think this is the tr! I might expand on it a bit later, but I still have my Yosemite tr to put together when I get home!


We got another late start today... It didn't help that my helmet decided it wanted to camp out overnight in a bush near the start of The Great Red Book....

After a quick run up there to find it we headed over to Pine Creek Canyon to check out Birdland.


Bruce on the Pine Creek Trail



Headed up the trail..



The Brass Wall



Bruce on Birdland 5.7 (p1 5.6)



Following p2 5.7



Bruce leading p3


And that's all we had time for today.. We had to run back to the car. Gotta remember to book that late exit pass!!


Another gorgeous Vegas sunset.



And a crescent moon to boot.



Finally got my In-n-out fix!!







Double double Animal burger and a chocolate shake mmmmmmmmmmm!! That's a tasty burger!!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:49am PT
There's a trail up Pine Creek now?
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Several of them.... :-| all the climbers fault, of course (sarcasm)
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:08am PT
Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.

John M

climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:11am PT
That desert camo stuff really works. Yall seem to be fading into the picture. haha..
Scrubber

climber
Straight outta Squampton
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.

I didn't read through your whole thread, but high on our list of eateries is a Thai place at the north end of the strip in a little plaza (sorry don't know the name, but it's highly regarded), the buffet at the Rio casino is mind blowing. Go in early just before they switch from lunch price to dinner price. Then you're already in when the steaks and alaskan king crab legs come out! If you haven't tried it already, the restaurant at the Bonnie Springs ranch just west of the loop road is pretty cool. huge fireplace to enjoy your PBR's around while bullshitting about your day's adventures

k
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:32am PT
Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.

Oops!! What do we know??? Where is our local guide???


Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.

That's Bruce!! He's quick that guy... ;)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:48am PT
Cosmic does resoles I think??

Wml check your email and start driving... ;)
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 11:36am PT
^^^ 5 minutes? Sounds like you'd be my neighbor.

Yesterday was nice, but windy. We simulclimbed Johnny Vegas with the 5.9 variation, to sundog on the upper slab. Got a bit unpleasant with the wind and cold on the second to last pitch, so we bailed. That was interesting, as rapping with a single 80m rope means having to do some downclimbing here and there.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Saw your post WML.
I do some resoling.
My own and for a few friends.

The way things are going I am having to spend a lot of time
in calif working as My wife is unable to find any work.
So I am the sole supporter right now for my wife.
and I have to stay where the work is, what little there is.
I can't even afford to go to vegas as the gas money it takes can
pay a bill or 2. I did have a job in Vegas last weekend so I was able to make it back for a couple of days,to see the wife, and do the job.
I made enough to pay a couple of bills and have gas money to get back to Calif.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
"bjj,

you live W of 215 on Charleston? That's the zone I applied for a house in. Fingers crossed I get it."

I live 30 seconds from 215 at the next exit past Charleston (far hills). Absolutely love it over here. Before that, I lived 35 - 40 minutes from RR in the south part of town.

I specifically moved over here to be close to RR, for easy climbing access, and so I can go out the door on my bike. Riding in my old hood was terrifying. In the 8 months I lived there, I rode exactly twice, and was in fear for my life.

Here, it's a joy. Every road has a big shoulder / bike lane, and drivers are much more aware - since there are riders everywhere.

The full ride from my door, around the loop road and back is a total of 34 miles. Can't beat that with a stick!

Good luck with your search. There's actually a small house about 100 yards from mine with a for rent sign on the lawn. Want some pics and the number?
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Ok, let me know if you need that info. Maybe we can get together for some climbing / riding after you arrive. I just started back climbing in October after having to quit 10 years ago. Still shaking out the cobwebs and working on getting fit as fast as I can, because there's a LOT of things I want to tick before the season is over. Stuck in the 5.10 zone for now.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 15, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
WF heck, you jacking us Dwain?
"Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland."

That IS the trail to Brass Wall. Isn't there only one trail? Head towards Dark Shadows and turn right head up the hill. Are there 2 trails or a better one? Please share yer secrets and I'll buy ya a beer when I get there next:-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Couldn't find a partner for today, so rest day it is I guess..

Bruce sent me a few more pics from yesterday.

Birdland Buttress

Bruce MacDonald photo


Me following p1

Bruce MacDonald photo



Extreme close up

Bruce MacDonald photo


This party was finishing up as we approached. We met up with them in the perfect spot on the first ledge.

Bruce MacDonald photo


Yours truly racking up for p2

Bruce MacDonald photo

We didn't see any right fork, or better trail to Brass Wall, but what do we know.., noobs.. ;)
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 15, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
Yeah Buddy. Thanks for the pics Mike and Bruce.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Here's a couple from last week. Nightcrawler on the brownstone wall. Me at the belay and then following. Handren guide calls it 10c, but it felt quite stout for that grade. Pitch 3 and 4 both get that rating, but both felt harder for different reasons.

Pitch 3 starts with wide stemming with left hand in a wide crack and right hand in a finger crack. I have a lot of trouble with stems because of hip arthritis, so I had to do that part straight in on the finger crack. I know it looks like I am stemming, but that is actually a gigantic drop knee twist for a rest. I cannot spread that wide in the usual both-toes-out position.

Having to do the start of pitch 3 as a straight in / layback finger crack puts it into 5.11 territory, IMO. Luckily I was on the follow because there is no chance I could have stopped to place gear.

Later on in the pitch there is a very delicate and technical reachy move off a ledge that felt very hard.

Pitch 4 is more straight forward, but also more strenuous.

Upon reading about the route on mountain project, it seems the consensus is that 5.10d is more accurate. There's even a report that allegedly, Uriosite says it has always been 10+ this made me feel a little better about the 25 + foot whip I took off the top of pitch 4.

Anyway, this is one of the best routes I've ever done. Rock quality is superb, and the position and view are amazeballs. The only thing that lessened the experience was the burly hike. I am not a giod hiker.


Following Nightcrawler pitch 3 (5.10c)
Following Nightcrawler pitch 3 (5.10c)
Credit: bjj

At the belay of pitch 3
At the belay of pitch 3
Credit: bjj
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Wow!! That looks awesome!!!!! I need a partner on Monday if anyone is interested?? Would really love to get on some mid 10 multis??

Hoser

climber
vancouver
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Rest day already....you need to set an age limit on your partners :) Next time try trolling the campground for partners
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Come on down hoser! You are the next contestant!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Hey Hoser, are you ever negative?? Hmmm...
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
"Sweet nightcrawler pics! That one has been on the list for a while. Pro was ample when you needed it? 10+ is pushing it for me bigtime but if pro is good.... "

Pro is good. In fact, pitch 3 has 7 bolts on it and pitch 4 has 2. These days you could protect it pretty well with small cams only if you wanted. We opted not to do that...

The route is a must do, and is on my list of things I need to go back to for "revenge" down the road when my fitness is better, because the first time around didn't go super great.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Anyone who thinks I wouldn't like to get up sooner, and climb harder is severely mistaken. For me, life isn't always about personal gratification. It's about being with friends and enjoying myself! I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a d#@&%e who climbs 5.12 any day.

Maybe that means I'll never be a 5.13 climber, but if being an a$$hole is what it takes, I'm not interested.
WTF

climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
Big mike your spot on bud

this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 15, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
No matter the rating it's all fun.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Thanks guys :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 15, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a d#@&%e who climbs 5.12 any day.

You don't want to climb with me? ;)))
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Moose, you don't seem that bad ;) I'd love to climb with you! I'm totally going to make minden happen at some point this year! Looking forward to it! ;)
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 15, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
"I would rather climb 5.6 with a good friend I trust and respect than a d#@&%e who climbs 5.12 any day."


I like you more all the time, Mike.
Dammit I wish I was there to climb with you.

I just got a call from my wife in Vegas.
fuk, the water heater just burst and the trailer got a little flooded.
Looks like I'll have to stay in apple valley for a couple of months
so I can save up the money above our regular expenses to get a new water heater
It's a bummer this is my slow season for window washing.

I may have to go down to Circle K and sell myself.

:)

I'd be going crazy right now if it wasn't for my sense of humor.


Bjj;
I'll go climbing with you whenever I can get back to Vegas.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Bummer Dwain!! That really sucks dude. I hope your luck turns soon! Just a little bump in the road. Your karma will have you back on track in no time I'm sure.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Feb 15, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
Hey all I said was wake the yeti hunter up a little earlier than noon, anyways I wish you well in increasing your $$ to climb time ratio.

Wasnt meant as a dis

I will be down after finals
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 15, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
Oh well, Mike, I've learned over the years to roll with the punches.
I sure need to get out and climb to get my head back together,
climbing sure relieves stress for me.
sure wish you and bruce could make it down here for a day
as a stress reliever.

:)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
Me too Dwain. Me too.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Sh!tty Wml!!
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Feb 15, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
I would also recommend:

Lotta Balls - Short and fun
Frogland - Absolutely fantastic
Yellow Brick Road Var. - This is a harder (relative) variation off of Dream of the Wild Turkeys that doesn't get done as much as either neighbors and offers cool views of Price of Darkness if other climbers are on it.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine
Feb 15, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Hold out Weston, you're the one who has to live with the deal.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Ya!!! Sick Weston!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 15, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
That's awesome man ! The times I've been to Red Rocks were extra good if we got to Calico Basin. Such a different feel and vibe compared to suburban Vegas.
WTF

climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
WML you whining c#&% why dont you just lie to them like you did to the people who gave you that job.

A lie is a lie guy and while not a big one it speaks volumes of your character.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 15, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Picking up Mike tonight at 730 to go hit the town...party time!

Tomorrow, hot climbing action-action-action. Thinking Geronimo so my gal can go too. Woot!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
Sweet!! Super stoked! Hotdogharry might join us tonight too!
WTF

climber
Feb 15, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
WML

R you saying that you did not post here on ST that upon getting your job in vegas that you right here admitted to us you told them you lived in vegas but in reality you lived in Reno? You either deleted that post or I cant find it.





Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 17, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Last night was a blast with Chrsitina, Mike, Harry and I hitting Frankies Tiki Hut and then off to the Three Angry Wives for late night food.

We just got home from doing Geronimo and then some awesome sushi. Pics coming soon, it was a stellar day.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Sushi was awesome! Very high end. Well chosen Christina!!
Geronimo was super fun today!!

Here's one from Frankie's Tiki Room last night.


HarryHotDog on the left, Vegasclimber and his lovely fiancÚ Christina on the right.

Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:00am PT
As promised, some shots of our awesome day today. I'm sure Mike and Bruce will add more when they get the chance!


Setting up at the base after a stiff hike in.
Setting up at the base after a stiff hike in.
Credit: Vegasclimber

Big Mike on belay duty with Christina relaxing.
Big Mike on belay duty with Christina relaxing.
Credit: Vegasclimber

Bruce on P1, the Rope Eater pitch...watch this one on the descent.
Bruce on P1, the Rope Eater pitch...watch this one on the descent.
Credit: Vegasclimber

Mike at the summit.
Mike at the summit.
Credit: Vegasclimber

Christina digging the top of P3's exposure. This was her first exposed...
Christina digging the top of P3's exposure. This was her first exposed multi, and not only was she having a blast, she was knocking off 180ft pitches in great time!
Credit: Vegasclimber

Summit shot of Mike
Summit shot of Mike
Credit: Vegasclimber

Summit shot of Bruce as the shadows take over Red Rock
Summit shot of Bruce as the shadows take over Red Rock
Credit: Vegasclimber

Christina and Mike, happy to be on the top of Geronimo
Christina and Mike, happy to be on the top of Geronimo
Credit: Vegasclimber

Christina was really digging the exposure - I'm proud of her. She took...
Christina was really digging the exposure - I'm proud of her. She took this looking over the rap route.
Credit: Christina Zila

Getting dark and getting ready to get off this thing!
Getting dark and getting ready to get off this thing!
Credit: Big Mike
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:02am PT
I don't know what yer drinking but you should be swilling this...
Credit: Relic
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:12am PT
Looks like you were "warmed by the sun, rocked by the wind and sheltered by the trees"
on that particular climb. Great meeting you all last night.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 17, 2013 - 03:42am PT
You guys are killing it! Wish I coulda made it down but it's great to see you all havin a blast, relic what's up?

How u like that sandstone Mikey? Be sure to go clip some bolts one day, whole different ball game on that awesome rock! I think RR is one of my favorite areas.



Fear & Loathing
Fear & Loathing
Credit: RyanD
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 17, 2013 - 09:32am PT
Jublient Song is a classic 5.7/ 5.8ish, but it is a long approach, and a tricky walk off in the dark. Get up early to check this one out.

Prod.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 01:18pm PT

Ryan I love sandstone! So cool! Amazing holds everywhere! You say they have bolts here?? ;)

Prod- thanks for the reco. Hopefully we can get out that way.


I took a few pics yesterday.... Alright, more than a few. ;)

The gang on the approach




Just another beautiful day in paradise




Watch out for these jumping cactus! Travis says they're nasty.





I'm still impressed with this pano feature on my phone.




Bruce sending p1 of Geronimo 5.6




Bringing up the gang.





Looking back at the loop road




My lead. P2





How do I let Bruce get all the money pitches??? P3




Almost there!




The view from the top




What a view it is!



Cloud tower and Rainbow wall




Pose down on p4




Cloud tower looks rad!!



Close up



Vegasclimber on p4



And his lovely fiancÚ Christina




Starting to get a bit dark out...




Bruce setting up the first rap




Good thing Travis called for a late exit!!



Red Rocks sunset.



Another sick day!!
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 17, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Nice pics as always Mike. I agree with Ryan, go clip some steep bolts!
gf

climber
Feb 17, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
Mike, pay the peanut gallery no heed -many of those bolted routes fit the jim bridwell definition of sport climbing as being a akin to sport copulating - a lot of fun and not a lot of commitment. Those longer routes deliver great adventures, but if you want to mix the two, I recommend rock warrior -it delivers the gear dick, multiple pitches and some sport climbing to boot!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 17, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 17, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Steep climbing is an adventure within itself. I third the suggestion. Enjoy the movements whichever you choose.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 17, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
"Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?"


Haha, nice! I've been thinking of hooking up your route, Mystre Z to get to Brownstone wall for a few of those sweet looking routes up there next time down. I've been running @ 9 hours to car to car Epinephrine last couple times. Phil, is that a reasonable thing to be able to get done without needing a headlamp?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 17, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
DAMMIT!!!!!
I'm stuck here in Apple Valley,
and I want to climb so bad.

With work so slow my wife not finding a job, and me needing to be here in Calif in case jobs come up, It looks like I won't be getting back to Vegas to see my wife or do any climbing for the next couple of months.

:(

I'm getting depressed pretty fast.

GREAT pics Big Mike, Travis and Bmacd
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 17, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
Couchmaster if you are doing Epi car to car in 9 hours then a MysterZ Brownstone wall should be a cruise. In fact I would wager that climbing MysterZ would be faster than the hike up tp the Brownstone Wall. Have you climbed Armatron yet?
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 17, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
No Phil, I've never done ir or even seen a picture till now. it was the photo up thread of Armatron which had me all but losing it. WOW. IT MUST BE CLIMMMMMEEDDDDD!!!! Damn that's good looking rock!!! Wow! I love puzzles like that, blocks of rock where you have to think on where your stance's and pro will be.

Part of the problem is that there is so much to climb at Red Rocks and it's all so damned good. My buddy has wanted to drag me up to Brownstone but the problem is that I always seem to climb off the couch in winter here where nothing but rain is happening and I'm old and out of shape and head down there. Thus I want to minimize my hiking and maximize my climbing. So I look for long routes with less hiking. Some of those upper gullys are ##XX$$!!! Anyway, buddy has fixed it in his mind that he doesn't want to repeat routes, and wants to climb only new ones. But when you are all creaky and out of shape, you want to do a long lap on an old fave to get the head back on straight. So we usually compromise. We start on what I want and then start in on some strange to make him happy....hmmm, that doesn't sound quite right given the hookers and blow comment....:-)

Last year some friends did the long 10c/d up there and raved about it, so that, Armatron and the Black Dagger are all up there waiting to be done (never been to Brownstone wall), and I was hoping to climb up there and noticed that another had recommended one of your routes to do it so I thought I'd just step up and ask the man hisself. You've don't some sweet and kick ass Fa's there. Good stuff. Thanks for the push. I hope to get down there maybe in October or Nov. Short days of course, but thats when I'm usually there, the weather start to go to crap here and it's so sweet down there. It's a rare day we don't get in at least a thousand feet of climbing. mmmmMMhhh!

Dogfathers photo of Armatron, WOW!!!



he said "Armatron. You get almost 3 full pitches of this type of amazing rock."

I'm enchanted.....wow.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 18, 2013 - 12:17am PT
I was last man on the final rap by headlamp. Have not done a party of four in a long time. No stuck ropes on the raps made this day a success. Am I ever fat again.... Photo shoot with Cinnamon at dawn tomorrow on horseback. Wish I was here for another month or two to shed thirty pounds. Climbed with the hairyhotdog today. This place is too much fun!

Looking forward to being fit enough to repeat some of Philo's routes here.
greyghost

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Feb 18, 2013 - 12:56am PT
Rain Tuesday and Wednesday. Plan accordingly.

if it's heavy in the canyons that will shut you down Thursday and Friday.

It's possible to climb local limestone crags or go to the Keyhole granite.

Rodeo Wall has SE exposure
Gun Club has bees

Hole in the wall Mexican place at Jones and Charleston
La Compita
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 18, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Just keep sweating Bruce.

You are all having fun and struggling around at the same time. That's a good plan for body shrinkage. Keep on having a good time and good things will happen...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:26am PT

Mike, pay the peanut gallery no heed -many of those bolted routes fit the jim bridwell definition of sport climbing as being a akin to sport copulating - a lot of fun and not a lot of commitment.

Greg, you'll be proud. I stuck my neck out today on a traditionally bolted route. More commitment and excitement on an 80 foot route than I've experienced all trip!


Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?

What!! They have hookers and gambling here???? DAMN!! What am I doing???? ;)


Philo I wanted to do MysterZ just to say I climbed a Philo route!! Alas.. Next time.

I'm getting depressed pretty fast.

Chin up Cosmic. Get your life back on track and heal up your body. Call me when you're ready and i'll get down here again to go send!

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 04:02am PT
Bruce sent me a few more shots from yesterday.

Me belaying two people up to save time on top of Geronimo p2

Bruce MacDonald photo

Christina on the p1 ledge.

Bruce MacDonald photo

Me following p3

Bruce MacDonald photo

Travis at the p3 belay.

Bruce MacDonald photo


You are all having fun and struggling around at the same time. That's a good plan for body shrinkage. Keep on having a good time and good things will happen...

I have no idea how Bruce does it! I didn't have any food left at the condo for dinner tonight, and Bruce didn't want to go anywhere so he shared his last low cal microwave dinner with me. It was good but I was starving an hour later. Thankfully In-n-Out was just a brisk walk away so I could get some calories into this frame.

We went to Calico Basin again today and met up with Harry. We had our sights on Physical Grafitti and that nice new bolted 5.9 but two parties beat us to it and proceeded to stand around, doing nothing. I shoulda just thrown the rope down, racked up and asked if they minded if we played through since they were taking their sweet time, but I'm just too damn nice for my own good sometimes...

We decided to go check out Cannibal Crag instead. When we got down there the northeast face was swamped with people so we went around the northwest.

No one was on Cannibal Crack 5.4 so I warmed up on that. We had the big gear for PG so I felt quite comfortable on it. Harry walked it and I got him to leave the anchor because I wanted to onsight Caliban 5.8+.

Caliban 5.8+


It looked pretty darn runout but I was confident I could do it. I took one small friend with me too, just in case.

I got the first bolt clipped and made the awkward move to the first stance on the right. I let out a "holy fvck!" and Harry said "ya I wasn't going to say anything".... Looking up at the second bolt wasn't exactly comforting.

I put my head down and made every move, slow and precise. The holds were rounded and insecure. Before long I was at the second bolt. The third was still a long way away.

I got a small friend in a nice horizontal and got the third bolt clipped. The final slab wasn't easy either and I really wished I had brought a #1 Camalot also, but couldn't do anything about it now!

I made it to the anchor but not without puckering my sphincter a bit!!! Bruce couldn't even look. Harry said I made it look good but it sure got the adrenaline rushing!!


After we went to the northeast side and climbed all the mellow clip ups there. Each and every one of them felt easier then Caliban!!

It was another beautiful day and Harry and I had a great time. Bruce just chilled, wanting to be fresh for tomorrow.

I took this shot of them in the lot.



Bruce has a photo shoot at 4:30am so the morning is pretty much a write off. I'm hoping to get out and pump myself out on some 10+ clip ups in the afternoon.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 18, 2013 - 09:44am PT
BigMike and Vegasclimber thanks for sharinggreat pics of an obviously great time.


MysterZ is one of three new routes that Jimmy Newberry and I established on a trip in 2003. In each case we were trying to follow the poor and misleading info in Swain's guide. Instead of finding the existing climbs we ended up putting up new ones. Oh well Cest la vie, C'est la guerre.

MysterZ is an excellent way to approach the Brownstone Wall. It is a fun and varied route and I would heartily recommend it. Of all the routes I have been involved with establishing at Red Rock MysterZ ia by far the easiest and least committing while still being a good day out.


For those interested here is a topo for it .
photo not found
Missing photo ID#290245


Now, about those hookers and gambling.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:02am PT
You guys certainly seem to know how to keep the fun meter maxed out!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:19am PT
he has a photo shoot.....?

Damn! That Sasquatch stuff is starting to pay off in silver dollars huh?

Remember to go do Eagle dance - its over bolted, super easy and really scenic. Alternately, if you want a super short approach to a shady route, Fridgidaire Buttress is really good
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:23am PT
That caliban picture is badass. Sounds like a good lead too.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Couchmaster, the upper pitches of Armatron are amazing. It's like God's own master mason built it for maximum climbing pleasure. But just a note, don't take P.2 for granted. The crux is short but just a wee bit slick and tricksy.
MH2

climber
Feb 18, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Great thread!! I don't know why the title got lost somewhere between my eye and brain until this morning when I happened to catch the author's name.

Good to see all the advice, activity, and scenery. I think I have a photo of the same cactus Big Mike showed on the way to the Red Book.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Remember to go do Eagle dance

I Wish!! The photo shoot killed Bruce this morning. As I expected. It's supposed to rain around 4 tomorrow so we might have time for something short if yeti hunter can get out of bed.

Still hoping to get pumped out on some clip ups this afternoon..... Fvck. I should just throw the 7.5 on my back, steal the car and go solo!!!!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 18, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Yes, yes you should.

There's some really fun bouldering out at Willow Springs too. I sent harder than I ever thought possible on the blocs there. It was a V6, which for me is pretty incredible

Go party on the rock dude.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 18, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
"Couchmaster, the upper pitches of Armatron are amazing. It's like God's own master mason built it for maximum climbing pleasure. But just a note, don't take P.2 for granted. The crux is short but just a wee bit slick and tricksy."

Thanks Phil. Wish I was there right now climbing in the warm sun. Went hiking with the wife instead of climbing yesterday, colder than it should have been and windy. Saw 4 Eagles.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Thanks for adding those shots Mike! Tell Bruce thanks for taking them.

You could always head out to Calico Basin and Kraft Boulders, you're sure to find many Pad People there...
thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
A few more shots of Armatron
Credit: thedogfather
Credit: thedogfather
Credit: thedogfather
Credit: thedogfather
Credit: thedogfather

Upper pitches are really unique too.
Credit: thedogfather
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Awesome pics guys, looks like a fun time fo sho!!!
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Feb 18, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Hail a cab on the strip, ask for some adderall, stick that in his Jenny Craig meals and get ready to climb
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
Lol... Hahahaha!! Ya totally!! :)

We got out for some "sport climbing" as planned. I know it's neither, but it sure can get the pump going real quick. We went to The Black Corridor because it had the highest concentration of ten + clip ups I could find in the guide. It was pretty busy, but apparently that was quiet compared to yesterday.

I ran up a couple 5.9's on the left side, both were fun and then hit Vagabonds 10a which was fun. I liked the look of Crude Boys 10d so I saddled up. It took me a couple minutes to figure out the crux, I got my hands on the flake jug and my feet cut loose. I really didn't want the thing to break off on me, and it stayed put as I pulled through.

I set up a top rope on Black Corridor #4 11a, because it looked pretty tough. I was glad I did because I couldn't pull the crux to save my hide. I pumped out after quite a few tries and batmanned through it to take it down. My hands are still pumped! Gotta love getting 5 pitches in under 3 hours!

Bruce in The Black Corridor



Red Rocks
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
Nice one big mike! Nothin wrong with sport climbing, especially in sin city. Lap out while you can, nothin but clouds, showers & minimal accumulations await you back home.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
Glad to see you both got out.Yah in my mind climbing comes in all forms, Enjoy them all and with that 6 foot 7" frame you'll never need a stick-clip!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Well I sure out did my self this morning, and am I ever in Cinnamon's good books this year. The Lady Godiva ride went off without a hitch at dawn. I got the money shot and we've made plans to hit the Gun Shop after climbing tomorrow to break in her new Glock and practice up on the home invasion defence scenarios. After the recent attempted break in at her place the police whom attended advised her to buy a gun.

Now all I have to do is get out of bed for a climb like I can get out of bed for a woman. Hmmm that sounds weird...

She says biz at the strip club is booming, and I believe that this kind of discretionary spending is a leading economic indicator that the USA economy has turned the corner and the recession is behind us.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
I can't understand why people think Red Rock is the 'Be all, End all' of Vegas area climbing ?
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Because I hate limestone

Oh ya I also saw a large daylight meteor over Las Vegas this morning at sunrise
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:06am PT
"I can't understand why people think Red Rock is the 'Be all, End all' of Vegas area climbing ?"

Interesting comment from someone who has a picture labeled "Red rocks bliss"
It's true not all the climbing is on exellent rock but the etheral middle earth landscape of the canyons makes the area a pretty special place in my eyes!

Do we get to see the bunny, I mean money shot, Bruce?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:12am PT
Go 103 miles NE and climb some good Basalt cliffs with a 10 second approach.

Or...
:)
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Joanne took this picture about 5 years ago on our approach to the Brownstone Wall to do Armatron.
If you look at the top of the pic you will see a healthy heard of the desert bighorns that add a magic to the experience.
Credit: philo
They seemed fairly unperturbed by our passage and presence. In fact they hung out with us all day basking in the sun on the slab below Armatron. They and us were the only souls there that day.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Wow! Those Armatron shots are amazing!! Ryand you gotta come back here with me so we can go slay some killer trad routes!!!

Thanks for the bighorn shot Philo! Very cool!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Philo,

Is that really a Bighorn in your picture, or are you just happy to see us ?
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:17am PT
Harry I already got banned once from supertopical on Cinnamon's accord. Check my Facebook page for images ....

Philo, that's incredible!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:44am PT
Bruce asked me to put this shot up from the mornings activities.




From left to right.
Bmacd, Shilah, Shilah's Daddy, Cinnamon
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Wow. Up at atom already? It must be a miracle!! Just about to jump in the car.

See you guys on the flip side!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 19, 2013 - 11:21am PT
The pics are beautiful.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 19, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Nice shot Phil. This herd was off the trail @ 20 feet. Saw them on the other side of the canyon and to my amusement, watched LOTS of tourists walk by on the trail oblivious to their presence. Finally I wandered over to see how well cammoed they were and got this shot from @ 25 feet.



I thought that it was interesting and amusing to encounter a herd hanging out on the final 5.3 pitch of some long route down there. Strong climbers those sheep.

BTW, little note. Last time I was down there in May with my son, I took him up to the limestone area NW of Vegas. Leading what should have been a popular route (5.10a, bolted, easy access) I got nailed in the finger by a scorpion. More painful and longer lasting effects than the scorpions around here. Fortunately it was the last day. Great place to head when it's warm below as it's situated at the 8000 foot level or so.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 19, 2013 - 11:43am PT
Wow Couchmaster that is an excellent shot and a great encounter.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 19, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Hey Mike, are those ghosts in the skyline in your first shot on this page?
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Spooky.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
Brandon- ya HDR ghosts. My iPhone app takes two pics, one light one dark and then combines them. So sometimes moving objects get ghosted. Hence the climber lowering in the background or two Bruce's on the trail to Birdland.

Just got back from Cat in the Hat choose your own adventure style!! So sick! More in a bit.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Hey Mike, are those ghosts in the skyline in your first shot on this page?

Foreshadowing, dude. I'm going to be there in two weeks, but ectoplasmically speaking, some of me is already there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 12:37am PT
I got up at 6:30am to find the Yeti Hunter already up and about!! Needless to say, I was stoked! The plan for the day was to run up The Cat In The Hat 5.6.

We got to the Pine Creek parking lot just before nine and there was already another party racking up in the parking lot. I asked them what they were planning on, and they said "Cat". I replied "same" and told Bruce "we have to go now!"

We threw the bags on and ran out if the parking lot. I set a fast pace as per usual and was surprised to see Bruce was right on my tail the whole way. Bruce picked the right approach trail which seems to be my weakness in this desert and we were very happy to find that we were the first party to get to the base.

We racked up quickly and as soon as I jumped on the first pitch, I heard voices coming up the trail. I made quick work of the first pitch but got a little confused when I got to the upper ledge and could not find the station. It turns out that I wasn't supposed to climb the squeeze chimney on the left, so after a bit of wandering around I decided to set up a gear belay in a nice crack just above the chimney.
This was variation #1.

I brought Bruce up and he was a little perturbed that I had flubbed the station and said "where are you??"

I told him I was on a gear anchor to which he replied, "Is it any good??"
It's bomber I said but he didn't even bother to check it out, or grab the gear, or the tag line and just kept on truckin'.

He scrambled up the next short corner and stopped at the tree above the second rap anchor. I piled the tag line and all the gear on my shoulders and had the anchor mostly dismantled by the time he had me on belay.

He took this shot when I got to the tree.

Bruce MacDonald Photo

After another quick start I wanted to go up the nice crack beside the tree but Bruce said "I think that's the second pitch of the grinch?" Go check around the corner. I went right and started climbing the next flake and Bruce said "I don't think it's that one either! Go check around the next corner!" I shoulda just told him to shut up and kept climbing but after my routefinding mistake on the first pitch I guess I was open to suggestions.

I climbed up the ramp to the top of the Cookie Monster 5.7 pitch and the corner above looked pretty mellow so I started to cast off. Just then a guy rocked up behind me and asked if this was Cat in the Hat. I said "I don't know dude... I hope so!" He asked if he could anchor on the ledge beneath me which I had no problem with and I proceeded up the corner.

About 10 feet up I stepped on a horn that I obviously shouldn't have and it snapped under my weight. I had two good hands and a great left foot, so I managed to stay on, but I screamed "Rock!!!" at the top of my lungs. Then Simon screamed it three times, because his girlfriend was directly below me! Luckily she managed to get out of the way.

I continued up the corner but because Bruce was down the ramp and the rope was wrapped around the aret the rope drag was horrendous!! I slung everything long just trying not to make it worse. I got to a small ledge but didn't see anything really good to anchor to (total tunnel vision on my part) so I continued up to a half decent stance to what I found out later was halfway up the fifth pitch. I called down to ask how much rope left and Bruce said "40 feet!".

I was pretty damn sure that I wouldn't be able to finish the pitch on that amount of rope and this was definetly the last half decent stance so I built another bomber gear belay and brought Bruce up. When he arrived I told him I wasn't sure if he really wanted to hang out there, but there was a bolted anchor on top of the pedestal to my right. He chose to climb up the chimney and use the C11 H17NO3 anchor as his belay. After sending over the tag line so he could manage it for me and getting some draws back he took this pic of me.

Variation #2


Bruce MacDonald photo

Unfortunately the manual focus button got hit and he didn't realize it.


The end result of all this was I got to lead the last pitch too!! BONUS!!!!
It was money!!

I cruised the pitch and clipped my first bolt of the day on the little slabby runout at the end. What a great pitch! I got to the top and exclaimed, "hey there IS fixed anchors on this thing!!" ;)

I took a couple snaps of Bruce on the last pitch.


















I also got a couple of Simon the nice gentleman who's girlfriend I nearly snuffed....







Bruce chillin at the top






Bruce got these summit shots of me and Simon

It was a bit windy up there....

Bruce MacDonald Photo


Bruce MacDonald Photo

We decide to rappel together since it would be faster. It sure was with four ropes! We rapped to the capstone which I never even saw on the way up and the party that we had passed in the parking lot in the morning was freezing their butt off there. Somehow they had allowed another party to pass them as well!

Everything went extremely smoothly which was nice and I got these shots when I got to the tree rap.


Yet another party



South face of Mescalito




We all got down safe and we beat the forecasted rain!!

I took this shot of Mescalito on the way out.




A celebratory Vanilla Coke in the parking lot post send.

Bruce MacDonald photo

What a day!! I ended up leading nearly the whole thing and had quite the adventure to boot!

I looked up the corner I climbed in the book, but no mention?? Surely someone must have climbed it before me?? It's right above Cookie Monster??? I dubbed it the "Big Mike variation" anyways and it goes at 5.6 too. It was actually quite fun!!!

I'm pretty bagged now, which I am quite pleased about!!! If only it weren't going to rain tomorrow and me and Harry could get on another long route!!!






Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 20, 2013 - 02:01am PT
Sounds like a sick day! Sorry we missed it - I was so fried when I got home from work that I forgot to call you guys, my bad - tell Bruce I said have a good flight!

Interesting variation there...I couldn't tell but it looks like you might have missed the traverse off the top of P4...too bad that's a blast. Glad you made it to the right top in the end and had a great time, that's what it's about!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 02:44am PT
Ya we missed that traverse for sure dude. No worries about the call, we were pretty bagged too.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
Just put yeti hunter on a plane. Currently stuck at fox car rental again.. Doh!!
bc

climber
Prescott, AZ
Feb 20, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
I'm curious Vegasclimber. Is there still a small metal container at the top of Geronimo? We put up that route in honor of a good friend and left the box attached to a bolt. It had some info about him in it. And as a coincidence his daughter is named Christina. Looks like you're having a good time on it. Bill

edit: have you tried Purblind Pillar? Fun route.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 20, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Box not there, congratulations on bagging a classic route though.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 20, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Hi, Bill! You and Michelle had your route glasses on that day for sure - I would have never spotted the line.

I haven't seen a box up there either time - is it somewhere that would be clearly visible?

Would love to hear more about your friend and the FA if you would care to share.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Feb 20, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Wicked finish!
LaurieLighthouse

Sport climber
Belgium
Feb 20, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Vegas baby!...And so it will in a week, for maid of honour reasons.

As many people have told me about the "If in Vegas go to Red Rocks", I'm outstaying the wedding parties etc, and am completely free to go climbing between 5th and 9th, flight back to Europe on the 10th. Anyone around, willing, and without regular jobs that tie them up on weekdays...? As in please come climb with me!!

And I'm in no way fixated on Red Rocks.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 20, 2013 - 03:35pm PT


Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Hahaha!! Lol!! Too funny! Thanks cosmic! I'm staying with Harry tonight and we went to Excalibur for lunch with his family.




I don't fly out till 7 tomorrow night, so I'm still hoping to get a few routes in tomorrow. What's the limestone beta?? Where do I find it?

Edit
Would love to hear more about your friend and the FA if you would care to share.

Ditto!!
bc

climber
Prescott, AZ
Feb 20, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Vegasclimber, The route is named after a fine gentleman, Maxi Gonzales. He was a friend of my father-in-law and part of a father/daughter Indian Princess Guides club my wife took part in as a young girl. Maxi's Indian name in the group was Geronimo. He was very much like an uncle. Sadly, he got cancer and died way too young and we decided to name a route in his honor. I'd spied the line on an earlier trip, so my wife and I did the route and later invited his son to climb it. It was his first rock climb and he did great! The whole family watched from the nearest parking lot. The memorial box we left was wired to a lone bolt I put on top of the final pitch. It turned out to be a decent line with nice exposure. We rapped down a rope eating chimney to the climber's right I think and not getting your rope caught became a major crux of a Geronimo outing. I heard a rap line is place now. Bill
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Feb 20, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Bill,
Thank you for the background on Maxi Gonzales and Geronimo. I didn't see the memorial box last year. We really enjoyed the route and we went down the "rope eating chimney" successfully. A guided group that were behind us used an alternate rappel and they did have a stuck rope....
Erik
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 20, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
Bill, thanks for sharing that with us. That gives the climb a whole new meaning for me, very appreciated.

I was hoping that maybe you had placed the box in an out of the way place on the summit so that it wouldn't be disturbed, but I guess that wasn't the case. Kind of a shame that it appears to be gone.

There is a rap line down the route now, but stuck ropes are still a high possibility. The top and second rap stations would probably be better if there were chains that extended over the lip, rather then the rats nest of tat on the bolts now. I cut some of the tat off the other day, and will clean up more the next time we get up there.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 20, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
That's one of the coolest aspects of Vegas - there are still lifetimes of FAs to be done.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
next time you come down you have a partner in me for sure...

Stoked on that Weston!!

That's one of the coolest aspects of Vegas - there are still lifetimes of FAs to be done.

Heck ya!! Too cool!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 12:23am PT
How much rain is considered too wet to climb? We got about .1 inches today at the airport. Any guesses??
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 01:17am PT
Sick link Weston! Thanks! No precip at the visitor center, calico basin hopefully should be dry!!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:18am PT
The Mescalito adventure climbed like mountaineering trip to the top rap station, and we thoughtfully alleviated crowding on the standard route by choosing an alternate path to the top of the 5th, back at the parking lot by 3:30. Meeting a competent young guy on top who really helped with getting the raps done quickly as a team of four was icing on the cake. The rope pulls on the Geronimo raps were the crux, I insisted on doing them all as it was my rope. Great Red Book was cool ... Birdland and more next time.

Great place, fun times and good climbing. Hopefully feel good enough to climb harder the next time. I've been fighting some sort of bug the whole trip, going to see my GP about it tomorrow. I am now home in one piece, and thank you, to you Mike for being a great climbing partner ...

Sandstone and strippers, that's my kind of Vegas !

Vegas !
Vegas !
Credit: bmacd

Adios Amigos !

Edit: I lost ten pounds in ten days in RR
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:46am PT
WML;
Once you move to Vegas, and I am around, I'll take you to a cool place
NE of Vegas where there is some very good Basalt.
The 10 second APPROACH can be Horrendous tho.

:)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 01:50am PT

Good to hear you made it home Bruce! It has been an excellent trip indeed. It certainly never would have happened without you!! Thanks for all the tips and tricks and for putting up with my new fangled way of doing things. ;)

I'll see you tomorrow night!!

Weston, very good info. Considering how close calico is to the visitor center it should be close I hope.

Cosmic is that basalt place you speak of those pics that you posted on my crack thread awhile back??
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:55am PT
Yes WML.
It's a cool little canyon

and Yes, Big Mike.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 02:01am PT
If we have extra time tomorrow The Fox is on the list. If not ill just have to come back and do it with you!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:01am PT
They even got Crawdads in the little creek that runs thru Rainbow canyon.

YUMMMMMMMM
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Rainbow looks sick!! I'm so coming back...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 02:34am PT
No way I'm going to ruin that onsight with a tr!! Looks too money!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 09:12am PT
Alpine start!!!! Whut??? ;)
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
If any of you neer-do-wells need a partner over the next week, let me know. My usual partner is out of town for a while. I live 5 minutes away, and don't have much to do most of the time. Yes, cry for me.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Right now it's getting dark 5-ish, WML.

That's one of the coolest aspects of Vegas - there are still lifetimes of FAs to be done.

Another cool aspect is that fact that in a lot of cases, I can pick up the phone and talk to the FA parties on many routes. Love that!
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
I havn't climbed at eagle wall, but I have been in the vacinity once or twice. Both Eagle dance and Levitation are on the slate for sometime in the next few weeks. The crux is the hike (and the walk offs)!

It's starting to get dark around 5, with headlamps needed around 5:20 I'd say.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
I'm fairly sure we'll solo / scramble our way up the shortcut.
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Good looking trip Mike, now get back to whistler and do some goat sacrifices to bring some snow.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
I guess the long way is a slog if your a regular who has spent many a day approaching the longer routes but as a visitor my memory of that longer approach to Eagle wall was one of awe.The complex gullies full of beautiful plant life so different than the desert combined with the route finding made for a magical experience.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Harry and I snuck out of the house at 6am this morning. I was psyched!!

Alpineish start



I finally got my chance to hit up Roberto's so breakfast burrito it was!!



My first Vegas sunrise of the trip.



After dropping off a coffee for Harry's wife, we headed to Calico Basin



It was a bit chilly but we were dressed for it. There wasn't a soul there! Perfect.

The first route on our plate was Physical Graffiti 5.6



I had to teach Harry how to play rock, paper, scissors and he still won first pitch!! ;)


What a cool route!!






I got the second pitch which was money!!! Jamming and toe camming all the way!!!!

Harry at the top





We only had Harry's 60m and it was just enough for me to set up the gear belay. Just!!!


The classic Vegas background shot!



The cave gear belay



We had to tag the summit.
















Loop road pano




Obligatory summit team photo




The left walk off



Then we did Big Bad Wolf 5.9








I was loving the holds. It was rad!!


We did it in two pitches. Definetly the way to go.



Harry coiling the rope



We went and looked at the fox but I pussed out because I only had one #4 and one #5


Looks rad!! Next time for sure.


Looking up at Riding Hood wall (pg and bbw)




Cannibal crag and Kraft mountain



What a gorgeous day!!!



Gotta go jump on a plane!!! Peace out Vegas!!! We will return!!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 06:32pm PT

Good looking trip Mike, now get back to whistler and do some goat sacrifices to bring some snow.

No need Justin, Ullr is happy I'm home.


Thanks Weston!! Stoked to climb with you when I come back..
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
awesome trip mike! Thanks for all the photos & updates, sounded like a real productive trip. Was hoping u would bring the sun home but I'll take this if it keeps up!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks Ryan. I'm always hoping for snow instead of sun in the winter ;)
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
Hey Mike, you finally got the money pitch (P2 on PG)

Was a blast to climb with you and Bruce. Thanks for the great pics, and a great TR. Come back again sometime soon!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 23, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Well our holiday down in Vegas has been great,the people down here are real friendly. It was great to finally meet Big Mike. Then we met the other Big Mike at the 4D Sponge Bob movie, he bought my kids popcorn and cotton candy. Although I hate cotton candy I wasn't about to argue with him!!!
Credit: harryhotdog
Here's Mike after he kicked my 6 year old out of his recliner, what a bully!
Credit: harryhotdog
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 23, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
This has been a very very fun "live, we are there" trip report. Thanks for taking the time to do all the pics and fun narratives. Looked forward to it every day.

Susan
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Hey Mike, you finally got the money pitch (P2 on PG)

Ya I did!! 58m of jamming beauty!! Great to meet you dude. Next time you better get some time off so we can go send crimson!!

Harry!! Mike Tyson?? Too cool!! It was great to meet you too dude. We have to find you a sitter a couple days this summer so we can do some chief laps!

Thanks Susan. Considering all the beta and opportunities it opened up, It was well worth the effort!

Weston, if I got the chance I would have ate there all the time!! I only got the opportunity to sample their breakfast burrito!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Rob-squirt- ohhhhhhhh's
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Mike Tyson....that's badass, just took this live TR to the next level. Guess It's not live anymore but still lives. Thanks to all that contributed to this TR. Always good to see some climbing pics.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
Sweet trip Mike! Thanks for sharing. Makes me want to get out there
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:44am PT
Yeah Briham!! Go check it out!!

Took this shot on the way out.

City of Lights
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 24, 2013 - 02:34am PT
Harry Kettmann and his kids chill with Mike Tyson...

This is surprising ? Harry can make any scene, ...better !
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 03:39am PT
Harry rules! I was very impressed, especially with his attitude despite the lack of rope time lately. I would tie in with him anytime!!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 24, 2013 - 03:45am PT
Harry offers the coolest time and best experience any one could ask for.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 24, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
No Kidding - Harry is almost neighbours with Mike Tyson and has a killer pad I rented off of him last year for 3 months - it's a great place for rock and roll yoga parties

This is the Starbucks Patio adjacent to Robertos ( at the back of ...
This is the Starbucks Patio adjacent to Robertos ( at the back of the photo) near Harrys place - awesome rest day hang ....
Credit: bmacd

Harry soloed NF of Viennese ... thats hardcore - Grade V 5.10a
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 24, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
It was great climbing with you Mike and actually being part of one of your real time TR's. Great to see Bruce down here and meet Travis(Vegas climber) and Christina. Next year you should come down Jim B and enjoy this fine place. Here are a few pics I took of El Grande. Here he is about to ingest a 4.2Ib breakfast burrito into his 6' 7" frame.
Credit: harryhotdog
. Here is is in action, just look at the concentration as he composes his next shot
Credit: harryhotdog
Here he is again with a face only a mother could love, I mean we all love
Credit: harryhotdog
Can't wait to get out again but unfortunately that won't be for a while as we prepare for my wife's bone marrow transplant on March 20th.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 26, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
Red Rocks FEB 26 2013

Red Rocks from my hotel room @ the JW Marriott morning of FEB 26 2013....
Red Rocks from my hotel room @ the JW Marriott morning of FEB 26 2013.... too bad I'm attending a conference. But what a great view!
Credit: Gunkie
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:57am PT
I'll be at another conference in Las Vegas April 5-11 (NAB). I hope to have either or both April 6 or 7 (SAT/SUN) if things go well with demo setup.

If I get myself out to Red Rocks, is it difficult to find a partner? Is there decent bouldering? Guide services? I've never been there before.

The decision on what I'm doing will be a game time decision; it will literally be a decision made the evening prior to going out there. Maybe I'll just go bouldering and hiking....
10b4me

Boulder climber
Lost
Mar 9, 2013 - 11:01am PT
^^^ go to the local climbing gym(by Desert Rock Sports), and ask around
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 11:05am PT
Wow! How did I miss these?? Oh wait. Guess it's been a rough couple weeks ;)

Gunkie; I know there is a local website where people Advertise for partners. Not sure what it is. Even just going for hikes and scrambles is so worth it. It's beautiful out there!!!
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Mar 9, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
Is there a bus service that goes from Las Vegas to Red Rocks NCA and back?
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Mar 9, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
Hey Gunkie!

No bus out to the NCA. You can usually find partners here, on (sorry gang) Mountain Project, and at the gym (Red Rock Climbing Center) or Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston. The gym and DRS both have guide companies.

Plenty of bouldering, sport routes, trad routes, multi, big wall, etc. Just depends on your flavor. I will shoot you a message.
murse

Trad climber
San Clemente
Mar 11, 2013 - 11:09am PT
Can someone give me the low down on a late exit from the loop road area? I've previously just parked out of the loop if on a long day's outing. Sounds like i might not need to do the extra walking...
murse

Trad climber
San Clemente
Mar 11, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
thanks
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