Vegas baby! Vegas!

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Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 11:43pm PT

Ghost it's in April sometime?? We'd love to have you join us!!

Edit apparently I don't know either.. March 31 this year.

Edit what Bmacd said. Would love to get out and slay some pitches tomorrow!!

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Feb 14, 2013 - 11:55pm PT

Edit what Bmacd said. Would love to get out and slay some pitches tomorrow!!

If you're looking for a semi-rest day, find someone to tie on with and head up Prince of Darkness. The technical grade is 10c, but it's all bolt-protected and low-stress. Dream of Wild Turkeys (right next door) is probably better, but there's something to be said for low-stress.

Okay, caveats: the first pitch is not bolt-protected, but it's also really easy. i.e. low-stress. And the last pitch is actually a real crack, and you might have to place some pro, but the descent is right back down the way you came up, so you can preserve your mellow by just not doing the last pitch.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:20am PT

Jump on a plane Dave, lets do this!! ;)

SCseagoat

Trad climber

Santa Cruz

Feb 15, 2013 - 12:30am PT

Hey Big Mike, enjoying your trip vicariously...love Red Rocks....
Have you been to Zion or Indian Creek yet?

Have fun, keep up the neat pics and updates....hopefully a nifty Trip Report will show up!

Susan

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:47am PT

Susan- thanks! IC is on the list for sure!! Haven't been to Zion either! So many places, so little time.. I think this is the tr! I might expand on it a bit later, but I still have my Yosemite tr to put together when I get home!

We got another late start today... It didn't help that my helmet decided it wanted to camp out overnight in a bush near the start of The Great Red Book....

After a quick run up there to find it we headed over to Pine Creek Canyon to check out Birdland.

Bruce on the Pine Creek Trail

Headed up the trail..

The Brass Wall

Bruce on Birdland 5.7 (p1 5.6)

Following p2 5.7

Bruce leading p3

And that's all we had time for today.. We had to run back to the car. Gotta remember to book that late exit pass!!

Another gorgeous Vegas sunset.

And a crescent moon to boot.

Finally got my In-n-out fix!!

Double double Animal burger and a chocolate shake mmmmmmmmmmm!! That's a tasty burger!!!

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Feb 15, 2013 - 12:49am PT

There's a trail up Pine Creek now?

Vegasclimber

Trad climber

Las Vegas, NV.

Feb 15, 2013 - 01:02am PT

Several of them.... :-| all the climbers fault, of course (sarcasm)

John M

climber

Feb 15, 2013 - 01:11am PT

That desert camo stuff really works. Yall seem to be fading into the picture. haha..

Scrubber

climber

Straight outta Squampton

Feb 15, 2013 - 01:30am PT

Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.

I didn't read through your whole thread, but high on our list of eateries is a Thai place at the north end of the strip in a little plaza (sorry don't know the name, but it's highly regarded), the buffet at the Rio casino is mind blowing. Go in early just before they switch from lunch price to dinner price. Then you're already in when the steaks and alaskan king crab legs come out! If you haven't tried it already, the restaurant at the Bonnie Springs ranch just west of the loop road is pretty cool. huge fireplace to enjoy your PBR's around while bullshitting about your day's adventures

k

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:32am PT

Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland.

Oops!! What do we know??? Where is our local guide???

Yeah, and one of you is a vampire w/ no shadow.

That's Bruce!! He's quick that guy... ;)

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:48am PT

Cosmic does resoles I think??

Wml check your email and start driving... ;)

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Feb 15, 2013 - 11:36am PT

^^^ 5 minutes? Sounds like you'd be my neighbor.

Yesterday was nice, but windy. We simulclimbed Johnny Vegas with the 5.9 variation, to sundog on the upper slab. Got a bit unpleasant with the wind and cold on the second to last pitch, so we bailed. That was interesting, as rapping with a single 80m rope means having to do some downclimbing here and there.

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Feb 15, 2013 - 12:30pm PT

"bjj,

you live W of 215 on Charleston? That's the zone I applied for a house in. Fingers crossed I get it."

I live 30 seconds from 215 at the next exit past Charleston (far hills). Absolutely love it over here. Before that, I lived 35 - 40 minutes from RR in the south part of town.

I specifically moved over here to be close to RR, for easy climbing access, and so I can go out the door on my bike. Riding in my old hood was terrifying. In the 8 months I lived there, I rode exactly twice, and was in fear for my life.

Here, it's a joy. Every road has a big shoulder / bike lane, and drivers are much more aware - since there are riders everywhere.

The full ride from my door, around the loop road and back is a total of 34 miles. Can't beat that with a stick!

Good luck with your search. There's actually a small house about 100 yards from mine with a for rent sign on the lawn. Want some pics and the number?

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Feb 15, 2013 - 01:07pm PT

Ok, let me know if you need that info. Maybe we can get together for some climbing / riding after you arrive. I just started back climbing in October after having to quit 10 years ago. Still shaking out the cobwebs and working on getting fit as fast as I can, because there's a LOT of things I want to tick before the season is over. Stuck in the 5.10 zone for now.

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Feb 15, 2013 - 01:13pm PT

WF heck, you jacking us Dwain?

"Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland."

That IS the trail to Brass Wall. Isn't there only one trail? Head towards Dark Shadows and turn right head up the hill. Are there 2 trails or a better one? Please share yer secrets and I'll buy ya a beer when I get there next:-)

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 02:28pm PT

Couldn't find a partner for today, so rest day it is I guess..

Bruce sent me a few more pics from yesterday.

Birdland Buttress
Bruce MacDonald photo

Me following p1
Bruce MacDonald photo

Extreme close up
Bruce MacDonald photo

This party was finishing up as we approached. We met up with them in the perfect spot on the first ledge.
Bruce MacDonald photo

Yours truly racking up for p2
Bruce MacDonald photo

We didn't see any right fork, or better trail to Brass Wall, but what do we know.., noobs.. ;)

this just in

climber

north fork

Feb 15, 2013 - 02:50pm PT

Yeah Buddy. Thanks for the pics Mike and Bruce.

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Feb 15, 2013 - 03:18pm PT

Here's a couple from last week. Nightcrawler on the brownstone wall. Me at the belay and then following. Handren guide calls it 10c, but it felt quite stout for that grade. Pitch 3 and 4 both get that rating, but both felt harder for different reasons.

Pitch 3 starts with wide stemming with left hand in a wide crack and right hand in a finger crack. I have a lot of trouble with stems because of hip arthritis, so I had to do that part straight in on the finger crack. I know it looks like I am stemming, but that is actually a gigantic drop knee twist for a rest. I cannot spread that wide in the usual both-toes-out position.

Having to do the start of pitch 3 as a straight in / layback finger crack puts it into 5.11 territory, IMO. Luckily I was on the follow because there is no chance I could have stopped to place gear.

Later on in the pitch there is a very delicate and technical reachy move off a ledge that felt very hard.

Pitch 4 is more straight forward, but also more strenuous.

Upon reading about the route on mountain project, it seems the consensus is that 5.10d is more accurate. There's even a report that allegedly, Uriosite says it has always been 10+ this made me feel a little better about the 25 + foot whip I took off the top of pitch 4.

Anyway, this is one of the best routes I've ever done. Rock quality is superb, and the position and view are amazeballs. The only thing that lessened the experience was the burly hike. I am not a giod hiker.