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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 17, 2013 - 09:32am PT
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Jublient Song is a classic 5.7/ 5.8ish, but it is a long approach, and a tricky walk off in the dark. Get up early to check this one out.
Prod.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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Ryan I love sandstone! So cool! Amazing holds everywhere! You say they have bolts here?? ;)
Prod- thanks for the reco. Hopefully we can get out that way.
I took a few pics yesterday.... Alright, more than a few. ;)
The gang on the approach
Just another beautiful day in paradise
Watch out for these jumping cactus! Travis says they're nasty.
I'm still impressed with this pano feature on my phone.
Bruce sending p1 of Geronimo 5.6
Bringing up the gang.
Looking back at the loop road
My lead. P2
How do I let Bruce get all the money pitches??? P3
Almost there!
The view from the top
What a view it is!
Cloud tower and Rainbow wall
Pose down on p4
Cloud tower looks rad!!
Close up
Vegasclimber on p4
And his lovely fiancé Christina
Starting to get a bit dark out...
Bruce setting up the first rap
Good thing Travis called for a late exit!!
Red Rocks sunset.
Another sick day!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 17, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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Nice pics as always Mike. I agree with Ryan, go clip some steep bolts!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 17, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 17, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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Steep climbing is an adventure within itself. I third the suggestion. Enjoy the movements whichever you choose.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 17, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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"Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?"
Haha, nice! I've been thinking of hooking up your route, Mystre Z to get to Brownstone wall for a few of those sweet looking routes up there next time down. I've been running @ 9 hours to car to car Epinephrine last couple times. Phil, is that a reasonable thing to be able to get done without needing a headlamp?
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 17, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
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Couchmaster if you are doing Epi car to car in 9 hours then a MysterZ Brownstone wall should be a cruise. In fact I would wager that climbing MysterZ would be faster than the hike up tp the Brownstone Wall. Have you climbed Armatron yet?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 17, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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No Phil, I've never done ir or even seen a picture till now. it was the photo up thread of Armatron which had me all but losing it. WOW. IT MUST BE CLIMMMMMEEDDDDD!!!! Damn that's good looking rock!!! Wow! I love puzzles like that, blocks of rock where you have to think on where your stance's and pro will be.
Part of the problem is that there is so much to climb at Red Rocks and it's all so damned good. My buddy has wanted to drag me up to Brownstone but the problem is that I always seem to climb off the couch in winter here where nothing but rain is happening and I'm old and out of shape and head down there. Thus I want to minimize my hiking and maximize my climbing. So I look for long routes with less hiking. Some of those upper gullys are ##XX$$!!! Anyway, buddy has fixed it in his mind that he doesn't want to repeat routes, and wants to climb only new ones. But when you are all creaky and out of shape, you want to do a long lap on an old fave to get the head back on straight. So we usually compromise. We start on what I want and then start in on some strange to make him happy....hmmm, that doesn't sound quite right given the hookers and blow comment....:-)
Last year some friends did the long 10c/d up there and raved about it, so that, Armatron and the Black Dagger are all up there waiting to be done (never been to Brownstone wall), and I was hoping to climb up there and noticed that another had recommended one of your routes to do it so I thought I'd just step up and ask the man hisself. You've don't some sweet and kick ass Fa's there. Good stuff. Thanks for the push. I hope to get down there maybe in October or Nov. Short days of course, but thats when I'm usually there, the weather start to go to crap here and it's so sweet down there. It's a rare day we don't get in at least a thousand feet of climbing. mmmmMMhhh!
Dogfathers photo of Armatron, WOW!!!
he said "Armatron. You get almost 3 full pitches of this type of amazing rock."
I'm enchanted.....wow.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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I was last man on the final rap by headlamp. Have not done a party of four in a long time. No stuck ropes on the raps made this day a success. Am I ever fat again.... Photo shoot with Cinnamon at dawn tomorrow on horseback. Wish I was here for another month or two to shed thirty pounds. Climbed with the hairyhotdog today. This place is too much fun!
Looking forward to being fit enough to repeat some of Philo's routes here.
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:56am PT
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Rain Tuesday and Wednesday. Plan accordingly.
if it's heavy in the canyons that will shut you down Thursday and Friday.
It's possible to climb local limestone crags or go to the Keyhole granite.
Rodeo Wall has SE exposure
Gun Club has bees
Hole in the wall Mexican place at Jones and Charleston
La Compita
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:26am PT
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Mike, pay the peanut gallery no heed -many of those bolted routes fit the jim bridwell definition of sport climbing as being a akin to sport copulating - a lot of fun and not a lot of commitment.
Greg, you'll be proud. I stuck my neck out today on a traditionally bolted route. More commitment and excitement on an 80 foot route than I've experienced all trip!
Wait, let me see if I got this straight. You mean to tell me there is more to Vegas than hookers and gambling?
What!! They have hookers and gambling here???? DAMN!! What am I doing???? ;)
Philo I wanted to do MysterZ just to say I climbed a Philo route!! Alas.. Next time.
I'm getting depressed pretty fast.
Chin up Cosmic. Get your life back on track and heal up your body. Call me when you're ready and i'll get down here again to go send!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 04:02am PT
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Bruce sent me a few more shots from yesterday.
Me belaying two people up to save time on top of Geronimo p2
Bruce MacDonald photo
Christina on the p1 ledge.
Bruce MacDonald photo
Me following p3
Bruce MacDonald photo
Travis at the p3 belay.
Bruce MacDonald photo
You are all having fun and struggling around at the same time. That's a good plan for body shrinkage. Keep on having a good time and good things will happen...
I have no idea how Bruce does it! I didn't have any food left at the condo for dinner tonight, and Bruce didn't want to go anywhere so he shared his last low cal microwave dinner with me. It was good but I was starving an hour later. Thankfully In-n-Out was just a brisk walk away so I could get some calories into this frame.
We went to Calico Basin again today and met up with Harry. We had our sights on Physical Grafitti and that nice new bolted 5.9 but two parties beat us to it and proceeded to stand around, doing nothing. I shoulda just thrown the rope down, racked up and asked if they minded if we played through since they were taking their sweet time, but I'm just too damn nice for my own good sometimes...
We decided to go check out Cannibal Crag instead. When we got down there the northeast face was swamped with people so we went around the northwest.
No one was on Cannibal Crack 5.4 so I warmed up on that. We had the big gear for PG so I felt quite comfortable on it. Harry walked it and I got him to leave the anchor because I wanted to onsight Caliban 5.8+.
Caliban 5.8+
It looked pretty darn runout but I was confident I could do it. I took one small friend with me too, just in case.
I got the first bolt clipped and made the awkward move to the first stance on the right. I let out a "holy fvck!" and Harry said "ya I wasn't going to say anything".... Looking up at the second bolt wasn't exactly comforting.
I put my head down and made every move, slow and precise. The holds were rounded and insecure. Before long I was at the second bolt. The third was still a long way away.
I got a small friend in a nice horizontal and got the third bolt clipped. The final slab wasn't easy either and I really wished I had brought a #1 Camalot also, but couldn't do anything about it now!
I made it to the anchor but not without puckering my sphincter a bit!!! Bruce couldn't even look. Harry said I made it look good but it sure got the adrenaline rushing!!
After we went to the northeast side and climbed all the mellow clip ups there. Each and every one of them felt easier then Caliban!!
It was another beautiful day and Harry and I had a great time. Bruce just chilled, wanting to be fresh for tomorrow.
I took this shot of them in the lot.
Bruce has a photo shoot at 4:30am so the morning is pretty much a write off. I'm hoping to get out and pump myself out on some 10+ clip ups in the afternoon.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 18, 2013 - 09:44am PT
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BigMike and Vegasclimber thanks for sharinggreat pics of an obviously great time.
MysterZ is one of three new routes that Jimmy Newberry and I established on a trip in 2003. In each case we were trying to follow the poor and misleading info in Swain's guide. Instead of finding the existing climbs we ended up putting up new ones. Oh well Cest la vie, C'est la guerre.
MysterZ is an excellent way to approach the Brownstone Wall. It is a fun and varied route and I would heartily recommend it. Of all the routes I have been involved with establishing at Red Rock MysterZ ia by far the easiest and least committing while still being a good day out.
For those interested here is a topo for it .
Now, about those hookers and gambling.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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You guys certainly seem to know how to keep the fun meter maxed out!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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That caliban picture is badass. Sounds like a good lead too.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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Couchmaster, the upper pitches of Armatron are amazing. It's like God's own master mason built it for maximum climbing pleasure. But just a note, don't take P.2 for granted. The crux is short but just a wee bit slick and tricksy.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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Great thread!! I don't know why the title got lost somewhere between my eye and brain until this morning when I happened to catch the author's name.
Good to see all the advice, activity, and scenery. I think I have a photo of the same cactus Big Mike showed on the way to the Red Book.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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Remember to go do Eagle dance
I Wish!! The photo shoot killed Bruce this morning. As I expected. It's supposed to rain around 4 tomorrow so we might have time for something short if yeti hunter can get out of bed.
Still hoping to get pumped out on some clip ups this afternoon..... Fvck. I should just throw the 7.5 on my back, steal the car and go solo!!!!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 18, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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Yes, yes you should.
There's some really fun bouldering out at Willow Springs too. I sent harder than I ever thought possible on the blocs there. It was a V6, which for me is pretty incredible
Go party on the rock dude.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 18, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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"Couchmaster, the upper pitches of Armatron are amazing. It's like God's own master mason built it for maximum climbing pleasure. But just a note, don't take P.2 for granted. The crux is short but just a wee bit slick and tricksy."
Thanks Phil. Wish I was there right now climbing in the warm sun. Went hiking with the wife instead of climbing yesterday, colder than it should have been and windy. Saw 4 Eagles.
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