18 murdered, dumped in portrero chico; climbers are fleeing

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 301 - 320 of total 366 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Feb 3, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
You realize we're about to turn this into a climbing thread. Keep it up.

Can you fuking believe I'm the 1st human ever at the base of the Bronco Bowl and I didn't bolt Celestial Omnibus immediately??!! Love Kurts long 13a's, but that's my fave route at the Potrero and I let Ned get it... Ned's an awesome dude.
ruppell

climber
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Stories would indeed be welcome.

Celestial is on of those routes that you look and and go "HOLY SH!TE. It goes out that?"

My first trip down there in 2005 I met up with a guy who wanted to go do Fit for Life. I'd never been up into the Bronco Bowl. Steep climbing at the time was a weakness of mine and I figured those two routes would be good for me. So the next day we get the Potrero alpine start. That's noon for those of you who haven't been done there. We arrive at the base and start flaking the rope. My partner, who was a much better climber than I, INSISTS that I take the first pitch. At 11a a it's not technically that hard but it is long and a tiny bit runout. At the time it only sported 5 bolts in it's 150 feet. So I grab the draws and tie in. A remember getting to the crux and looking down about 15 feet at the last bolt and having a pretty good laugh. I finished the pitch and belayed my partner up. Turns out he had been up to the Bronco Bowl a few times but had never lead Steel Pulse. I guess runout face climbing was a weakness of his.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
How about bolting that well?
Anastasia

climber
Home
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Stilltrying says it best.

"...only color that matters to them is green."

That's the bottom line. Most of the problems in Mexico is just that. It needs to redo the way it allows business to function, make it more of a free market, capitalistic, less open to local corruption and wham! They have the skills, the desires and the resources to compete. Do that and I bet half the problems over there will disappear. Once they can chase the dream, the drug world wouldn't be so attractive. Right now because there is so little opportunity, drug smuggling looks real good.





bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
That's the bottom line. Most of the problems in Mexico is just that. It needs to redo the way it allows business to function, make it more of a free market, capitalistic, less open to local corruption and wham! They have the skills, the desires and the resources to compete. Do that and I bet half the problems over there will disappear. Once they can chase the dream, the drug world wouldn't be so attractive. Right now because there is so little opportunity, drug smuggling looks real good.


Gosh Damnit!!! Do I need to run for f*#king President!!!

I have been advocating a policy like this for years on this forum. Bring manufacturing from Asia to Mexico and South America. You know what you get???

1. Less illegal immigration
2. Less transportation costs for goods.
3. More prosperity in Mexico, and less corruption, and less drug trafficking.

Don't make me come down there, Mexico!!!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
You ex - military Hank?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
The manufacturing went to Mexico for a while. Remember the maquiadoras ? Capital moved on.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
It needs to redo the way it allows business to function, make it more of a free market, capitalistic, less open to local corruption and wham! They have the skills, the desires and the resources to compete. Do that and I bet half the problems over there will disappear.

Yes, maybe, but reducing corruption is one of the primary cruxes for all developing countries trying to increase prosperity amongst its citizens. It is much more difficult and complex than simply changing laws or policy. Once corruption has gained traction in a society, people lose faith and become jaded towards its political and economic system. The people engaging in corruption have a strong vested interest in the status quo, and are generally resistant to positive change.

If it were as simple as changing the way government allows business to function, then you can be sure that half of the problems (or more) for the entire Third World would disappear.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
The manufacturing went to Mexico for a while. Remember the maquiadoras ? Capital moved on.


It needs to be gov't subsidized. Yes, I said it.....

And Yeah, I think Hank is former mil.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Ex-scout member : I would never allow my children to join that backwards bumfuct organization.

DMT


I hear ya, the Boy Scouts of America is nothing but a bad influence on boys.

They should be banned for their homophobic ideas. Gays are a better role model for humanity than those BSA as#@&%es!
canyoncat

Social climber
SoCal
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
I was watching some TV documentary yesterday about the cartels, and they were interviewing a "hitman" for the cartel in Sinaloa. He said he'd killed 15 people so far. They asked him how much, and he said $200 each (only in pesos). The interviewer mentioned that's not much and he replied "here, it is plenty". So if you have kids who are willing to become hit men for only $200 I don't think there is ANYTHING that will improve the situation.
deschamps

Trad climber
Out and about
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
I don't think there is ANYTHING that will improve the situation.

Eliminating demand would immediately improve the situation.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Eliminating demand would immediately improve the situation.


Yep.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
In antiquity, IIRC, tossing bodies in the well, was a way to punish the larger public of the area. No one will ever drink from a well - from which dead have been pulled out - again. In antiquity, that could doom a town.

Can't find much on the interwebs to support it, but google offers:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2230441/Archaeologists-stumble-Neolithic-murder-mystery-finding-remains-teenage-girl-older-man-ancient-well.html#axzz2JyUhRg6j

Archaeologists from Israel say they have have stumbled onto a Neolithic murder mystery after two bodies were found dumped in a well dating back 8,500 years.

Researchers from the Israel Antiquities Authority unearthed the ancient well in the Jezreel Valley, south-west of Nazareth, after it was discovered by road maintenance workers.

But they have no idea how the skeletal remains of a 19-year-old girl and an older man came to be dumped deep down the 26ft well, and suggest that it may be a case of murder

'What is clear is that after these unknown individuals fell into the well it was no longer used,' said Yotam Tepper, the archaeologist in charge of the dig.

graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:28pm PT





RIP
Anastasia

climber
Home
Feb 4, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Musicians are usually just a bunch of womanizers and that's about it. Really, extremely sad. :(
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Feb 4, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Video of the band playing



Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 5, 2013 - 12:10am PT
canyoncat - that's how it works, kids are used as hitmen in Colombia too. They start out as neglected or homeless children, which is a widespread social problem. It's partly a result of the war, which created millions of displaced people and broke up families. The participants in the fighting were generally men, and their numbers got reduced, leaving orphans. Another thing is that rural Colombians don't formally marry as a rule, and the father sometimes just walks off. If there is an extended family, that's one thing, but many millions of them are displaced and that's not an option. There's also just a lot of bad parents. For whatever reason, there's a lot of kids down there living on the streets or ignored at home and on the streets all the time anyway. The paramilitaries and guerrillas use them as lookouts and pay them, giving 8 or 10 year old homeless kids the best opportunity they've ever had. Eventually they graduate to a certain age and are given a gun, and a sense of power few 12 year olds would have. Since they come from poor displaced communities, where no one paints their house because its too expensive, its an attractive option, and this is very prevalent and the way the armed groups have recruited for years. (Freddy Rendon Herrera was just convicted of this, recruitment of minors, for about 150 teenagers under his command)

About 3 years ago, there was a guy in a wheelchair who used to hang out in front of a particular store a lot, was either a lookout, or suspected of being one, since a young boy of about 10 years ran up and just shot and killed him in broad daylight. This was about 2 blocks from my office in Apartado. And from my work I know that a large % of the victims of the conflict have been teenagers. The farc like to recruit adolescents so that they can indoctrinate them, which is slightly different. In any event, kids have no fear and will do what they're told, and can be taught to accept it as normal. When they get older they have seen so much and been desensitized.

One last story: an apartment I used to rent was above a fried chicken place like KFC. These guys were up at 5:30 AM to fry all the chicken for the day, and the smell made me feel sick to my stomach, that's how I woke up every day until I moved out. A year later there it is on the news, the same fried chicken restaurant, I am subscribing to a youtube channel of a news station from there. It turns out that one of my neighbors, on the same floor but I didn't recognize him or know him, had decapitated his wife in their kitchen, with a kitchen knife. I can post the link to the news story if desired. I attribute this kind of psycho behavior to things seen or learned at a young age, although I don't know anything about the guy. I guess this could happen anywhere, but the homicide rate there is extremely high. (Ron mentioned MS 13 before, they're from El Salvador and I have the same theory about them.)

A couple of awesome movies from Colombia about Medellin, the capital of our department. The first is called Vendedora de Rosas, its about street children and there is a youtube version with english subtitles. The second is called La Sierra: Muerte en Medellin, that's about the AUC paramilitaries, who turn out to be about 16 years old, and is a really scary documentary. It starts with an older guy who says, "We're in the hands of armed teenagers. That's the problem." A third movie would be "La Gorra' which is just about gang violence. All these movies are in a similar style, that reminds me of Spike Lee.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Feb 5, 2013 - 01:05am PT
So i had a real good chat with my brother-in-law yesterday during the Super Bowl - he is from Guadalajara and he is a smart guy.
I didn't realise it but the last three times he has went down he has flown.
He says it is like Russian Roulette right now - but it is better then last year.
South of Monterrey area not to bad - Monterrey and north real bad. That is also what the locals will say and think about their prospective areas.
He says, like i was saying, nothing is written about it in the Media - they kill you if you write about anything.
We would have never heard about this killing if it was not for Potrero Chico - it is not in the papers or on the news here anywhere - nobody even knows about it in this area.

He was telling me cartel violence is spreading and changing - his brother, who lives in Guadalajara, has been robbed twice in the last two months - they remodeled their home and it made it a target - the first time they busted in at gun point and robbed them and the second time they just cleaned everything out when they were gone.

He told me a story about a Mexican guy he works with who has some bullet scars - he is from a town close to Monterey. He was driving into his town and the Zetas were there - just randomly shooting at everything and anyone who drove into town - he got hit in the back a few times.

He said the new freeway from Reynosa to Monterey is incredible - 10 hour drive now and pretty safe - but from the border to Monterey or Saltillo is just to dangerous.

pat

Trad climber
estes park
Feb 5, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/travelers-advisory-el-potrero-chico-mexico?page=2

Rock and Ice responds, and makes some good points too.
Messages 301 - 320 of total 366 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews