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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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I'm there, heading to the top of the hill around 10am. Psyched for today, the weather seems amazing!!!
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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I always felt Woodson boulder problems were rated for the most difficult move. So if a climb's hardest move was 11.c but maybe had 3 11.c moves it was still rated 11.c
As far as Henny goes......... he couldn't do slap you silly last time I was belaying him. And it's probably really only 11+ Sorry....
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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(case in point, '10a on the outside...)
I use to repeat this on occasion and even ticked it as my last problem in the '86 contest...and I NEVER was a .12 climber...11+ for sure.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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One Burly Dude, 1985.
Don't get me started again Bob, but that problem that Greg's on is on the north face of Lonesome Boulder at Santee Boulders (note the highlighted features match perfectly from photo to photo, yet Greg's is tilted to the right a bit. Disregard the climber on the left:
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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I just want you all to know that I am sometimes very f*#king resentful and jealous of your climbing opportunity there. I live in Seattle, and the trouble is, I am not a mountaineer and am way too old to change(59.75yr). Sure, great rock climbers have come from Seattle and that little town across the border to the north, but I don't know how they did it.
Anyway, when I first got back into science I was sent to a protein chemistry meeting in San Diego, and all I could think about was finally checking out Woodson.
As soon as the talks were over, I rented a car and headed up to Woodson. I got there late, bouldered around and had my mind blown --kid in a candy shop!--. I somehow managed to find Robbin's crack (Frye's book?) and I even think the Long(?) cracks, and things that still might not have names. I didn't see another person, no one! This was '93(?). It was wonderful! I slept coldly in the rental car in some little pull off east of Woodson, and bouldered a little in the morning and caught my flight back the next day.
Tangentially and related to that other thread: Luke Freeman, my high school climbing partner, and Rick Piggott climbed together at Woodson and down at Gran Trono Blanco in the '80s.
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LMo
climber
San Diego
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Jan 14, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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Got in my first Woodson day for the year and it was a good one! Conditions were amazing (ice on the road!), company was great, and the climbing was high quality as usual.
Started out on TV Screen, which after two years of reluctantly trying, finally did. This may seem insignificant, but seeing as how this problem has spit me off more than I want to think about, I think the send bodes well for 2013. Mark and Doug mantled around for a bit, eyed the Curtis again, and then found themselves on a roadside obscurity with a bad landing. Next I spent some time trying to figure out some beta for Kurtains for Certain, but really, where does it go? Does it share more than the starting holds and the first sidepull on Uncertainty? Not that this really matters, but I would like to know where the line is supposed to be.
Continuing on a mission to mantle just about anything, Doug and Mark got on Lemon Chiffon, and then to really balance out the "light and fluffy" (matisse) of Lemon Chiffon, we went to Silk Banana and there were good laughs to be had.
Pictures below are of the last climb of the day, some traversing face climb on the big rock just up from Fade to Black. And then of course, another spectacular Woodson sunset.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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It was definitely a fine day at Woodson, as evidenced by the ice on the road!! I hiked to the top and even saw little accumulations of SNOW up there.
Met Doug, Lauren, and another friend at some roadside obscurity with a heinous landing. At the top I hung out for a bit, did a few warm up laps on a slab up there, then did "Woodson Falls" (5.8 hands from the Hubbard guide). Cool climbing with a semi-crappy landing and nice views to the west. Also did the slightly overhanging blocky face climb known in the Hubbard guide as "Prison Yard" (?). I kept thinking, I want to check out the climb that exists on potato chip rock but don't wanna be near a million hikers while doing it. Anyone ever get on that?
After a couple more unnamed problems, a crack and a face climb, I found myself taping up in front of Hamburger crack. That problem is pretty cool! Not sure why I had never done it before. Next stop was Head First in the Bushes, and after flailing on that for a bit, my ego was warmed up for Korean Cowboy, which rejected me numerous times. Although I did feel like I was making progress, it drained my energy! Overall a good day out there!
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matisse
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Hey Lauren
did the beautimous lite and fluffy Lemmon Chiffon get the grafitti cleaned off her gorgeous flanks?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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THERE IS GRAFITTI ON LEMON CHIFFON????!!!!!??????
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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Somebody's gonna die that's for sure.
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crøtch
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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Speaking of graffiti, there's the '10 graffiti on South Woodson, and '11 and '12 graffiti on Woodson proper facing SR76. Any guess as to where the class of 2013 will be spraying their own monument, and is there a way to stop it?
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LMo
climber
San Diego
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Jan 14, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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Lemon Chiffon is still covered in graffiti.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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I know that ACSD has the resources available (to anyone that wants it) for the removal of graffiti (taginator and such). I need to get to one of those meetings and get started on it.
As far as preventing future vandalism, I've imagined placing a threatening sign at that new board. Something like: "Beware of the rock climbers if you're spray painting. If you're out here vandalizing the place, an encounter with a climber would be much more dangerous than one with a rattlesnake or a mountain lion."
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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Darwin,
Great memory of Woodson, and some more of Woodson history...thanks
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 14, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Wow.
That grafitti is sad. All I can say is, Welcome to Rubidoux. Something we started having to deal with years ago at Rubidoux, and something I had hoped would never happen at Woodson. Is there new grafitti anywhere else?
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matisse
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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:(
Jochen was going to head out there and get it off with taginator but he was out of town. I am sure we can get it cleaned up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Why Lemon Chiffon, I wonder? Off the road, obscure location, not exactly the kind of nondescript lump you'd expect to get tagged. Jesus Motherf*#king Christ. What's next?!
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matisse
climber
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Jan 14, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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I think it was K proclaiming his undying love for R, so privacy might have been desirable.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 14, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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ACSD does, in fact, have resources for paint removal, and Woodson is on our radar. We're currently focusing on Santee since it is in much worse condition, and we'll be out there most of the day Feb 10th starting at 8am in a huge effort. Once Santee is cleaned up, hopefully we'll have time/resources to get after Woodson. It takes a lot of organization, time, and man power to remove the paint. If any of you want to come to meetings and organize events, feel free. Leadership in this area would certainly be appreciated and do some good. As it stands, as far as I know, me and one other person are the only ones taking on paint removal at SD county crags, and I have very limited time. So.... who wants to take responsibility to organize the Woodson paint removal?
http://www.alliedclimbers.org/
http://pullharder.org/2011/02/10/mt-woodson-paint-removal/
Josh
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