Woodson 2013

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Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Wait...I hear a train...listen...!


Credit: Truthdweller
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:03am PT
That grafitti is sad. All I can say is, Welcome to Rubidoux. Something we started having to deal with years ago at Rubidoux, and something I had hoped would never happen at Woodson. Is there new grafitti anywhere else?

It seems to be limited to that area in general, along the trail past Lemon Chiffon and to Uncertainty Principle.

That same horrible red and green stuff also appeared on the Painted Boulder, but it was covered by some "neutral" gray paint. A ranger told me that he gave someone the go-ahead to cover up the graffiti with more paint. Not sure if that's the best strategy, I think we should go with the Taginator to get all of it off!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:51am PT
Get it off, for sure. One of the strategies employed by the city at Rubidoux was to paint entire sections of wall with tan paint to hide the grafitti. Needless to say, that just compounded the disaster. Whereas the tagging may have only hit a few holds the remedy covered everything. From bad to worse. Fortunately they later came back and sandblasted some of the areas they had coated, even doing a somewhat decent job of it, but the damage is pretty hard to undo when it gets that large scale.

Lauren, just pick some holds, get left of Uncertainty as soon as possible, then pull the top down. Kurtains is pretty close to Uncertainty the entire way. Maybe someone with a razor sharp memory like Reign 1 (hahahahha) could tell you exactly which holds are shared to start. Then again, that isn't likely to be happening - so just use as few common holds as possible. Who cares. Those lines are really close together. Oh, and by the way: when you're there next get one of those knuckleheads to go up top with a camera and shoot pictures looking down the problem. I'd like to see pictures looking down the thing. Seriously. That is, assuming they can do it without falling off the top and hurting themselves.

As far as Henny goes......... he couldn't do slap you silly last time I was belaying him. And it's probably really only 11+ Sorry...
Sigh. Sad but true.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Got Wyde?

Credit: bvb
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
As near as I can tell covering graffiti with yet more paint is a horrible idea. Better to just leave the graffiti. The disaster that became of "In The Picture" at Roob is a case in point. ugly as sin, and it did nothing for the aesthetics.

Surely there is some king of solvent that will just melt that sh#t off? Has anyone tried Jesso? (sp?)
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
A few weekends ago at the playground.
Not sure what that climb to the left of The Crucible is, but it's a bitch.
Eric on lead
Eric on lead
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Another classic San Diego sunset.
Another classic San Diego sunset.
Credit: dirt claud
matisse

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
it is test tube (keeping with the chemistry theme.)
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
That Everest boulder really has some classics on it that's for sure. I can still remember the first, and only time, I did the OW...the start was called 10c wasn't it Bob, the rest being 5.9?



Good to hear from you Claudio!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
Sheesh, finally some routes I recognize! if I had a dollar for every Woodson route I'd forgotten about, I'd have enough (if somehow I could also come up with 250,000 dollars) to send my daughter to college.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
The disaster that became of "In The Picture" at Roob is a case in point. ugly as sin, and it did nothing for the aesthetics.

Yeap. A nightmare, it's never been the same although it has been cleaned up somewhat.

aesthetics? You must have bumped your head or something.

It's a nice place to visit, or if you're trapped in the urban hell of the Inland Empire it makes a nice escape. Too bad it's so urban with all the associated problems, there's some great rock there. The quality of the problems is also decent. But when it comes to overall aesthetics it can't even start to compare to Woodson. Well, maybe when it's spring (green) and the poppies are out - that's pretty cool.

We need to get this thread back on its rightful topic. I seem to recall hearing that in the days of yore woodson=bvb=woodson. Is that true?
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
bvb, not really that Wyde,

No TR, sharp end



Just some older dude with some bitd photos
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Couple more



Carry on with the current cool stuff
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
We need to get this thread back on its rightful topic. I seem to recall hearing that in the days of yore woodson=bvb=woodson. Is that true?

Absolutely true. For example, it is a little-known fact that the Sacred Concubine Muse of All Things Woodson and I would regularly perform this interpretive Crack Dance, replete with live unicorn sacrifices and crazy monkey sex, in order to conjure up sw0le new crack finds from deep within the Terra Incognito of the chapparal ether. Sort of like a warped yoga incarnation of a Ouija board, for communing with cracked granite orbs. We kept Ron down in our Gimp Cage and brought him along on occasion when we thought we might need a no-neck musclebound thug to wave off the dopplegangers and interlopers looking to snake our finds.

Credit: bvb
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 16, 2013 - 12:28am PT
Whoa. Not sure what to think of that.

a no-neck musclebound thug
Ouch.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 01:29am PT
Gonna open a new Woodson guide service in Ramona. Chakra alignments often improve crack performance!

Credit: bvb
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 18, 2013 - 05:01am PT
was referring to FAs that we rated, bobo. You remember, all those 11+ things you couldnt do? Those. But enough about first ascents, its not right to leave you out of the conversation.

and i like my gimp box just fine ty
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Ron, onea these days you should scan up some of our 1985 MailWar exchanges. Our finest hour, IMHO.

"There goes Bob to the same old 5.11's he has wired."

"He looks bad today. Let's not burn him off on too may new problems."

"Sure, Boys! I can carry us all! Hop on these broad, strong shoulders!"

got a beer?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Looking to try the Longs this weekend!!!!






I don't ever remember this being 5.10c. We always thought it was 5.11, especially on the first ascent, circa 1975, on-sight with no pads and no rope. Don't pitch.

-largo
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
I will bob, that stuff is hilarious and absolutely classic.

Oh and henny, thats just bobs way of showin the luv
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
John, the left one might be 10c, but that wide one is a mother. Ive never heard it called anything but ass-busting 5.11. Kudos doing the FA unroped...
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