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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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Gah! Foiled again!
��
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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Awesome photos! I can usually recognize the locations, but what's the problem on bvb's last picture?
That "Pringles" face is gnarly, my cursory attempts did not yield anything. Chips kept poppin'. The more it "cleaned up", the thinner it seemed to get...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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That's Eppi on Eppicenter. Or Eppulation. A super sweet super short yoga twister powerefest on the backside of Shawn's Knows, right on the road. I can remember the problems but some of the names get slippery.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Whoa, I kinda thought it looked that problem (I know it as "The Eppulator") but the landing looks way different. Last time I was there I got the beta on that, apparently some road work changed the landing and perhaps the problem? I see it marked as 5.11ish and yet cannot even get started on it (not that that means anything). I think Shawn's Knobs may be the back side (and for me, the climbable side) of that same quartz dike!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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Yep, that's it. The photo is 30 years old so the landing probably has changed. We used to call it B1, so good luck with the grade!
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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We used to call it B1, so good luck with the grade!
That is "news you can use"!!! I'll keep up with my strategy on that problem: walking past it, scowling at it, and muttering a few curse words.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:42am PT
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Yah eppulator used to be half hidden by a big bush. Whenever we passed that thing id tell greg "theres a problem there" and he'd reply "naw that things a pile, theres nothing there". We never bothered to stop because there was other stuff to climb that wasnt behind a bush, but every time it was the same thing, i swore there was a problem there and he swore there wasnt. I swear he must be clairvoyant, because the very day i planned to finally check it out i meet greg up there and the first thing he says is "wanna see my new problem?" Hes got the bush cleared back and the ankle breaker hole at the base fixed and everything. Heres the funny part. I got on it and sent it and greg says "aw hell, anybody can do it, i thought it was hard" lol. True story.
The ground used to be lower than it is now. Youre right bob-o it was B1 before the shovel jockeys got to it.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jan 11, 2013 - 03:10am PT
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For the edification of the generations that have superseded our own, we had a funny rating system for boulder problems back then. 5.12 was the highest grade back in the 80's when we were killing it, and we didnt consider ourselves 5.12 climbers, so when we did something that was at the limit of our ability we called it 11+. There are plenty of 11+ problems at woodson that arent V3 for that reason. When we started doing harder stuff we still couldnt bear to call it 5.12, so we used John Gills "B1" rating instead.
Gill rated his problems B1 (harder than the hardest existing routes), B2 (pretty much impossible for anyone except gill), and B3 (a problem so impossibly difficult that it cant be repeated. A repeat drops it to B2).
Dont confuse our B1 with anything gill did, but thats where we got that designation.
Side note - i emailed John Gill a couple years ago and asked him about the B3 rating. He called it a "volatile substance", only intensifying the mystique around climbing's most exhalted rating ever.
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Jon Clark
Trad climber
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:06am PT
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Hey Ron,
What did you guys rate Hard as Nails BITD? I think I recall Hensel calling it 11+ (not 100 %). I think the static start up to the crimp certainly meets the criteria of 11+ that is harder than V3.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 11, 2013 - 11:33am PT
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I did call Hard As Nails with the static start 11+, because that's how it seemed to me. That was based on a single attempt, maybe there's an easier way to do it that multiple tries would have revealed. If there's an easier way to do it, or I'm just old, so be it.
What a great thin crack that thing is, doesn't matter what it's rated.
Ratings are pretty much a crap shoot, just ballpark estimates of what to expect. Seems the best approach is to always expect the worst, you never know when you're going to get nailed by someone's sandbag, or a particular problem just won't suit you.
Slap You Silly at 12b, now that's pretty funny. Too bad it isn't just a little harder so it could qualify as a Rubdioux 12b. Sorry Donny.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Temps should be perfect this weekend.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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What's with the slab on the right?!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 11, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Woodson, isn't that where the n00bs go to work their way up to real climbs?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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It's where n00bs go to die and hardmen to be humbled! w00t w00t!
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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If noobys had to start climbing at woodson the crags would be alot less crowded worldwide. I cant count how many "hardmen" have I seen coming off that hill muttering about the ratings, the landings, the brush...as they eat a hearty serving of humble pie.
Dont think so? Come on down, we love visitors.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jan 11, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Jon, thats not my route, but i think its one of "those" 5.11+ climbs. I did it once and thought it was really really hard. It also really really hurt, so once was enough for me.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 13, 2013 - 01:23am PT
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There is frost on the ground and ice on the road! Capitalizing on the conditions, Mark razed hell. We saw 35+(?) cars and a lot of climbers...kind of exciting. Who's going to be out there tomorrow? Ron? Rick? ...be fun to meet up. Darkmagus?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 02:35am PT
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5.12 was the highest grade back in the 80's when we were killing it, and we didnt consider ourselves 5.12 climbers
Say whaaazzizzle there, Krispy Kreme?! Not by any means an all-inclusive list, but all in the bag by '80 - '84:
Aids Victim
Starving In Stereo
Head First In Der Booshes
Lie Detector
PhD
VP's Office
Top Secret File
American Gypsy
Teacher's Pet
Airstream
Undertow
Twin Knobs Mantle
The Sin Eater
etc etc etc
Let's not even go there with the early - to mid '70's stuff you and I know damn well are good 'ol Woodson 5.11c, but Prancers like CG insist are .12 (case in point, '10a on the outside...)
These people. harrrmph.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:48am PT
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What is the twin mantle? And Teacher's Pet by PhD? What's that all about?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 13, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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If noobys had to start climbing at woodson the crags would be alot less crowded worldwide. I cant count how many "hardmen" have I seen coming off that hill muttering about the ratings, the landings, the brush...as they eat a hearty serving of humble pie.
Dont think so? Come on down, we love visitors.
I was bouldering at the Happys a few years back, and got into a friendly conversation with some Bishop locals about Woodson. All of a sudden, things turned sour. They started dissing Woodson like it was some pile of choss, or something. The insults they started slinging at the inanimate objects that cover the hillside were loaded with vitriol.
When you compare the friendliness of the ratings, the landings, the access, etc. of the Happys (which I'm the first to admit is a super fun scene) with Woodson, my unspoken response was, "Hmmm...you got spanked by Woodson, didn'tchya..."
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