Woodson 2013

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bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 1, 2013 - 03:05am PT
Lucky 13, yo.

Credit: bvb
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 1, 2013 - 05:02am PT
Credit: gonamok
woodson 5.9 (photo by R Allenby)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 05:26am PT
Credit: bvb

Woodson 5.7 lowball
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 1, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Fact or Friction?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
hey there say, bvb.... thanks for the fun picture!!

usually i cannot see the pics here, ... this was fun!
:)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Credit: bvb
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Woodson is aging well.
Jonnnyyyzzz

Trad climber
San Diego,CA
Jan 1, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Sickle Crack, Robins Crack, Rockwork Orange, Milkbar, Hamburger Crack, Elsa's Crack, and Out of Sight. A hand full of fun easy Woodson classics from yesteryear, done with good people I found on the Hill this New Years Day 2013. Thank You to all the friendly strangers that shared a rope and good times with me today. Happy New Years Mt Woodson
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:22am PT
and then there was silence......



to bvb - only because of the cheap rates for lodging.... none of those rumors have never been proven
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Fueco sampling the road side goods...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:27am PT

henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:16am PT
What is a picture of the Beehive Wall doing in the Woodson thread?


I mean, as awesome as Rubidoux is we shouldn't flaunt it in the face of the Woodsonites, eh? That's something we should never do. Perhaps it was an honest mistake. But if not, well, then.....

Good job. hehehehe.


How can I be sure it's Rubidoux? Just look at all the paint on the rock. Gaack.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 11:45am PT
Well that explains why I did not for the life of me recognize that festering pile. Praise God!, as Delloosionsmeller wpold say, for his tender mercies.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Impressive catch Henny. New project right off the road. Anyone?
proj
proj
Credit: Johannsolo
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Downhill from Big Grunt, towards Go With The Flow?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 6, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Nope. Within 20 feet of the road in plain sight maybe 15 feet tall. Prolly hard .12
Horvath

Trad climber
CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:14am PT
that face is right below lie Detector, bunch of potato chips

nice work on Patchouli John that thing looks sick!
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Good eye Greg. Chips pretty much gone now.
Pringles(?) (V5/6?)
Pringles(?) (V5/6?)
Credit: Johannsolo
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Jesus Christ Greg. That's phenominal. Do you memorize phone books for fun in your spare time?!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 03:44am PT
One Burly Dude, 1985.

Credit: bvb
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:24am PT
Gah! Foiled again!

��
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:36am PT
Awesome photos! I can usually recognize the locations, but what's the problem on bvb's last picture?

That "Pringles" face is gnarly, my cursory attempts did not yield anything. Chips kept poppin'. The more it "cleaned up", the thinner it seemed to get...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
That's Eppi on Eppicenter. Or Eppulation. A super sweet super short yoga twister powerefest on the backside of Shawn's Knows, right on the road. I can remember the problems but some of the names get slippery.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Whoa, I kinda thought it looked that problem (I know it as "The Eppulator") but the landing looks way different. Last time I was there I got the beta on that, apparently some road work changed the landing and perhaps the problem? I see it marked as 5.11ish and yet cannot even get started on it (not that that means anything). I think Shawn's Knobs may be the back side (and for me, the climbable side) of that same quartz dike!

Shawn's Knobs
Shawn's Knobs
Credit: darkmagus
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Yep, that's it. The photo is 30 years old so the landing probably has changed. We used to call it B1, so good luck with the grade!
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
We used to call it B1, so good luck with the grade!

That is "news you can use"!!! I'll keep up with my strategy on that problem: walking past it, scowling at it, and muttering a few curse words.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 11, 2013 - 02:42am PT
Yah eppulator used to be half hidden by a big bush. Whenever we passed that thing id tell greg "theres a problem there" and he'd reply "naw that things a pile, theres nothing there". We never bothered to stop because there was other stuff to climb that wasnt behind a bush, but every time it was the same thing, i swore there was a problem there and he swore there wasnt. I swear he must be clairvoyant, because the very day i planned to finally check it out i meet greg up there and the first thing he says is "wanna see my new problem?" Hes got the bush cleared back and the ankle breaker hole at the base fixed and everything. Heres the funny part. I got on it and sent it and greg says "aw hell, anybody can do it, i thought it was hard" lol. True story.

The ground used to be lower than it is now. Youre right bob-o it was B1 before the shovel jockeys got to it.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 11, 2013 - 03:10am PT
For the edification of the generations that have superseded our own, we had a funny rating system for boulder problems back then. 5.12 was the highest grade back in the 80's when we were killing it, and we didnt consider ourselves 5.12 climbers, so when we did something that was at the limit of our ability we called it 11+. There are plenty of 11+ problems at woodson that arent V3 for that reason. When we started doing harder stuff we still couldnt bear to call it 5.12, so we used John Gills "B1" rating instead.

Gill rated his problems B1 (harder than the hardest existing routes), B2 (pretty much impossible for anyone except gill), and B3 (a problem so impossibly difficult that it cant be repeated. A repeat drops it to B2).
Dont confuse our B1 with anything gill did, but thats where we got that designation.

Side note - i emailed John Gill a couple years ago and asked him about the B3 rating. He called it a "volatile substance", only intensifying the mystique around climbing's most exhalted rating ever.
Jon Clark

Trad climber
Jan 11, 2013 - 07:06am PT
Hey Ron,

What did you guys rate Hard as Nails BITD? I think I recall Hensel calling it 11+ (not 100 %). I think the static start up to the crimp certainly meets the criteria of 11+ that is harder than V3.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 11, 2013 - 11:33am PT
I did call Hard As Nails with the static start 11+, because that's how it seemed to me. That was based on a single attempt, maybe there's an easier way to do it that multiple tries would have revealed. If there's an easier way to do it, or I'm just old, so be it.

What a great thin crack that thing is, doesn't matter what it's rated.

Ratings are pretty much a crap shoot, just ballpark estimates of what to expect. Seems the best approach is to always expect the worst, you never know when you're going to get nailed by someone's sandbag, or a particular problem just won't suit you.

Slap You Silly at 12b, now that's pretty funny. Too bad it isn't just a little harder so it could qualify as a Rubdioux 12b. Sorry Donny.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 11, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Temps should be perfect this weekend.
The Silk Banana
The Silk Banana
Credit: Johannsolo
Unknown
Unknown
Credit: Johannsolo
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
What's with the slab on the right?!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 11, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Woodson, isn't that where the n00bs go to work their way up to real climbs?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
It's where n00bs go to die and hardmen to be humbled! w00t w00t!
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 11, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
If noobys had to start climbing at woodson the crags would be alot less crowded worldwide. I cant count how many "hardmen" have I seen coming off that hill muttering about the ratings, the landings, the brush...as they eat a hearty serving of humble pie.

Dont think so? Come on down, we love visitors.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 11, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
Jon, thats not my route, but i think its one of "those" 5.11+ climbs. I did it once and thought it was really really hard. It also really really hurt, so once was enough for me.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Jan 13, 2013 - 01:23am PT
There is frost on the ground and ice on the road! Capitalizing on the conditions, Mark razed hell. We saw 35+(?) cars and a lot of climbers...kind of exciting. Who's going to be out there tomorrow? Ron? Rick? ...be fun to meet up. Darkmagus?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 02:35am PT
5.12 was the highest grade back in the 80's when we were killing it, and we didnt consider ourselves 5.12 climbers

Say whaaazzizzle there, Krispy Kreme?! Not by any means an all-inclusive list, but all in the bag by '80 - '84:

Aids Victim
Starving In Stereo
Head First In Der Booshes
Lie Detector
PhD
VP's Office
Top Secret File
American Gypsy
Teacher's Pet
Airstream
Undertow
Twin Knobs Mantle
The Sin Eater
etc etc etc

Let's not even go there with the early - to mid '70's stuff you and I know damn well are good 'ol Woodson 5.11c, but Prancers like CG insist are .12 (case in point, '10a on the outside...)

These people. harrrmph.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Jan 13, 2013 - 10:48am PT
What is the twin mantle? And Teacher's Pet by PhD? What's that all about?
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 13, 2013 - 11:08am PT
If noobys had to start climbing at woodson the crags would be alot less crowded worldwide. I cant count how many "hardmen" have I seen coming off that hill muttering about the ratings, the landings, the brush...as they eat a hearty serving of humble pie.

Dont think so? Come on down, we love visitors.

I was bouldering at the Happys a few years back, and got into a friendly conversation with some Bishop locals about Woodson. All of a sudden, things turned sour. They started dissing Woodson like it was some pile of choss, or something. The insults they started slinging at the inanimate objects that cover the hillside were loaded with vitriol.

When you compare the friendliness of the ratings, the landings, the access, etc. of the Happys (which I'm the first to admit is a super fun scene) with Woodson, my unspoken response was, "Hmmm...you got spanked by Woodson, didn'tchya..."
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 13, 2013 - 11:47am PT
I'm there, heading to the top of the hill around 10am. Psyched for today, the weather seems amazing!!!
REIGN 1

Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
Jan 13, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
I always felt Woodson boulder problems were rated for the most difficult move. So if a climb's hardest move was 11.c but maybe had 3 11.c moves it was still rated 11.c
As far as Henny goes......... he couldn't do slap you silly last time I was belaying him. And it's probably really only 11+ Sorry....
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 13, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
(case in point, '10a on the outside...)

I use to repeat this on occasion and even ticked it as my last problem in the '86 contest...and I NEVER was a .12 climber...11+ for sure.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 13, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
One Burly Dude, 1985.

Don't get me started again Bob, but that problem that Greg's on is on the north face of Lonesome Boulder at Santee Boulders (note the highlighted features match perfectly from photo to photo, yet Greg's is tilted to the right a bit. Disregard the climber on the left:


Credit: Truthdweller
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 13, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
I just want you all to know that I am sometimes very f*#king resentful and jealous of your climbing opportunity there. I live in Seattle, and the trouble is, I am not a mountaineer and am way too old to change(59.75yr). Sure, great rock climbers have come from Seattle and that little town across the border to the north, but I don't know how they did it.

Anyway, when I first got back into science I was sent to a protein chemistry meeting in San Diego, and all I could think about was finally checking out Woodson.

As soon as the talks were over, I rented a car and headed up to Woodson. I got there late, bouldered around and had my mind blown --kid in a candy shop!--. I somehow managed to find Robbin's crack (Frye's book?) and I even think the Long(?) cracks, and things that still might not have names. I didn't see another person, no one! This was '93(?). It was wonderful! I slept coldly in the rental car in some little pull off east of Woodson, and bouldered a little in the morning and caught my flight back the next day.

Tangentially and related to that other thread: Luke Freeman, my high school climbing partner, and Rick Piggott climbed together at Woodson and down at Gran Trono Blanco in the '80s.
LMo

climber
San Diego
Jan 14, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Got in my first Woodson day for the year and it was a good one! Conditions were amazing (ice on the road!), company was great, and the climbing was high quality as usual.

Started out on TV Screen, which after two years of reluctantly trying, finally did. This may seem insignificant, but seeing as how this problem has spit me off more than I want to think about, I think the send bodes well for 2013. Mark and Doug mantled around for a bit, eyed the Curtis again, and then found themselves on a roadside obscurity with a bad landing. Next I spent some time trying to figure out some beta for Kurtains for Certain, but really, where does it go? Does it share more than the starting holds and the first sidepull on Uncertainty? Not that this really matters, but I would like to know where the line is supposed to be.

Continuing on a mission to mantle just about anything, Doug and Mark got on Lemon Chiffon, and then to really balance out the "light and fluffy" (matisse) of Lemon Chiffon, we went to Silk Banana and there were good laughs to be had.

Pictures below are of the last climb of the day, some traversing face climb on the big rock just up from Fade to Black. And then of course, another spectacular Woodson sunset.
Credit: LMo

Credit: LMo

Credit: LMo
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
It was definitely a fine day at Woodson, as evidenced by the ice on the road!! I hiked to the top and even saw little accumulations of SNOW up there.

ICE!
ICE!
Credit: darkmagus

Met Doug, Lauren, and another friend at some roadside obscurity with a heinous landing. At the top I hung out for a bit, did a few warm up laps on a slab up there, then did "Woodson Falls" (5.8 hands from the Hubbard guide). Cool climbing with a semi-crappy landing and nice views to the west. Also did the slightly overhanging blocky face climb known in the Hubbard guide as "Prison Yard" (?). I kept thinking, I want to check out the climb that exists on potato chip rock but don't wanna be near a million hikers while doing it. Anyone ever get on that?

After a couple more unnamed problems, a crack and a face climb, I found myself taping up in front of Hamburger crack. That problem is pretty cool! Not sure why I had never done it before. Next stop was Head First in the Bushes, and after flailing on that for a bit, my ego was warmed up for Korean Cowboy, which rejected me numerous times. Although I did feel like I was making progress, it drained my energy! Overall a good day out there!


matisse

climber
Jan 14, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Hey Lauren
did the beautimous lite and fluffy Lemmon Chiffon get the grafitti cleaned off her gorgeous flanks?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
THERE IS GRAFITTI ON LEMON CHIFFON????!!!!!??????
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
K and R must die.
K and R must die.
Credit: darkmagus
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Somebody's gonna die that's for sure.
crøtch

climber
Jan 14, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Speaking of graffiti, there's the '10 graffiti on South Woodson, and '11 and '12 graffiti on Woodson proper facing SR76. Any guess as to where the class of 2013 will be spraying their own monument, and is there a way to stop it?
LMo

climber
San Diego
Jan 14, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Lemon Chiffon is still covered in graffiti.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
I know that ACSD has the resources available (to anyone that wants it) for the removal of graffiti (taginator and such). I need to get to one of those meetings and get started on it.

As far as preventing future vandalism, I've imagined placing a threatening sign at that new board. Something like: "Beware of the rock climbers if you're spray painting. If you're out here vandalizing the place, an encounter with a climber would be much more dangerous than one with a rattlesnake or a mountain lion."
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
Darwin,

Great memory of Woodson, and some more of Woodson history...thanks
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 14, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
Wow.

That grafitti is sad. All I can say is, Welcome to Rubidoux. Something we started having to deal with years ago at Rubidoux, and something I had hoped would never happen at Woodson. Is there new grafitti anywhere else?
matisse

climber
Jan 14, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
:(

Jochen was going to head out there and get it off with taginator but he was out of town. I am sure we can get it cleaned up.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Why Lemon Chiffon, I wonder? Off the road, obscure location, not exactly the kind of nondescript lump you'd expect to get tagged. Jesus Motherf*#king Christ. What's next?!
matisse

climber
Jan 14, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
I think it was K proclaiming his undying love for R, so privacy might have been desirable.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 14, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
ACSD does, in fact, have resources for paint removal, and Woodson is on our radar. We're currently focusing on Santee since it is in much worse condition, and we'll be out there most of the day Feb 10th starting at 8am in a huge effort. Once Santee is cleaned up, hopefully we'll have time/resources to get after Woodson. It takes a lot of organization, time, and man power to remove the paint. If any of you want to come to meetings and organize events, feel free. Leadership in this area would certainly be appreciated and do some good. As it stands, as far as I know, me and one other person are the only ones taking on paint removal at SD county crags, and I have very limited time. So.... who wants to take responsibility to organize the Woodson paint removal?

http://www.alliedclimbers.org/

http://pullharder.org/2011/02/10/mt-woodson-paint-removal/

Josh
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Wait...I hear a train...listen...!


Credit: Truthdweller
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:03am PT
That grafitti is sad. All I can say is, Welcome to Rubidoux. Something we started having to deal with years ago at Rubidoux, and something I had hoped would never happen at Woodson. Is there new grafitti anywhere else?

It seems to be limited to that area in general, along the trail past Lemon Chiffon and to Uncertainty Principle.

That same horrible red and green stuff also appeared on the Painted Boulder, but it was covered by some "neutral" gray paint. A ranger told me that he gave someone the go-ahead to cover up the graffiti with more paint. Not sure if that's the best strategy, I think we should go with the Taginator to get all of it off!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:51am PT
Get it off, for sure. One of the strategies employed by the city at Rubidoux was to paint entire sections of wall with tan paint to hide the grafitti. Needless to say, that just compounded the disaster. Whereas the tagging may have only hit a few holds the remedy covered everything. From bad to worse. Fortunately they later came back and sandblasted some of the areas they had coated, even doing a somewhat decent job of it, but the damage is pretty hard to undo when it gets that large scale.

Lauren, just pick some holds, get left of Uncertainty as soon as possible, then pull the top down. Kurtains is pretty close to Uncertainty the entire way. Maybe someone with a razor sharp memory like Reign 1 (hahahahha) could tell you exactly which holds are shared to start. Then again, that isn't likely to be happening - so just use as few common holds as possible. Who cares. Those lines are really close together. Oh, and by the way: when you're there next get one of those knuckleheads to go up top with a camera and shoot pictures looking down the problem. I'd like to see pictures looking down the thing. Seriously. That is, assuming they can do it without falling off the top and hurting themselves.

As far as Henny goes......... he couldn't do slap you silly last time I was belaying him. And it's probably really only 11+ Sorry...
Sigh. Sad but true.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Got Wyde?

Credit: bvb
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
As near as I can tell covering graffiti with yet more paint is a horrible idea. Better to just leave the graffiti. The disaster that became of "In The Picture" at Roob is a case in point. ugly as sin, and it did nothing for the aesthetics.

Surely there is some king of solvent that will just melt that sh#t off? Has anyone tried Jesso? (sp?)
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
A few weekends ago at the playground.
Not sure what that climb to the left of The Crucible is, but it's a bitch.
Eric on lead
Eric on lead
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Another classic San Diego sunset.
Another classic San Diego sunset.
Credit: dirt claud
matisse

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
it is test tube (keeping with the chemistry theme.)
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
That Everest boulder really has some classics on it that's for sure. I can still remember the first, and only time, I did the OW...the start was called 10c wasn't it Bob, the rest being 5.9?



Good to hear from you Claudio!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
Sheesh, finally some routes I recognize! if I had a dollar for every Woodson route I'd forgotten about, I'd have enough (if somehow I could also come up with 250,000 dollars) to send my daughter to college.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
The disaster that became of "In The Picture" at Roob is a case in point. ugly as sin, and it did nothing for the aesthetics.

Yeap. A nightmare, it's never been the same although it has been cleaned up somewhat.

aesthetics? You must have bumped your head or something.

It's a nice place to visit, or if you're trapped in the urban hell of the Inland Empire it makes a nice escape. Too bad it's so urban with all the associated problems, there's some great rock there. The quality of the problems is also decent. But when it comes to overall aesthetics it can't even start to compare to Woodson. Well, maybe when it's spring (green) and the poppies are out - that's pretty cool.

We need to get this thread back on its rightful topic. I seem to recall hearing that in the days of yore woodson=bvb=woodson. Is that true?
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
bvb, not really that Wyde,

No TR, sharp end



Just some older dude with some bitd photos
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Couple more



Carry on with the current cool stuff
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
We need to get this thread back on its rightful topic. I seem to recall hearing that in the days of yore woodson=bvb=woodson. Is that true?

Absolutely true. For example, it is a little-known fact that the Sacred Concubine Muse of All Things Woodson and I would regularly perform this interpretive Crack Dance, replete with live unicorn sacrifices and crazy monkey sex, in order to conjure up sw0le new crack finds from deep within the Terra Incognito of the chapparal ether. Sort of like a warped yoga incarnation of a Ouija board, for communing with cracked granite orbs. We kept Ron down in our Gimp Cage and brought him along on occasion when we thought we might need a no-neck musclebound thug to wave off the dopplegangers and interlopers looking to snake our finds.

Credit: bvb
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 16, 2013 - 12:28am PT
Whoa. Not sure what to think of that.

a no-neck musclebound thug
Ouch.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 01:29am PT
Gonna open a new Woodson guide service in Ramona. Chakra alignments often improve crack performance!

Credit: bvb
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 18, 2013 - 05:01am PT
was referring to FAs that we rated, bobo. You remember, all those 11+ things you couldnt do? Those. But enough about first ascents, its not right to leave you out of the conversation.

and i like my gimp box just fine ty
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Ron, onea these days you should scan up some of our 1985 MailWar exchanges. Our finest hour, IMHO.

"There goes Bob to the same old 5.11's he has wired."

"He looks bad today. Let's not burn him off on too may new problems."

"Sure, Boys! I can carry us all! Hop on these broad, strong shoulders!"

got a beer?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Looking to try the Longs this weekend!!!!






I don't ever remember this being 5.10c. We always thought it was 5.11, especially on the first ascent, circa 1975, on-sight with no pads and no rope. Don't pitch.

-largo
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
I will bob, that stuff is hilarious and absolutely classic.

Oh and henny, thats just bobs way of showin the luv
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
John, the left one might be 10c, but that wide one is a mother. Ive never heard it called anything but ass-busting 5.11. Kudos doing the FA unroped...
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
Ha! Awesome picture of R. Long's Crack. That's from back when we were working it. A few of us have it pretty wired now, but I agree it's 5.11. Still, it seems MUCH easier than Greg's Crack up the hill which is "only" 5.11+.

There was a lot of talk about paint upthread. If you are a San Diego local, and want to make a difference, please check out THIS SUPERTOPO THREAD about paint removal at Santee.

Josh
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Jan 24, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
There used to be a block at the base of R Longs Crack which was trundled, late 70s. It was definitely easier then, even I could do it.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:50am PT
Keep the eye candy coming...granted it's pretty outside after new fallen snow back here, but I'm really missing Woodson right now..


Credit: Truthdweller

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 09:41am PT


Some ol' guy b.i.t.d...
Credit: Rick A

F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 26, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Thanks for the memory jog Eric Beck,

I know I had done it in the early 70's and it didn't seem that hard,

Now it all makes sense
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:48am PT
If gregs crack is 11+ im a monkeys uncle. More like V5.
Another one of THOSE 11+ deals
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Jan 28, 2013 - 08:26am PT
Truthdweller in NJ? Why are you not surfing?

not my photo... but I am a goofyfoot.
not my photo... but I am a goofyfoot.
Credit: Gunkie
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Gunkie,






























HE'S GONNA DIE!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
If gregs crack is 11+ im a monkeys uncle. More like V5.
Another one of THOSE 11+ deals
Yeah, honest workingman's Woodson 11c. Got any scannin' done lately Rono?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 1, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Anyone 3rd class Walking on Air? Crux at the top. Seminar or Retropulsion, crux down low.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
Not to my knowledge. Only did it once, top-roped it with 'Tusi. It'd be less than lethal with a stack o' foam and some linebacker spotters?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 2, 2013 - 09:00am PT
Stacks of pads are for pussies. Might as well just use a TR.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 3, 2013 - 07:01am PT
Chris Lindner told me at the 2010 shindig that one of his buddies soloed Retro. Don't quote me but I think it's Ethan Pringle:


Ethan Pringle on Grainstorm, 5.12 - Mt. Woodson
Ethan Pringle on Grainstorm, 5.12 - Mt. Woodson

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 3, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Chris' response today:

"Gary! Yeah, Ethan Pringle"
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
unfortunately i cant climb at all
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Feb 10, 2013 - 01:29am PT
HO MAN! Clean, crisp, and cold today. Spent the majority of the day at the Jaws area cruising around on some slabs. Mark did the sit start to the b1 lunge and, along with Johan, polished off I.W.D.F.Y. Then we headed to Stairway which Mark had been wanting to boulder for a while. Definitely wish the days were longer... but I guess long days means warm weather.


get one of those knuckleheads to go up top with a camera and shoot pictures looking down the problem. I'd like to see pictures looking down the thing. Seriously. That is, assuming they can do it without falling off the top and hurting themselves.
easy little feller... Prime conditions for a visit. Check out the holds in person if you can pull on.

henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
hehehe.

Probably couldn't pull onto anything right now. Period. Work has been out of control, but things will improve by end of month.
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Feb 18, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Awesome afternoon session up on the hill today. I had a blast bouldered around with Greg (gdavis?) at the Painted Boulder, Silk Banana, and Jaws area. Then Doug showed up and we did a little recon mission down by Welcome Home. The objective was a traversing tips seam Doug had spotted from the road. What looked like 5.10+ turned out to be solid 5.11 Woodson burl. Classic! We think it may be an FA, but I wouldn't be surprised if this gem had been done BITD. Regardless, fun was had.

Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:04am PT
I think what Mark is trying to say is that, at other areas, it would be 10+. And just to be honest, Johnny pointed it out to me a couple years ago. But like Mark said...good climb.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 20, 2013 - 06:14am PT
Thanks for the spot and beta mark, you made me look like a little baby haha was very very motivating to see you huck yourself at all those bad ass routes. I'll be out there friday AM weather permitting, still have to finish drivin' south! :) Good to hear you guys found a gem out there, couldn't have asked for better conditions.

Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
Psyched for a weekend of good temps!

Here's Lauren on Sickle Crack from last weekend:

Credit: Mark K
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
My long time friend Steve Belford of Poway had me lie-back that thing to the left the last time I was down there.;..speaking of "burl" it kicked my hiney!;
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Here's a dorky video I made last year... kinda fun. Was originally gonna be a gear review but had too much fun bouldering, lol. Didn't really go into the gear too much... but the routes were good!

darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 22, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Always good to see Woodson footage...what's that last problem?

I love those two face problems in that Baby Robbins "corridor", I once climbed a line directly to the right of that fist crack (on the far left), I wonder what others have thought about that one...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
Last one was blackfinger :D
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
All killer, no filler.
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Feb 22, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
Nice video Greg! Glad your getting hooked on Woodson!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 22, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Thanks! I've hardly touched the place, still trying to get good at it its so damn technical its awesome :) I'd like to check out some of the newer stuff down the hill more but there are SO MANY old stuff I haven't even tried I kind of want to try those out first...
LMo

climber
San Diego
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
Mark, Doug, and I (Lauren) ventured into the Riverside area this morning to pick up a camper shell in Pomona. In between picking that up and getting over to the five ten outlet we decided to check out this place I have heard thrown around a few times....Rubidoux!

We only had a couple hours and I have to say, that was plenty for me.....just kidding! It was a beautiful day and I think all of us would be excited to get back up there with someone who knows the hill. We more or less wandered up the road while Mark tried to match up climbs to Mountain Project descriptions on a phone. In our limited time we got in a few climbs, bagged the summit, and enjoyed the surprisingly green scenery.

Here are some pictures from the day

Credit: LMo

The buildings at the top of Rubidoux are way more aesthetically pleasi...
The buildings at the top of Rubidoux are way more aesthetically pleasing than Woodson.
Credit: LMo

LMo topping out some fun thing we stumbled upon.
LMo topping out some fun thing we stumbled upon.
Credit: LMo

Doug starting up another climb next to the first one we stumbled upon
Doug starting up another climb next to the first one we stumbled upon
Credit: LMo

Mark K!
Mark K!
Credit: LMo

But, enough with Rubidoux, a crew of us will be out at Woodson tomorrow, and it is already shaping up to be another excellent day on the hill.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Feb 23, 2013 - 01:02am PT
As Lauren already mentioned, it would be nice to go back with someone familiar with the area. We knew from the brick structures and white cross that we were in the right place, but we just couldn't find anything harder than v2. I'm sure The Chicken will point us in the right direction. If any of you other sandbaggers want in, it could be fun...
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 23, 2013 - 01:10am PT
The last ones are five niner, 10+. Welcome to Rubidoux.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 23, 2013 - 01:23am PT
V2 is mid .11. What did you actually top out?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
So what rated 10a at Woodson is V2? Names please.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 26, 2013 - 11:57am PT
So you didn't even do (oops, try) Middle of the Road Madness? There you were at the lower lot and you didn't even move left a few feet?

Where are the pictures of the Octopus, Flabob, Coathanger, The Ex, A Major Concept, Muzzleloader, In My Time of Dimes, Saran Wrap, Mother Fuc$er, Bullethead, Highbrow, Co-pilot, Frostbite, Pinkbug, Snowblind, Mantlelectomy, or In the Picture?

Not to mention the Wild West area with The Popgun, Psychoanalysis, Hair Trigger, White Bowser, Bullseye, 10b On the Outside, The Long Rider, Way Beyond the Past, etc...

I don't even see any pictures of giveaways like Teflon, Autopilot, Funky Later, or Hardy Boys.

Are you sure you went to Rubidoux? If indeed the mountain was found it sounds more like the time was spent wandering around in denial.

OK, work is starting to ease up. As soon as I can get some callous back we'll see about a little trip.

The mountain is nice when it's green. Were the poppies out down in the Wild West?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Let's not undersell the Hardy Boys. Worthy Woodson warm-up! Hey, I've done 5 of the problems on Henny's list! Practically a local! w00t w00t
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Feb 26, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
Like Doug said, we were looking for the hard stuff, but it all just looked too easy to even bother; nothing harder than V2 by the looks of it. Finally, we just threw our pads down, scrambled around for a few minutes, then called it a day. Rock quality was pretty decent though, I guess.

Oh, and that flay-bob thing, or whatever you call it, just looked like steep hiking.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 26, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Ah, bvb, can't slip anything by you can I? Hardy Boys is the single decent crack at rubber dick. Without a cheat stone pretty good. My guess is they avoided it because it would never do for Woodsonites to get shut down on a crack at the duck, of all places. Truth be known though, Hardy Boys is kind of a wanna be Woodson gig, albeit worthy.

What 5? Pink Bug, Hardy Boys, and ?, ?, ?

Hardy Boys
Hardy Boys
Credit: henny

Hair Trigger - pre pads, with the little piece of carpet, sheesh.
Hair Trigger - pre pads, with the little piece of carpet, sheesh.
Credit: henny

Stumbled across this, couldn't resist posting it. Face climbing just doesn't get much better than this. One of the top 5 (maybe 3?) pitches at Suicide (imo.) Killer rock quality.

Touch the Earth - before it became ?
Touch the Earth - before it became ?
Credit: henny

Sorry for the brief thread drift. Back to the regularly scheduled Woodson pictures and stories. Please post up. Work has made me stir crazy, I need the stoke.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
Mark...
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
Nice pic of Hades. I told you we should not use that last bolt (just for Knocking) and place one from the no hands rest just before you move up and left. Looks like a TR or tension traverse to me.
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Ah, just messing around Henny. Truth be told, I was impressed by both the rock quality and wealth of dimes up there. Maybe most impressed by the lack of brush and the requisite thrashing that goes along with it. That may be the one thing Rubidoux has on Woodson. I think a proper tour of the place is in order.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Honestly, it was a super nice day in Riverside. The grass was green, the sun was shining, and the sky was blue. We all agreed we probably left with the wrong impression.

We only had enough time to bag the summit and climb at the island for a few minutes, but we tried to ID as many of the climbs as we could; although, that wasn't many. We did make a point of finding Flabob, however. Mark and I had a vague idea of where it was so we ran off traversing the hillside until we found it. The two surrounding dark streaks gave it away, but what really alarmed me was the landing...pretty serious infrastructure.

So yea, lets get a tour going. Some of the stuff in the photos look cool.

Not to derail the thread, but yea, Darrell that lead is tainted. All that tension from due right is really making those techy moves a whole lot easier. Too bad an onsight FA free solo is no longer in the cards
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Yes, initially it does provide something of a TR which doesn't matter given how easy it is moving left. A minor amount of rope resistence may also exist initially due to normal dynamics of traversing rope run, again, before the actual sequence starts. I don't see it as much of an issue for various reasons, so I'm still against re-arranging the protection there. I like the cleaness of not having a bolt in the middle of that section of gold rock.

A tour is in order shortly.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
When you are by yourself with one pad, it's nice to have a flat landing. The rock directly in the landing is a leg breaker so I built it up flat. We can always roll away the rocks but it is a nice landing now. I'd like to fill it in with soil and plant some flowers around the perimeter. I guess if I lived anywhere close, I would.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 26, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Back to Woodson, is there going to be some sort of get together (Shindig) this year as time is running out and the temps will be rising? I would think some "local" would put something together.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
What 5? Pink Bug, Hardy Boys, and ?, ?, ?

In My Time Of Dimes, In The Picture...huh, maybe just 4. I did somthing else that took several trips and was as hard/harder than Pink Bug or Dimes. I must have done some others, but my gracious, friendly, encouraging "tour guides" were rather evasive about grades and names, as though these were throwaway chossheaps were we ticking on our way to the "good stuff". And this was all mid-70's - mid-80's, long time ago. Did Teflon before it got covered in paint (ugh).

If there is one art the Rubes did master (too bad about cracks), it was the ruthless, merciless, no-quarter-given sandbag.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 26, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
That problem was done with no pads for a long time. Not that I would want to go back to no pads, or that it's a sticking point.

So, BITD (sigh) I'm hitting the duck for a quick afternoon session in the Wild West. Who should I run into at the down road parking but a Woodson interloper trying to snake a new problem. In spite of being equiped with all the latest technical enhancements (alcohol, files, etc) it hadn't really gone all that well. Ah, but I digress. Anyway, after a short exchange of pleasantries Dan decided he had time to visit the Wild West with me. He wanted a nice easy intro so we settled on the Black Crack, a classic 10b seam. Managing to keep my ducks lined up I stayed on and took up a bird's eye perch to observe. Dan commented on how good the problem looked, and how psyched he was to do something on the easier side. He fired up to where the seam thined down, stalled out, and then mumbled something about it really being 10b? As he almost topped, he was suddenly gone. I watched as he disappeared and finally hit the dirt. There was a giant cloud of dust as he rolled down the hill, with an arm/leg occasionally briefly flashing into view. As he laid there I heard a faint, 10b?, 10b???, 10b!!! Ratings were just part of the game.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Really, you guys were born to be the Social Directors on one of the tonier cruise lines, right? Such a warm embrace for every passenger, er, visitor, ah, victim on the good SS Roubidoux.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Feb 26, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Like the tables weren't turned when going to Woodson? Oh, please.

What went around came around.

Bedford and Powell had it down to an art form. Everybody else just tagged along.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 27, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Saw this on the other thread, which side is this on? Looks awesome!
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Feb 28, 2013 - 01:18am PT
What "other thread" greg? Go to MP and look at Sherwood forest.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 28, 2013 - 03:49am PT
I think it was the 2011 or 2012 thread? Thanks! I'll check it out.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Mar 1, 2013 - 04:10am PT
John, i have tried to arrange a woodson funfest the past two years, last year i personally emailed every freaking person i could, including most of the locals who were responsible for putting up the hardest stuff on the hill during the "second wave" explosion of development (early 80s - mid 90s), people who i still climb with for cryin out loud, and got nothing but apathy and weener dog excuses. You saw the turnout last year, maybe 12-15 people, and i publicized that i was going to have ropes hanging all over the place for anyone to use, i mean what more could you ask for? Greg brought down a bunch of ropes and there were so few people that we didnt even take them out of the car. I invited, cajoled, threatened, shamed and coerced people that i thought would be down for a reunion on the hill for sure, and they all poodled out. I guess i was wrong in thinking that the prospect of good climbs and good friends all in one place would be its own attraction, that a carnival wasnt necessary. Buncha pussies. If thats what it takes, somebody else can do it. Tell me the date and i will be there
henny

Social climber
The Past
Mar 1, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Carnival?

When?
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 12, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
The last "carnival" had quite the cast of Carnies...


BurntToast

climber
CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
What size rope is good for Woodson for top rope and lead climbing? I have done some "boulder" problems and would like to top rope or lead some climbs next (to do list below). I checked the height of several of the climbs on MP, and they were all 35 feet or less, so I would think that a 30 meter rope would be more than enough.

Milkbar, 5.9
Girls Crack, 5.10
Airplane crash crack, 5.6
Robbin's crack, 5.10a
Manuel's crack, 5.10
Black Finger, 5.10a/b
Sickle Crack, 5.8
Out of Sight Crack, 5.9
Maria's Crack/Delight, 5.9
Big Grunt, 5.10a
Rockwork Orange, 5.10b
Monkey Crack, 5.10c
Left Long's Crack, 5.10d
Crucible, 5.10c
Digits Delight, 5.10d
Jaws, 5.10d/11a
Lemon Chiffon, 5.11a


splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:12am PT
airplane crash crack 5.6
if we are talking about the same thin/tips (more or less) crack that is around 25 ft long, it ain't 5.6! that was a solid .10, as i recall.

edit: i heard it referred to as simply 'airplane crack' though, so it could be a different one. i think it might have been climbed/named just after the tragic TWA crash in North Park ('78) though!
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
A 30 m rope works great for pretty much everything on the hill.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:17pm PT


Something looks amiss here.... :)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
like what?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
btw, great footage of scuffy on maria's!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 28, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
GDavis, looks like the climber is on Baby Robbins but the background is nowhere near correct. Is it as simple as a flipped negative? Even so, I can't quite figure what the picture would be shot from, but I don't know the hill that well.
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Mar 28, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
GDavis Beautiful photo regardless!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 28, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Haha yup that's me on Baby Robbins :3 took my friend whose a pro photog and he felt it looked better flipped :) lol.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 31, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
edit: i heard it referred to as simply 'airplane crack' though, so it could be a different one. i think it might have been climbed/named just after the tragic TWA crash in North Park ('78) though!


Backside of Starving In Stereo, Airplane Crack, 5.10b

,

This one'll stop you in your tracks at the top.


PSA crash, (People Scattered All Over), Flight 182, Monday, September 25, 1978, I was (16) living in Clairemont, and in an Architecture class @ Madison High School (Mr. Furuji, teacher). I asked to be excused because my father was returning from San Francisco (Flight 182 origin) that same day. Fortunately, it wasn't his flight!
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Apr 3, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Amen Gary, that woodson get together was a good time. Need you to come back and put on another one!

Theres a really obvious low angle 5.6 crack on a huge boulder thats behind and above the california night area, called airplane crash crack because a private plane crashed right at the base of the rock sometime in the late 70s. There used to be little pieces of debris from the crash scattered in the brush nearby. The crack is kind of a groove as i remember (and i dont remember too well these days), i think like #3-4 friends would work. Its a real secure 3rd class too. 50 feet of rope will lead anything on the hill, but youll need at least 80' to tr the tall stuff.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 8, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
This thread is sitting WAY too far back...


I just watched a video of my little boy styling the seam on the northeast end of Dogpile Rock at Santee on YouTube and got homesick...man I miss San Diego. I'll help anyone who wants to step forward and put another fun fest together next year, or just keep me in mind as a resource.
p-owed

Trad climber
Ramona ca
Apr 25, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Anyone know where the hanger on sunday afternoon whent. Bolt and nut their hanger gone. Just one not two?
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 1, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Got out there on Saturday to give some friends a tour of the hill, and it was RIDICULOUSLY HOT! We hung out at the summit for a bit, did a few warm up problems, then started walking down. While we were hanging out at the top, my friend Steven went off by himself to check out the infamous Potato Chip rock. He came back with this photo:

Steven Wheeler mantels Potato Chip Rock.
Steven Wheeler mantels Potato Chip Rock.
Credit: darkmagus

There are a couple others, including him fully hanging from the thing. I'll have him send it to me and then post it here! Has anyone had any experience with this? Is there an established climb on that rock? Something called "Ride The Lightning" or no?

Anyway, we had a great day despite the heat. I took them to Big Horn and we bouldered a couple of the routes. We hit up Shawn's Knobs because it's in the shade (and it's one of my personal favorites):

Shawn's Knobs.
Shawn's Knobs.
Credit: darkmagus

Another stack of problems, some greasy mantels and some slabby faces, followed by some futile attempts on "I Would Die For You" (ughhh) and we were heading back down. I think we spent about 6 hours on the hill and we were all out of water and thrashed by the end of the day!
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Jul 1, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
darkmagus,

on those hot days, you gotta get inside The Big Grunt. Nice and cool in there.



edit: Airplane Crack was one of the first routes I ever climbed on Woodson.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 1, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
That's a good tip! We actually looked at it on the way by, but figured it would be all hot 'n greasy in there... damn!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 1, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Theres a really obvious low angle 5.6 crack on a huge boulder thats behind and above the california night area, called airplane crash crack because a private plane crashed right at the base of the rock sometime in the late 70s. There used to be little pieces of debris from the crash scattered in the brush nearby.

Ron, I remember (if my memory is serving me correctly) that the president of Beechcraft crashed on the south side of Woodson in the '70s. I started climbing there in '75. I remember finding all kinds of debris from the crash up there, including shoes. Kind of unsettling for a kid of 17 or 18 who hadn't yet seen much in the way of death.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jul 6, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Yeah, i always got a creepy feeling walking around that area, you can feel death around you.

Havent looked at the woodson thread in months and there are only a handful of posts since then...so nothing is happening on the hill?
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
Jul 6, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Re: climbing at woodson when its hot. Woodson is climbable year round if you keep the following in mind:

 dont even start up the hill until 2pm or so in summer. The walk up will kill you when the sun is beating down in the morning. Also, a nice breeze kicks in every day around 1pm, which makes it much more pleasant.

 plan on climbing on the east side of the hill, where shade abounds.

 avoid climbs that are in the brush or are surrounded by trees. Some trees are good for shade, but too many stifle air circulation. Shade isnt nearly as cool when its in dead air.

 cracks are greasier and friction suffers in warm weather, so dont plan on doing any real hard face climbs. Its not impossible, but can be frustrating.

 early evening can be a really nice time to climb, even after a hot day, but remember that rattlesnakes come out when it cools down, so walk heavily and keep an eye to the ground when in the brush late in the day. Snakes blend into the ground cover very well, so watch your step. If you encounter one, just turn around and find another way around. If you startle or threaten a snake it may attack. Otherwise they want to get away from you as bad as you want to get away from them.

 Take plenty of water, but please account for your water bottles and pack them out. It always helps if you take any trash that you encounter out with you too.

 Your best bet is to go up late and stay low on the hill.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 28, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Bump for Woodson!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 11, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Super-Bump... The season is ON!!!

I've been out a handful of times and will be 1-3 times a week this winter! Have a lot of projects and things to explore, and am putting together little videos of the classics.

Hope to see ya out there!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 11:26am PT
temps look primo today...wish I was there...


Is that guys name really Steve Wheeler doing that mantle? For I went to school with a guy by the same name, and this is what he owns, and performs in today:



When I first read that above thread and zoomed in on him I thought it was Steve Belford of Poway!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 18, 2013 - 11:43am PT
wooooot!

if you didn't feel hamburglers was 10a, try robbins next :) let me know next time you head that way! And the flake thingy was bat crack and it's BURLY.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Haha.... "Some horrible 11-something flake that destroys forearms"

Betcha it was Bat Flake, 5.10d....;-)



Psst! Burch3y...
California Night is calling your name, it's only 11b (hehehe)!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 11:49am PT
Hamburger Crack, 10b, if that helps the humility any (wink).
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
Whoa, sounds like you found Firefly, 11c?


"Got my butt kicked"

Transparency, that's good! How many times did I come off the Hill feeling shredded? Ahahahaha!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
I posted a thread way back on here about my first attempt on Firefly with the infamous Mr. Rick Piggot belaying. I couldnt get past the traverse either, even after hangdogging two or three attempts. I'm surprised Rick even let me stay up there that long! "Are you through yet?" is what I remember hearing after my silly attempt. Rick methodically dissected it to the anchors after I stepped aside.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
It's not FOUND very much, lol! Hats off to you though for trying. What was the guys name that gave you the tour?
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Lol, I wasn't there, but I betcha he grunted at least ONCE!

Jason? Hey, that's my son's name! No, he's no longer in San Diego, and doesn't climb. But hey, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt though, so do me a small favor, slip him that twenty for me, would ya?


Suggestion: change your Contacts to Woodson Jason, for, if you're like me, you'll forget Jason's name real soon, but you'll never forget Woodson!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Something new every now and then...pretty cool:

http://www.vimeo.com/46589051
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Nov 18, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
Woodson is finally getting the attention it deserves...http://www.earthtraveling.com/11-amazing-places-you-need-to-visit-once-in-your-life/
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
Of all things for Woodson to be recognized for eh Elliott? Hey, how have you been, where are you these days?
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Nov 19, 2013 - 12:11am PT
Hi Gary, great to see you're still active on the hill! Since graduating I'm now living up in the bay area. Still climbing, but missing Woodson every day! Enjoy!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 19, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
Elliott, I've been back in Jersey since '011 and in the heaviest, out of shape condition in my life, not good. Also, had a spontaneous/traumatic (not sure) herniated disc that occluded 50% of my spinal canal Oct '12...humbling to say the least! I'm just an armchair climber these days, reliving memories.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 26, 2013 - 12:47am PT
A foggy morning one November...



Just uphill from the Baby Robbins cluster, don't click if ya don't want the beta :)

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 2, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Heading up the hill Tuesday (tomorrow) before the rain, then again on Thursday and Friday - temps in the low 50's! Whaddya doin' everyone!? Get out there!

Lizards Corner
Lizards Corner
Credit: GDavis
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
New to the hill?

Check out my little video guide :)



as well as a blog post following me around

http://gregdotdavis.wordpress.com/2013/12/12/virtual-tour-mount-woodson-classic-cracks/

Enjoy!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
I was just thinking about this thread, and like magic it pops up. I can't remember doing anything at Woodson this year. Which means I'm either more senile than I thought, or I didn't actually make any trips. Whatever, hate it when that happens. And here it is, almost Woodson 2014.

Got an email from a Brit friend that wants to drag me around up there for a few days next month. Problem is, we don't have a tick list.

The pictures I've recently seen of that Firefly thing look pretty inviting. Should that be on the hit list? Am I going to be able to find it?

So what's good, what's new, and what is happening up/down there?

And no, I don't want to hear about some bizarre mantel/mantle circuit.

Johann, you ferreting out new stuff?
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
At first I thought that was a REQUEST for a mantel circuit! I'm always on the lookout for that next obscure Woodson blob to wrastle with...

The "Hippy Cave" area has some newer hard slab stuff. Johann showed me a couple problems over there that were HARD even though I only bouldered the start (and didn't get very far).

I'd be glad to show off what I know, I have a pretty good idea where most things are!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 12, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
Cool, thanks. Looked it up. Rasta and Patchouli faces. I think I may have walked under those with Johann before they were even tried. Problems noted.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 12, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
So Firefly, somewhere below the Ogre? Facing downhill? Tried to find it one time and somehow missed it. How long is it?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 12, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
Heading to the hill tomorrow, hoping to get some good stuff in with screwed up feet. Damn blisters! I'll have a pair of crash pads, I have a few taller things in mind :D
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Darrell, if you're at the base, facing the Ogre, turn to your right (north) and follow Burch's beta. When you get atop a boulder with shrubs growing on top of it and contemplating which way to go, you're probably standing on top of it. The route is on the northeast face and is probably a total of 40' of climbing? It's been so long that I probably screwed something up but that's what I remember.

Have you done/tried the Ogre? Although a wide start, the fingers at the top have your name written all over them! How about The Dragon? Man, either variation is gorgeous! And, what about Pit Bull, the diagonal flake on the overhanging face that Johnny was photographed on?

I'd get an early start, grind on up and over the summit to ride the Dragon first, head on over to Firefly, come back and contemplate the Ogre, then head back towards the summit for Pit Bull. You should be thoroughly warmed up to start heading down the road and have the whole mountain to pick and choose from!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
Heck, before heading back down the road, bee line up and over the summit and down the east ridge trail to the Out Of Sight crack. A classic 5.9 hand crack with a 180* view!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
The Dragon
"Great line, awsome rock, blue sky, can it get any better?" <br/>
"Great line, awsome rock, blue sky, can it get any better?"

Credit: pelles

Firefly
Credit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/firefly/105802053

The Ogre
Credit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/ogre/105802850

Pit Bull
Credit: Weinberger collection

Out Of Sight
Credit: illusiondweller
&#40;a bit lower angle than depicted here&#41;
(a bit lower angle than depicted here)
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
This list contains the woodson climbs that I consider as *best in class,* hope you get a kick out of it.

Woodson *Best in Class*
Woodson *Best in Class*
Credit: Doug Tomczik

Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Contenders that didn't make my list:

5.8/5.9 finger cracks on The Widow, Bereft boulder
Rexrode cracks (Cat Crack, 10c shallow corner, Rexrode Inn, etc)
Eric's Crack
Hard as Nails
Lie Detector
Poison Oak Crack
The Ogre
Cameron's Traverse
Laker Girls
Greg's Face
Slap n' Tickle
KP's Demise
Bad Boy's From Detroit
Night Vision
Uncertainty Principle
Move Over Junior
Deport Johnny
PhD
Peace of Mind
Retropulsion

And it looks like I might want to add an arete category.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 13, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Hahaha, Slap You Silly is "burl". It seems pretty bizarre that a slabby pseudo arête could qualify as burl but for some odd reason it does seem that way.

Where is HDTV, or did I just overlook it? I'd put that somewhere in there. Classic problem.

Yeah, with the amount of arêtes that Woodson has to offer it does seem that it would make sense to have a dedicated category. The Dragon would likely make the cut.

Lists like that are funny, trying to decide which should make it and which shouldn't. Consensus is just about impossible. Aids Victim is pretty good thin, but probably not quite as good as the ones listed. Sheesh, what about Airstream? Yeah, that's the problem. Pretty soon the list wants to start expanding until it includes everything.
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
Anyone climb the arête on the boulder across the road from double scoop? There's a nasty (and I mean nasty as in doesn't climb well) fingercrack facing the road and an awesome arête on the backside with stacked blocks to access the tr anchor. IMO this problem is way better than dragon arête.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 13, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
I forgot about HDTV.

JonA, good call on those aretes.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 13, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Yeah, the Dragon isn't all that hard but it is kind of striking. Interesting, I wonder if I've ever seen the arête(s) JonA mentioned. Wait, I think I know the arêtes... The main arête can be done either on the right side or the left side? If so, yes, quite good. Clean, and harder than the Dragon
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Yes, and one side of the arête is quite improbable but the friction is just so good. Cool temps definitely help.
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
Also, the starface slabs deserve an honerable mention IMO. These climbs are so very temperature dependent. On a rare 50 degree overcast day they feel 10+ to me. Pretty much any other conditions and they are beyond my meager abilities.
deepnet

Boulder climber
San Diego
Dec 13, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Good to see the Woodson thread resurface!
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Dec 13, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
Yeah Woodson!! Unfortunately, I've only got reposts and old photos...man, I need to make a trip!

These the arêtes?
Credit: eliot carlsen

Credit: eliot carlsen

How bout this arête?
Credit: eliot carlsen
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 13, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Eliot,

January. Mellonhead. Be there.
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
Yes to the first 2 pics. Don't know where the 3rd pic was taken although I'd be psyched to find out.
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Dec 13, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Haha. Henny. Yes. I'm there. Tell me when.

Jon, that 3rd arête is downhill, east of California Night.
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Got it. Thanks.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 14, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
That last picture is in the Hippie Cave area, right? The rope hanging on the right side is on Welcome Home?
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Francisco
Dec 15, 2013 - 01:22am PT
You got it Henny, Welcome Home, one of my favorites on the hill. Now, what's the second rope doing on the left?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Dec 16, 2013 - 12:04am PT
Something hard I tried one day. Need to get back on that one. Got pretty close I think.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Dec 16, 2013 - 12:06am PT
The two faces outside the corridor on the left are very good.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 17, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Maybe these have been posted here already, but I haven't seen most of them from the '86 comp. Taken from MP.com:


Credit: Truthdweller

Credit: Truthdweller


What is this?

Credit: Truthdweller

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 17, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Name this...

Credit: Truthdweller


We know this guy...

Credit: Truthdweller
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 17, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
I always wondered what sat atop that broken foundation up there:

Circa 1936

Credit: Truthdweller
http://www.firetower.org/lookouts/Lookout.aspx?id=519
p-owed

Trad climber
Ramona ca
Dec 23, 2013 - 02:11am PT
the last lookout was torn down in the late 80 early 90. It was green
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