Sickle Crack, Robins Crack, Rockwork Orange, Milkbar, Hamburger Crack, Elsa's Crack, and Out of Sight. A hand full of fun easy Woodson classics from yesteryear, done with good people I found on the Hill this New Years Day 2013. Thank You to all the friendly strangers that shared a rope and good times with me today. Happy New Years Mt Woodson
What is a picture of the Beehive Wall doing in the Woodson thread?
I mean, as awesome as Rubidoux is we shouldn't flaunt it in the face of the Woodsonites, eh? That's something we should never do. Perhaps it was an honest mistake. But if not, well, then.....
Good job. hehehehe.
How can I be sure it's Rubidoux? Just look at all the paint on the rock. Gaack.
Well that explains why I did not for the life of me recognize that festering pile. Praise God!, as Delloosionsmeller wpold say, for his tender mercies.
Awesome photos! I can usually recognize the locations, but what's the problem on bvb's last picture?
That "Pringles" face is gnarly, my cursory attempts did not yield anything. Chips kept poppin'. The more it "cleaned up", the thinner it seemed to get...
That's Eppi on Eppicenter. Or Eppulation. A super sweet super short yoga twister powerefest on the backside of Shawn's Knows, right on the road. I can remember the problems but some of the names get slippery.
Whoa, I kinda thought it looked that problem (I know it as "The Eppulator") but the landing looks way different. Last time I was there I got the beta on that, apparently some road work changed the landing and perhaps the problem? I see it marked as 5.11ish and yet cannot even get started on it (not that that means anything). I think Shawn's Knobs may be the back side (and for me, the climbable side) of that same quartz dike!
Yah eppulator used to be half hidden by a big bush. Whenever we passed that thing id tell greg "theres a problem there" and he'd reply "naw that things a pile, theres nothing there". We never bothered to stop because there was other stuff to climb that wasnt behind a bush, but every time it was the same thing, i swore there was a problem there and he swore there wasnt. I swear he must be clairvoyant, because the very day i planned to finally check it out i meet greg up there and the first thing he says is "wanna see my new problem?" Hes got the bush cleared back and the ankle breaker hole at the base fixed and everything. Heres the funny part. I got on it and sent it and greg says "aw hell, anybody can do it, i thought it was hard" lol. True story.
The ground used to be lower than it is now. Youre right bob-o it was B1 before the shovel jockeys got to it.
For the edification of the generations that have superseded our own, we had a funny rating system for boulder problems back then. 5.12 was the highest grade back in the 80's when we were killing it, and we didnt consider ourselves 5.12 climbers, so when we did something that was at the limit of our ability we called it 11+. There are plenty of 11+ problems at woodson that arent V3 for that reason. When we started doing harder stuff we still couldnt bear to call it 5.12, so we used John Gills "B1" rating instead.
Gill rated his problems B1 (harder than the hardest existing routes), B2 (pretty much impossible for anyone except gill), and B3 (a problem so impossibly difficult that it cant be repeated. A repeat drops it to B2).
Dont confuse our B1 with anything gill did, but thats where we got that designation.
Side note - i emailed John Gill a couple years ago and asked him about the B3 rating. He called it a "volatile substance", only intensifying the mystique around climbing's most exhalted rating ever.
What did you guys rate Hard as Nails BITD? I think I recall Hensel calling it 11+ (not 100 %). I think the static start up to the crimp certainly meets the criteria of 11+ that is harder than V3.
I did call Hard As Nails with the static start 11+, because that's how it seemed to me. That was based on a single attempt, maybe there's an easier way to do it that multiple tries would have revealed. If there's an easier way to do it, or I'm just old, so be it.
What a great thin crack that thing is, doesn't matter what it's rated.
Ratings are pretty much a crap shoot, just ballpark estimates of what to expect. Seems the best approach is to always expect the worst, you never know when you're going to get nailed by someone's sandbag, or a particular problem just won't suit you.
Slap You Silly at 12b, now that's pretty funny. Too bad it isn't just a little harder so it could qualify as a Rubdioux 12b. Sorry Donny.
If noobys had to start climbing at woodson the crags would be alot less crowded worldwide. I cant count how many "hardmen" have I seen coming off that hill muttering about the ratings, the landings, the brush...as they eat a hearty serving of humble pie.
Jon, thats not my route, but i think its one of "those" 5.11+ climbs. I did it once and thought it was really really hard. It also really really hurt, so once was enough for me.
There is frost on the ground and ice on the road! Capitalizing on the conditions, Mark razed hell. We saw 35+(?) cars and a lot of climbers...kind of exciting. Who's going to be out there tomorrow? Ron? Rick? ...be fun to meet up. Darkmagus?
5.12 was the highest grade back in the 80's when we were killing it, and we didnt consider ourselves 5.12 climbers
Say whaaazzizzle there, Krispy Kreme?! Not by any means an all-inclusive list, but all in the bag by '80 - '84:
Aids Victim
Starving In Stereo
Head First In Der Booshes
Lie Detector
PhD
VP's Office
Top Secret File
American Gypsy
Teacher's Pet
Airstream
Undertow
Twin Knobs Mantle
The Sin Eater
etc etc etc
Let's not even go there with the early - to mid '70's stuff you and I know damn well are good 'ol Woodson 5.11c, but Prancers like CG insist are .12 (case in point, '10a on the outside...)
If noobys had to start climbing at woodson the crags would be alot less crowded worldwide. I cant count how many "hardmen" have I seen coming off that hill muttering about the ratings, the landings, the brush...as they eat a hearty serving of humble pie.
Dont think so? Come on down, we love visitors.
I was bouldering at the Happys a few years back, and got into a friendly conversation with some Bishop locals about Woodson. All of a sudden, things turned sour. They started dissing Woodson like it was some pile of choss, or something. The insults they started slinging at the inanimate objects that cover the hillside were loaded with vitriol.
When you compare the friendliness of the ratings, the landings, the access, etc. of the Happys (which I'm the first to admit is a super fun scene) with Woodson, my unspoken response was, "Hmmm...you got spanked by Woodson, didn'tchya..."
I always felt Woodson boulder problems were rated for the most difficult move. So if a climb's hardest move was 11.c but maybe had 3 11.c moves it was still rated 11.c
As far as Henny goes......... he couldn't do slap you silly last time I was belaying him. And it's probably really only 11+ Sorry....
Don't get me started again Bob, but that problem that Greg's on is on the north face of Lonesome Boulder at Santee Boulders (note the highlighted features match perfectly from photo to photo, yet Greg's is tilted to the right a bit. Disregard the climber on the left:
I just want you all to know that I am sometimes very f*#king resentful and jealous of your climbing opportunity there. I live in Seattle, and the trouble is, I am not a mountaineer and am way too old to change(59.75yr). Sure, great rock climbers have come from Seattle and that little town across the border to the north, but I don't know how they did it.
Anyway, when I first got back into science I was sent to a protein chemistry meeting in San Diego, and all I could think about was finally checking out Woodson.
As soon as the talks were over, I rented a car and headed up to Woodson. I got there late, bouldered around and had my mind blown --kid in a candy shop!--. I somehow managed to find Robbin's crack (Frye's book?) and I even think the Long(?) cracks, and things that still might not have names. I didn't see another person, no one! This was '93(?). It was wonderful! I slept coldly in the rental car in some little pull off east of Woodson, and bouldered a little in the morning and caught my flight back the next day.
Tangentially and related to that other thread: Luke Freeman, my high school climbing partner, and Rick Piggott climbed together at Woodson and down at Gran Trono Blanco in the '80s.
Got in my first Woodson day for the year and it was a good one! Conditions were amazing (ice on the road!), company was great, and the climbing was high quality as usual.
Started out on TV Screen, which after two years of reluctantly trying, finally did. This may seem insignificant, but seeing as how this problem has spit me off more than I want to think about, I think the send bodes well for 2013. Mark and Doug mantled around for a bit, eyed the Curtis again, and then found themselves on a roadside obscurity with a bad landing. Next I spent some time trying to figure out some beta for Kurtains for Certain, but really, where does it go? Does it share more than the starting holds and the first sidepull on Uncertainty? Not that this really matters, but I would like to know where the line is supposed to be.
Continuing on a mission to mantle just about anything, Doug and Mark got on Lemon Chiffon, and then to really balance out the "light and fluffy" (matisse) of Lemon Chiffon, we went to Silk Banana and there were good laughs to be had.
Pictures below are of the last climb of the day, some traversing face climb on the big rock just up from Fade to Black. And then of course, another spectacular Woodson sunset.
It was definitely a fine day at Woodson, as evidenced by the ice on the road!! I hiked to the top and even saw little accumulations of SNOW up there.
ICE!
Credit: darkmagus
Met Doug, Lauren, and another friend at some roadside obscurity with a heinous landing. At the top I hung out for a bit, did a few warm up laps on a slab up there, then did "Woodson Falls" (5.8 hands from the Hubbard guide). Cool climbing with a semi-crappy landing and nice views to the west. Also did the slightly overhanging blocky face climb known in the Hubbard guide as "Prison Yard" (?). I kept thinking, I want to check out the climb that exists on potato chip rock but don't wanna be near a million hikers while doing it. Anyone ever get on that?
After a couple more unnamed problems, a crack and a face climb, I found myself taping up in front of Hamburger crack. That problem is pretty cool! Not sure why I had never done it before. Next stop was Head First in the Bushes, and after flailing on that for a bit, my ego was warmed up for Korean Cowboy, which rejected me numerous times. Although I did feel like I was making progress, it drained my energy! Overall a good day out there!
Speaking of graffiti, there's the '10 graffiti on South Woodson, and '11 and '12 graffiti on Woodson proper facing SR76. Any guess as to where the class of 2013 will be spraying their own monument, and is there a way to stop it?
I know that ACSD has the resources available (to anyone that wants it) for the removal of graffiti (taginator and such). I need to get to one of those meetings and get started on it.
As far as preventing future vandalism, I've imagined placing a threatening sign at that new board. Something like: "Beware of the rock climbers if you're spray painting. If you're out here vandalizing the place, an encounter with a climber would be much more dangerous than one with a rattlesnake or a mountain lion."
That grafitti is sad. All I can say is, Welcome to Rubidoux. Something we started having to deal with years ago at Rubidoux, and something I had hoped would never happen at Woodson. Is there new grafitti anywhere else?
Why Lemon Chiffon, I wonder? Off the road, obscure location, not exactly the kind of nondescript lump you'd expect to get tagged. Jesus Motherf*#king Christ. What's next?!
ACSD does, in fact, have resources for paint removal, and Woodson is on our radar. We're currently focusing on Santee since it is in much worse condition, and we'll be out there most of the day Feb 10th starting at 8am in a huge effort. Once Santee is cleaned up, hopefully we'll have time/resources to get after Woodson. It takes a lot of organization, time, and man power to remove the paint. If any of you want to come to meetings and organize events, feel free. Leadership in this area would certainly be appreciated and do some good. As it stands, as far as I know, me and one other person are the only ones taking on paint removal at SD county crags, and I have very limited time. So.... who wants to take responsibility to organize the Woodson paint removal?
That grafitti is sad. All I can say is, Welcome to Rubidoux. Something we started having to deal with years ago at Rubidoux, and something I had hoped would never happen at Woodson. Is there new grafitti anywhere else?
It seems to be limited to that area in general, along the trail past Lemon Chiffon and to Uncertainty Principle.
That same horrible red and green stuff also appeared on the Painted Boulder, but it was covered by some "neutral" gray paint. A ranger told me that he gave someone the go-ahead to cover up the graffiti with more paint. Not sure if that's the best strategy, I think we should go with the Taginator to get all of it off!
Get it off, for sure. One of the strategies employed by the city at Rubidoux was to paint entire sections of wall with tan paint to hide the grafitti. Needless to say, that just compounded the disaster. Whereas the tagging may have only hit a few holds the remedy covered everything. From bad to worse. Fortunately they later came back and sandblasted some of the areas they had coated, even doing a somewhat decent job of it, but the damage is pretty hard to undo when it gets that large scale.
Lauren, just pick some holds, get left of Uncertainty as soon as possible, then pull the top down. Kurtains is pretty close to Uncertainty the entire way. Maybe someone with a razor sharp memory like Reign 1 (hahahahha) could tell you exactly which holds are shared to start. Then again, that isn't likely to be happening - so just use as few common holds as possible. Who cares. Those lines are really close together. Oh, and by the way: when you're there next get one of those knuckleheads to go up top with a camera and shoot pictures looking down the problem. I'd like to see pictures looking down the thing. Seriously. That is, assuming they can do it without falling off the top and hurting themselves.
As far as Henny goes......... he couldn't do slap you silly last time I was belaying him. And it's probably really only 11+ Sorry...
Sigh. Sad but true.
As near as I can tell covering graffiti with yet more paint is a horrible idea. Better to just leave the graffiti. The disaster that became of "In The Picture" at Roob is a case in point. ugly as sin, and it did nothing for the aesthetics.
Surely there is some king of solvent that will just melt that sh#t off? Has anyone tried Jesso? (sp?)
That Everest boulder really has some classics on it that's for sure. I can still remember the first, and only time, I did the OW...the start was called 10c wasn't it Bob, the rest being 5.9?
Sheesh, finally some routes I recognize! if I had a dollar for every Woodson route I'd forgotten about, I'd have enough (if somehow I could also come up with 250,000 dollars) to send my daughter to college.
The disaster that became of "In The Picture" at Roob is a case in point. ugly as sin, and it did nothing for the aesthetics.
Yeap. A nightmare, it's never been the same although it has been cleaned up somewhat.
aesthetics? You must have bumped your head or something.
It's a nice place to visit, or if you're trapped in the urban hell of the Inland Empire it makes a nice escape. Too bad it's so urban with all the associated problems, there's some great rock there. The quality of the problems is also decent. But when it comes to overall aesthetics it can't even start to compare to Woodson. Well, maybe when it's spring (green) and the poppies are out - that's pretty cool.
We need to get this thread back on its rightful topic. I seem to recall hearing that in the days of yore woodson=bvb=woodson. Is that true?
We need to get this thread back on its rightful topic. I seem to recall hearing that in the days of yore woodson=bvb=woodson. Is that true?
Absolutely true. For example, it is a little-known fact that the Sacred Concubine Muse of All Things Woodson and I would regularly perform this interpretive Crack Dance, replete with live unicorn sacrifices and crazy monkey sex, in order to conjure up sw0le new crack finds from deep within the Terra Incognito of the chapparal ether. Sort of like a warped yoga incarnation of a Ouija board, for communing with cracked granite orbs. We kept Ron down in our Gimp Cage and brought him along on occasion when we thought we might need a no-neck musclebound thug to wave off the dopplegangers and interlopers looking to snake our finds.
was referring to FAs that we rated, bobo. You remember, all those 11+ things you couldnt do? Those. But enough about first ascents, its not right to leave you out of the conversation.
I don't ever remember this being 5.10c. We always thought it was 5.11, especially on the first ascent, circa 1975, on-sight with no pads and no rope. Don't pitch.
Ha! Awesome picture of R. Long's Crack. That's from back when we were working it. A few of us have it pretty wired now, but I agree it's 5.11. Still, it seems MUCH easier than Greg's Crack up the hill which is "only" 5.11+.
There was a lot of talk about paint upthread. If you are a San Diego local, and want to make a difference, please check out THIS SUPERTOPO THREAD about paint removal at Santee.
HO MAN! Clean, crisp, and cold today. Spent the majority of the day at the Jaws area cruising around on some slabs. Mark did the sit start to the b1 lunge and, along with Johan, polished off I.W.D.F.Y. Then we headed to Stairway which Mark had been wanting to boulder for a while. Definitely wish the days were longer... but I guess long days means warm weather.
get one of those knuckleheads to go up top with a camera and shoot pictures looking down the problem. I'd like to see pictures looking down the thing. Seriously. That is, assuming they can do it without falling off the top and hurting themselves.
easy little feller... Prime conditions for a visit. Check out the holds in person if you can pull on.
Awesome afternoon session up on the hill today. I had a blast bouldered around with Greg (gdavis?) at the Painted Boulder, Silk Banana, and Jaws area. Then Doug showed up and we did a little recon mission down by Welcome Home. The objective was a traversing tips seam Doug had spotted from the road. What looked like 5.10+ turned out to be solid 5.11 Woodson burl. Classic! We think it may be an FA, but I wouldn't be surprised if this gem had been done BITD. Regardless, fun was had.
I think what Mark is trying to say is that, at other areas, it would be 10+. And just to be honest, Johnny pointed it out to me a couple years ago. But like Mark said...good climb.
Thanks for the spot and beta mark, you made me look like a little baby haha was very very motivating to see you huck yourself at all those bad ass routes. I'll be out there friday AM weather permitting, still have to finish drivin' south! :) Good to hear you guys found a gem out there, couldn't have asked for better conditions.
My long time friend Steve Belford of Poway had me lie-back that thing to the left the last time I was down there.;..speaking of "burl" it kicked my hiney!;
Here's a dorky video I made last year... kinda fun. Was originally gonna be a gear review but had too much fun bouldering, lol. Didn't really go into the gear too much... but the routes were good!
Always good to see Woodson footage...what's that last problem?
I love those two face problems in that Baby Robbins "corridor", I once climbed a line directly to the right of that fist crack (on the far left), I wonder what others have thought about that one...
Thanks! I've hardly touched the place, still trying to get good at it its so damn technical its awesome :) I'd like to check out some of the newer stuff down the hill more but there are SO MANY old stuff I haven't even tried I kind of want to try those out first...
Mark, Doug, and I (Lauren) ventured into the Riverside area this morning to pick up a camper shell in Pomona. In between picking that up and getting over to the five ten outlet we decided to check out this place I have heard thrown around a few times....Rubidoux!
We only had a couple hours and I have to say, that was plenty for me.....just kidding! It was a beautiful day and I think all of us would be excited to get back up there with someone who knows the hill. We more or less wandered up the road while Mark tried to match up climbs to Mountain Project descriptions on a phone. In our limited time we got in a few climbs, bagged the summit, and enjoyed the surprisingly green scenery.
Here are some pictures from the day
Credit: LMo
The buildings at the top of Rubidoux are way more aesthetically pleasing than Woodson.
Credit: LMo
LMo topping out some fun thing we stumbled upon.
Credit: LMo
Doug starting up another climb next to the first one we stumbled upon
Credit: LMo
Mark K!
Credit: LMo
But, enough with Rubidoux, a crew of us will be out at Woodson tomorrow, and it is already shaping up to be another excellent day on the hill.
As Lauren already mentioned, it would be nice to go back with someone familiar with the area. We knew from the brick structures and white cross that we were in the right place, but we just couldn't find anything harder than v2. I'm sure The Chicken will point us in the right direction. If any of you other sandbaggers want in, it could be fun...
So you didn't even do (oops, try) Middle of the Road Madness? There you were at the lower lot and you didn't even move left a few feet?
Where are the pictures of the Octopus, Flabob, Coathanger, The Ex, A Major Concept, Muzzleloader, In My Time of Dimes, Saran Wrap, Mother Fuc$er, Bullethead, Highbrow, Co-pilot, Frostbite, Pinkbug, Snowblind, Mantlelectomy, or In the Picture?
Not to mention the Wild West area with The Popgun, Psychoanalysis, Hair Trigger, White Bowser, Bullseye, 10b On the Outside, The Long Rider, Way Beyond the Past, etc...
I don't even see any pictures of giveaways like Teflon, Autopilot, Funky Later, or Hardy Boys.
Are you sure you went to Rubidoux? If indeed the mountain was found it sounds more like the time was spent wandering around in denial.
OK, work is starting to ease up. As soon as I can get some callous back we'll see about a little trip.
The mountain is nice when it's green. Were the poppies out down in the Wild West?
Like Doug said, we were looking for the hard stuff, but it all just looked too easy to even bother; nothing harder than V2 by the looks of it. Finally, we just threw our pads down, scrambled around for a few minutes, then called it a day. Rock quality was pretty decent though, I guess.
Oh, and that flay-bob thing, or whatever you call it, just looked like steep hiking.
Ah, bvb, can't slip anything by you can I? Hardy Boys is the single decent crack at rubber dick. Without a cheat stone pretty good. My guess is they avoided it because it would never do for Woodsonites to get shut down on a crack at the duck, of all places. Truth be known though, Hardy Boys is kind of a wanna be Woodson gig, albeit worthy.
What 5? Pink Bug, Hardy Boys, and ?, ?, ?
Hardy Boys
Credit: henny
Hair Trigger - pre pads, with the little piece of carpet, sheesh.
Credit: henny
Stumbled across this, couldn't resist posting it. Face climbing just doesn't get much better than this. One of the top 5 (maybe 3?) pitches at Suicide (imo.) Killer rock quality.
Touch the Earth - before it became ?
Credit: henny
Sorry for the brief thread drift. Back to the regularly scheduled Woodson pictures and stories. Please post up. Work has made me stir crazy, I need the stoke.
Nice pic of Hades. I told you we should not use that last bolt (just for Knocking) and place one from the no hands rest just before you move up and left. Looks like a TR or tension traverse to me.
Ah, just messing around Henny. Truth be told, I was impressed by both the rock quality and wealth of dimes up there. Maybe most impressed by the lack of brush and the requisite thrashing that goes along with it. That may be the one thing Rubidoux has on Woodson. I think a proper tour of the place is in order.
Honestly, it was a super nice day in Riverside. The grass was green, the sun was shining, and the sky was blue. We all agreed we probably left with the wrong impression.
We only had enough time to bag the summit and climb at the island for a few minutes, but we tried to ID as many of the climbs as we could; although, that wasn't many. We did make a point of finding Flabob, however. Mark and I had a vague idea of where it was so we ran off traversing the hillside until we found it. The two surrounding dark streaks gave it away, but what really alarmed me was the landing...pretty serious infrastructure.
So yea, lets get a tour going. Some of the stuff in the photos look cool.
Not to derail the thread, but yea, Darrell that lead is tainted. All that tension from due right is really making those techy moves a whole lot easier. Too bad an onsight FA free solo is no longer in the cards
Yes, initially it does provide something of a TR which doesn't matter given how easy it is moving left. A minor amount of rope resistence may also exist initially due to normal dynamics of traversing rope run, again, before the actual sequence starts. I don't see it as much of an issue for various reasons, so I'm still against re-arranging the protection there. I like the cleaness of not having a bolt in the middle of that section of gold rock.
When you are by yourself with one pad, it's nice to have a flat landing. The rock directly in the landing is a leg breaker so I built it up flat. We can always roll away the rocks but it is a nice landing now. I'd like to fill it in with soil and plant some flowers around the perimeter. I guess if I lived anywhere close, I would.
Back to Woodson, is there going to be some sort of get together (Shindig) this year as time is running out and the temps will be rising? I would think some "local" would put something together.
In My Time Of Dimes, In The Picture...huh, maybe just 4. I did somthing else that took several trips and was as hard/harder than Pink Bug or Dimes. I must have done some others, but my gracious, friendly, encouraging "tour guides" were rather evasive about grades and names, as though these were throwaway chossheaps were we ticking on our way to the "good stuff". And this was all mid-70's - mid-80's, long time ago. Did Teflon before it got covered in paint (ugh).
If there is one art the Rubes did master (too bad about cracks), it was the ruthless, merciless, no-quarter-given sandbag.
That problem was done with no pads for a long time. Not that I would want to go back to no pads, or that it's a sticking point.
So, BITD (sigh) I'm hitting the duck for a quick afternoon session in the Wild West. Who should I run into at the down road parking but a Woodson interloper trying to snake a new problem. In spite of being equiped with all the latest technical enhancements (alcohol, files, etc) it hadn't really gone all that well. Ah, but I digress. Anyway, after a short exchange of pleasantries Dan decided he had time to visit the Wild West with me. He wanted a nice easy intro so we settled on the Black Crack, a classic 10b seam. Managing to keep my ducks lined up I stayed on and took up a bird's eye perch to observe. Dan commented on how good the problem looked, and how psyched he was to do something on the easier side. He fired up to where the seam thined down, stalled out, and then mumbled something about it really being 10b? As he almost topped, he was suddenly gone. I watched as he disappeared and finally hit the dirt. There was a giant cloud of dust as he rolled down the hill, with an arm/leg occasionally briefly flashing into view. As he laid there I heard a faint, 10b?, 10b???, 10b!!! Ratings were just part of the game.
Really, you guys were born to be the Social Directors on one of the tonier cruise lines, right? Such a warm embrace for every passenger, er, visitor, ah, victim on the good SS Roubidoux.
John, i have tried to arrange a woodson funfest the past two years, last year i personally emailed every freaking person i could, including most of the locals who were responsible for putting up the hardest stuff on the hill during the "second wave" explosion of development (early 80s - mid 90s), people who i still climb with for cryin out loud, and got nothing but apathy and weener dog excuses. You saw the turnout last year, maybe 12-15 people, and i publicized that i was going to have ropes hanging all over the place for anyone to use, i mean what more could you ask for? Greg brought down a bunch of ropes and there were so few people that we didnt even take them out of the car. I invited, cajoled, threatened, shamed and coerced people that i thought would be down for a reunion on the hill for sure, and they all poodled out. I guess i was wrong in thinking that the prospect of good climbs and good friends all in one place would be its own attraction, that a carnival wasnt necessary. Buncha pussies. If thats what it takes, somebody else can do it. Tell me the date and i will be there
What size rope is good for Woodson for top rope and lead climbing? I have done some "boulder" problems and would like to top rope or lead some climbs next (to do list below). I checked the height of several of the climbs on MP, and they were all 35 feet or less, so I would think that a 30 meter rope would be more than enough.
if we are talking about the same thin/tips (more or less) crack that is around 25 ft long, it ain't 5.6! that was a solid .10, as i recall.
edit: i heard it referred to as simply 'airplane crack' though, so it could be a different one. i think it might have been climbed/named just after the tragic TWA crash in North Park ('78) though!
GDavis, looks like the climber is on Baby Robbins but the background is nowhere near correct. Is it as simple as a flipped negative? Even so, I can't quite figure what the picture would be shot from, but I don't know the hill that well.
edit: i heard it referred to as simply 'airplane crack' though, so it could be a different one. i think it might have been climbed/named just after the tragic TWA crash in North Park ('78) though!
Backside of Starving In Stereo, Airplane Crack, 5.10b
,
This one'll stop you in your tracks at the top.
PSA crash, (People Scattered All Over), Flight 182, Monday, September 25, 1978, I was (16) living in Clairemont, and in an Architecture class @ Madison High School (Mr. Furuji, teacher). I asked to be excused because my father was returning from San Francisco (Flight 182 origin) that same day. Fortunately, it wasn't his flight!
Amen Gary, that woodson get together was a good time. Need you to come back and put on another one!
Theres a really obvious low angle 5.6 crack on a huge boulder thats behind and above the california night area, called airplane crash crack because a private plane crashed right at the base of the rock sometime in the late 70s. There used to be little pieces of debris from the crash scattered in the brush nearby. The crack is kind of a groove as i remember (and i dont remember too well these days), i think like #3-4 friends would work. Its a real secure 3rd class too. 50 feet of rope will lead anything on the hill, but youll need at least 80' to tr the tall stuff.
I just watched a video of my little boy styling the seam on the northeast end of Dogpile Rock at Santee on YouTube and got homesick...man I miss San Diego. I'll help anyone who wants to step forward and put another fun fest together next year, or just keep me in mind as a resource.
Let us know!