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survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:08pm PT

But we are NOT at the crags...

But this is where I LEARNED about Woody's accident, and Lynn's accident, and Largo's accident, and Owens Gorge, and and and and.....

Roxy

Trad climber

CA Central Coast

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:08pm PT

this is a worthy PSA.

thanks, DMT

philo

Trad climber

Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:15pm PT

Can't we all just hit a bong? Uh i mean check yer nots!

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:18pm PT

Dean's a daggum PITBULL today!!!

I actually LOL'd. Did you know that research shows that most people who type LOL don't actually LOL at all?

Snowmassguy

Trad climber

Calirado

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:21pm PT

I am now going to ALWAYS do a partner check. Also, I am going to test my partners to make sure they have less than 5 nanograms of fog in their systems before I tie in with them.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:24pm PT

You've got a good sense of humor Locker, and always come back for more in the banter box.

I like that in a climber.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:31pm PT

You can mis-mail the brownies over here next time dude. I have a friend who knows a guy who asked about.....

I'm a post sleuth. Where'd this one come from?

"This accident was initiated by a communication breakdown and finalized by not following good proceedure"...

Worth REPEATING...

Call it the...

"Woody Check" or "Just-a-check"...

But ALWAYS...

CHECK and Communicate with your PARTNER...

ninjakait

Trad climber

a place where friction routes have velcro

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:37pm PT

Locker I think Dad would say something to the effect of:

"Seems to me that it is sage advice to remind those reading here since you all seem to spend more time online than outside."

Just saying... What Would Woody Do? :)

Snowmassguy

Trad climber

Calirado

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:37pm PT

I pretty much triple check every time. I always felt like if I was going to bite it , it would happen doing something stupid.

neversummer

Trad climber

30 mins. from suicide USA

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:39pm PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:42pm PT

Checking yourself and partner is fuking SUPER IMPORTANT!!!...

But doing it HERE, is pretty much USELESS...

Do it where it really counts!!!...

Phuk man, last I checked, (which I do often) nobody was advocating checking each others knots online you shoelace checkin' Knucklehead!!

Wait, .....one of your laces is undone.....

10b4me

Boulder climber

Somewhere on 395

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:53pm PT

I have a sense of humor, and would happily climb with Locker any day.

so would I, but only if he shared :p

locker, check yourself, and your partner, or don't.
to paraphrase the late Rob Slater, "either way you win"

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Dec 11, 2012 - 02:59pm PT

Safety check? Is that like a quick safety meeting?

Valerio

climber

Dec 11, 2012 - 03:08pm PT

holy words DMT, especially in the indoor walls where occur many climbing incident.

Valerio

labrat

Trad climber

Nevada City, CA

Dec 11, 2012 - 03:14pm PT

I seem to climb with people who face the climb, put shoes on, tie in, and then look back and say "you good.....climbing".

No chance to see the knot until I stop them and ask them to show me the knot. I wish I could say I check every time before they leave the ground but it does not always happen.......

Thanks for the reminder. I will do better.

I have had a partner arrive at the first belay with a harness not properly doubled back. Scary!

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Dec 11, 2012 - 03:43pm PT

Like Cragman and Alan Rubin, I caught a partner just as he was leaning out to start a rappel with only one rope through his ATC

I feel I saved a life when 3 of us were on a cramped perch preparing to rap, the girls boyfriend was in between me and his girl who was squatting on her heels and preparing to rap. He was yap yap yap. I stopped him mid yap with a finger up in his face and a verbal "EXCUSE ME". I squeezed my head around him to check her just as his girl was unclipping her daisy in preparation to leaning back. I immediately stopped her when I noticed that although the ropes were through the device, and the biner was locked and through the ropes, the biner wasn't attached to her harness...AR ALL! She would have augered into the dirt. I spent the rest of the time on the perch berating and verbally discussing this very issue and other safety things until she was down and off and it was his turn to rap.

As far as climbing untied, I have almost done it, maybe 35 years back. One of the stronger climbers in the state and I were taking turns trying to lead some unclimbed crack that looked to be at least 5.12. (he could lead 5.12 and wasn't getting up this one) I'd made a great run at it and lowered off exhausted and pumped out of my mind. Buddy started enthusiastically shouting "get back up there man - you had it you had it YOU GOT IT! So after catching my breath, I did, not noticing that I'd almost completely untied when I was on the ground in all the excitement. I got back up and was just under the hard part and noticed the floppy rope...opps, it was partially tied enough so that as I lowered/downclimbed the 5.11 part (I wasn't going to lower off on it the way it looked) it stayed tied.

I'm with Dingus. I always double check myself, and my partner.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Dec 11, 2012 - 03:47pm PT

I've posted this before, but my closest call was probably the time at the Needles, after lowering off a failed lead, I followed the same pitch with an unfinished knot. I seriously thought about calling take, but mercifully pushed through. J saw what was up and rather than panic me, kept mum as I neared the belay and then grabbed my belay loop and clipped me in when I was within reach. I sat at the belay and cried, and then we ended the trip and went home. I've felt really differently about taking and lowering since then, and even if I checked on the ground, I still often check myself before letting go, at least at the beginning of a gym sesh when I'll be on the rope a lot.