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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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I feel your pain Guyman. 70 meter ropes while good for sport climbing and places like IC are a damned nuisance for multi pitch climbing.
No shizzle.
I don't mind a long rope for a day of close to the road sport that was designed around such a thing, but hauling a 70, and the extra weight for a day on a multi-pitch that was designed around something else is a DRAG, so to speak.
And no, all of us don't have the cash to have multiple ropes and multiple racks for all these "genres."
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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What a drag --- 50m was cool, 55ma little extra for safety but you starting to get a bit of rope drag --- 60m and i'm at my limit of comfortable drag --- 70m WTF.
I see folks with all this money spent on light gear & then they drag along a 70m rope.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
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Good post Ron.
But what can we do?
NOTHING?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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70mm rope is not heavy if you use a 9.2mm.
I've seen most of you people on the lead with huge racks of sh!t weighing a ton.
Then you complain about a few extra ounces for a 70meter rope.
So stupid ......
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TFSTFU
Trad climber
Utah
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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Frumy it's a god damned m not mm.
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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70mm = 7cm = .07m
pretty short rope for most climbs
edit to add a picture of my new 70mm rope...don't know the diameter, but it is wicked light
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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OK.... I need all you other PIE EATERS.... who ever you are to know this fact:
The climbs in Pine Creek, are not rap bolted, except the ones that are.
But Back on topic... a 80 meter rope is just plain stupid, IMHO.
Why not buy 100 meters of rope, cut it in half, and use as doubles!
Problem solved, full circle.
Ron... great idea! chop the NOSE down to one pitch.
But what if I wish to be lowered?????
Where are they going to put the Musseys???
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Funny...I also tend to think the extra meters are great for multipitch climbing. You can link more pitches and climb faster!
Cry me a river about the weight. A typical 9.6 mm rope weighs around 60 g/m. So a 70 m rope, being 10 m longer, weighs 600 g. 600 g = 1.33 lbs The average American turd weighs about a pound. So I guess this is only a problem if you have not taken a dump that morning, or ate a particularly big breakfast.
ok...i need to get back to work...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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I agree. Linking pitches is the way to go. The extra mobility far outweighs the couple extra pounds. If short pitches are unavoidable though, hauling the extra slack sucks... 6 of one,'half dozen of the other. This is where the quiver concept comes in. Use the right tool for the job.
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cowpoke
climber
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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"on belay" struggle grunt -fart- Off Belay,, cmon up!
OK, I'm on, but pull in some of that slack!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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Yep if you ever climbed a nice long 70m pitch you would probably start shopping for an 80. Climbing is fun, belaying is not. Longer pitches = less belaying.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.
Do you guys know what you sound like?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".
No, this issue is not 'stupid.' This issue is personal preference. Some people like thicker ropes some people like longer ropes, some prefer doubles, or whatever. I understand Guyman, but this is for sure a 'First World Problem' LOL. Sometimes you need a 70M/2 60s, or w/e to rap a specific route, this is the way it is! Sorry.
It is up to an individual to decide which rope THEY want, and up to them to pick routes they want to do. Up to FA party to decide where to place rap stations or put in bolts for pro, or for belay stations. If one wants to climb their route, it is their problem to get appropriate gear (whatever that is).
I like 70s for linking pitches. I would like to have a thinner 70m for for alpine climbs with short approaches (like Bugaboos or Hulk in CA), thick 70 for fixing 2 pitches on a wall with one rope (if possible), or for owens river gorge/indian creek cragging, but now I have a thick 60m rope/doubles and am just fine with what I have. Want does not mean need.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".
Absolutely not.
Obviously one can't lead a 2,000 ft. pitch even with tiny cord.
Many areas and pitches wander more, with more trad pro ( and more weight) required.
Carry the right tool for the right job is great advice, but some folks just can't afford a huge number of tools.
So what is the tool that most effectively covers the greatest number of jobs is the real question.
Please don't treat others like they're stupid.
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".
If it was that simple, all of us would just have long ass ropes wouldn't we?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Good point chief.
But:
This is not the gym.
I didn't say a damn word about the gym, and it's lame to even try that connect the dots.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Amen, Rob
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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Are you having a bad day at the office Guy???
No not at all, but, The Chief, when you greated me with this:
C'mon Guy.... jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez!
I sort of figgured you were. ;>)
and Vitality... your right, but I like my 50m doubles at about 9.0mm,
I can lead with them at the same time, thus no one drags a cord behind.
;>) be happy
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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I have tried both 60 and 70 for multi pitch and have found a 60 to be more efficient when all factors are weighed.....no pun intended.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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Shouldn't we just be thankful that someone put up these SPORT routes for us to enjoy? If you don't have a 70 or don't want to buy one, use 2 shorter ropes like Werner said...
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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Ha ha. We must all be bored today to argue about something like this...funny.
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