70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 148 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
But a 60 won't...right? I remember being there once with a rope that was too short, and I have never owned anything shorter than a 60. My point was that many classics need either a longer rope or two ropes and this is not solely an issue brought up by long modern sport climbs.

Lol, tough question. When I led it, I was unable to get down with a 60. Friend connected our other rope to the end of one I was on. But last weekend I was at the same crag and a couple was able to get down with stretch on something they claimed was a 60M. I would use a 70 though :)
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
Wow, poor Guyzo. Quite the shitstorm unleashed upon him for a simple observation/grouse. Like that never happens on this site.

Personally, my current rope is OLD and when I get around to finally replacing this winter, it'll be a 70. Sure they're heavier, but skinny. It'll still weigh less than my old 10.5 x 60 m.
ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
as a being with short arms and legs...i can definitely feel the difference between coiling a 60 and a 70. Actually takes me a measurably longer time to get it all neat. Feels heavier too, which totally slows me down on the approach and decsent.

This is all because I'm a weakling newb trying to train up, so I'll always take the rope. Hopefully the 80 will get popular and I can start training for realzzz!

after all, how else can I keep up my 'sherpa' image to keep the tourons from asking me inane questions?

heheh

cheers

LS
msiddens

Trad climber
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
different strokes.........personally I love the single 70 to get down but then again more bolts and all that.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
On a serious note, I really enjoy Tai's routes at Pine Creek, and having mussy hooks and being able to rap with a single 70 is quite civilized and saves the hassle of tagging a second line.

edit: Same with Austin's routes as well, and Rick's, and everyone else doing development up there seems to be doing a top notch job. Kudos to all of those developing routes up there...
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
In all seriousness my newest rope is a 60 meter 8.9mm - a few pieces of gear and lightweight harness and it all ends up being very light and perfect for mixed soloing. I don't notice it tied onto my back.
I actually like a 30m thin chunk for alpine soloing in the Rockies
I dont like 70 meter ropes either and have owned a few - just to much rope for most applications and I dont climb bolts routes so its not an issue usually.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 11, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
Credit: philo
dave

climber
Earth
Dec 11, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
pssst, 70 is the new 60
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 11, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
I feel your pain Guyman. 70 meter ropes while good for sport climbing and places like IC are a damned nuisance for multi pitch climbing.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 08:30am PT
Jim gets IT.....

Going to go rope shopping, thank you-all for the comments, advise, jabbs, etc..... I just love the TACO climbers.

Thanks.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 12, 2012 - 09:01am PT
Last year on After Seven I accidently connected p2 and p3. No problem with a 70m rope. A couple next to us was on After Six, and the leader, half way p3, asked me how long my rope is and how much rope I had left. I said it’s a 70m rope and about 5m left. “Sh!t, mine is a 60m” he says. I say “why did you buy such a short rope?”. He says “Yeah, what I was thinking?!”, climbs up several feet, and starts building a hanging belay a few feet below us. We all had a god laugh. We had identical ropes except of the length.
dave

climber
Earth
Dec 12, 2012 - 09:36am PT
Its kind of like skiing or surfing. You have a quiver of tools, in this case different length ropes, to choose from that will best suit your goal.

If it snowed 3 ft, and you were on your old straight 210's would you bitch that there was too much snow or would you get with the times and get some real skis?


Fletcher

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 12, 2012 - 09:56am PT
There's a different tool for every job. You can always improvise, but YMMV.

Longer ropes are going to tend to be appreciated on sport routes. Maybe not so much when you're placing trad gear and having to trek a ways to get to the climb.

But geez guys, at the end of the day, the gear helps you but it's still you who is going to get the job done. Not the other way around. Or in other words, "That's a really nice $10,000 bike, but on its own it won't help me beat Wiggins."

Now, that said, as someone with an Irish last name who grew up amongst many New England Irish, I new a lot of guys who had only one tool in their quiver and used it for all jobs, from the delicate to gross destruction:

Credit: Fletcher

The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Dec 12, 2012 - 09:56am PT
If you don't like the pie, you don't have to eat it.


Lot's of pies in the sky.

C'mon Guy.... jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez!




PS: These new multi-pitch mixed lines that are coming to light in PC ARE NOT RAP BOLTED! All were put up on lead and have been well thought out and done over time. I know as I am the one that drilled some of them AFTER the bolt locations were extensively worked out on TR over a period of weeks and months by a slew of folks and the FAist.

Again, if you do not like the pie, you don't have to eat it. But as it stands of late, most if not all the folks that have ventured onto many of these new lines have nothing but fabulous after climb comments regarding them. Single 70m rope and all.


Back when I got into this gig called climbing, 150's were the norm.... just saying GUY!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 12, 2012 - 09:58am PT
In the BITD daze Earl Wiggins climbed in the Black with a 300' 9mil. He could do incredibly long pitches quickly or double it up when it got spicy.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 10:06am PT
The Chief.... I never said... Rap Bolt, at all. Please re-read if confused.

So yes I know 150 goldline was the sh#t... I still have one in the old climbing box.

150 was a long one too, by the way, the Old Timers used 140's

But what is the point of a 70?

They do come up short when you need to come down...

Have a nice day.... please.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 10:16am PT
I feel your pain Guyman. 70 meter ropes while good for sport climbing and places like IC are a damned nuisance for multi pitch climbing.


No shizzle.

I don't mind a long rope for a day of close to the road sport that was designed around such a thing, but hauling a 70, and the extra weight for a day on a multi-pitch that was designed around something else is a DRAG, so to speak.

And no, all of us don't have the cash to have multiple ropes and multiple racks for all these "genres."
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Dec 12, 2012 - 10:22am PT
The Chief.... I never said... Rap Bolt, at all. Please re-read if confused.

Not confused at all Guy. That "Rap Bolt" point was for the edification of other pie eaters on this thread.

Again, if one does not like the pies presented on the menu, move onto another pie house and eat that which fits your taste buds and utensils.


Oh yeah, 80's are a hot selling item these days next door as well as other retail climbing shops.

Just saying.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 10:25am PT
What a drag --- 50m was cool, 55ma little extra for safety but you starting to get a bit of rope drag --- 60m and i'm at my limit of comfortable drag --- 70m WTF.

I see folks with all this money spent on light gear & then they drag along a 70m rope.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 12, 2012 - 10:26am PT
All of this of course is getting a bit ugly considering some routes recieve NEW anchors at belay stations not on the original ascent.
MOST of the older stuff was established with 150 foot ropes. Why are climbers so in a hurry these days that they drag 200 feet or more up a route, yelling to not be heard and having to re-establish belays is beyond me. Whats next, 3000 foot ropes to NIOP (Nose in one pitch)???
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