70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???


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Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
Last year on After Seven I accidently connected p2 and p3. No problem with a 70m rope. A couple next to us was on After Six, and the leader, half way p3, asked me how long my rope is and how much rope I had left. I said it’s a 70m rope and about 5m left. “Sh!t, mine is a 60m” he says. I say “why did you buy such a short rope?”. He says “Yeah, what I was thinking?!”, climbs up several feet, and starts building a hanging belay a few feet below us. We all had a god laugh. We had identical ropes except of the length.

Dec 12, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Its kind of like skiing or surfing. You have a quiver of tools, in this case different length ropes, to choose from that will best suit your goal.

If it snowed 3 ft, and you were on your old straight 210's would you bitch that there was too much snow or would you get with the times and get some real skis?


Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
There's a different tool for every job. You can always improvise, but YMMV.

Longer ropes are going to tend to be appreciated on sport routes. Maybe not so much when you're placing trad gear and having to trek a ways to get to the climb.

But geez guys, at the end of the day, the gear helps you but it's still you who is going to get the job done. Not the other way around. Or in other words, "That's a really nice $10,000 bike, but on its own it won't help me beat Wiggins."

Now, that said, as someone with an Irish last name who grew up amongst many New England Irish, I new a lot of guys who had only one tool in their quiver and used it for all jobs, from the delicate to gross destruction:

Credit: Fletcher


Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
In the BITD daze Earl Wiggins climbed in the Black with a 300' 9mil. He could do incredibly long pitches quickly or double it up when it got spicy.

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
The Chief.... I never said... Rap Bolt, at all. Please re-read if confused.

So yes I know 150 goldline was the sh#t... I still have one in the old climbing box.

150 was a long one too, by the way, the Old Timers used 140's

But what is the point of a 70?

They do come up short when you need to come down...

Have a nice day.... please.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
I feel your pain Guyman. 70 meter ropes while good for sport climbing and places like IC are a damned nuisance for multi pitch climbing.

No shizzle.

I don't mind a long rope for a day of close to the road sport that was designed around such a thing, but hauling a 70, and the extra weight for a day on a multi-pitch that was designed around something else is a DRAG, so to speak.

And no, all of us don't have the cash to have multiple ropes and multiple racks for all these "genres."

Trad climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
What a drag --- 50m was cool, 55ma little extra for safety but you starting to get a bit of rope drag --- 60m and i'm at my limit of comfortable drag --- 70m WTF.

I see folks with all this money spent on light gear & then they drag along a 70m rope.


Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:28pm PT
Good post Ron.

But what can we do?


Dec 12, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
70mm rope is not heavy if you use a 9.2mm.

I've seen most of you people on the lead with huge racks of sh!t weighing a ton.

Then you complain about a few extra ounces for a 70meter rope.

So stupid ......

Trad climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
Frumy it's a god damned m not mm.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
Whats next, 3000 foot ropes to NIOP (Nose in one pitch)???

Dec 12, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
70mm = 7cm = .07m

pretty short rope for most climbs

edit to add a picture of my new 70mm rope...don't know the diameter, but it is wicked light

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
OK.... I need all you other PIE EATERS.... who ever you are to know this fact:

The climbs in Pine Creek, are not rap bolted, except the ones that are.

But Back on topic... a 80 meter rope is just plain stupid, IMHO.

Why not buy 100 meters of rope, cut it in half, and use as doubles!

Problem solved, full circle.

Ron... great idea! chop the NOSE down to one pitch.

But what if I wish to be lowered?????

Where are they going to put the Musseys???

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Funny...I also tend to think the extra meters are great for multipitch climbing. You can link more pitches and climb faster!

Cry me a river about the weight. A typical 9.6 mm rope weighs around 60 g/m. So a 70 m rope, being 10 m longer, weighs 600 g. 600 g = 1.33 lbs The average American turd weighs about a pound. So I guess this is only a problem if you have not taken a dump that morning, or ate a particularly big breakfast.

ok...i need to get back to work...
Big Mike

Trad climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
I agree. Linking pitches is the way to go. The extra mobility far outweighs the couple extra pounds. If short pitches are unavoidable though, hauling the extra slack sucks... 6 of one,'half dozen of the other. This is where the quiver concept comes in. Use the right tool for the job.

Dec 12, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
"on belay" struggle grunt -fart- Off Belay,, cmon up!

OK, I'm on, but pull in some of that slack!

Dec 12, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Yep if you ever climbed a nice long 70m pitch you would probably start shopping for an 80. Climbing is fun, belaying is not. Longer pitches = less belaying.
The user formerly known as stzzo

Sneaking up behind you
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Longer pitches also often means more gear.

I enjoy belaying on multipitch. Relax and enjoy the view.

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
In which the crusty old has-beens further flog yet another long-dead horse into oblivion.

Do you guys know what you sound like?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 12, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
This entire issue is just plain.... "stupid".

No, this issue is not 'stupid.' This issue is personal preference. Some people like thicker ropes some people like longer ropes, some prefer doubles, or whatever. I understand Guyman, but this is for sure a 'First World Problem' LOL. Sometimes you need a 70M/2 60s, or w/e to rap a specific route, this is the way it is! Sorry.

It is up to an individual to decide which rope THEY want, and up to them to pick routes they want to do. Up to FA party to decide where to place rap stations or put in bolts for pro, or for belay stations. If one wants to climb their route, it is their problem to get appropriate gear (whatever that is).

I like 70s for linking pitches. I would like to have a thinner 70m for for alpine climbs with short approaches (like Bugaboos or Hulk in CA), thick 70 for fixing 2 pitches on a wall with one rope (if possible), or for owens river gorge/indian creek cragging, but now I have a thick 60m rope/doubles and am just fine with what I have. Want does not mean need.
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