70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2012 - 12:29am PT

Wow... good to see ya Nick and Kris... and everyone else.

So, yes this topic started out as a little bitch of mine. When Kris told me he returned from Pine Creak and had done these fab climbs, but you need to have a 70m ... I started thinking cause its time to purchase a new cord because nobody will use mine! Ropes cost a lot, but I don't mine paying but I don't wish to buy 3 different set ups.

Lots of you have advocated 70 because you can do long pitches, and this is true.... to a point of nonsense.(3,100 ft cord for the Nose)

It was pointed out that a x.x 70m is light.... I agree, how can you argue?

Also, the fact that at Multi-pitch sport areas 70 is standard.

What has not been pointed out is this: Longer pitches means fewer Belays that take up valuable time to set up, break down.

The "cons" seem to be that a 70 will not allow one to do the raps needed.

This is my major issue

So after reading every post I reckon I have learned this:

Not one rope length, or diameter is best, rather different ones will do a better job given the situation.

So that being said, I hope that the folks doing FA's will be kind enuf to inform the public about what length cord they used.

Because it will suck when I try to get off something when I have my 2 70m cords and the FA's used 2x 100m ropes to get down.

Oh yea This is my vote for the best reply to this topic.

the point being missed:
the whole rope this or that is a marketing decoy to get you to buy more and more expensive ropes. You can get an excellent 9.8 60m rope for just under $100. I spent $85 on my last one a month ago. It will be sturdy and wear well. You can get a bicolor double dry 9.8 70m for $250-$290, you will get much less time on it before it wears. I've stopped buying them.

Edit: +1 for doubles

The Chief

climber

Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites

Dec 13, 2012 - 12:55am PT

Rick,

I did not suggest using the doubles there.

Tit for Tat Kris.

I did not imply you did.

Point, had you done so you would of encountered the clusterfk when you pulled them two thin 60 thin lines. Oh, you did on Three Hour Arete. Never mind.

So that being said, I hope that the folks doing FA's will be kind enuf to inform the public about what length cord they used.

Ah, they do in PC Guy. Thus the foundation of this thread that you initiated.

A friend of mine just returned from the east side and he reported that there are new very cool sport climbs up in Pine Creek and elsewise.

One thing though…. All these new climbs are about 35 meters from the anchor to the dirt.

So if this is true, I need to start using a freaking 70 meter rope, I hate those things.

Of course it is true... they told you it was. So either get or borrow a 70 or bring your doubles or don't get on em.

Simple.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Dec 13, 2012 - 01:09am PT

Not a clusterf*#k, a brief delay but less than optimal none the less.

When you rap 3 Hour with a 70, do you rap from the top of the route to the top of P2 in one go? If so the same thing could happen with a 70 as happened to us. One end fell across into the gulley on the far side of the arete and got caught on something there. We never saw what it stuck on because Dan pulled it free with some effort.

We got off in two raps, the top of P2 to the ground pulled easily with a bit of care to avoid the bushes up there.

They are very fun routes and the best way to do them, as designed, is with a 70.

Oh, I'll take a tit over a tat any day..;-)

MisterE

Social climber

Dec 13, 2012 - 01:13am PT

86 is the new 70.

Yer slackin' with the rope-wah.

Greg Barnes

climber

Dec 13, 2012 - 01:30am PT

Thought this would be about some new runout multipitch slab routes put up with 220' pitches...then it would be "MANDATORY" not just inconvenient...

Jebus H Bomz

climber

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh

Dec 13, 2012 - 01:47am PT

Echoing the right tool for the job riff once again, I remember using my gym rope for a day spent blasting through a couple of different shortie crags on the North shore of Tahoe. It felt awesome to have just the right amount of cord, no more and no less. It was just right for the tallest climbs of around 50 feet high without pulling any cord through for the TR follow. Coiling the rope was cake.

Then again, leading a 70m pitch feels just as awesome as you get lost in the rhythm of climbing.

I went to El Potrero Chico in 2009 and it seemed the majority of climbs were set up to be rapped with a 70m, and linking pitches is pretty much standard.

Other areas pitch out perfectly with a 50m or 60m, especially terraced climbing with scrambling in between.

It just is what is, fellas. It's like complaining about a hammer not being a screwdriver. It depends on whether or not you have nails to pound.

Personally, I'd rather roll with 60m doubles, it solves so many problems. But we Americans have never really adopted that practice, and I'd have to break in too many of my partners to their use. We like our Lone Ranger ropes, our psyche being too much the rugged individualist. Only we can't agree to what size we want that handsome buckaroo to be. Tall drink of water? Short and stout dynamo? Yeah, this length and girth trip we've been exploring here gets... pretty brokeback, wouldn't you say?

edit:

Thought this would be about some new runout multipitch slab routes put up with 220' pitches...then it would be "MANDATORY" not just inconvenient...

Good call. That would have moved this bitchy gripe into genuine debate territory ;).

johnokner

Trad climber

Dec 13, 2012 - 07:34am PT

My 8.1 ropes, 9.2 rope and 10.2 rope are all 70m more wall to cover

The Chief

climber

Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites

Dec 13, 2012 - 08:53am PT

When you rap 3 Hour with a 70, do you rap from the top of the route to the top of P2 in one go?

Negative Kris.

I go to the next stance just below the top. When I pull, I pull hard right so the tail end drifts towards the rt wall and not into the gully.

BTW: Get the green light this morning to start slow runs and so far so good to jump back onto the wall/ice in two weeks.

Spoke to Kevin D. yesterday morning. He says hi and is himself getting back into the groove after his horrific knee ordeal. Sheeeeeeeeeese. Now that was a bad gig for him.

BTW: Doubles on any of them frontage PC slab lines would just be a nightmare. Far too many limbs and bushes to get hung up on.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Dec 13, 2012 - 09:29am PT

Use the appropriate length for the climb you're on. More interesting to me have been the advances that have led to smaller diameter ropes. I now use an 8.9 single for sport and a 9.2 for trad multi pitch. Length is all about preference, diameter changes are a function of improved technology.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Dec 13, 2012 - 12:05pm PT

regardless of what diameter Stoney point could always use a good rope donation.

my first rope was a bluewater which was 50m.

guyzo donini has said good stuff.