Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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the only problem i have is when older routes are retro-anchored to accommodate longer ropes. TOTAL bs..
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Good point chief.
But:
This is not the gym.
I didn't say a damn word about the gym, and it's lame to even try that connect the dots.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Amen, Rob
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
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Are you having a bad day at the office Guy???
No not at all, but, The Chief, when you greated me with this:
C'mon Guy.... jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez!
I sort of figgured you were. ;>)
and Vitality... your right, but I like my 50m doubles at about 9.0mm,
I can lead with them at the same time, thus no one drags a cord behind.
;>) be happy
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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I have tried both 60 and 70 for multi pitch and have found a 60 to be more efficient when all factors are weighed.....no pun intended.
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
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I'm with Donini...the 7O can suck it
Better to simul a bit on a short cord..yayayaya
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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Shouldn't we just be thankful that someone put up these SPORT routes for us to enjoy? If you don't have a 70 or don't want to buy one, use 2 shorter ropes like Werner said...
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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No, we should twiddle our thumbs online instead ;).
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Ha ha. We must all be bored today to argue about something like this...funny.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Having the second trail a cord is the worst of all possible options, a recipe for an epic anyplace where the wind blows...
I like doing traditional multipitch with 8.5x60M doubles. 200 ft pitches seem like plenty, 200 ft raps are great.
Seems like there's two different arguments here for the 70. On the one hand there is the business of linking or doing longer pitches. Yeah I saw Mat Samet and Mike Reardon do Atlantis (a 4 pitch 5.11 Needles classic) in two pitches with a 70. Extra drag etc was not a factor for them since they put in about two pieces on each pitch. I don't tend to climb like that, and the regular belays on that route are fine with me. And with my doubles if it rains I am off way faster than with one 70.
On the other hand there is the business of setting up routes with a bunch of 35M pitches to rap with a 70. In some cases this might make sense as dictated by the features of the route but in a lot of cases this just makes a four pitch climb into seven or so.
My .02 is that if you want to set up your sport climbs for long ropes more power to you. Think twice about the multipitch though, in a lot of cases you're actually making artificially short pitches to avoid the need of two ropes (assuming the best descent is by rappel.)
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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the point being missed:
the whole rope this or that is a marketing decoy to get you to buy more and more expensive ropes. You can get an excellent 9.8 60m rope for just under $100. I spent $85 on my last one a month ago. It will be sturdy and wear well. You can get a bicolor double dry 9.8 70m for $250-$290, you will get much less time on it before it wears. I've stopped buying them.
Edit: +1 for doubles
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TFSTFU
Trad climber
Utah
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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85 bucks? What did u get a used static that was found on the "real nose"?
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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nope, brand new spanky Eldrid.. do your research, bud and save a few bucks
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Enthusiast
Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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One person mentions sport climbing and this becomes a total bitch fest.
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
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Dec 12, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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I'm with Donini and Riley on this one. F*#k the 70's.
-JR
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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I climbed the Polish route on the hulk in 3 pitches with no drag thanks to my 80M rope. 80 meters brings you exactly to perfect belay ledges each time. It was effing awesome.
I say bring on the nano-engineered dental floss- 300M of feather weight line that self-untangles, tells you how much rope is left in a sexy voice, and advises you when to runner a piece. I'm going to set all sorts of routes with it, and all of you are going to get panty-twisted all over again.
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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300m superlightweight? I'm totally into the 250m superlight though, now I have to buy a new 300m?
-JR
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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Sport climbing is lame, anyway. Non issue.
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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I have 50's, 60's and 70's and use each when the situation calls for it...
Claiming one is better than the other seems dumb to me...
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Dave Kos
Trad climber
Temecula
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Dec 12, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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I don't think any length can be declared better/worse or optimal. The issue is that there is now a proliferation of climbs and rappels configured for various rope sizes.
When I first started climbing in the early 90's, there was really only one size: 50m. One didn't need to "know" what size rope they needed or were using. The uniformity made things a little simpler.
Rope length is now another parameter that must be known/communicated in guidebooks etc. At a minimum this "problem" will be an occasional inconvenience to most of us, on rare occasions it could be a contributing factor in accidents.
But the genie is out of the bottle. There will never be a "standard" length again, if there ever really was one.
Just pay attention when rapping and lowering, like we all should do anyway.
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