70 meter ropes MANDATORY???? WTF???

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crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
Shouldn't we just be thankful that someone put up these SPORT routes for us to enjoy? If you don't have a 70 or don't want to buy one, use 2 shorter ropes like Werner said...

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
No, we should twiddle our thumbs online instead ;).
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Ha ha. We must all be bored today to argue about something like this...funny.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Having the second trail a cord is the worst of all possible options, a recipe for an epic anyplace where the wind blows...

I like doing traditional multipitch with 8.5x60M doubles. 200 ft pitches seem like plenty, 200 ft raps are great.

Seems like there's two different arguments here for the 70. On the one hand there is the business of linking or doing longer pitches. Yeah I saw Mat Samet and Mike Reardon do Atlantis (a 4 pitch 5.11 Needles classic) in two pitches with a 70. Extra drag etc was not a factor for them since they put in about two pieces on each pitch. I don't tend to climb like that, and the regular belays on that route are fine with me. And with my doubles if it rains I am off way faster than with one 70.

On the other hand there is the business of setting up routes with a bunch of 35M pitches to rap with a 70. In some cases this might make sense as dictated by the features of the route but in a lot of cases this just makes a four pitch climb into seven or so.

My .02 is that if you want to set up your sport climbs for long ropes more power to you. Think twice about the multipitch though, in a lot of cases you're actually making artificially short pitches to avoid the need of two ropes (assuming the best descent is by rappel.)
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Dec 12, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
the point being missed:
the whole rope this or that is a marketing decoy to get you to buy more and more expensive ropes. You can get an excellent 9.8 60m rope for just under $100. I spent $85 on my last one a month ago. It will be sturdy and wear well. You can get a bicolor double dry 9.8 70m for $250-$290, you will get much less time on it before it wears. I've stopped buying them.

Edit: +1 for doubles
TFSTFU

Trad climber
Utah
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
85 bucks? What did u get a used static that was found on the "real nose"?
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
nope, brand new spanky Eldrid.. do your research, bud and save a few bucks
Enthusiast

Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
One person mentions sport climbing and this becomes a total bitch fest.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
I'm with Donini and Riley on this one. F*#k the 70's.




-JR
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
I climbed the Polish route on the hulk in 3 pitches with no drag thanks to my 80M rope. 80 meters brings you exactly to perfect belay ledges each time. It was effing awesome.

I say bring on the nano-engineered dental floss- 300M of feather weight line that self-untangles, tells you how much rope is left in a sexy voice, and advises you when to runner a piece. I'm going to set all sorts of routes with it, and all of you are going to get panty-twisted all over again.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
300m superlightweight? I'm totally into the 250m superlight though, now I have to buy a new 300m?



-JR
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:04pm PT

Sport climbing is lame, anyway. Non issue.
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:04pm PT


I have 50's, 60's and 70's and use each when the situation calls for it...

Claiming one is better than the other seems dumb to me...

Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
I don't think any length can be declared better/worse or optimal. The issue is that there is now a proliferation of climbs and rappels configured for various rope sizes.

When I first started climbing in the early 90's, there was really only one size: 50m. One didn't need to "know" what size rope they needed or were using. The uniformity made things a little simpler.

Rope length is now another parameter that must be known/communicated in guidebooks etc. At a minimum this "problem" will be an occasional inconvenience to most of us, on rare occasions it could be a contributing factor in accidents.

But the genie is out of the bottle. There will never be a "standard" length again, if there ever really was one.

Just pay attention when rapping and lowering, like we all should do anyway.



The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
I have 50's, 60's and 70's and use each when the situation calls for it...

Claiming one is better than the other seems dumb to me...

BAM & BINGO!

The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Dec 12, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
8.5x60M doubles

Kris, had you used them on any of the routes in PC that you enjoyed, that would have been the biggest clusterfk and shet wrapped up in the small pinions and other bushes after each pull that, welll ...
cowpoke

climber
Dec 12, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
Conspiracy, perhaps?

Mandatory retirement age for judges in PA = 70!
http://blogs.wsj.com/law/2012/11/14/pennsylvania-judges-sue-over-mandatory-retirement-provision/

Mandatory IRA distributions = age 70!
http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/money/perfi/columnist/block/2011-03-28-april-1-ira-deadline-your-rmoney.htm?csp=34

Mandatory 70 mpg movements!
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=546_1218617246

And, now, climbing rope length...just sayin.
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
But for CHP and many other state workers in CA, the retirement age has gone down over time.

Do they use shorter ropes also?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 12, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
My first rope was a 40m Goldline.

When I bought a 90m 9mm Edelrid bicolor in 1974 I felt like Superman.
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Dec 12, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Seems to me it all depends. Most of time I have been really happy to climb on a 70. Smith has all these really fun multi-pitch sport routes that you can climb with a rack of draws and a 70 then rap off after after 4-7 pitches of fun. At most of the traditional places I climb ,I like the extra rope to extend a pitch to a nice ledge, link pitches, use the rope for setting up all the anchors or set up a top rope on nearby stuff just to put in some miles. (Guy remember doing all the routes around the great circle on a 70?) On routes that require full length raps to get off, doubles are the tool of choice, although I find them a pain in the rear. For alpine or long routes with plenty of ledges a 60 is great, hell even a 40 would work. Lots of those old routes were put up with a 120 ft goldlines.
Come on up Guy and we can pull out the good stuff.
Credit: Nick
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