Is 5.11 really that hard

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 94 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
How hard 5.11s are depends on how much you are climbing.

I used to send, when I weighed 166. Now I am 235, so the 5.11s are elusive except for slab.

If you can onsight 5.10 at Devil's Lake you should be able to crank 5.11 somewhere, but not Carderock.

If you are plateaued. Here is my advice.

If you know how to climb pretty well, already, work on your cardio. (A group of four climbers were going on a trip, the one who climbed the least beforehand did the PX-90 DVD. His friends gave him sh#t, but he performed the best.) I also climbed better personally, especially on steep ground, when I processed the O2 better.
Do a fingerboard routine, gradually working up to it so you don't get injured. (I have a friend who was in medical school and didn't have time to climb at all, but was disciplined with his Metolius hang board. We went out climbing and he could still do 5.11c)
Climb a lot at easier grades for endurance, technique and rhythm.
Boulder. I can't go too high, or I go splat, but it is fun and you learn a lot about physics and movement. Helps your onsight ability in the long run.
Diet, a work in progress for me, SteveA knows of which he speaks. On his advice I'm going to check out the Zone diet. Just got a couple of books on the subject.

Keep it fun!
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:50pm PT

"That is the typical response by an old person who can't shred the gnar anymore"...

I could never "shred the gnar"...

Not even sure what the fuk you are refering to...

But I can still hit into the ll's or at least I could up until a month back...(TR'd... didn't want to chance snapping my OLD and brittle bones)

I assume I still can...

LOL!!!...





What's the fuk is the "GNAR" again???...

moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
I don't care about numbers, but if you can climb .11, you are safer on .10 routes. Your climbing menu is bigger too.

I impoved my climbing skills by losing waight, bouldering in the gym, and out door climbing Be careful, I also broke my ankle bouldering. Make sure you always fall on a pad!
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:54pm PT


Just trying to get this thing figured...

Is this a photo of you...

"Shreding the gnar"???...

...

I'm confused...

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
I asked some old people ...they were ..like...35...gnar is that stuff between yer toes after a long day of climbing without socks.

locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:56pm PT


Hi Wade!!!...

photo not found
Missing photo ID#275877
...

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#271621

Hey Old Man!
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:59pm PT


ROFL!!!...


EDITED:

That's a "gnar"ly shot...

Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
What's the fuk is the "GNAR" again???...

typical response from an old person who can't remember how to shred the gnar anymore.
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:02pm PT



"shreding the gnar"...

What the fuk did he say???...



EDITED:

:-)

Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
not me in the pic, just a young man learning gnar shredding.





Back to the OP - as far as sport/gym 5.11 is also where technique becomes a lot more important. A lot harder to muscle through.

Practice that footwork!
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:05pm PT

"Practice that footwork!"...

And of course learn the art of "gnar shredding"...



EDITED: and when you figure out what the fuk it is, please email and tell me...

Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
What the fuk did he say???...


typical response from an old person who has lost the ability to hear the gnar being shredded.
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
^^^

LOL!!!...




EDITED:

Bad case of "gnarlitis"...




Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
Shred the Gnar

To go big, never stop or give up; accept the reality that anything is possible, and everything can be accomplished if you set your mind to it..

Here you go ol' Timer
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:14pm PT


Then I, "shred the gnar" daily...

How gnarly is that???...

LOL!!!...

Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
You guys are adorable. BWHa-Ha-Ha-Ha!!!!!6!!!@

5.11 is pretty hard. In the World. In Da'Gym, 5.11 is just an easy lap or a warm up.
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
So when I was first learning to try to shred the gnar I flailed on that thin crack next to church bowl (I think that was where it was) it was like 10C . Then this guy I think his name was Minnesota Dave totally cruises it . He was totally on his feet the whole way no pump. It's all in the feet (when your outside).
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
BTW I would never put a picture of myself on ST. I don't want to be in an interview someday having to explain why I am in a compromising position with Tom Jones, a blow up doll and a rubber chicken.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
mike526 - I think you'll notice a pattern here

1) Footwork. practice climbs that are below your max. make every foot placement count. try and make as little sound as possible with your feet. be precise. When you watch good climbers you'll notice how much they look down. They are looking at their feet. beginners mostly look up to where they are going to grab next.

2) the importance of learning to hear the gnar being shredded.
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