Is 5.11 really that hard

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
What the fuk did he say???...


typical response from an old person who has lost the ability to hear the gnar being shredded.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Shred the Gnar

To go big, never stop or give up; accept the reality that anything is possible, and everything can be accomplished if you set your mind to it..

Here you go ol' Timer
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
You guys are adorable. BWHa-Ha-Ha-Ha!!!!!6!!!@

5.11 is pretty hard. In the World. In Da'Gym, 5.11 is just an easy lap or a warm up.
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
So when I was first learning to try to shred the gnar I flailed on that thin crack next to church bowl (I think that was where it was) it was like 10C . Then this guy I think his name was Minnesota Dave totally cruises it . He was totally on his feet the whole way no pump. It's all in the feet (when your outside).
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
BTW I would never put a picture of myself on ST. I don't want to be in an interview someday having to explain why I am in a compromising position with Tom Jones, a blow up doll and a rubber chicken.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
mike526 - I think you'll notice a pattern here

1) Footwork. practice climbs that are below your max. make every foot placement count. try and make as little sound as possible with your feet. be precise. When you watch good climbers you'll notice how much they look down. They are looking at their feet. beginners mostly look up to where they are going to grab next.

2) the importance of learning to hear the gnar being shredded.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Dec 8, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
I always want to climb harder not because of the numbers, but because those hard climbs are so damn cool looking!

I want my M-Crimson Butterballs!444444444444444

I never could do a one-arm, so I guess that's why I max'ed out where I did. But heck, I did manage more than a couple of .11s, so perhaps that's not really a requirement.

If you're 200+, get to where your size doesn't become such an issue. Thin face and overhanging sport are gonna be your enemies. Wide crack is more about conditioning than weight, from what I've seen...
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
So on the weekends you get to use all the cool lingo like...

"Shreding the gnar"...

Then Monday rolls around, the white shirt and tie come on and it's...

"I was out the other day progressing nicely and working on my positive attitude"...

That's why I shoot plenty of GoPro footage. Then everyone can come by my cubicle on their breaks and see how much more awesome my weekend was than theirs
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
I agree with a lot of the stuff said hear about footwork, losing weight etc.

Here are some others, fairly trad specific

Learn to fire in your pro fast. Doing this safely takes awareness, awareness takes focus and immersion. Takes time- but but a combination of what I see, and what part of my hand or hands is crammed in a crack is plenty of info to lob my pro in like a skill shot. If a piece is bomber- TRUST IT- and move on with your life. The nice thing about a lot of 5.11 is that the falls can be very clean. Knowing when you are safe to punch a few more moves to a rest is helpful- again goes back to awareness.

All my hardest sends are trad crack lines- I am a relative weakling on sport and boulder, and also have long big legs and a short torso and skinny arms. All climbing drives with the legs, but crack climbing does so even more than face. Technique goes a long long way with cracks.

Finally- even though I am competent at 5.11, there are still plenty of particular styles that stay hard for me even on down to 10-. Don't worry if it feels easy or hard that particular day or climb or rating- its all climbing- yeah!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
ps what the hell is shreding?

I've shredded the gnar bfore, but doubt i've shreded anybody
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
Just keep climbing. For me it takes a 3 times a week habit to get to 5.11+ and I only got there for one season BITD. Footwork makes a huge difference always be working on ways and body position that gets the most out of your feet. Grip strength is for me the most difficult thing to train. Endurance was more my forte. My only 5.12 was overhanging and more juggy. Use slopers and crimpers at the edge of your ability often when at the gym. Work it hard when you get out 3 times a week or more. Do laps and downclimbs to get the most out of it. Really watch out for joint/tendonitus issues.

The great thing about gaining skill in pure dificulty is the amount of outdoor routes that open up to you. Higher skill and strength is a rewarding goal.
Pcutler

climber
Iowa
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
ratings at devils lake are pretty old school in my opinion.

devils lake 10b = HCR 11

ratings are completely subjective to the area.
ruppell

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
I always want to climb harder not because of the numbers, but because those hard climbs are so damn cool looking!

Same here. It's never been about I climb 5.X to me. It's always been "Holy crap that line looks sweet" but it's 5.X. Guess I'm gonna HAVE to get stronger, smarter, faster so I can climb it. Motivation comes in all kinds though.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:06am PT
Alot of 5.11's don't have any moves much harder than mid 5.10, they just have one after the other. Think about that.

You can be able to do a one finger one arm pull up and have the world's best footwork and still not be able to crank out a 5.11. Cuz when your arms get pumped, everything else goes to sh#t.

Traversing is the masters key.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:12am PT
Train like a Demon, get to where you can do two or three -- preferable more -- one-arm pull-ups

Before the beginning of this year, Adam Ondra couldn't do a one arm pull up.

A single one.

Not the most important thing :)





Just look at everything objectively and how it relates to climbing. You don't have a coach, so be your own. Research sports nutrition and health a little bit, be familiar with a healthy diet. Learn stretches that will help prevent injuries down the road and when to do them, learn what muscle groups you need to climb harder, and how to build those up too.

Once you get the science down, and you know (not 'try to come up with,' but KNOW, because there is a difference) how to get the fundamental aspects of sports nutrition and conditioning, apply it to climbing. Find out what is causing you to fail and attack those things - is it your mentality? are you not comitting? does your belayer not make you feel confident on lead? Have you developed bad habits by leading in a gym? Are you able to objectively analyze risk, and not do dangerous things or form bad habits when you get scared?


Obviously, no matter how tall you are, 200lbs is a lot to hang off of tendons. They ain't that big. Your sport is rock climbing, if you want to be a big dude big walls and mountaineering are awesome too - bacon is f*#king rad so I wouldn't give you a hard time if you decided against it.

However, were talking about rock climbing. To burn fat, excersize low impact very often. Eat plenty of good food, DO NOT STARVE yourself. If you eat too little, your body will go into survival mode and you'll metabolize your muscles. Never try to lose more than a pound or two a week, it'll wreak havoc on your body.


Lastly, focus more on being able to do a specific route, than a grade. just the grade 11a means nothing, but a classic difficult route that commands attention and respect can build some character. If you walk up to a climber and spray about your 11a you did at a sport crag no one will give a sh#t, what was it called 'yoga pants jesus'? If you can tell your kids about the day you led The Vampire, you'll have had an experience that would have taught you so much more about who you are.


The numbers are arbitrary, the training is monotonous, the diet is bland and the logistics and cost on our lives and relationships usually cause them to shuffle or end.

Someday, I hope you'll learn it isn't about how hard the climb is, but who you become through its crucible.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:39am PT
Alot of 5.11's don't have any moves much harder than mid 5.10, they just have one after the other. Think about that.

You can be able to do a one finger one arm pull up and have the world's best footwork and still not be able to crank out a 5.11. Cuz when your arms get pumped, everything else goes to sh#t.

Traversing is the masters key.


I'm not climbing sh#t right now, I'm rehabbing. I was shredding a bit of gnar before I got injured. But when I come back to climbing, I've been thinking along the lines of what you've written here, Salamanizer. Volume like crazy to build a really strong foundation. Plus, well, I won't be cranking the hard sh#t right away anyway. Right now, just endless traversing, up and down climbing with the headphones on sounds like heaven.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 9, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Not the most important thing

Agreed, there have been more than a few 5.11 climbers who killed on 5.11 face and could barely yard a pull-up. The late, great Diana Hunter comes to mind. I was just relating what had worked for me back in the day, but in retropect the routine I related really applies to a time when I was well past 5.11 and busy working past 5.12. In any event, loads of bone-crushing upper body strenth never hurts, especially when paired with immaculate technique.

You can be able to do a one finger one arm pull up and have the world's best footwork and still not be able to crank out a 5.11.

We're assuming this statement is purely rhetorical. ;}
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:33am PT
It is simple. Put up your own routes and rate them all 5.11. Furget all that "gnar" shite.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:54am PT
Worth repeating.

Best advice in my opinion???...

Learn to enjoy climbing within your personal limits and don't give a fuk about the numbers game...

In the long (and short) run it will serve you better...


One thing the OP never told us was how long they have been climbing.

mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Dec 9, 2012 - 04:41am PT
One arm pullups... that's so 1980s.

Seriously, getting to where you have the ability, fine, but actually doing them is just risking injury on something as uninteresting as a metal bar in a gym. Part of the reason the young people are climbing so hard is that training has evolved greatly over the years.

Also, 5.11 can be pretty damn hard, depending on the area and the style.
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