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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Some seem easy, some seem impossible.
Some you're done before you finish, some never seem to end.
My advise: Work them until failure repeatedly. At some point you'll become used to the pain (and may even find enjoyment in it, of it… the pain that is.
Eventually you'll notice that they are not that much of a problem (this may take months, this may take years…. depends).
In the end you may wonder what all the fuss was about because you had it in you all the time. Because with hard work and great focus anything is possible
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jstan
climber
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Some things not appearing above.
1. Cardio pulmonary is critical. interval training.
2. Good calluses knock stuff down one grade.
3. Most important muscle is located between your ears.
4. Find out what your best weight is. 147 was mine. 143 was bad. Forty years later I am 148.
Get a good weigh scale. Eat Smart has a scale using piezoelectric sensors. 0.1# precision
It actually works.
5. Minutes spent talking ratings is time wasted.
6. A challenge you don't enjoy, is the one that will stop you.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jstan,
Your last comment, "a challenge you don't enjoy, is the one that will stop you" is packed with emotional meaning.
I really liked that statement, since it seems that I'm dealing with that issue, more and more.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Some good advice so far for sure. i think regardless of grade when you're at your limit the ability to shake out is key. I mean you're going to get pumped on anything but the shortest power routes, so being able to recover and shake out, especially sneaky quick little shakes , just enough to keep believing in the next move, has always been the difference in sending and not sending on a given day.
How hard is 5.11 though? I sort of forget, but here in France 6c technical limestone slabs can still grab my attention for sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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+1 on Jstan's analysis.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Just for the record, John, jstan, is one of the first to climb 5.11, Foops, in 1967. The second ascent, by Henry Barber, was five years later.
This thread would have had an entirely different slant if it had been posted in 1966.
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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Hey all thanks for all the amazing advice. I know someone ask how long i have been climbing and it's been just over three years. A Lot of good advice here and things to consider and put into effect. It also helps to hear that 5.11 is hard and not something that comes easily.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Sh#t,
Climbing 5.10 opens up some of the greatest climbs in the world for you.
Just climb a lot, and all of the different types of climbing. Hell, get some crampons and go do some easy ice climbs.
With those skills and experience, you can travel the world and do some of the best climbs on Earth.
You don't have to climb 5.11 if it is a brick wall that you can't get through. If you can solid up on 5.10, all kinds of things are there to do, including some really famous routes. Long ones, though. Most of them have long stretches of easier climbing and a short crux where you can just yard on gear if you need to.
No kidding. I was kind of stuck at 5.10 for ages, but I was solid at 5.10 and could solo all kinds of stuff up to my ability.
You can go climb some of the best alpine routes on the planet if your other skills, such as speed and organization for speed are learned. That part is easy. Go light and don't dick around. Period.
I was lucky to learn from a climber who was an efficiency freak. I see parties on the Nose with so much crap that all it does is slow them down.
Just climb a lot. A LOT.
That said, these days you can teach a little girl to climb 5.11 in the gym in a month.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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One arm pullups... that's so 1980s
Uh . . . make that 1950s.
;>)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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*snort*
Ya got us on that one, Mr. Gill. Actually, it was when I got my copy of Master Of Rock in '77 that I got serious about that particular parlour trick. By '78 I could yard 'em like a champ, and my climbing took off like an X-15 on a zoom flight.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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6. A challenge you don't enjoy, is the one that will stop you.
True. Rich Perch once told me: "If you want to climb hard, you will."
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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That said, these days you can teach a little girl to climb 5.11 in the gym in a month.
I resemble that! Never could crack 10d. Then again I was never more than a weekender.
Some people have it, some don't. But it takes time on the rock to float it. The people that climb hard don't get there without putting in the dues.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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5.11 is just a number, the climb you are on with that particular number can be hard for you or not hard as the case may be.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Naw 5.11 isn't that hard. Look at this cat, he doesn't even need protection.
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jstan
climber
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One arm pullups... that's so 1980s
Uh . . . make that 1950s.
Spoken by the person who awed many generations. Who made one arms look like simple gracefulness. A wonderful conjunction. The most incredible conjunction of all.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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I haven't read the whole thread but at your size and weight 5.11 face climbing might be the way to break on through to that level. I consider 5.11 very hard plus, hard to figure out.
Get a climbing partner who does 5.11s and follow them up things. You can make it.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Dec 10, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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If history is any example, the 5.10 you do today will be rated 5.11 in a few years. As has been said above, find what you like, be it types of climbs, location of climbs, particular friends to climb with, and go for it. You'll be pushing the envelope a lot quicker if what you are attaining is what you enjoy.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Dec 10, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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SO the answer is... "No, but it's not that easy either"?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 10, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Good advice upthread. As noted, strength to weight ratio, in addition to lots of practice, is critical. Re read Jstans excellent post.
Dave Kos, the company is called "5.11 tactical" cause that's what Royal Robbins named it.
"I asked some old people ...they were ..like...35...gnar is that stuff between yer toes after a long day of climbing without socks."
I believe that "the Gnar" is actually located under yer testies and under yer foreskin, and is substantially more prevalent on a 3 week climbing trip sans any showers. At least that's what I heard. "Shredding the Gnar", is what a dude does when he can't get a woman and is in "need".
As far as anyone who could actually "shred" rock, John Long was the only known animal, and he's currently laid up.
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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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Man worked out this week and thought i ate half decently, only to step on the scale after a week to see i gained two pounds WTF, discouraging to say the least. Oh well stick with it and see what happens next week.
thanks everyone for the advice.
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