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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 15, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Muscle is heavier than fat.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 15, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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climb with people much better then you. It'll bring your game up
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Dec 15, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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I maybe repeating stuff already posted.
Finger strength and technique are more important that your weight IMO. Yes the best climbers are usually wiry guys, but there's been thicker guys, not fat but not thin, who climb pretty well. If you are not built to be thin it is very tough to try to stay thin.
For training climb at your limit until failure. i.e. keep trying 11s and keep falling off them, don't just run laps on 5.9, just be careful of injuries (exercise the forearm extensors to keep them in balance with the flexors which get worked when climbing). Don't go for endurance, go for strength in your training.
Bouldering is an excellent way to do this type of training.
The hardest climbs I've done have been projects. Something I've tried over and over until I work out the moves and gain the needed strength from doing the moves over and over on different days until I get it.
Try harder climbs that are a style that you are best at. I'm best at slightly overhanging cracks or slightly overhanging blocky face climbs.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 15, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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Hudon: Muscle is heavier than fat.
That explains my 207.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 15, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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So someone explain to me.... 30 years ago we all worked like hell and only a few ever got to 5.11... The only place I could hit 5.11 was on glacier point apron.
Why is it that nowadays every Joe Blow is climbing 5.11 right out their diapers?
P.S.
30 years ago I watched Barry Bates do multiple 1-finger pullups
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