Is 5.11 really that hard

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 94 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mike526

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 8, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
A bit about me I'm 34 and stand 6'1 and weigh about 205(yeah i know i'm big).

Anyhow i've been climbing in the gym and outside and the hardest climb i have done outside is a 10b.

I've been working some of the 11's in the gym and have tried some at devils lake in wisconsin but seem to always come up short.

Any advice as far as training or words of motivation from people who climb 11 an up. I try to get inside twice a week and outside at least once.

I know not to chase grades but an 11a is my goal for next year.
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:49pm PT


Just go somewhere that the ratings are super soft...

You'll probably be good into the low 12's....(EDITED: "Sport" climbing)

toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
-


the higher the rating the more critical strength-to-weight ratio becomes


do yourself a big favor and lose 15 or 20 lbs.



easier said than done, I know



-
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
I could make the typical ST smart ass comment, but all kidding aside; if you weigh 205, a typical Devils Lake face 5.11 face climb would be tough.

I only climbed there once, 40 years ago, but as anyone knows, the lighter you are, the better you will climb on hard face. It's pretty tough hanging all that weight on your finger tips and toes.

A nice fat hand-jam is not as weight dependent in my opinion.
mike526

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
I'm working on losing the weight believe me. What area's do you consider soft Locker?
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
One thing to think about: if the ratings are softer, then is it really 5.11?

If the answer is "yes", then you probably are chasing numbers...

Btw, there's a diet plan outlined in that book, I've heard. I'm not trying to sell the book, just mentioning it b/c a friend who has the book brought it up.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
All kidding aside, old school 5.11's (Yosemite, Suicide, Gunks, Josh) are pretty stout no matter what else is going on. Train like a Demon, get to where you can do two or three -- preferable more -- one-arm pull-ups, climb outside all the time, get your fingers strong. That's what worked for me. I think that a steady diet of hard bouldering is also a major benefit if you want to climb hard routes.

And at 205 definately lose weight, although really it's not so much raw weight data but your bodyfat index. If you're 205 but have the muscle definition of a skinned greyhound, that's probably a plus.

My two cents. You might want to run your query over at rocklimbing.com; they discuss this issue a LOT.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Serious on the one-armed pullups?

Guess I'm out, then :-). At least until the scale is happy...
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:13pm PT


"What area's do you consider soft Locker?"...

Areas that I am no longer getting nearly as often as I would like...

;-/

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
In my 3 1/2 years of climbing experience, I do see more skinnier people throwing down the 11+ routes. I'm 6' and 197lbs. I'm not a big fan of face climbing, but I do love crack climbing. The hardest face climbing I've done was 10a and I wasn't too thrilled. The hardest crack I've done was Catchy 10d to Catchy Corner 11a. I did better on the 11a fingers/lieback that I did on the thin hands 10d. I feel way more secure in crack that I do anything else.

RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Yup it is!

A couple of weekends ago I was at The New and watched this super jacked guy chug a Redbull and get on Legacy (a super classic 11a). He whipped and whipped and eventually bailed. While he was being lowered, he threw this tantrum about how the rating on this climb was bullshit because he can climb 5.13 in the gym.

I guess it is funny how some people feel entitled to certain numbers...(Not saying that you are...OP)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
Go bouldering lots so you can work on movement & linking difficult moves. Then when you get up to that crux on that 5.11 you will be able to figure it out quicker & feel stronger on the crappy holds.
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
He whipped and whipped and eventually bailed. While he was being lowered, he threw this tantrum about how the rating on this climb was bullshit because he can climb 5.13 in the gym.



haha! what a jackass

a lot of "climbers" these days are just clowns who should be jet-skiing instead



-
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:27pm PT

Best advice in my opinion???...

Learn to enjoy climbing within your personal limits and don't give a fuk about the numbers game...

In the long (and short) run it will serve you better...
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
There is always aid climbing.

Prod.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
*5
Locker!
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:31pm PT


Prod...

your shoes fit perfect...

THANKS!!!...

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I've only done 11's by accident, never intentionally, and only back when I was well under 200

Don't sweat the numbers.

It's supposed to be fun.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Don't listen to Locker. That is the typical response by an old person who can't shred the gnar anymore.

I love the numbers game!


How else can my friends on Facebook know what a bad ass I am!!!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 94 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews