mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 8, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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A bit about me I'm 34 and stand 6'1 and weigh about 205(yeah i know i'm big).
Anyhow i've been climbing in the gym and outside and the hardest climb i have done outside is a 10b.
I've been working some of the 11's in the gym and have tried some at devils lake in wisconsin but seem to always come up short.
Any advice as far as training or words of motivation from people who climb 11 an up. I try to get inside twice a week and outside at least once.
I know not to chase grades but an 11a is my goal for next year.
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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Just go somewhere that the ratings are super soft...
You'll probably be good into the low 12's....(EDITED: "Sport" climbing)
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toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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the higher the rating the more critical strength-to-weight ratio becomes
do yourself a big favor and lose 15 or 20 lbs.
easier said than done, I know
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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I could make the typical ST smart ass comment, but all kidding aside; if you weigh 205, a typical Devils Lake face 5.11 face climb would be tough.
I only climbed there once, 40 years ago, but as anyone knows, the lighter you are, the better you will climb on hard face. It's pretty tough hanging all that weight on your finger tips and toes.
A nice fat hand-jam is not as weight dependent in my opinion.
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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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I'm working on losing the weight believe me. What area's do you consider soft Locker?
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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One thing to think about: if the ratings are softer, then is it really 5.11?
If the answer is "yes", then you probably are chasing numbers...
Btw, there's a diet plan outlined in that book, I've heard. I'm not trying to sell the book, just mentioning it b/c a friend who has the book brought it up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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All kidding aside, old school 5.11's (Yosemite, Suicide, Gunks, Josh) are pretty stout no matter what else is going on. Train like a Demon, get to where you can do two or three -- preferable more -- one-arm pull-ups, climb outside all the time, get your fingers strong. That's what worked for me. I think that a steady diet of hard bouldering is also a major benefit if you want to climb hard routes.
And at 205 definately lose weight, although really it's not so much raw weight data but your bodyfat index. If you're 205 but have the muscle definition of a skinned greyhound, that's probably a plus.
My two cents. You might want to run your query over at rocklimbing.com; they discuss this issue a LOT.
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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"What area's do you consider soft Locker?"...
Areas that I am no longer getting nearly as often as I would like...
;-/
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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In my 3 1/2 years of climbing experience, I do see more skinnier people throwing down the 11+ routes. I'm 6' and 197lbs. I'm not a big fan of face climbing, but I do love crack climbing. The hardest face climbing I've done was 10a and I wasn't too thrilled. The hardest crack I've done was Catchy 10d to Catchy Corner 11a. I did better on the 11a fingers/lieback that I did on the thin hands 10d. I feel way more secure in crack that I do anything else.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Yup it is!
A couple of weekends ago I was at The New and watched this super jacked guy chug a Redbull and get on Legacy (a super classic 11a). He whipped and whipped and eventually bailed. While he was being lowered, he threw this tantrum about how the rating on this climb was bullshit because he can climb 5.13 in the gym.
I guess it is funny how some people feel entitled to certain numbers...(Not saying that you are...OP)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Go bouldering lots so you can work on movement & linking difficult moves. Then when you get up to that crux on that 5.11 you will be able to figure it out quicker & feel stronger on the crappy holds.
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toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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He whipped and whipped and eventually bailed. While he was being lowered, he threw this tantrum about how the rating on this climb was bullshit because he can climb 5.13 in the gym.
haha! what a jackass
a lot of "climbers" these days are just clowns who should be jet-skiing instead
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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Best advice in my opinion???...
Learn to enjoy climbing within your personal limits and don't give a fuk about the numbers game...
In the long (and short) run it will serve you better...
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Prod
Trad climber
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There is always aid climbing.
Prod.
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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*5
Locker!
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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Prod...
your shoes fit perfect...
THANKS!!!...
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I've only done 11's by accident, never intentionally, and only back when I was well under 200
Don't sweat the numbers.
It's supposed to be fun.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Don't listen to Locker. That is the typical response by an old person who can't shred the gnar anymore.
I love the numbers game!
How else can my friends on Facebook know what a bad ass I am!!!
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