Photos of The Hourglass Left

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Messages 101 - 118 of total 118 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Mar 23, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
GGG-GULP!
Grayarea

Trad climber
CA
Mar 23, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
Wonderful history here! Have never hiked up to Ribbon yet-looks awesome from these pics. The right side is more my speed these days! How wide is the crux on the 3rd pitch? Sacherer freed this in 62 WOW!!!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Mar 23, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
Bob Kamps and Sacherer climbed the Right side in 1962 with free and aid.

Frank's freeclimbing only started in earnest in 1963. He returned to the Right side of the Hourglass in 1964 with Tom Gerughty for the FFA.

This route is one of several in which Frank returned to a previous aided FA on which he was with a more experienced climber and climbed it all free with a new junior partner.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 23, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
So Jim revealed the existence of a secret training boulder, not far from Camp 4, to the west

Dale Bard took me there on Labor Day weekend in 1972. We did a couple of laps each (TO the extent I remember any details at all, I remember it being no more than five or six feet long)
, but I was fascinated with chimneys and off-widths then, so on my next turn, I managed to chimney to its edge, but found the exit in a different league.

I should mention that Dale and I took -- and used -- a rope on that boulder while underclinging.

John
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 5, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
Bump
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 10:04pm PT

Apparently there are a ton of climbers who have never been to the Ribbon Falls Portal. What a shame. One and a half hour moderate forest hike with no bushwhacking and you get this enormous experience. It is the highest single-drop water fall in North America and it all happens in the very majestic nearly three-quarter circle of a portal. And even when the Falls is not rally operating, the spot is still nearly magical. And what? There must be something like twenty climbs up in that area currently, many of which are terrific, some world-class.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 20, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
Time for the HourGlass to be turned over-BUMP
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 17, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
Bump for a real nice spot in the valley (triggered by a quick perusal of Nahoo's index)
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
No kidding NA
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Mar 17, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
Just selectively read through this thread. What a fascinating and well told peice of game changing Yosemite history Peter. That 2000 photo session of yours must have flooded you with memories. I don't think you ever have to worry about alzheimers with such phenomenal detailed memory of several decades past. By the way, where are the lead pictures? Are their no modern takers?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2015 - 05:27am PT
I'm wondering:

Alexey, did you try this beast?

Jaybro, did you try this beast?

You two seem to be the bull-goose OW climbers hereabouts.

Enquiring fans wish to know.

Or at least I do.

Peter, nice job start to finish, bro.


Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:24am PT
peter haan is the
undiscovered note
that Beethoven
sought 200 years ago.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:43am PT
Hey I C this was/ is Real gold!
Now if I would just check my E mail. . .
I never check it in any regular way, sorry.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:49am PT
Yes, Alexey did get the rope up there on the right side. It was a nice display of power and skill.

Le_bruce and I tried it a few years ago and didn't get far- I chickened out before committing to the serious bit. Then we came back with a stronger gang and I was lucky to follow a rope above and enjoy several hangs and still get to stand on top:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Bouted-on-Hourglass-Right-Side-TR/t11027n.html


JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:05am PT
This thread deserves another bump. Rick L and Mike F told me about the climb (separately) shortly after Peter pulled it off, but this thread was the first time I got a first person account from Peter. Getting Guido's account of the FA on aid made this rich thread even richer.

Thanks, all.

John
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
I met Farrell in '70 and have jammed with him many times at the Sunset Inn, especially back in the late seventies.

In all that time we palled around at Nickell's place, he never once uttered a word about having been on the route with Peter.

I never conceived of my being strong enough to do either side, and everyone else seemed to feel the same way.

And the name itself is daunting.

As always, hats off to the great pair of Bob Kamps and Guido, too.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
Peter was strong, bold and imaginative!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
Thanks very much Jim.

This route, the left side, was my best achievement. Even more so than the Salathe. It was so pure, so daunting, so steep and frankly so archetypal, that I never have been able to leave it behind. This means, the hour or two I was on it, those minutes reoccur over and over even 44 years later and daily.

Lead with what we had back then, namely nothing, it was a milestone. Pratt had stated that it was "the last free climbing challenge in Yosemite". He was shockingly wrong--there were thousands of great free routes still to do--- but I think we get his idea regardless. It was known, it was a horrifying prospect, and Kamps had aided it fully. That Bridwell's second ascent was so sullied by his secretly establishing a hanging belay 35 feet off the ground at the beginning of the undercling and that his scheme had taken 40 years to discover is also amazing. It might turn out that no one has ever repeated it in the original style by which it was accomplished. Namely totally runout and no dicking around. Subsequent ascents took forever to take place and again also were modified in ways, not just with wider pro.
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