Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:24am PT
|
peter haan is the
undiscovered note
that Beethoven
sought 200 years ago.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 - 06:43am PT
|
Hey I C this was/ is Real gold!
Now if I would just check my E mail. . .
I never check it in any regular way, sorry.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 - 10:49am PT
|
Yes, Alexey did get the rope up there on the right side. It was a nice display of power and skill.
Le_bruce and I tried it a few years ago and didn't get far- I chickened out before committing to the serious bit. Then we came back with a stronger gang and I was lucky to follow a rope above and enjoy several hangs and still get to stand on top:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Bouted-on-Hourglass-Right-Side-TR/t11027n.html
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 - 11:05am PT
|
This thread deserves another bump. Rick L and Mike F told me about the climb (separately) shortly after Peter pulled it off, but this thread was the first time I got a first person account from Peter. Getting Guido's account of the FA on aid made this rich thread even richer.
Thanks, all.
John
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
|
I met Farrell in '70 and have jammed with him many times at the Sunset Inn, especially back in the late seventies.
In all that time we palled around at Nickell's place, he never once uttered a word about having been on the route with Peter.
I never conceived of my being strong enough to do either side, and everyone else seemed to feel the same way.
And the name itself is daunting.
As always, hats off to the great pair of Bob Kamps and Guido, too.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
|
Peter was strong, bold and imaginative!
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
|
Thanks very much Jim.
This route, the left side, was my best achievement. Even more so than the Salathe. It was so pure, so daunting, so steep and frankly so archetypal, that I never have been able to leave it behind. This means, the hour or two I was on it, those minutes reoccur over and over even 44 years later and daily.
Lead with what we had back then, namely nothing, it was a milestone. Pratt had stated that it was "the last free climbing challenge in Yosemite". He was shockingly wrong--there were thousands of great free routes still to do--- but I think we get his idea regardless. It was known, it was a horrifying prospect, and Kamps had aided it fully. That Bridwell's second ascent was so sullied by his secretly establishing a hanging belay 35 feet off the ground at the beginning of the undercling and that his scheme had taken 40 years to discover is also amazing. It might turn out that no one has ever repeated it in the original style by which it was accomplished. Namely totally runout and no dicking around. Subsequent ascents took forever to take place and again also were modified in ways, not just with wider pro.
|
|
Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Reading all the Hourglass threads makes me feel a bit relieved I am not a big fan of the off-width.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 20, 2017 - 02:10pm PT
|
Bump for the Haan Dynasty...
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
May 20, 2017 - 02:28pm PT
|
Ha ha, "Haan Dynasty"
My path has crossed Peter's only a tiny amount in this life, but from what little I've got to interact with him, he is a very friendly, courteous, supportive, humble dude. And he seems to be a pretty good climber too.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!