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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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just checked the two guide books, Reid's © 1994 (page 93) and Myers & Reids' © 1987 (from which page 94 is reproduced above)...
the latest book has two bolts indicated. I believe that you only saw one, perhaps, someone already put the route back to its original state.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 02:49am PT
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Even with the sling belay, like you said, it's still in the realm of the "masters" with the gear of the day!
Maybe even with the gear of today; on a diagonal undercling it can be hard to stop and let go with one hand to place a cam. There is a potential to "barndoor" off. Same problem on the crux diagonal undercling of The Cobra. But you could get a big cam in and the midway point on the undercling nowadays; that would help avoid the death fall potential of the early ascents.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 02:57am PT
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Rik, primary historic information is an important first step in understanding... without your story, just as you remember it, there is little else to go on.
Let the historians sort it all out later, better to get it said first... as imperfect as it maybe.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 11, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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Awful glad this thread re-appeared.
I wonder if Greg Stock, the park geologist, or perhaps Minerals, can chip in as to the flake expanding and contracting - causes etc? Greg recently installed sensors on a flake somewhere in the Valley to see what it does in response to temperature.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1189611
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2010 - 10:04am PT
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Yes Rik, Clint is talking about Tobin's FFA route, Cobra right of the reg. Arches route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 10:45am PT
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I'm counting on the entire feature inverting in 2012!!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 11, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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Maybe it's just getting low on sand?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 27, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
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Ask not for whom the flake groans, it groans for thee...LOL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 23, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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the hour to bump this back has arrived
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Grayarea
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 23, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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Wonderful history here! Have never hiked up to Ribbon yet-looks awesome from these pics. The right side is more my speed these days! How wide is the crux on the 3rd pitch? Sacherer freed this in 62 WOW!!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 23, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Bob Kamps and Sacherer climbed the Right side in 1962 with free and aid.
Frank's freeclimbing only started in earnest in 1963. He returned to the Right side of the Hourglass in 1964 with Tom Gerughty for the FFA.
This route is one of several in which Frank returned to a previous aided FA on which he was with a more experienced climber and climbed it all free with a new junior partner.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 23, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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So Jim revealed the existence of a secret training boulder, not far from Camp 4, to the west
Dale Bard took me there on Labor Day weekend in 1972. We did a couple of laps each (TO the extent I remember any details at all, I remember it being no more than five or six feet long)
, but I was fascinated with chimneys and off-widths then, so on my next turn, I managed to chimney to its edge, but found the exit in a different league.
I should mention that Dale and I took -- and used -- a rope on that boulder while underclinging.
John
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Apparently there are a ton of climbers who have never been to the Ribbon Falls Portal. What a shame. One and a half hour moderate forest hike with no bushwhacking and you get this enormous experience. It is the highest single-drop water fall in North America and it all happens in the very majestic nearly three-quarter circle of a portal. And even when the Falls is not rally operating, the spot is still nearly magical. And what? There must be something like twenty climbs up in that area currently, many of which are terrific, some world-class.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 20, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Time for the HourGlass to be turned over-BUMP
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 17, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
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Bump for a real nice spot in the valley (triggered by a quick perusal of Nahoo's index)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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No kidding NA
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 17, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
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Just selectively read through this thread. What a fascinating and well told peice of game changing Yosemite history Peter. That 2000 photo session of yours must have flooded you with memories. I don't think you ever have to worry about alzheimers with such phenomenal detailed memory of several decades past. By the way, where are the lead pictures? Are their no modern takers?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2015 - 05:27am PT
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I'm wondering:
Alexey, did you try this beast?
Jaybro, did you try this beast?
You two seem to be the bull-goose OW climbers hereabouts.
Enquiring fans wish to know.
Or at least I do.
Peter, nice job start to finish, bro.
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