The Origin and History of Belay Devices

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 117 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mellpat

Big Wall climber
Sweden
Apr 7, 2013 - 09:12am PT
Can you tell me when Jumars first showed up in the Sporthaus Schuster catalogs if you have a good selection.

Jumars were patented already in 1958 - see http://tinyurl.com/cpv945y
The production model for the first 20 years or so appears to be identical to that shown in the patent. Jumars seems to have been patented in just Austria and Switzerland.
I no longer have the old Schuster catalogs, but I recall that Jumars were used at Eiger Direct (Harlin route) in 1966, the year I started climbing.
dustyrat

Trad climber
Leeds, West Yorkshire
Apr 7, 2013 - 11:45am PT
Of interest, single sticht plate with spring, not sure of date though
Of interest, single sticht plate with spring, not sure of date though
Credit: dustyrat
dustyrat

Trad climber
Leeds, West Yorkshire
Apr 7, 2013 - 11:49am PT
I could be wrong but I think this device may have featured in 70's Cho...
I could be wrong but I think this device may have featured in 70's Chouinard brochures?
Credit: dustyrat
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 7, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Don't forget this wondrous Masterpiece!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#297705
dustyrat

Trad climber
Leeds, West Yorkshire
Apr 7, 2013 - 11:56am PT
Pierre Allain Descender
Pierre Allain Descender
Credit: dustyrat
Was shown in brochure and referenced by Steve, way back on second page of this thread
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
The first belay link I saw was (I believe) an MSR/Larry Penberthy device. Joe Herbst used one when we climbed the Nose in '71. I was using a Stitch at the time, he extolled the virtues of his lighter/smaller system.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:30pm PT

What the living HELL is this contraption???...

Has ANYONE here ever held, seen, used one???...

WOULD anyone here even buy one???...(LOL!!!)...


...


EDITED:

I keep looking at that thing and wondering what the hell were they thinking???...

Did someone invent that thing and dream that no doubt they're going to become a millionaire with such a brilliant IMPROVEMENT????...

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Steve.

The Jumar after some Google digging (no answer to the catalogue question):

The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection: http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=32302
Credit: The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascender_(climbing)

The Jumar got it's name from the "Ju" in Jusi and the "mar" in Marti - the inventors.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
What the living HELL is this contraption???...

Here's the eBay link to what I call TheMechanicalClusterFuk:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPIDER-type-trad-protection-rock-climbing-descender-belay-device-new-/321086431157?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac23e1fb5

DOOD!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:04pm PT

"Here's the eBay link to what I call TheMechanicalClusterFuk:"...

ekat...

That THING is HILARIOUS looking...

I would LOVE to see someone pull it out at the crags...

LMAO!!!...





EDITED:

I've looked at it a bunch of times and still can't get beyond...

WHAT THE FUK???...

LOL!!!...
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
locker. . . I sent that link to Blanchard and I could hear him cracking up in his reply email!

It really would be a fun thing to have at the crags someday when there were lots of people around.. . just whip that puppy out and very quietly clip into it and start rigging . . . just to see how long it would take for somebody to snap!

HA!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
I think it's called a ZABROK! LOL
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 7, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
I imagine that the cost and ethical concerns of keeping and feeding a trained belay slave had something to do with the development of belay devices...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Going tubular was the next big step and another great Lowe innovation.




An early unmarked Lowe Tuber.




Along with a later snazzy French model.
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
May 27, 2013 - 12:06am PT
When I first started climbing, my partner/mentor gave me a single slot, rectangular plate like the one shown in mellpat's photo upthread. I used it for years before upgrading to the spring version once they were available.

Always enjoy browsing these hardware threads...reminds me of how far we've come.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
A few more snazzy French-made Tubers complete with splatter-resist anodization and with the cable loop intact.



Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
May 26, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
Around 1972, when I got into climbing at the Gunks, hip belays were the order of the day. I have this vague recollection of having to take a test which involved catching a heavy sack full of sand or something. Then you could go climb (or maybe I dreamed that up. Who knows.) Anyway, leather shorts helped a lot. The first device I began using, was a figure 8, late 70s in the Adirondacks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
This is perhaps the last installment in the Lowe belay device story.









This device has a tiny sticker that says "R.O.K. PRODUCT".
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Jun 15, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
I think figure 8's came in mid 70's. At least that's when I first started seeing them.
Hated them because they put permanent spiral kinks in the ropes.

My hockey puck/Spring Stitch has two holes. 1 nine mm, 1 11 mm

I used it for belaying double ropes and rappelling until the new dental floss ropes showed up.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 15, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
My hockey puck/Spring Stitch has two holes. 1 nine mm, 1 11 mm
I used it for belaying double ropes until the new dental floss ropes showed up.

Best belay device for skinny ropes I know of was the Sirius from German company TRE. Too bad they stopped making it...
R.I.P
R.I.P
Credit: Ghost
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