The Origin and History of Belay Devices

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 124 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
May 27, 2013 - 12:06am PT
When I first started climbing, my partner/mentor gave me a single slot, rectangular plate like the one shown in mellpat's photo upthread. I used it for years before upgrading to the spring version once they were available.

Always enjoy browsing these hardware threads...reminds me of how far we've come.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
A few more snazzy French-made Tubers complete with splatter-resist anodization and with the cable loop intact.



Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
May 26, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
Around 1972, when I got into climbing at the Gunks, hip belays were the order of the day. I have this vague recollection of having to take a test which involved catching a heavy sack full of sand or something. Then you could go climb (or maybe I dreamed that up. Who knows.) Anyway, leather shorts helped a lot. The first device I began using, was a figure 8, late 70s in the Adirondacks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
This is perhaps the last installment in the Lowe belay device story.









This device has a tiny sticker that says "R.O.K. PRODUCT".
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Jun 15, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
I think figure 8's came in mid 70's. At least that's when I first started seeing them.
Hated them because they put permanent spiral kinks in the ropes.

My hockey puck/Spring Stitch has two holes. 1 nine mm, 1 11 mm

I used it for belaying double ropes and rappelling until the new dental floss ropes showed up.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 15, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
My hockey puck/Spring Stitch has two holes. 1 nine mm, 1 11 mm
I used it for belaying double ropes until the new dental floss ropes showed up.

Best belay device for skinny ropes I know of was the Sirius from German company TRE. Too bad they stopped making it...
R.I.P
R.I.P
Credit: Ghost
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jun 15, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
this thread is great. I'm trying -- and failing -- to imagine what Walter Bonatti used back in the day.

I started climbing in 1994 (20 years ago!? wow.) Even back then the only device I saw at the crags was an ATC. Never saw a Figure 8, except in a catalog, and which was immediately dismissed as a museum piece.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Jun 15, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
Walter probably used what most of us of a certain age used. Hip belay. With a swami belt there was no good place to clip the belay device.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jun 15, 2014 - 11:37pm PT
Walter probably used what most of us of a certain age used. Hip belay.
Like this,
Mid 70's Big Rock hip belay
Mid 70's Big Rock hip belay
Credit: T Hocking
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2014 - 08:29am PT
Steve, those pictures ore of a prototype "square tuber" that I was working on with Greg Lowe in mid-1991. I left Lowe in December 1991 to start Trango and the people remaining at Lowe abandoned the project so I took it on at Trango where it was refined and became the Pyramid.
Malcolm
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2014 - 09:01am PT
Thanks for the background, Malcolm.

Any idea what R.O.K. stands for?
Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Jun 16, 2014 - 10:12am PT
R.O.K. = Republic of Korea. Country of Origin.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2014 - 10:41am PT
Thanks!
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Aug 5, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
I just put a Salewa sticht plate for sale on Ebay

check it out here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171412501349?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
Aug 5, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
Walter (Bonatti) probably used what most of us of a certain age used. Hip belay.

Well not on his famous solos.

DMT
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Aug 5, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#371468
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 5, 2014 - 01:54pm PT

Bonatti, at his time, was known for using equipment from earlier times. He probably used a set-up of carabiners for self-belay. I have never been able to see any special belay devices among his equipment on photos.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 5, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
Stitch Plates ruled. I remember getting an ATC and wishing that I still had the Stitch Plate without the spring.

You could do all kinds of stuff with that simple piece of gear. The tube devices couldn't lock off as well.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 5, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
Klaus, what's with the bottle opener, or whatever that is? I must have
three Sticht plates, a double-niner, a nine/eleven, and a double-eleven
but I've never seen that sheet metal thingy. It looks after market.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Aug 5, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
funny I always called it a "Stitch" plate but the Germans called it "Sticht" plate

Reilly, the metal bottle opener thingy has a hook on the other end to hold down the spring if you don't want to use it. Pretty sure it's original and maybe rare.
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