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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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"classics"
F*cking christ. If Mirko can do it, Ashima can.
She's having fun pushing her limits on Bolts.
She's probably still not comfortable with getting up high.
She's 11. Bolts are plenty safe for her.
SIGNS OF BURNOUT??
ARE YOU KIDDING ME? What is wrong with you people?
She sends two 14c's in 7 days, and you guys say there are "signs of burning out" ? ? ? ? WHAT THE Hell.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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I am sure there are boulder problems and routes where a say, 6' guy has to do a good lunge to get from hold to hold, and it's about V2 or V3 for that guy. If the little girl can't do that route, can the 6' guy say it's V12 or whatever, since it shut down a V-double-digit climber?
Agreed. Thats a microcosm, important for the difficulty a boulder problem, and sometimes for particular routes with acute cruxes. The beauty of rock of course is that it allows many differently shaped people to climb, sometimes using totally different sequences with different holds.
But in general, being small and thin doesnt alter the difficulty of a route. On average. Climbing has a great inbuilt counterbalance effect that generally keeps things even - e.g. small reach corresponds with small hands to make small intermediate dimples into usable holds. It doesnt create an unfair advantage, unless you think that being the most ideal shape to climb is somehow unfair and the ratings shouldnt apply to these people in the same way.
Im sorry to have got involved in a grade debate.. the bottom line is take grades with a pinch of salt - but not a spoonful!!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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The grade debates here can't compare to 8a.nu's debates. And none of those guys talk about how cool struggling up 5.10 is on a public forum.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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Also, Adam Ondra just flashed Southern Smoke Direct. That's the hardest flash EVER. And he rated it easier than it's graded. (graded 9a+/15a, he thinks 9a/14d)
But it wasn't struggling up a 5.10 so it's not cool. Or takes and skill. And it's not climbing.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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Yes.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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MichaelD,
Ondra flashed the direct start into Southern Smoke. That is what is 14d. Southern Smoke w/o the direct start is 14c.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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direct* ;)
I mean, pussies, Should be doing hard 5.9 trad in The Valley.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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ha! punters...
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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yeah...but climbing is easier for women!
just sayin!
;-)
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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perhaps i may have read more into this than was there: "Yea, I wanna see her climb supercrack & see how that goes."
It looked to me like we were doing a little comparison...that is all...
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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You like Football, but not being tackled, or scoring, or playing with anyone... Just running around the field with a ball. That's cool. You came off harsh and biased and a total prick.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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michaeld
Snorted coffee out my nose over that one....
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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It must be her little hands
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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Did you picture a little kid running around the backyard with a nerf football while his parents are bull sh*tting around the bbq?
Or what you think Reily looks like running around a big open field with scattered trees and a football, just running anywhere, birds singing, happy as hell?
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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I pictured Reily streaking into a football game, as free as a bird, singing some merry-go-round song...
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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Ya but those guys are tossers. They got strong before learning how to do trad. That's unfair! God forbid someone learns a little technique and get's strong before learning how to place gear.
@ SeaClimb. Wtf?
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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all in jim:
those climbers are all washed up...duh!
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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he didn't call you a prick...he pointed out how your post came across. Personally, i think it did come across the way he pointed it out.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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They're showing signs of burnout.
Chris Sharma hasn't quite sent 5.15c yet. And Onsighting Moonlight Buttress wasn't cool because it was overhanging. He's burning out.
Tommy is just relaxing on a Portaledge on a blank route known as The Dawn Wall. Tosser should be doing Royal Arches or something burly!
Not sure who Katie Brown is, but i'm sure she's burnt out too! Oh wait isn't she the one in that Commercial with Alex? BURNTOUT
@ Reily. I'm sure your nice. I didn't call you a prick, but you come off as one.
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