Ashira and 14c- Thoughts?

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 220 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
So when does she dress up for a beauty pageant? I don't know, on one hand fair play to her, but on the other hand, why can't we let kids be kids instead of pushing them. I am not saying this young lady was being pushed, but it happens a lot by parents.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
Yeah, I don't get it...the TR's here get nothing but positive comments for another average ascent of Dana or some routine aid ascent of another grade V trade route (don't get me wrong, I think those things are awesome too)...but climbing that actually takes more than average talent and dedication gets bashed. Strong work.
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
"Jesus Christ this thread is full of sh*t bags.

There's a girl. She's 11. She's strong.

Not suffering through 10a doesn't make her cool?

No, it makes you an out of shape, no technique slob. (unless it's OW, then suffering may occur.)

I don't get why so many sh*theads on this forum bag on people who climb 5.15 / vHARD. "No skill" "no suffering" "plug gear" for f*cks sake. Everyone has different interests.

Bouldering."

^^^^ AWESOME


Folks...you should maybe attend a youth comp one of these days and get a look at what's happening...its sick in an awesome way...
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
moosedrool says:

"Although very impressive, achievements in a gym or on bolted sport routs are just circus tricks. Alpine/trad climbing is something very, very different. Just because Ashima is using rock for her gymnastics, doesn't mean she is a climber, yet. IMHO. "


and i suppose a high level FIS J1 or J2 slalom, GS, or downhiller is really not that great of a skier cuz he ain't shreddin' the backcountry, eh? More just circus tricks

Blahblahblah...
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
^^^^^^^^^^^

Oh definately.. racers usually suck

Racers like ice

They don't have a magazine called ICE do they? No it's called POWDER

hehe haven't dusted that old rant off for a while :)
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Blablah

I agree with you completely, we all have strengths.
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
Climb2ski,

hahahaha Touche`

Watch this punter ski some sick, bullet blue ICE on rails:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jv6WJr11xkQ

Cheers
;-)
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
Oh dammit...

wrong link...sorry 'bout that! !-)


michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
Different strokes for different folks.

10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
I hope this little gal gets a good mentor to teach here the ropes of trad because if you can climb 14c and you cant get up classics like Astroman or the Rostrum that to me would be sad.

+ 1

but, as someone already posted. there are signs of burnout.
she may never have the chance to climb the said classics
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
"classics"


F*cking christ. If Mirko can do it, Ashima can.


She's having fun pushing her limits on Bolts.

She's probably still not comfortable with getting up high.

She's 11. Bolts are plenty safe for her.



SIGNS OF BURNOUT??

ARE YOU KIDDING ME? What is wrong with you people?
She sends two 14c's in 7 days, and you guys say there are "signs of burning out" ? ? ? ? WHAT THE Hell.

Baggins

Boulder climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
I am sure there are boulder problems and routes where a say, 6' guy has to do a good lunge to get from hold to hold, and it's about V2 or V3 for that guy. If the little girl can't do that route, can the 6' guy say it's V12 or whatever, since it shut down a V-double-digit climber?

Agreed. Thats a microcosm, important for the difficulty a boulder problem, and sometimes for particular routes with acute cruxes. The beauty of rock of course is that it allows many differently shaped people to climb, sometimes using totally different sequences with different holds.

But in general, being small and thin doesnt alter the difficulty of a route. On average. Climbing has a great inbuilt counterbalance effect that generally keeps things even - e.g. small reach corresponds with small hands to make small intermediate dimples into usable holds. It doesnt create an unfair advantage, unless you think that being the most ideal shape to climb is somehow unfair and the ratings shouldnt apply to these people in the same way.

Im sorry to have got involved in a grade debate.. the bottom line is take grades with a pinch of salt - but not a spoonful!!
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
The grade debates here can't compare to 8a.nu's debates. And none of those guys talk about how cool struggling up 5.10 is on a public forum.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Also, Adam Ondra just flashed Southern Smoke Direct. That's the hardest flash EVER. And he rated it easier than it's graded. (graded 9a+/15a, he thinks 9a/14d)


But it wasn't struggling up a 5.10 so it's not cool. Or takes and skill. And it's not climbing.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
i have no thoughts of 14C.. Is that a shoe size???
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
Yes.
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
MichaelD,

Ondra flashed the direct start into Southern Smoke. That is what is 14d. Southern Smoke w/o the direct start is 14c.

michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
direct* ;)

I mean, pussies, Should be doing hard 5.9 trad in The Valley.
SeaClimb

climber
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
ha! punters...
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
I think it's great she's out climbin' hard boulders and sport climbs.

I hope her folks stay on top of any injuries she may get or develop. I really hope to see her talent in climbing - in whatever form that takes her to - for the long run.

As Dr. Ed pointed out - I think it was him - but I've also heard Chic Scott say it that most of us have a window in our late teens/early 20's for our Great Big Hard Routes.

But there are plenty of examples of folks climbing hard into their fifies ( in many cases having taken time out to raise family......... ) and sixties. Donini still gets at it. Mark Hudon. Croft. Plenty of others.

All depends on what ya want. When I was 11 I wanted to be world gymnastics champion. I had to settle for Western Canadian champion :-) . Then I got into climbing.........and then I had kids and then blahblahblah.

I actually hope Ashima does read these comments and learns to have a thick skin. All women need that most because there are always guys out there ready to knock us down for our achievements. Or worse........other women to do it too.

Ashima Rocks. Full Stop.
!!!!
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