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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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What gets lost in all this a bit is just how hard thses routes really are. Like always the best climbers make the impossible look easy. To me grades get exponetially harder. It's not linear. I mean there's such a huge difference between say 13a and 13c. Even more so between a 14a and a 14d for crying out loud.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
SLO, Ca
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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Good for her.
Kids that crush threads always draw the "she can't climb cracks" or "let's see her on some 70s runout slab" comments. What BS. Crack climbing is just climbing not some mysterious art--put your hand or finger in the crack and pull. 99% of the climbing population does not climb dangerous run out climbs so I've never understood why they are always upheld as some general measurement of ability.
My only concern if it was my kid would be muscle and tendon development.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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I recall watching Chris Lindner lead Robbins Crack (10a) for his first time. He was 4 y.o. (87-88?). And soloed it shortly therafter. And a month or two after that, he sends Starving In Stereo (12a/crack). Lead his first 13a sport at the age of 9! And his first 14c at 16. So, he continued on to climb harder and harder stuff. And is still stoked about climbing.
"Climbing, in my opinion, is the coolest sport in the world, and I enjoy helping people realize that." Chris Lindner (2010)
So, it seems as though CL was & is having a lot of fun climbing. That is what it is all about, having fun. Hopefully, so is Ashira. And, imo, that is all we should be concerned about (in regards to her) that she is having a lot of fun, ... eh? So, what's with all the drama?
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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First of - amazing stuff. These japanese (little) women seem to be leading the world, and I am thrilled at the prospect of seeing the sport develop with their efforts.
I dont understand this comment:
Fabulous accomplishments, but the ratings were developed for adult males with adult male strength-to-weight ratios, not ratios which likely run quite significantly higher than that.
Ummm. There's nothing wrong with the ratings. Turns out, being small and thin is the most ideal body shape for climbing very very hard routes and boulders.
Ratings are body shape (hand size) dependent for crack climbs of course, but thats not relevant to Ashimas climbing (yet).
I understand that old school tradsters cant understand what 5.14+ means. I certainly cant. But its fair to say that most of these cutting edge sport climbers could probably make el cap look like a walk in the park, if sufficiently motivated.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Jesus Christ this thread is full of sh*t bags.
There's a girl. She's 11. She's strong.
Not suffering through 10a doesn't make her cool?
No, it makes you an out of shape, no technique slob. (unless it's OW, then suffering may occur.)
I don't get why so many sh*theads on this forum bag on people who climb 5.15 / vHARD. "No skill" "no suffering" "plug gear" for f*cks sake. Everyone has different interests.
Bouldering.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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Joseph said:
Fabulous accomplishments, but the ratings were developed for adult males with adult male strength-to-weight ratios, not ratios which likely run quite significantly higher than that.
Response:
This is a typical response...blah blah blah she has an advantage blah blah blah...
I could point out that her technique is FLAWLESS compared to 99% of adults, including YOU(Drew has spent a fair bit of time climbing with her and is no slouch in that department. I could also point out that she's about 4'-8" tall. I might also point out that she's been training HARD for more than half a decade with high level coaches...
I think that "we" the older generation are being faced with a revolution in the sport and that is that.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
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Riley said:
"Yea, I wanna see her climb supercrack & see how that goes.
Many don't even bother with 5.10 & 5.11 anymore it seems. 5.12 is the new 5.8 for kids these days. Virtually none of these little phenoms seem to give two turds about pluggin gear, baggin peaks, or suffering either, WTF?!
Difficulty &/or grades is the endgame for the next generation it would appear.
Amazing stuff they are doing, I'd love to see these little kids crushing in person.
edit: good point below Jim, the kids are unstoppable"
Uhhh you might not be that informed as to what these kids can do with cracks and they can plug gear as well as or better than 90% of adults.
Just sayin'...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Alpine/trad climbing is something very, very different.
What does that have to do with anything? Seriously. Who is saying otherwise?
You bro's need to get your Test levels checked. Little girl has you all clawing at myths like an old Sensei teaching his dragon nonsense bullshit to wide eyed kids...
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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The fact that a little girl did something amazing and people are grasping at negativities speaks volumes about the inner monologue that must play inside your head.
opinions are like as#@&%es, everyone has them and they all stink.
Ashima is a bad mother f*#ker. You don't have to like sport climbing, you don't have to like the mentality that high-end athletics brings, hell you don't even have to like the f*#king Red.
Whether it is rock climbing or tennis, this little girl did something amazing. Just appreciate it. Doesn't cost you anything to be decent.
^^^This
SPOT ON!!!!
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Ummm. There's nothing wrong with the ratings. Turns out, being small and thin is the most ideal body shape for climbing very very hard routes and boulders.
Ratings are body shape (hand size) dependent for crack climbs of course, but thats not relevant to Ashimas climbing (yet).
I'll try one more time.
I am sure there are boulder problems and routes where a say, 6' guy has to do a good lunge to get from hold to hold, and it's about V2 or V3 for that guy. If the little girl can't do that route, can the 6' guy say it's V12 or whatever, since it shut down a V-double-digit climber?
(To make this concrete, consider the route "Take That, Katie Brown," although that's apparently a very hard route by any standard. No crack involved.)
It's not just cracks that are size dependent. And I agree (and it's obvious) that "being small and thin is the most ideal body shape for climbing very very hard routes," but only most of the time.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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So when does she dress up for a beauty pageant? I don't know, on one hand fair play to her, but on the other hand, why can't we let kids be kids instead of pushing them. I am not saying this young lady was being pushed, but it happens a lot by parents.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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Yeah, I don't get it...the TR's here get nothing but positive comments for another average ascent of Dana or some routine aid ascent of another grade V trade route (don't get me wrong, I think those things are awesome too)...but climbing that actually takes more than average talent and dedication gets bashed. Strong work.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
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"Jesus Christ this thread is full of sh*t bags.
There's a girl. She's 11. She's strong.
Not suffering through 10a doesn't make her cool?
No, it makes you an out of shape, no technique slob. (unless it's OW, then suffering may occur.)
I don't get why so many sh*theads on this forum bag on people who climb 5.15 / vHARD. "No skill" "no suffering" "plug gear" for f*cks sake. Everyone has different interests.
Bouldering."
^^^^ AWESOME
Folks...you should maybe attend a youth comp one of these days and get a look at what's happening...its sick in an awesome way...
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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moosedrool says:
"Although very impressive, achievements in a gym or on bolted sport routs are just circus tricks. Alpine/trad climbing is something very, very different. Just because Ashima is using rock for her gymnastics, doesn't mean she is a climber, yet. IMHO. "
and i suppose a high level FIS J1 or J2 slalom, GS, or downhiller is really not that great of a skier cuz he ain't shreddin' the backcountry, eh? More just circus tricks
Blahblahblah...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Oh definately.. racers usually suck
Racers like ice
They don't have a magazine called ICE do they? No it's called POWDER
hehe haven't dusted that old rant off for a while :)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Blablah
I agree with you completely, we all have strengths.
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SeaClimb
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Oh dammit...
wrong link...sorry 'bout that! !-)
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Different strokes for different folks.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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I hope this little gal gets a good mentor to teach here the ropes of trad because if you can climb 14c and you cant get up classics like Astroman or the Rostrum that to me would be sad.
+ 1
but, as someone already posted. there are signs of burnout.
she may never have the chance to climb the said classics
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