Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
|
Hey Riley, I don't think you should bow out of the conversation... I like your ideas and don't think you come off like a prick. f*#k 'em...!
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
|
I'm sorry if I gave off the impression I am really *that* upset about it, I am not... just the way I like to communicate on forums. like a PMS'ing chick.
f*#king soy.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
|
Why don't you people let ASHIMA do her thing and care about yourself? If to her climbing is about acrobatics, strength, training, and difficulty, than let her do what she enjoys. All you Croft and Bachar-worshiping groupies think those guys didn't train HARD for their feats? Or you don't think U. Steck trains? Those guys were not perfect, and trained hard for what they did. What they did of course is different from what she does, but who knows what she will do when she is their age??? That will remain a mystery for now. Let the young crush, maybe one day they will end up doing impressive stuff in the mountains as well.
TheChief! Come on man! "Put her on this run out blah blah blah..." omfg, it's a kid!... for some reason I am not surprised...
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
|
I actually like your posts GDavis.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
|
I've also heard Chic Scott say it that most of us have a window in our late teens/early 20's for our Great Big Hard Routes.
Oh f*#k my life! Why didn't I start climbing before 24?!? Should I quit now? Since it is obviously useless to continue.
Steve House didn't do the Rupal Face before 25! :)
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
|
Sharma is in his 30's. He's come quite a few grades since his late teens early twenties.
|
|
Loose Rocks
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
|
Exception, he hangs out in a small crowd. Rule, that's one popular dude.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
|
I've also heard Chic Scott say it that most of us have a window in our late teens/early 20's for our Great Big Hard Routes.
He is ABSOLUTELY correct. However, we don't know who is able, and who is unable, to do great difficult things into their later years. The only way to find out is to commit to climbing wholly, mind body and spirit, and give it 100% of your focus and attention. If you fall short, you did so with discipline.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
|
Climbing is a complex endevour.. while pure athletic ability is a component it is not the most important perhaps.
There is much left to accomplish in climbing.
Opportunities for those who dare at any age.
Meru Sharks Fin? Not the realm of pre-teens for sure.
How many really care to challenge the state of the art? Some for sure and that is a rewarding possibility for some. A place where pure athletic ability is a huge advantage
Great thing about climbing is that the same amount of individual challenge and reward is available to each participant at every level.
Unless one cares too much what others think of them.
I have honestly been as excited for a newbie doing Grack as I was watching Hans and Alex break the nose speed record.
On the same day in the same valley.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
|
I think the idea that "talent" has much, if anything, to do with steep enduro pulling (e.g. The Red, where everyone goes to tick their big numbers), is misguided.
I also think that climbs are generally rated for the average sized person. It's the reason that number ratings on crack climbs can be ridiculous if you have exceptionally large or small hands. 5.13 fingerstacks...for a guy with 5" fists and sausage fingers who is getting bomb fingerlocks instead of stacks...c'mon it's at least a number easier for him. Same deal for the small hands woman who is getting baggy/off fists in "5.10" blue camalots cracks...she can hike "5.12" rings (getting hands, at 5.10) but shutdown on "5.10" cups...because it's not 5.10 for her, it's 5.11ow.
So the concept than a tiny young child, who is getting two-pad deep jugs, where the rating is for an avg person who would be getting half-pad deep crimps, is climbing as "hard" just doesn't ring true.
It's great to see young kids who give it everything, try hard, get tenacious, etc. And many of them go on to climb bigger numbers even after they've grown to adult body size. Many don't. Clearly this young lady is at the top of heap among her peers.
But to pretend they are having the same experience on a route as someone of the avg body size, and comparing their accomplishments under that assumption, is silly...just like pretending that a route with spaced out holds that an adult can easily reach between is just as easy for the kid when they have to dyno between them.
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
|
yeah...and Hussein Bolt really isn't that fast compared to the rest of us...he just has a body built for that, i'd like to see his time w/ my beer gut...he prolly doesn't train that much either...
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
|
"Love to see her get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to my line in Pine Creek"
The oblivious self-caricature in this statement is priceless. no wonder people dismiss this forum as a bunch of irrelevant , has-been blowhards.
I hope the kid enjoys herself and does things for her own reasons, out of love and joy. just like all of us.
Peace.
Rob
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
|
^ and ^^
Agree.
Has-been blowhards,
And Hussein Bolt isn't talented, he's just built to run fast.
Ashima's parents are Hella Japanese.
The tallest she'll be is MAYBE a foot taller then she's at now. Her hands won't grow that much, If anything she'll get STRONGER.
Saying she's only crushing because her hands are small is stupid as sh*t and you should stick to gym climbing.
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
|
yep...another punter...world is full of them!
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
|
Saying she's only crushing because her hands are small is stupid as sh*t and you should stick to gym climbing
How sweet. Angry little man is angry. And doesn't have well developed reading comprehension.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
|
Btw, I should correct myself. It is good to discuss, and brainstorm about here (is it ok to load kids with HARD TRAINING at such young age etc), but I do not think it was ok to tell her to do things, such as "Love to see her get on and flash Raliegh Collins's A-Hills .12a blank clean face testpiece or Henny's new totally blank clean face .13+ project next to my line in Pine Creek"
NO DUDE, YOU GET ON IT! Especially knowing that your line is no harder than 5.10.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
|
If anyone in this thread can comment on high-end sport climbing, El Cap can pull some rank...
I think its impossible to quantify how much easier it must be for her because of the style of climbing. There is an advantage on small holds, but there are disadvantages in sections where you move past 5.11 jugs that are spaced.
I have no f*#king clue, maybe the route is 5.12 for her. Maybe its 5.15b. No point in arguing either way because doesn't really matter....
The standard of measurement is all wonky because of this, and it confuses many - like trying to divide by zero.
Want to really know? Empirically? Ask her when she is older what she thinks of those routes. I'll bet she will still be able to do them...
|
|
Jimmy Russells
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
|
F*#K IT LET'S PUT HER ON PERILOUS JOURNEY HAHAHAHAHA LITTLE GIRL WHAT NOW???
Jeez, fellas. God forbid some 11 year old starts crushing sport climbs. Sounds like some crusty old skool trad jimmies got stuck in a fistjam and needed to be rustled out.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
|
AAAAAAGGGGHHHHHH!!! LETS PUT HER ON SOUTHERN BELLE AND SEE WHAT SHE DOES ON IT!
bunch of insecure wankers...
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!