toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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so what?
in 10 minutes I could get any Rhesus monkey to onsight 5.15 sport
same deal
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
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re. 10b4me - bring her to the Valley, or IC and let's see how she likes crack climbing
The New Generation(on topic) - http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1964450
So Mirko, what are you climbing tomorrow?
Me: My first multi-pitch and my first crack climb
Dan & Luke: Which one?
Me: The Rostrum!
Dan & Luke: Really?? Dude! Good luck.... :-)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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No one claims that 16 year old gymnasts aren't really at their peak on account of their size. No one asks to watch the upsized weight class instead for more valid tricks.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
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the consequences of a life threatening sport.
Like cheerleading, skiing, gymnastics....
Yea, I wanna see her climb supercrack & see how that goes.
I wanna see you send 2 5.14C's. What makes you think she can't accomplish that if she put her efforts and mind into it?
This number sh#t is so f*#king boring..
Makes me want to quit the sport and be a hiker....
Others interpretations and goals in climbing should never, ever influence you. Why should you give a f*#k what other people are inspired by, if it doesn't affect you? What are you, Republican?
suck diiiicks haters.
:) kisses!
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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. Others interpretations and goals in climbing should never, ever influence you. Why should you give a f*#k what other people are inspired by, if it doesn't affect you?
No affection - just an opinion
It is a subtle thing..
But alas, it is important....
I think...
The cult of it all....
And Apine Cult seems even more stupid...
Not what I am taking about....
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crasic
climber
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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A friend of mine who climbs with her and some of her family members says she is already starting to burn out, with all the pressure put on her.
Every year you hear stories about those kids who go to college at the age of 12 or whatever. But you never hear stories about amazing discoveries, or Nobel Prizes (or other prizes) won by these wunderkinds. Something at somepoint goes wrong.
Hopefully, she finds something to keep herself going with the sport. Simply being good is not enough motivation in the long run.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Tami nailed it.
She always does.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Hey Gdavis not saying she couldn't, just saying I'd like to see it. I think it's interesting how so many of the kids that are blowing up the climbing world are so focused on this one aspect of what climbing has to offer generally, difficulty. When/if they do learn about and endeavor to trad/alpine/wall climb its always interesting to see how it goes. A lot of kid rock stars go on to forge their own path.
Actually you know what, I'd rather see her coach Obe on supercrack.
I like how honest Riley is haha
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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Crasic, Sasha DiGiulian just started her freshman year at Columbia Univ. in NYC this fall. There is hope.
Would love to see her be the high end climber she is AND a nobel prize winner. :)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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> Every year you hear stories about those kids who go to college at the age of 12 or whatever. But you never hear stories about amazing discoveries, or Nobel Prizes (or other prizes) won by these wunderkinds. Something at somepoint goes wrong.
This is a pretty different subject - going to college at age 12.
There are child prodigy scholars who don't burn out, though.
An example is John von Neumann.
He went to school at regular grade level (at the insistence of his father) but had private tutors so he could learn independently.
"As a 6 year old, he could divide two 8-digit numbers in his head.
By the age of 8, he was familiar with differential and integral calculus."
He made a lot of discoveries in so many fields, and didn't burn out.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_von_Neumann
He didn't win a Nobel Prize, but there's no Nobel Prize in Math, and there wasn't one in Econ when he was alive.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:43am PT
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When the kid solos the north twin, comes back to civilization with a 1,000 yard stare and says nothing,(no photos, no vimeo videos, nothing more than a one line blurb)-then gets bitten by the bug and climbs through into their 80's.-then and only then will I accept sport climbing as a valid training venue.
(see Fred Beckey and second ascent of Waddington as a teenager.)
otherwise flash in pan. Rodden and Brown are really not cutting edge anymore-sorta like Nadia Comăneci. Sharma still has not gone alpine climbing.
-starting my 32 year, still doing FA's that no one will hear about for at least a decade ha ha ha.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:53am PT
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My basic deep and considered reflection, after reflecting on my 30+ years climbing, across the spectrum from peak bagging to bouldering, trad 'n sport, wooden blocks to glued in rebars, goldline to 9.8 singles, burned crotch from dulfersitz to popped ring finger tendon from cranking, pemmican to goo, is that it's pretty damn amazing.
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Silver
Ice climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:57am PT
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Yeah but can she climb Donner 5.8+
Cool for her.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:30am PT
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The fact that a little girl did something amazing and people are grasping at negativities speaks volumes about the inner monologue that must play inside your head.
opinions are like as#@&%es, everyone has them and they all stink.
Ashima is a bad mother f*#ker. You don't have to like sport climbing, you don't have to like the mentality that high-end athletics brings, hell you don't even have to like the f*#king Red.
Whether it is rock climbing or tennis, this little girl did something amazing. Just appreciate it. Doesn't cost you anything to be decent.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:32am PT
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Rodden and Brown are really not cutting edge anymore
Brown has freed several valley big walls (WFLT, NWFHD, gave an attempt on Zodiac with Honnold) and Rodden has had to deal with a career ending injury - AFTER a divorce. She's also freed more el cap routes than any other woman, and almost any man, all in her 20's.
Yeah... they just never really performed to their potential : /
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:48am PT
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The fact that a little girl did something amazing and people are grasping at negativities speaks volumes about the inner monologue that must play inside your head.
opinions are like as#@&%es, everyone has them and they all stink.
Ashima is a bad mother f*#ker. You don't have to like sport climbing, you don't have to like the mentality that high-end athletics brings, hell you don't even have to like the f*#king Red.
Whether it is rock climbing or tennis, this little girl did something amazing. Just appreciate it. Doesn't cost you anything to be decent.
^^^This
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:49am PT
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Hmm I'm not sure this requires much deep thought really.
She is impressively good. Very Cool
From a pure technical point of view it is not surprising to see young gals excelling. It is a gymnastic sport. People have seen this coming for decades.
What does it mean to my climbing? Not much other than it's cool to hear about.
I sure don't see why it's bothering anyone. Hmmm I guess I can imagine why it might for some people. Your identity would have to be waaaay too caught up in competitive numbers if it does.
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:58am PT
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GDavis agreed. grasping at negatives... or just grasping.
"Yeah but ...can she...?"
Seriously???
Wow.
Supertopo amazes me....again.
She's an amazing little girl. To whatever degree there's any similarity between her "sport" and my "sport" I can at least identify with the drive that motivates her to push her own limits. It's fantastic. I wish her the best.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:30am PT
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Every single one of the young climbers who looked to me to do all the onsight leading surpassed me in every aspect of climbing and IT MAKES ME FEEL GOOD!
The next generation should surpass us that is the way of the world. She will mentor someone in the future who will surpass her!!
Good for her!
I'm climbing better than I ever have and still am probably the worst climber at the crag. Just started sport climbing because it's what overhanging limestone has and I love it! Not turning my back on my roots in trad but I have new friends who sport climb. Watched a guy make a stick clip out of bamboo and clip a bolt 9 feet off the deck---I kept my mouth shut---he was leading I was belaying it's his ass, motherf#%@r red pointed sustained 5.12b. I led it ground up or shut up to the third bolt and was scared of decking at the 2nd clip and couldn't pull the 3rd 5.12 move (1 finger pocket). I was happy for my buddy who fired it and happy for me also now I have a new goal= get stronger, use better footwork. I can't be 12 again but I can be 40 going on 12.
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