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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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that little girl can crush harder than probably all the negative wankers on this thread and most importanatly has a smile on her face. go have another beer or whiskey that should make you insecure wankers feel better about yourself.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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The standard of measurement is all wonky
That was my entire point. Nothing to do with the particular young lady in question. And no, I can't pull rank on anyone. You don't have to climb any particular rating to know that bigger holds on the same terrain = less difficult, and tiny hands means bigger holds. Why this blindly obvious concept riles people up is beyond me.
People point to Sharma, Caldwell, etc as young guns who didn't burn out and continued to climb harder as they grew into adult sized frames. But if you really tease that out a bit, they didn't progress as much as we might have expected...and I put a lot of that down to growing into an adult body. Think about it, both those guys ticked Necessary Evil, which at 14c was supposed to be the hardest route in the US at the time, when they were 15/16 (IIRC, they were actually road tripping together that summer). And about 5 years later they'd done what? 14d. Sharma did the first 15a at 20. One to two letter grades, while being essentially full time professional climbers?
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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The fact that a little girl did something amazing and people are grasping at negativities speaks volumes about the inner monologue that must play inside your head.
opinions are like as#@&%es, everyone has them and they all stink.
Ashima is a bad mother f*#ker. You don't have to like sport climbing, you don't have to like the mentality that high-end athletics brings, hell you don't even have to like the f*#king Red.
Whether it is rock climbing or tennis, this little girl did something amazing. Just appreciate it. Doesn't cost you anything to be decent.
this is my take too. I appreciate trad and alpine and all the mental aspects of both; it doesn't diminish how other worldly this accomplishment is.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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My biggest problem with Ashima's latest outing at the Red is those were the same routes I wanted to be ticking when I was there. If she had just sucked it up and tried some harder routes I wouldn't have had to stand around wasting my precious time waiting for my turn to work those climbs:-)
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Gilwad
climber
Frozen In Somewhere
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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Sport climbing is by far the hardest genre of climbing to get "good" at. This is proven by the sport climbers who go on to dominate in alpine climbing (Steck, Destiville, JC Lafaille, etc etc) vs. the alpinists who get any good at sport climbing (none). Edlinger did Sphinx crack either onsight or very quickly, same with Yuji Hirayama... The sportsters have always dominated any genre they get into, not so of the others genres getting into sport climbing. Too much commitment required for sport climbing, while staggering uphill requires very little in comparison.
I've done a lot of sport climbing, alpine climbing and ice climbing. Holding up alpine climbing as being somehow the pinnacle of climbing is like holding up Everest as being the most difficult climb because it's the highest. Please.
As for Ashira, if she burns out tomorrow and is done with climbing she will have done something beautiful and cool. Unlike all the people saying the routes are easy for her because of her size; I recall some losers saying the same thing about Lynn HIll's fingers and her ascent of the nose (Oh, and Lynn wasn't a half bad sport climber in her day either)... Get your egos in check and stand in awe of something really amazing. There are probably problems for Ashira in life, but I bet she sorts 'em out better than the average kid.
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t-bone
climber
Bishop
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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Funny how some psuedo-hardmen's identities can't handle the thought of a 12 yo girl climbing harder than them.
…but she isn't a real "climber" cause blah blah blah.
Good luck dealing with your midlife crisis.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
overchalking on Grant's Crack
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Oct 30, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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Yeah but...RUNOUTS...OFFWIDTHS....BITD....blah blah blah
(slinks off to fondle swami belt)
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LabRat314
Ice climber
Squamish
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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I BET SHE COULDNT LEAD A6+
Just kidding. This girl pulls hard. Awesome. I hope she keeps it up for a long time.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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A6 woudn't be a problem; she weighs as much as 2 monster 20 ozers
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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Good for her.....
climb hard and get the reward.
She can rope gun for me, don't know if I could clean the gear.
I remember a little 6 year old Linder kid, powering up 11D/12A it
was fun to watch.
I don't know about the TACO sometimes, lots of folks grousing about how many angeles can dance on a pin head.
relax
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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Michaeld:
Saying she's only crushing because her hands are small is stupid as sh*t and you should stick to gym climbing
Elcapinyoazz:
How sweet. Angry little man is angry. And doesn't have well developed reading comprehension.
Hmmm...
Elcapinyoazz:
So the concept than a tiny young child, who is getting two-pad deep jugs, where the rating is for an avg person who would be getting half-pad deep crimps, is climbing as "hard" just doesn't ring true.
Okay, my bad reading comprehension is still bad. Enlighten me. What did I miss?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 30, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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Sure are a lot of strawmen being burned in this thread. Lot of projection too.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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It is OK to have the discussion about how a persons body may affect their climbing and how certain climbing areas lend themselves to certain body types... I talk about this all the time. It's a natural thought to have.
What ISN'T natural is trying to reason why it is that she must be great, and why that reason really isn't all that impressive. That thought comes from an entirely different place.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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that little girl can crush harder than probably all the negative wankers on this thread and most importanatly has a smile on her face. go have another beer or whiskey that should make you insecure wankers feel better about yourself.
She is completely rad, congrats… I think like women’s gymnastics, there may come a time in sport climbing when you are over the hill by the time you hit 21. Then you can legally hit the beer and whiskey and rest on your laurels while you talk trash about the next crew that is ripping it up. But I doubt a 11 y/o can truely appreciate a good single malt!
Too much commitment required for sport climbing, while staggering uphill requires very little in comparison
In alpine climbing, sometimes it takes a ton of commitment just to find a safe place to sleep. It is all climbing and all good, but until an 11 y/o fires off the Rupal face don’t put down the commitment required for high end alpine climbing.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
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Being one-time gymnasts, Pat Ament and I used to joke about rock climbing turning into girls gymnastics (why use the word "womens" when they are barely 16, if that). When I started climbing in 1953, I did so because it was largely a "mans" sport and I could use it to develop a manly physique. Leather knickers, stocking caps and sweating,bulging muscles, that sort of thing. Isn't that hilarious in this day and age!
If I valued my climbing so much I should have stayed at 145 pounds, and 6'2", not gain the 40 pounds of muscle I did doing gymnastics and bodyweight exercises. But, know what? I can still do some of that stuff and I get a more enjoyable workout than toiling on some boulder problem put up by a skinny, little kid.
Recently, I've speculated that women (girls) could successfully compete with men on the horizontal bar - they do the same moves on the uneven bars.
Men, return to weight lifting, where you will always succeed! Or bodybuilding, where your manly form will be appreciated. Leave climbing to thin little waifs, and let them reconfigure the ratings systems. Be a man! Wear lederhosen, mountain boots, and smoke you masculine pipe.
;>)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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Leather knickers, stocking caps and sweating,bulging muscles, that sort of thing.
Sounds like the missing member of the Village People.
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all in jim
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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180lbs - V15. Think Fred's making excuses?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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I spent a LOT of time, a TON of training, working on HER discipline. She f*#ks me up on rock.
I have some old-guy tricks that might stave off the younger generation... for a little while... but they be comin', baby.
GilWad (Will Gadd, one of the greatest ice climbers to ever live) echos sentiments I think, too - all that gear-placing, thoughtful protection, belay building sh#t comes fast. I became about as 'smart' as a trad climber while being 50lbs overweight and never training. Once I took bouldering seriously as an art I started to onsight 5.10 instead of fall on 5.7's.... it all helps, but the physicality of HARD climbing is harder for some than all that other stuff.
Just my .02....
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Having long been out of the climbing ring, my hopes are that this little girl looks at a completely blank wall with no routes on it and decides to put an incredible climb on it!!!
If this is what she can do at this age, with a little maturity she will surpass most if not all going forward.
Props to the young ones as they continue to stomp what many think impossible.
P.S. Age should not be your gauge on anyone's stature. The mind will get you anywhere
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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In watching the video of the contest, it is certainly amazing what those tho little girls have accomplished, but my impression of the routes is that there is a sameness to all of them; very steep, lunges, sloping holds.
It would be more interesting to see longer roped climbs; even if bolted, so that they could show their skill on off widths, flared chimneys, stemming, etc.
Not to mention a trad climbing contest, where they have to carry a rack.
Maybe someday someone will gut out a huge 1,200 foot high rise and make a large scale climbing gym.
I understand this was a bouldering contest, so there are more limitations.
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