Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
zxcvbnm
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
|
Fred said he weighs 165 lbs in an interview
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
|
THere is no way Fred Nicole weighed 180 lbs...maybe 145 tops in his prime...the dude is like 5'-6"...
hahahaha
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
|
aspendoughy,
these kids can and do crush cracks, all kinds. my boy, at age 12 could crush 5.11 offwidths, 5.12 fingers, all types of hands, etc.
Face it guys, these kids are highly trained, only worry about school, have no kids themselves to worry about, coaches that no how to climb and "soccer" parents willing to get them everything they need. You can't compete with this...don't feel bad, you can't compete in girls gymnastics, but you still appreciate it, right?
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
|
So what if she climbs for another five years and then finds it boring, unrewarding and a self centered headtrip, or whatever. Or quits tomorrow cuz she decided she wanted to commit her life to serving other people, instead of pleasing a bunch of over the hill wannbee flakes. Or she has already quit and its nobodies business why and what she is gonna do with the rest of her life!
What a lame thread. Ain't you people got anything better to do?????!!
Oh yeah, this is SuperDopo!!!
edit: I mean really, is success or failure in climbing a f*#kin rock the be all and endall in life on this planet? How you judge your fellow human beings? Put them on pedestal's and then knock them down when they nolonger meet YOUR standards/criteria, or whatever?
She is 11 y.o., for goodness sakes, give her a f'n break. No wonder kid's "burnout" and whatever they were enjoying is no longer "fun" because they're being scrutinized night and day over every iota of their frickin lives!! Sheeeeesh!!!!
And people wonder why young girls become so weight conscious and bulemic or whatever and end up like Karen Carpenter, thin as a rail and ... F'n, DEAD!!!
edit/edit: BUT, personally, I hope she goes on to crush the hell out of every F'n Stone on the planet (if that's HER desire) ... (and is having the MOST fun = the winner, ala Alex Lowe "Whoever is having the most fun wins!")!
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 12:15am PT
|
rad. that is so kuehl.
ewe old phuckers better prey she doesnt take up "trad" climbing.
for a start, lucille would become a 5.6 chimney. supercrack would be an easy layback.
she's still at an age where she learns languages overnight. how long would it take her to learn how to place a hex? it's not brain science.
alpinism is another question. experience counts there because you build up a local vocabulary of conditions.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:24am PT
|
in the latest Real Rock Film Tour there was a video of Sharma and Ondra working a Sharma project in Spain... I thought for sure I wouldn't like it at all, not that I have anything against endless scenes of repeated grunting-while-hucking-for-holds-on-overhanging-faces activities that I couldn't ever touch...
the main point of the video, besides showing the protagonists in a golden light (Chris was the "old man" in this one!) was that they didn't succeed, it was a whole video in which they failed.
that is so much more genuine that I actually fell for it...
We all try to do things that are too hard for us to do, at least in climbing. It is a great activity that way, it is unique. There is no way I can participate in the World Series or the Super Bowl or the World Cup, but I can attempt Midnight Lightning and even get cheered on by our "sport's" superstars (as had been reported in a TR elsewhere on this site by someone).
Yosemite is open, it is the Super Bowl and we can go there and play the game at any level... or challenge ourselves to. And at every level there is accomplishment and satisfaction and achievement.
While we complain as a group about the popularity of climbing (at least us old crustys) we somehow loss sight of the fact that we have an intensely personal affinity to going out and climbing. Who cares who else is doing it... I'm doing it
Hudon and Croft and Donini and many others (Freddy, you're up there too!) are inspirational to me, hopefully to others much younger than me, because they get out there and climb at a high level, still, and they still have an ocean of enthusiasm for it... they're obviously having fun, and perhaps getting something more meaningful out of it too.
And the young climbers are also inspirational, and amazing, because they represent climbing and are actually taking it somewhere, and they do it as a part of the historical progression, giving their own twist on it, bringing their innovations and their fresh look.
I remember the first time I saw Yosemite Valley, the March morning I woke up after the late night drive in. I don't see the Valley like that, exactly, anymore, but I know there are those who do, and I'm excited for them.
Ashira is legitimately doing hard routes and deserves the recognition. Who knows or even who cares what she'll do with it, I hope she's having at least as much fun as I am.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:26am PT
|
how long would it take her to learn how to place a hex? it's not brain science.
And she's Japanese - have you SEEN their arcade games?! That sh#t be intricate.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:35am PT
|
yikes, I was the only one who mentioned "alpine" and got slapped down by Gadd for it...
hopefully I wasn't so incoherent to have been interpreted as opining alpine is the epitome of climbing!
rather it is demonstrably different than sport climbing, I believe Alex Lowe was also accomplished in that, but the indifference of objective hazards to one's hardest red-point ability was tragic.
Certainly on the other side of the frontier I was talking about...
|
|
nick d
Trad climber
nm
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 04:05am PT
|
The only thing that creeps me out about this is the "already trained under several talented coaches" bit. Like in gymnastics where they make the kids starve themselves to put off the onset of puberty so they can stay competetive?
Or doing hormones or other drugs for the same purpose? Adults should not be channeling their goals into little kids, just let them do what they want, what is fun for them. Think about all those creepy gymnastics coaches you see at the bigtime meets. Do you want your kid mentally dominated by people like that?
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 11:20am PT
|
^^^^
Having a coach != taking steroids and starving yourself.
Geez louis, stop projecting. Way to cast judgement before ever meeting her, or her parents.
|
|
CalicoJack
climber
CA
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
|
Routes just are. Difficulty is an individual issue, stemming from the confluence of the climber's characteristics with those of the route. Our numbers are imperfect assemblages of individually assessed difficulties from each climber's internally relative scale, which of course is tempered to some degree by interactions with the 'consensus'. How can we truly know what the difficulties are for any given individual, short of intensively scrutinizing their morphometrics, psychological state, etc. and considering these factors in terms of each section of each route they attempt? And even then...
Every meeting of route and climber is so complex, but the outcome is pretty binary - climbed or not. Ashima has climbed some amazing routes, and that is amazing!
Much respect & best wishes to her,
Andy
|
|
AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
|
The only thing that creeps me out about this is the "already trained under several talented coaches" bit. Like in gymnastics where they make the kids starve themselves to put off the onset of puberty so they can stay competetive?
Or doing hormones or other drugs for the same purpose? Adults should not be channeling their goals into little kids, just let them do what they want, what is fun for them. Think about all those creepy gymnastics coaches you see at the bigtime meets. Do you want your kid mentally dominated by people like that?
One can definitely discuss the merits of young children doing rigorous training programs. As a physical therapist, I unfortunately see kids all the time with overuse injuries or traumatic injuries for sports, where I live the big sports for kids seem to be skiing, hockey and soccer. I am so out of it I didn’t even know kids now need personal climbing coaches, but I guess like tennis, gymnastics, skiing, etc., you have to start young if you want to make a splash. I know for running it is very controversial in how much young kids should train. Runner’s peak later in life and over training can lead to injuries that just won’t go away. Most parents want their kids to be active, childhood obesity is a growing problem, but no parent wants their kids to get injured. Participation in sports provides a great opportunity for young people. But, if the demands and expectations exceed the maturation and readiness of the child, the positive aspects of participation can be negated.
The whole issue of parents and other adult involvement is another story altogether.
Climbing has evolved, when I was young no coaches or parent, climbing had a little antisocial tint to the game.
Hope she keeps ripping it up
|
|
Baggins
Boulder climber
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
|
Every meeting of route and climber is so complex, but the outcome is pretty binary - climbed or not. Ashima has climbed some amazing routes, and that is amazing!
Well said!
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
|
Not putting Honnold down one bit, he's one of my favorite climbers to be in awe of, but Ashima boulders harder than him. Lol.
Ashima does have some really good coaching.... But she's genetically gifted.
Do any of you tossers judging her by her "coaching, probably on hormone enhancer" know who her parents are?
They make way more money than you guys.
They're way more acrobatic than you guys.
They're way more positive than you guys.
They support her daughter %100 in what she wants to do.
Holy crap, an 11 year old who WANTS to CLIMB hard?
|
|
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
|
I think it is great that she is 11 yrs old and is climbing hard stuff. But it is only sport climbing with a bolt like every 5 feet . It is not very risky at all. And comparing it to gymnastics and coaching is not appropriate gymnastics is way more difficult than sport climbing; And unfortunately requires alot of coaching. Now if she is high balling she is moving into a whole different mental/physical environment with real life consequences.
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
|
heresy...complete heresy...
word on the street is they beat her if she doesn't put big numbers up!!! [kidding, btw]
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
|
"I think it is great that she is 11 yrs old and is climbing hard stuff. But it is only sport climbing with a bolt like every 5 feet . It is not very risky at all. And comparing it to gymnastics and coaching is not appropriate gymnastics is way more difficult than sport climbing; And unfortunately requires alot of coaching. Now if she is high balling she is moving into a whole different mental/physical environment with real life consequences. "
you are clearly not in touch...14c is kind of hard...sort of almost world class...
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
|
PSP, why the f*ck would you want an 11yo to risk her life?
All you guys have ego problems. Seriously. It's an 11 year old, little girl. She's making v12 cruxes and linking them with easier v9+ cruxes. And you're degrading her accomplishments because they aren't risky?
Okay, go do Southern Belle. It's kind of like a sport climb. Go be risky. Tosser.
|
|
SeaClimb
climber
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
|
michaeld,
ondra's a punter...seriously, there's a bolt every 5 feet...ashima is a punter by associative property.
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
|
These "climbers" trying to discredit an 11 year old of her V13 / 5.14c accomplishments have no idea. They probably think they're cool when projecting v4's or v5's in the gym.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!