Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 202 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:06am PT
5'1.875"


THE HORROR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:-)

J
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 10:06am PT
Seriously, I don't get it. How were the guys able to drill in bolts so far apart from each other, and couldn't hammer in pitons further than a foot apart(like on serenity)? Dudes today suffer to clip those bolts with a cheater stick (I saw some people use those)! Did they seriously not have any removed that were closer?
I guess bolt ladders were also an art.
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:06am PT
Ropes for solos with approaches more than a couple miles:

I've got a pair of Accelerators that suck to carry. How can a lazy guy schlepp 2 ropes, gear, beer, and enough spare underwear and toilet paper for a 2-3 pitch tower? Anybody using a piece of string for their second?

Is this the future?
The future.
The future.
Credit: giegs
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:10am PT
Try a pair of these, Vitaliy!

Dr. F.

Ice climber
SoCal
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:17am PT
Bolts were so hard to put in back then, ~15 minutes per bolt of hard ass hammering

that you would stretch as far as possible between bolts so you would have to put less in
It's as simple as that

noobs used to practice aid on Serenity Crack, so you can't use it as a comparison
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:19am PT
Dr. F for the win.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:19am PT
Vitaliy,

You're thinking of it wrong. All those scars on Serenity aren't done by one person and aren't indicative of anyone's individual reach. Certainly, on Serenity, you could lie on the slab and maybe even stand on top of the actual pin (we used to do that) to reach as far as possible. Other people would nail from their third steps and still others from their fourth step. Eventually someone would place a pin, and start a scar, in between existing scars and eventually you'd have scars every six inches, just like on the Shield now.

Top stepping, and even Hero stepping, is hard work and just like everything else, people don't like hard work and start nailing from the comfortable position of their third steps. It's ridiculous but people do it.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:27am PT
Top stepping, and even Hero stepping, is hard work and just like everything else, people don't like hard work and start nailing from the comfortable position of their third steps. It's ridiculous but people do it.
I've never really understood that approach to parking it low in your aiders. I always had hero loops and tried to use them whenever possible. Whether it's moving faster, placing less gear, conserving gear, or just being relatively short, I feel like I'm getting it done.
cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:35am PT
Why limit yourself to just a flimsy fabric ladder (the aiders)? With a rigid aluminum ladder you could drill 20 - 40 feet above your last solid placement.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 10:37am PT
Thank you Dr. F and Mark. Very helpful answers. Those guys must of worn real stiff boots for standing high in the aiders for so long.
Is there a book to read about evolution of dirty aid and what is accepted in today's world of aid on international stage?
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:37am PT
For me it was all about customizing my fifi length to my height and leg length. Once I had that dialed being stable in the 2nd step is super easy, and allows me to reach the spaciest bolt ladders I've encountered (prow included).

Like chris mac said in once of his aid articles, "no fooling around...get up in those aiders fast!". practice this mantra while leading and you'll get faster super quick.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:38am PT
Ron also has some ballast above his belt buckle that keeps him in balance.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:39am PT
Jeremy, yeah, on a good day... I'm starting to shrink already, I used to be 5'2.75" but now I'm really 5'1.875" at best!

I can relate! I was 5'5" but now it's about 1/2" shorter -- and shrinking. I learned early that I had to get into the highest steps possible in my aid slings (See how old school I am? None of this aiders stuff.) Unlike you, Mark, my arms are short, though, so I use an extension arm, consisting of an old-style Chouinard Cliffhanger in an old-style Yosemite Hammer to make particularly reachy clips.

Incidentally, Robbins (who was not particularly tall himself) was quite proud of the bolt ladders he put in on Tis-sa-ack and The Prow, and bragged about them in his write-ups of their first ascents. Also, on The Prow, there were occasional marginal aid placements between a few of the bolts.

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 10:42am PT
Like chris mac said in once of his aid articles, "no fooling around...get up in those aiders fast!". practice this mantra while leading and you'll get faster super quick.

+1
efficiency helps a lot. I saw a lot of improvement in the speed 1st to 2nd wall. On my first wall I did not see how it was possible at all to do more than 4 pitches of aid per day lol. Walls are interesting in a way.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:44am PT
Keep that wall urge under control Vitaliy....you seem destined for the mountains.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:48am PT
maybe he just need beta for routes like the Harvard on Mt Hunington..??
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:48am PT
V,

Have you ever heard of "Tee'ing" off?

Ron O. has a clean climbing video floating around that shows this technique in action.

I suspect there is a video on youtube.

If you cross one foot in front of the other in your top step, it stabilizes the stance.

It doesn't work for overhanging, as far as I know, but it really does help on vertical to less than vertical.

Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:48am PT
That aid sh#t will kill ya...Jim knows.

;-)
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Oct 26, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Yes I wondered that as well. Last year on South Seas the bolt ladders seriously worked me. I was aghast at how much actually! had totally forgotten about the total body strength required to top step on a 95 degree wall.

I found this year that clipping my chest harness to my harness helped me top step easier plus from climbing a bit this summer had regained some of the core strength specific to climbing.

We joked that you pretty much had to climb full time just to be fit enough to climb occasionally!

Still - remarkable on the first ascents the work required to drill!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Keep that wall urge under control Vitaliy....you seem destined for the mountains.

It would be nice to combine mountains, ability to free climb harder terrain (than i can now), and wall skills. Than I can finally complete that Latok climb! ;)

Have you ever heard of "Tee'ing" off?

no
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