Dr. F.
Ice climber
SoCal
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Oct 26, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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Aid climbing is ALL ABOUT SPEED
It is so easy to get bogged down and waste huge time fiddling around
You got to stay focused and keep moving, you got to get the job done
it's hard work
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 26, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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You're the man...that puppy (Latok) needs some closure!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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for now im jk about Latok of course...I am sure it will be done by someone before I get enough skills/balls to go there.
How hard does one need to climb to give it a realistic attempt? That ridge is beautiful.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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The skills must be there but TENACITY is the word....oh, and throw in a little luck.
Who knows, it might still be there for you....it has been 34 years- who would've thunk.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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Talk about speed, I heard those two rocked Wet Denim yesterday!
I was told The Reticent has extremely reachy ladders. Brother A said he could barely reach 'em at all, and he's no shorty. Gerby had a technique, I suppose.
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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. Why limit yourself to just a flimsy fabric ladder (the aiders)? With a rigid aluminum ladder you could drill 20 - 40 feet above your last solid placement
Falling Backwards 80 feet onto a daisy would suck...LOL
Vitally I was totally being serious.
There is this move ya do where ya step high way up in your top step - and ya sort of leverage with your fifi or a quickdraw and ya pop way up.. bad ass but it is so scary cause it it hard to reverse and if ya fall ....ouch!
Free Climbing for me was very natural - learning to "climb" in your aiders is hard
People who say or think it is easy are crazy..LOL
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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It could all be explained by the use of balance placements. These are intermediate placements, only able to hold a few pounds, so you can pull yourself in one direction or the other, or to pull you into the wall. Tiny copperheads (hooks too) are excellent for this. Yanking the head when cleaning will often destroy the small flake that was used, making it all a mystery to a later party.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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had to bump Latok thread since it is mentioned. But seriously, how hard would the rock ratings feel? Would one have to lead at least solid 5.11/wi5 before thinking of going there?
this move ya do where ya step high way up in your top step - and ya sort of leverage with your fifi or a quickdraw and ya pop way up done that a few times. Hard to do if terrain is even slightly overhanging.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Yup… Gerberding, Middendorf, etc.
But I’m not buying any of this 15 or 30 minutes to place a bolt or a rivet on a ladder. No way, especially if placing rivets of any sort. Should be maybe 5 minutes per rivet, 10 minutes max if you are lazy and slow and are placing longer 1/4” bolts. If you are quick, a machine-head rivet might take about 2 or 3 minutes to place. High-speed steel drill bits have been around forever; it’s not exactly new technology.
Mark, go check out the 4th pitch ladder on Cataclysmic Megasheer on the S. Face of HD. ; )
Another reason why the scars are so close together on Serenity is that once a placement became so scarred and ‘boxed-out’, it became more difficult to use. So, climbers resorted to using a much thinner pin in a new placement, which of course, suffered the same fate as the older placements. With time, the crack was basically turned into a line of square holes.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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thinking back here. To a seam i did up on the pinncale at eagle lake.
How does it fell VM? Each placement was SHIYTE , and NO CONFIDENCE was had as you attempt to step up on a rurp or a knife blade driven about an inch or less in and tied off. No bounce test, as what your standing on is NO GOOD either. Talus awaits below. You may find yourself uttering a small short prayer to whomever may be listening. thats how it can feel...;-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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It's not so much the difficulty of individual moves Vitaliy. We were all on the cutting edge of climbing for that era. You need to be able to summon up something near your A game each and every day. You need to be able to stay alert and focused even when desperately tired or dealing with atrocious weather and conditions. We had to make 85 single anchor raps in bad weather, while tired and with no food....and, not have one of them fail.
The more time you spend in the mountains, the more obstacles you overcome, the more ready you will be for such a climb.
It's not about the parts; rock and ice climbing ability, experience, endurance, ability to suffer, ambition, tenacity, strategic planning, focus....it's about the sum of the parts, and, most importantly, your PARTNERS.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 26, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Ron...it was a compliment, you always amaze me!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Thank you for the post, Jim. Climbs like that is what climbing is about. You guys succeeded to get the best experience out of that route, that's for sure. Not a happy end, but a true experience. Something you are proud to give your best and survive you know? Awesome posts on those other threads.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 26, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Well I guess I need to use emoticons that wink.
A year ago (and more) I was packin' around a bit much.
Look, you do the geezer crack climber thing and I'll do the wall/remote/drill thing. Kay?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 26, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Yeah...let's divide and conquer!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 26, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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hyper-psyche
and homemade buscuits.
vitality,
you gotta stand on the shoulders
of your's own vitality,
which is upon substances
such as wayward dreams
and anti-understandings.
vertical is merely
the step-master of infinity.
you already got everywhere tamed,
so walk bravely up your fabric ladder
and poke god in the eye.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Yesterday I measured at 14.5% body fat ya geezer!
Wow Ron, getting those teeth removed can make that much difference? I gotta find me a dentist who can do that.....
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Dr. F.
Ice climber
SoCal
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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5 minute 1/4" bolts??? using a hammer
That, I have never seen
Was RR using High-speed steel drill bits?
We aren't talking about rivets.
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Jumpingfish
Social climber
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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Good read...I almost want to climb something.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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The following were placed with a rawl drill and chisel tip bit.
1/4" x 1" button head - 4:37 sec
5/16ths x 1/2" embedded length machine head rivet - <2min
Who in the hell was taking 10, 20 or even 30 min per bolt?
Oh and just try drilling a off angle ladder, Ie...right hander drilling up and left....
See how far the spacing is then....
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