Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
for now im jk about Latok of course...I am sure it will be done by someone before I get enough skills/balls to go there.
How hard does one need to climb to give it a realistic attempt? That ridge is beautiful.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
The skills must be there but TENACITY is the word....oh, and throw in a little luck.
Who knows, it might still be there for you....it has been 34 years- who would've thunk.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
Talk about speed, I heard those two rocked Wet Denim yesterday!


I was told The Reticent has extremely reachy ladders. Brother A said he could barely reach 'em at all, and he's no shorty. Gerby had a technique, I suppose.


cliffhanger

Trad climber
California
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
It could all be explained by the use of balance placements. These are intermediate placements, only able to hold a few pounds, so you can pull yourself in one direction or the other, or to pull you into the wall. Tiny copperheads (hooks too) are excellent for this. Yanking the head when cleaning will often destroy the small flake that was used, making it all a mystery to a later party.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
had to bump Latok thread since it is mentioned. But seriously, how hard would the rock ratings feel? Would one have to lead at least solid 5.11/wi5 before thinking of going there?

this move ya do where ya step high way up in your top step - and ya sort of leverage with your fifi or a quickdraw and ya pop way up
done that a few times. Hard to do if terrain is even slightly overhanging.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
Yup… Gerberding, Middendorf, etc.

But I’m not buying any of this 15 or 30 minutes to place a bolt or a rivet on a ladder. No way, especially if placing rivets of any sort. Should be maybe 5 minutes per rivet, 10 minutes max if you are lazy and slow and are placing longer 1/4” bolts. If you are quick, a machine-head rivet might take about 2 or 3 minutes to place. High-speed steel drill bits have been around forever; it’s not exactly new technology.

Mark, go check out the 4th pitch ladder on Cataclysmic Megasheer on the S. Face of HD. ; )

Another reason why the scars are so close together on Serenity is that once a placement became so scarred and ‘boxed-out’, it became more difficult to use. So, climbers resorted to using a much thinner pin in a new placement, which of course, suffered the same fate as the older placements. With time, the crack was basically turned into a line of square holes.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
thinking back here. To a seam i did up on the pinncale at eagle lake.

How does it fell VM? Each placement was SHIYTE , and NO CONFIDENCE was had as you attempt to step up on a rurp or a knife blade driven about an inch or less in and tied off. No bounce test, as what your standing on is NO GOOD either. Talus awaits below. You may find yourself uttering a small short prayer to whomever may be listening. thats how it can feel...;-)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
It's not so much the difficulty of individual moves Vitaliy. We were all on the cutting edge of climbing for that era. You need to be able to summon up something near your A game each and every day. You need to be able to stay alert and focused even when desperately tired or dealing with atrocious weather and conditions. We had to make 85 single anchor raps in bad weather, while tired and with no food....and, not have one of them fail.
The more time you spend in the mountains, the more obstacles you overcome, the more ready you will be for such a climb.
It's not about the parts; rock and ice climbing ability, experience, endurance, ability to suffer, ambition, tenacity, strategic planning, focus....it's about the sum of the parts, and, most importantly, your PARTNERS.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Ron...it was a compliment, you always amaze me!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Thank you for the post, Jim. Climbs like that is what climbing is about. You guys succeeded to get the best experience out of that route, that's for sure. Not a happy end, but a true experience. Something you are proud to give your best and survive you know? Awesome posts on those other threads.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Well I guess I need to use emoticons that wink.

A year ago (and more) I was packin' around a bit much.

Look, you do the geezer crack climber thing and I'll do the wall/remote/drill thing. Kay?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
Yeah...let's divide and conquer!
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
hyper-psyche
and homemade buscuits.

vitality,
you gotta stand on the shoulders
of your's own vitality,
which is upon substances
such as wayward dreams
and anti-understandings.

vertical is merely
the step-master of infinity.
you already got everywhere tamed,
so walk bravely up your fabric ladder
and poke god in the eye.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
Yesterday I measured at 14.5% body fat ya geezer!

Wow Ron, getting those teeth removed can make that much difference? I gotta find me a dentist who can do that.....
Dr. F.

Ice climber
SoCal
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
5 minute 1/4" bolts??? using a hammer

That, I have never seen
Was RR using High-speed steel drill bits?

We aren't talking about rivets.
Jumpingfish

Social climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
Good read...I almost want to climb something.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
The following were placed with a rawl drill and chisel tip bit.

1/4" x 1" button head - 4:37 sec

5/16ths x 1/2" embedded length machine head rivet - <2min

Who in the hell was taking 10, 20 or even 30 min per bolt?


Oh and just try drilling a off angle ladder, Ie...right hander drilling up and left....

See how far the spacing is then....
Dr. F.

Ice climber
SoCal
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
I quoted the time as being ~15 minutes, not 20 or thirty.

What would the time be if you were using the old crappy drill bits that RR used?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Mucci,

Takes me between 4-8 seconds...


YMMV SUCKA!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
1/4" x 1" button head - 4:37 sec

5/16ths x 1/2" embedded length machine head rivet - <2min

Dude! Mucci! This thread is supposed to be for noobs to ask questions! You know how many questions I have for you after reading that? !

Let's start from 'what the hell is a button head?!' Is that those cheap little things you put a rivet on?

machine head rivet

don't even know where to start here...
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