Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 162 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
Thank you for the post, Jim. Climbs like that is what climbing is about. You guys succeeded to get the best experience out of that route, that's for sure. Not a happy end, but a true experience. Something you are proud to give your best and survive you know? Awesome posts on those other threads.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
Well I guess I need to use emoticons that wink.

A year ago (and more) I was packin' around a bit much.

Look, you do the geezer crack climber thing and I'll do the wall/remote/drill thing. Kay?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
Yeah...let's divide and conquer!
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 26, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
hyper-psyche
and homemade buscuits.

vitality,
you gotta stand on the shoulders
of your's own vitality,
which is upon substances
such as wayward dreams
and anti-understandings.

vertical is merely
the step-master of infinity.
you already got everywhere tamed,
so walk bravely up your fabric ladder
and poke god in the eye.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
Yesterday I measured at 14.5% body fat ya geezer!

Wow Ron, getting those teeth removed can make that much difference? I gotta find me a dentist who can do that.....
Jumpingfish

Social climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
Good read...I almost want to climb something.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
The following were placed with a rawl drill and chisel tip bit.

1/4" x 1" button head - 4:37 sec

5/16ths x 1/2" embedded length machine head rivet - <2min

Who in the hell was taking 10, 20 or even 30 min per bolt?


Oh and just try drilling a off angle ladder, Ie...right hander drilling up and left....

See how far the spacing is then....
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
1/4" x 1" button head - 4:37 sec

5/16ths x 1/2" embedded length machine head rivet - <2min

Dude! Mucci! This thread is supposed to be for noobs to ask questions! You know how many questions I have for you after reading that? !

Let's start from 'what the hell is a button head?!' Is that those cheap little things you put a rivet on?

machine head rivet

don't even know where to start here...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
http://www.fishproducts.com/pics/rivethanger.jpeg

is that a rivet on a buttonhead? : /
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
I've met robbins and yes he's a shorty but must have been f*#k'n tall when he placed those 1/2ass bolt ladder's on the t-sac. the prow is a short little bad ass route.
get on it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
button heads are a type of bolt (not a rivet) with a rounded unfeatured head

Yes. So you put a rivet on a button head, correct? (that was my question)
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
“5 minute 1/4" bolts??? using a hammer

That, I have never seen”

I’ve placed 1/4” x 1 1/2” buttonheads (not rivets…) while drilling on lead from a stance in Tuolumne in about 2.5 minutes. Not such a big deal if you’ve got your drilling system down and aren’t swinging a tack hammer. Being a little gripped helps too. But that’s not aid climbing…

Not sure what kind of bits Robbins was using. Anyone know?

From another post in this thread:

“It still baffles me how someone could stand in that position for 20 to 30 minutes while they drilled a bolt.”


Power drills suck.
Gene

climber
Oct 26, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
On the Prow, RR had a secret weapon - Glen Denny - which explains the distance between bolts.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
Hey crunch the teeth weren't THAT fat.
Was it the bone graft?

I have sometimes used a quickie on lead and then re-drilled it and sunk a good one with a top rope, but, for example, those ladders on Prodigal are all "lead" spacing.
With good technique ample spacing is easy enough, or you can go with twin aiders and fifi hooks and pulling against your own pushing and the smug assurance that you are "traditional".

I know which is more efficient for me.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
those guys simply knew how to get into their top-steps and SUFFER!

1+
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
I'm 5'9" and had no problems with the reach on the bolts on the Prow with second steps. WTF?

The only exception was a head that blew on P5. I had to make a stiff draw to reach past the gummed up head location to the next bolt.

Sack up man.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Moof you coming out to Beacon tomorrow?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 06:41pm PT

Sack up man.

Is that directed at me? Would love to hear it in real life so I could knock some of your teeth out.
Did I imply I was afraid of a bolt ladder? My post is to find out how do FAists keep it so well spaced, since some (like me) do not find it that easy to clip the bolts without a huge reach (I would not be able to hammer sh#t while reaching like that). Not scared, curious.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
Credit: j-tree
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
^^^^^That's what I thought!
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