Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 141 - 160 of total 196 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 10:46am PT
how does the follower clean a "tension traverse" For example pitch 3 of the Nose. But not when its a pendulum and the leader just runs it out till the rope is straight up and down, because then it would not be a problem for example Pitch 6south central on the column.


Please try to include pictures !!!!!!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
http://vimeo.com/4388859 lower out video
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 30, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
wow thats a very good video grippa, thanks alot !!!!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Any thoughts about using a 'Silent Partner' for soloing walls? A lot of people use grigris. What are advantages?

What set up do majority of people who solo walls use?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#248484

As with all aid climbing, make sure to wear pads.

Safety first.

JA
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 28, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
I have a silent partner that I have used doing "practice" aiding but haven't used it on a wall yet. It scares the sh#t out of me everytime, but so far it's always caught me.


Different question....

What's the story behind the OLD rivet ladder on the south side of the Columbia boulder in camp 4. It would be fun practice if the things weren't old as sh#t and the first one wasn't hammered flat....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
hmmm small KB abut an inch in,, "looks good"!!!
hmmm small KB abut an inch in,, "looks good"!!!
Credit: Ron Anderson

in this shot, ive done an offwidth to reaching blind around the corner to tap a knife balde that bottoms out about an inch in. I tie it off and contemplate the UGLY landing in the talus 15 or more feet below if it pops.



surprised to still be clinging to the stone after the swing around ont...
surprised to still be clinging to the stone after the swing around onto the route form the offwidth..

rack: rurps -many, many small knife blades with many tie off loops, a hook and 1 --1/2 inch angle with tie off loop. cant bring enough TIE OFF loops
Credit: Ron Anderson

it held,, as did the rest under MY body weight - after the third attempt to nail this seam on an overhung pinnacle- it was H-E-I-N-O-U-S...Hook move towards the top and a 1/2" angle tied off in the middle other wise all rurps and tied off bottoming small blades. one goes,, they all woulda..



my contribution to one pitch aid nightmares. "Hairline" fa 78 A4-X.. Eagle lake Cliffs on "off the wall" pinnacle- west face.

inspired by none other than the REAL Batso...



Credit: Ron Anderson


during the first attempts, i lowered off the angle after specific directions to those who tagged along to watch the carnage and belay.. " Once you start lowering me do it steadily with out any stopping or stuttering- THATS IMPERATIVE!" Never have repeated that - doubt ill ever wanna...


None of my belay slaves could weight the first placements without popping them. Ya had to be light,, and DELICATE.. I didnt even breath to hard as to shake them loose. On high ON Elcap, it would be a brilliant crux pitch to some climb, however, at just under 80 feet from the large jagged talus there,, its just feckin stupid.. Maybe it was that "lumbo-gold" ..?


THANK YOU YVONNE CHOUINARD for that most stellar gear!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
if you have to drill you better do a lot of hooking and maybe do a few moves on drilled holes with a bat hook before you put in a rivet? People do not do bolt ladders any longer?

Drilled holes on a ladder are BS, nobody on a FA is in that much of a hurry.

If your gonna drill a ladder, you make every attempt to hook naturally btw rivets or bolts, if that does not work out, it's all steel all the way.

Manufacturing difficulty on blank stone is chump.

Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
What Mucci said n sh#t.

But...

I use wooden wedges shimmed into place with a knifeblade but that's just how I roll bitches.

TESTIFY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
Jeremy,, Ill bet hairline hasnt been repeated- you could bag the coveted "second" while i entertained yur MOM at the base...;-)
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!

Nice one Ron!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


;-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
thank ya,, thank ya vury much!;-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
nobody on a FA is in that much of a hurry.

But our Vitya is headed to the great ranges where time is money, and life.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
But the great ranges are so far...and I need a beer...and I gotta pee...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
What's the story behind the OLD rivet ladder on the south side of the Columbia boulder in camp 4.

As it must now be more than 50 years old, it might be considered a historical/archaeological relic, and so not to be touched.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
i believe thats where Royal instructed some Aid years back no?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
AID CLIMBING BUMP!


photo not found
Missing photo ID#273610



photo not found
Missing photo ID#261238


GET SOME!

JA

McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Is that the belay?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
That's part of it...I brought the drill but no bit or wrench. Super sketch and way ghetto.

Turned A1 into A4 as the original Beckey bolts were gone...

Good times!

JA
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
Would you prefer it melted in your mouth?
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