Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Messages 141 - 160 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
if you have to drill you better do a lot of hooking and maybe do a few moves on drilled holes with a bat hook before you put in a rivet? People do not do bolt ladders any longer?

Drilled holes on a ladder are BS, nobody on a FA is in that much of a hurry.

If your gonna drill a ladder, you make every attempt to hook naturally btw rivets or bolts, if that does not work out, it's all steel all the way.

Manufacturing difficulty on blank stone is chump.

Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
What Mucci said n sh#t.

But...

I use wooden wedges shimmed into place with a knifeblade but that's just how I roll bitches.

TESTIFY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
Jeremy,, Ill bet hairline hasnt been repeated- you could bag the coveted "second" while i entertained yur MOM at the base...;-)
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!

Nice one Ron!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


;-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
thank ya,, thank ya vury much!;-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
nobody on a FA is in that much of a hurry.

But our Vitya is headed to the great ranges where time is money, and life.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
But the great ranges are so far...and I need a beer...and I gotta pee...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
What's the story behind the OLD rivet ladder on the south side of the Columbia boulder in camp 4.

As it must now be more than 50 years old, it might be considered a historical/archaeological relic, and so not to be touched.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...
Nov 28, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
i believe thats where Royal instructed some Aid years back no?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
AID CLIMBING BUMP!


photo not found
Missing photo ID#273610



photo not found
Missing photo ID#261238


GET SOME!

JA

McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Is that the belay?
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
That's part of it...I brought the drill but no bit or wrench. Super sketch and way ghetto.

Turned A1 into A4 as the original Beckey bolts were gone...

Good times!

JA
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
Would you prefer it melted in your mouth?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
As fare as Silent Partner vs. Gri-gri for soloing goes, well, one was designed and made for soloing, the maker of the other emphatically states that you should not use it for soloing.

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
The Silent Partner is versatile too, in the sense you can claim you have a silent partner. Ah yes, I picked up a podner just this year.

(you know, in business)

Sorry dude, slot's been taken, already have all the help I need.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
Hey! Don't you be slanderin' Royal about his drilling skills. I'm 6' 2" and I've done his proud ladders on the Prow and Tis-sa-ack. I had to step it up and stretch. He bragged about the Tis-sa-ack effort in the famous article.






So.... Glen Denny was 6' 10"?....or, was it Wayne Merry?
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
OK. sorry. I'm not done yet!

I climbed Lurking Fear with my wife Margy and she got the bolt ladder on the 2nd/3rd pitch? She is 5' 0". We set her up with a 2' cheater stick and she made that work. So....what's the problem?



Yes I'm late to the thread.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

expando nailing...on a hideous overhang..

afterward,, it was all beers,buds,, and,,,,,,,Jeremys MOM..;-)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 01:57am PT
As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).

Which tasks would grigri help on the wall with aside from belaying? rapelling to clean can be done on it i guess?
man, i wish there were more videos out there...
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:15am PT
I wonder when they are going to make an Aiding shoe with front points
like on crampons and climbing Ninja hooks for the hands. I would think it would save time over standing in aiders on hook placements.

:)
Messages 141 - 160 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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