Lovers Leap East Wall obscure....

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Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Oct 2, 2012 - 09:55am PT
Hey Salamanizer, I've only done the second pitch of April Fools and it's awesome (Traversed into to it from Anesthesia). How is the first pitche(s)? And more importantly, how is the last pitch? I've heard it's runout, but nothing too gnarly. Any beta?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 2, 2012 - 10:33am PT
speaking of obscure,, how many finishes have been done on craven image?
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
On my topo there are three alternative starts that are typically used to approach the splitter on April Fools. The left climbs a shallow corner and runs it up pretty high before the first bit of pro as you have to make some 5.7 friction moves into the obvious corner. From there it's pretty easy and steep following the corner and steep section you would have climbed through when traversing in from Anesthisa.

The middle option is funky mostly easy face climbing with thin and somewhat fiddly pro. It has a few 5.8 sections where you'll want to climb gingerly but nothing too out there. It seems to be the most popular option dispite carrying its mild R rating.

The Right option climbs easy dikes and cracks (5.6) to the far right of the big April Fools ledge where you have to make a hand traverse until you can crawl onto the ledge or belly flop and crawl along the ledge until you can stand up. Did it once and that was enough. Kind of a PITA.

The third pitch goes up and slightly (very slightly) left up a dike filled friction slab kinda thing to a low angle broken area. From there it's a pitch or two up any number of ways to the top. None are much of a bargin over the others.

Ron, I'd imagine Craven Image has hardly ever been repeated the same way twice, never really veering too far one way or the other. I've been all over that face up there several dozen times and have found the best climbing to be following up the left side of the scoop in the corner and finishing the route on what is called Easier than it Looks in the Falcon guide. That puts it in at around 4 pitches to the top.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 4, 2012 - 10:10am PT
Sal, you seem to have very intimate knowledge of all climbing areas and routes in the hwy. 50 corridor. I mean, your spot on with your descriptions. Have you considered putting together a guidebook to the corridor? There are a few out there but with a lot of inaccuracies, ommisions and downright misleading information.I believe an easy to use and understand guide with highly accurate information could sell well.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
I second that Rick,,Sal seems to be a younger generation, yet has an older soul- Ive seen it in his routes hes done and climbed. The guy is a hardman imo, and has a great knowledge of areas throughout the corridor of 50 and 88.. Cmon Sal,, what say Ye?
RattyJ

Trad climber
Pine Grove
Oct 4, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
I've been trying to get him to publish some sort of guide for the 50 corridor and Hwy 88 areas for years. His routes are definately some of the wildest most visionary and ballsy routes to go up around tahoe in the last 30 years, and all of them done in a pure ground up old school style.
I'd just like him to post info about eagle rock and give up some of his topos. Those routes are gnarly and I never know if I'm off route or there just isn't any protection as far as I can see. Definately this generations Jay Smith.

Come on chad, write that topo........please!!!!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
I appreciate the compliments but have ya'll any idea how much work it is to put together a quality guidebook?

Well, I guess Rick and Ron do but still, I just don't have the time. I've thought about doing a comprehensive detailed guide to the Leap but I'm missing alot of info on the Central Wall as I've only been up there a few times on various routes because of those bird closures.

What I could really use are some high resolution shots of the various walls so I can draw my topos to scale easier. My point and shoot camera just doesn't cut it. Anyone got real crisp and clear photos of all the walls at the Leap? That I guess is my major hurtle, besides time.

Rob, what topos for Eagle Rock do you want? I don't mind giving those out. It's not like people are going to be flooding up there what with the 4wd road, long hike and runnout routes.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Sal, I might just be willing and have time to assist you on the publication side of the equation. I'm winding down my construction career and am looking for something productive to do with my time. As far as pictures, i could loan you a quality camera or take some pictures myself.You really do have the best grasp on the minutia of the area of anyone out there and it would be a shame if you didn't share this info. Of course, being a confirmed capitalist, i mean share in the profitable sense.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Cmon now Sal,, if ol party-ass nare do wells of the past such as Rick or I could manage to stumble around enough to do a guide ,, SURELY a youthfull hardman like your self can do it- ESPECIALLY in this age of computer-wizardry
and the like. And its ONLY two corridors - cant be more than eight, nine hunert routes TOPS! ;-) And central wall - no biggie, there are rescources right here in taco land to help. The falcon and Carville guides left much to be desired and have led to colossal cornfusions for many a bewildered cragger.

Time for someone in the KNOW to shed da light,, and that someone is apparently YOU..All part of the initiation into truly crazy hardman status. Its the last level, a milestone upon which many a fortune was never had! But i digress, sssooo WHO better than You? every time a thread pops up on the area you chime in with a blow by blow, including lichen counts.;-)
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
You know Chad, I have to agree. Through actually climbing so much of whats out there, having a real appreciation of the history and the current development, plus your attention to detail makes you perhaps the most informed local out there. I dare say Petch has insight on some Leap stuff that few have, but your postings are always detailed and acurate (at least from what I know).
Just try to remember to put enough bolts in for the rest of us:)
Has Jester had a second?
You have probably seen the thin crack that trends up and right from the anesthesia roof and peters out 50 or 60 feet up into some interesting face. I have long thought it would be a nice route but a bit of a squeeze/variation of Anesthesia. It would almost meet or perhaps would run into Jester
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 8, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
hhhmmm let it be known that there is NO NEED for "squeeze jobs" at the LEAP. Just throwin it out there. No bolts up blank dike faces just because they are there stuff is required there. That isnt the nature of the leap and its test piece routes. Besides most of that stuff was soloed years ago by local hardboyz. Wait till they invent the dike pincher XS then those can all go clean...
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Ron
Do you have an alarm that sends an electric shock through that lazyboy and into your ass to notify you every time I post?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 8, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
no not really why do you think that was aimed only for you? did i say hey AIDEN? or SWELLGUY? I will note though that you did mention yet another squeeze job style thing- did you run out of rock at the Loaf?
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 09:30am PT
Perhaps? though anything that I put up at the Loaf last year was certainly not a squeeze job. I would suggest the term "modern day classic" to be more accurate:)

I was also suggesting that I would NOT be putting up the line at the Leap as I thought it would be a squeeze job. I could certainly point out a number of squeeze jobs put up "ground up" that should not exist.
It's all about the quality of the route and the context of the location. How it went up is nice but of relatively minor significance. BTW it is not easy to hand drill from sketchy feet and put in a 2 1/2 inch X 3/8th SS bolt, and to place anything less in this day and age is ridiculous. Chad I note, put up a route a couple years ago on sugarbum hand drilled 1/4 bolts and then rapped in pulled em all and placed 3/8 SS. Its a fine route but holy crap what a lot of time and money to be able to do it on lead. Petch has a whole rig for pulling up a drill sans battery which he carries in some pack on his person. Very impressive too, but can or has the time and inclination to make such a specialized rig? Not me i'm afraid. I just want to put up a quality route. The ethics are a fun diversion from the hum drum of the daily grind but nothing more.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:36am PT
True, however, lets just mention a climb like Craven Image, that has been led no less than about fifty different finishes. Litterally ALL those dikes up there have been climbed past and run outs galore. Now, for anyone to BOLT a "route" in that area would be superfluous and would be bolting over formerly climbed ground.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Hey Aidan,

THe crack that trends up and right from anesthesia is The Last Laugh, another Smith/Harrison job. Pretty fun. Decent gear but take some small stuff (I remember being glad to have a #1 peenut.) The crack ends on that ledge atop the april fool's glory crack. Goes up the face from there.

Murky rating. I think Carville had it as '.10' somewhere else had it at .10a. I thought there were a couple moves of .10c on it. Predates Anesthesia, so A is the actual squeeze job I think, sharing the start of the second pitch before crossing over to the left and up.

Unless we're talking about different cracks?
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Wow Ron we agree on something!

Dave,
I think it is a different crack. If you climb the A 2nd Pitch as as you do the crux traverse, at the end instead of going straight up the corner you see a little iddy biddy seam running across and up the face until it blanks out and then a few face moves. As you come down the A raps you can put a small cam up above where the crack peters out and do it on TR. Nice little romp and prob 11b/c as I recall. Only prob 50 feet or so
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Im sure we could agree on many things Aiden... Jus maybe not 50 feet of space being worthy of a route at the leap..;-)
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
i once saw this fella,
he was precariously and perhaps dangerously perched;
on some overhanging bald granite arete.

tis lad was lie backing, said arete,
the arete was 6 inches, maybe in its proudest dimension.

the dude clung.
his feet smearing on overhanging slab
his fingers groping god's breast, well i mean the mountain,
and then he stopped.

he just stopped.

it was as though he was contemplating mass?
so if the mass of imagination is greater than
the mass of this damn planet, they we'll simply float high..


im like drop-jawed thinkin..."uh, wow. how
the fvck? do something dude. is he gonna plumet
to the dirt? shite maybe i outta sing. or....

and while i sat there dumb as i am,
he placed a tiny cam... like 00 style,
in this pissy god-cvnt seam that was no amorous,

and then he casually continued on
up the 12d desperately thin granite situation...

...all in a day's dream for my friend aiden.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
Yeah well i clung in precariousness desperately seeking susan, but the biotch didnt show...
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