Lovers Leap East Wall obscure....

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 78 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
yea ron,
i concur.
when we invest our zest in biology,
we are so often left depleted and disappointed.

so might we invest in geology,
and climb
right-on past excalibur,

though we are still depleted but
at the end of the day the grit in our
teeth be-betters the beer;
the rocks 'neath our nails scribe a better letter in spiritual glass;
the sunburn upon our highest skin
glows and heats our way forward into unknown eternities.

im sorry to hear about your susan, ron.
i hope that you have walked the paths proudly again,
beyond susan.

i suspect that many of us have our own susans,
so what? we still live beligerant,
and stomps silly against gravity's will.

im.
don't hang no apostrophe 'tween pronouns and passive verbs,

we, i and you and others live just right agressively into
existence's domain.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Any of you guys climbed Eeyore's Fantasy?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
yes.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
maybe.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
i mighta been three.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
eyores ecstasy was one friggin BRUTAL alpine climb once upon a winter. One of the more proud ascents of my existence really. I think it was about then i began to reconsider my pursuits of ice.. then there was that east wall EPIC of glazed dikes smooth slick and cold...
I once ran UP a flake that was heading DOWN on hogsback doing an fa...And ended up right in the same place afterwards!! Loved that place ...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
Does anyone else remember the time the nearly whole of the east wall central was shrouded in ICE! Looked like a scene out of COLO!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
We cant of course neglect remembering of the "red smile"... Circa 78/9..




a brief TR: We went to do the E wall route -12/23/79. A day that the wall gets a glimpse of sun for maybe thirty seconds. The dikes were ALL solid crystal clear ice out to the last 1/2" of their exposure. We got to the traverse which being under that steeper headwall the dikes were 100% ice- and several attempts to cross it proved lunacy. Even worse the crack alternatives were brim full of this crystalline demon shyt! A few falls later trying various precarious alternatives- we were freezing like meat in the Kenmore and voted to bail.. We were going "clean" witha scant rack so i began to STACK hexes in the large crack up and left of the ist belay from the e wall. Chuck looked at me and went hmmmm- so i told him about the climbing magazine article i had recently read about guys doin this shyt ! He voted i go first lol! Worked like a charm it did- and i stacked another anchor to get us to the ground. The large cracks were the ONLY ones with any room for placements.


oddly enough we were the ONLY people there that day..
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:27am PT
any pics of eeyore's fantasy/ecstasy as an ice climb? that sounds awesome. Any of you know a crag around tahoe where I can go dry tooling in winter?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:30am PT
echo summit has lots of that - in the canyon by the old howitzer platform and slabs above 50 right in that area- just between echo summit and the bottom of the hill. Usually has lots of thin stuff.


Ill have to check with my buddy for any pics.. I took none as i was to frozen to operate such delicate crap at that particular time. Not to mention being quite SKETCHED the entire grueling dismally cold process. The wind was literally piercing and going right up my sphincter freezing me from the inside out...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 11, 2012 - 03:26am PT
Anesthesia's a squeeze job.

I suppose I could pull together a topo for the HWY 50/88 area. I would just have to omit some of the sport climbing areas like Luther as I've only been there once and am not willing to explore it further. That place is Crap. Also I know of several areas where divulging it's location might wind up in a disgruntled encounter with the indigenous populous. Either way, it would be a couple of years and I'd need a lot of help from alot of different people. I still haven't decided what format for topos I like best either. The supertopo format is a good start, but it always just seemed kinda stick figurish (is that a word?) to me.


Vitaliy, ice climbing in California isn't worth it. Unless you don't mind spending all winter in a cast and all spring trying to "spring back".
Trust me, I did a long stint with ice climbing. Even the best stuff around is pretty much sh#t. It does have it's short windows on certain years though. Best to have a fast car and flexible schedule.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 11, 2012 - 11:14am PT
Chad,
Just the hwy. 50 corridor from Eagle rock to Echo Summit would be one complete guidebook with the amount of routes out there now.My interest in it would be solely in the publication and distribution end of it which i have the time and means to do now. Email me through ST-Let's talk a little about it.
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
I have been told quite often that the Leap needs a guide book and I should write one. But the best thing to happen to the Leap was the omission of routes in the Supertopo. To be able to climb April Fools and routes to the right on a busy weekend and feel you have the Leap to yourself is sweet.
Last time I went to Sin City was on Memorial Day weekend, where the Leap was over run and we had the whole place to ourself.
There is plenty of info out on the web and old guide books for the motivated.
Less info is some times better imo.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
one way to look at it is with the previous documentations, 2/3 of the routes at the leap for instance are already done- just a transfer of lines to new photos with any corrections needed. That could be accomplished fairly easily- so only the newer additions would take the time really. And you have an additional resource we never did BITD, and that is RIGHT HERE!

While i definitely see both sides of the coin regarding guides, and having gone through the thought processes of "should i or shouldnt i" - i came to the conclusion i should for many reasons. But things were also quite different back then regarding climbing and the numbers of climbers. Hard choices- to think on..



i actually wait with baited breath for the NEW WOODFORDS guide to be!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
There is plenty of info out on the web and old guide books for the motivated.
Less info is some times better imo.


I suspect a new, comprehensive guide book largely wouldn't change the routes people flock to that much. Well, until there's a vid of Honnold sprinting up April Fools.

Route location and FA info. so people aren't doing latter day "FAs" would also be useful. But I'm not a Leap Obscurist having fun with the process of ferreting out overgrown lines and dreaming of retro bolts either, so I probably don't have much of a say either way.

i actually wait with baited breath for the NEW WOODFORDS guide to be!

Me too! There's so much up there. Plus that old guide was written by a real weirdo ;).

Oh yeah, what's up with that retaining wall deal under the Big Bertha Boulder and c*#k blocking the best looking crack line? Had it been there the whole time (i.e. I'm too lazy to look at my topo right now)?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
One of the very reasons i did my guide^^^^... PRESERVATION...Documentation of the history of areas was second.



edit: I HEAR YA on that ol woodfords guide guy!!!!!!!! musta been smokin cheap shyt!


edit2: About the retaining wall, at one time when they were digging the highway up 88, that was a blasting powder storage cave.. Someone broke into it so they put up the small fence. Bertha is actually cal trans property due to her proximity to the road. No biggie just use whats there..;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
Speaking of Woodfords, I added a few glueons
to OOTD to aid my Fall workouts. Brings it down to a 5.9.

Feel free to use em!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
Heh. Cool history, Ron, thanks. I thought maybe somebody had been living up there and the digs didn't look too great with a big ol' crack sluicing rain indoors!

Too bad it's still there, that crack looks the most enticing. Oh well, there's plenty of full grown cracks in that area to ease my pain.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Oct 11, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
Cool...thanks.

You're welcome!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Yer gittin cute with my werds der, Footy. That's okay ;).

I got to belay one of my buds on his redpoint of the OOTD recently. That thing is always a struggle on lead it seems. I'm just glad I (just barely) managed the onsight and can forever rest on my laurels like a true coward while gladly accepting the toprope ;)! So much more fun on toprope, that line! Maybe that has to do with about a bajillion less pansy ass pieces of gear hanging off my harness....
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