Lovers Leap East Wall obscure....

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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2012 - 11:26am PT
early on the second traverse pitch of East Wall, one can look up and see a series of big flakes heading up and a little right for 100+ feet. Is this a route? Horn Blower, Flying Circus and Pigs on the Wing don't seem to fit these features? where do the upper pitches of these routes go?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 11:32am PT
pigs and horn blower go up at the right side of the traverse nearly above the first pitch of the e wall route. and angle up/left. the last two , or one long pitch being shared.


you may be thinking of a route called ham sandwich 5.9 R that goes up through flakes above the e wall traverse.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
Pigs heads up the Large R facing corner that is immed above E Wall 1st pitch and then pulls out as that corner continues arcing off right?

Ham Sandwich looks like it's a bit further Left along the traverse and in the larger R facing blocky corners sytem that also diagonals up and right

Maybe Horn Blower? or what about Flying Circus? It might be that the series of flakes cuts across more than one route and ties into Pigs?

detailed photos of the East wall would help....
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 23, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
Ham Sandwich runs smack into that short little OW with a pin in the center of the traverse of East Wall and goes strait up from there at like 5.5ish. It's bolts are missing which I've found. Havnen't replaced them yet, not sure if I will. Looks like a route better served by fading away.

Horn Blower climbs that horrible bushy crack to the face where East Wall comes around the corner and starts the traverse pitch. HB's second pitch follows that alluring short low angle hand/fist splitter everyone climbs for a bit on the East Wall traverse, then continues up trending right just a bit following a series of flakes and crusty dikes. You'll run smack into the "Horn" on Horn Blower. A very obvious horn shaped horn jetting out above a small bulge, it's rather unique. Anyway, climb past the horn and belay in a shallow corner with bomber gear. I think it takes something like .5"-1". Next pitch is a short low angle walk off.

Pigs on the Wing takes the left facing corner system directly above the first pitch ledge of East Wall. Climb the short corner to a good ledge just below a scooping slab. Climb the slab trending right to the edge of the abyss. Now eak around the corner looking for a good piece of psychological pro. Fiddle with said psycho pro (my #1 peanut may still be there. Belayer didn't want to lean around the corner to clean it:/ ) and make a one move wonder to good holds. Run it out a bit to good gear and a small roof, then follow weird flaring flakes up a series of corners to much easier ground. The first, second and last pitch are pretty benign. Third pitch has one hard move where you'll surely die then manageable runnouts on easy ground.


The corner systems you refer to I'd think are surely Horn Blower, or some near by variation there of.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
at one time,, pigs and horn shared the same last pitches. bitd,, of crusty ol traddaddies..
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 23, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
The last pitch is more or less the same. You could wander around pretty much anywhere up there.



Heres a quick sketch of about where the routes go.


Credit: Salamanizer
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
tru dat- as you mention many ways to the top from there and none more stellar than the other.. so to speak.. Perhaps that is why the old descrips just have the two routes coming together after the first pitch or so.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
Thanks Chad. Very helpful. BTW did you mean to say Right facing corner above E Wall for Pigs? You said Left?
the photo is in flat lighting which is a bit hard to see. It's interesting; I think some of the routes in that area go fairly straight while the natural features arc up and across to the right. Consequently the obvious way to follow the natural features can cross routes. For example the best way to do Fireworks is to follow the natural R facing corner above East wall until the roof is easily breached which I think combines part of Pigs and part of Fireworks.
The flakes I was looking at looks like Horn Blower and then crosses Pigs and keeps working up and right and probably runs into Fireworks. I think it is sometimes more enjoyable to simply follow the most aesthetic line regardless of the route it crosses or joins. I shall head up there and see where I end up
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
I used to watch several guys of the local crew bitd solo ALL OVER the east wall,, up,, down,, sideways..its all been done in the up to 10+/11 range. those dikes wander all over the place.. very unique place really.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Sep 23, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
Sal, there is at least 3 or 4 moves palming the corner for rounded liebacks and scumming with the feet before your onto easier ground above the death zone on pigs. The origonal knifeblade i put in embedded no more than an eighth inch was tied off for physchological support only. I remember the upper part of the pitch having good liebacking in the 5.8 range a small roof then finishing with a short section of unprotected 5.9 friction. Between the lines is another good obscure route in that area. There's also the deviate if anyone can figure out its true course.Aiden the second pitch of Pigs does go above east wall first belay, awkward 5.9 but reasonable pro.Oh yeah, Rednecks is another obscure quality route on east wall. It takes the tiny corners to the left of Haystack 2nd pitch and finishes underclinging left towards East Corner, lots of good tips liebacks and face.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 23, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
rick
i was just yesterday eyeing your
rednecks pitch with high ambitions.

from the ledge i didn't see any decent
gear in the first 60'.
all of those corners close to nothing,
no fixed pins, shitty nuts maybe

so i wussed out.
i come back and rap in and maybe
scrub some of the moss outta the crack
to see if any gear options open up.

nice looking route though.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 23, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
hey chad tell us
about your ground-up
new route over
by april fools..

that's obscure,
but it sounds like it could become
a destination route.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Sep 23, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
norwegian, yes it felt rather sketchy with the thin wires of the time, i believe the hardest section was the top of the sketchy section moving right (if i remember correctly) from one corner into another. Was always a bit licheny.Expect the climbing to be a little undergraded compared to the modern scale.You might want to bring a knifeblade and hammer.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 02:36am PT
Aidan, yes a right facing corner, sorry. I do that more often than I'd like to admit.
Climbing Fireworks like you describe actually combines Pigs on the Wing, Flying Circus and Fireworks but skips out on the majority of Fireworks itself. If you don't go out there and clip that old manky bolt, you didn't climb Fireworks ;) Acutally IMO, Fireworks is really kind of a so so squeeze job that would probably not last a week these days. It's just a variation to the otherwise stellar cross thatchwork of routes that meander all over East Wall. Just something to do on a sunny day, not ground breaking, not terribly runnout or visionary but fun to visit at least once.


Rick, yep!!! That's about perfectly described as I remember Piggies too. That route was always like the "test piece" for me and I almost idolised it for a long time. I was actually so intimidated by it that I put off even attempting it for years until when I finally tried it, I blew up the thing without a hitch. Actually, I did stop for a bit at the crux to fiddle with pro and contemplate the moves and the consequences should you blow it. If you blow those few moves, you will fly over a roof, bounce down about 60 to 80ft and factor two onto your belayer. You have to be 100%. A fine route indeed built to test ones confidence in the finer points of climbing.

The Deviate is a lost route. I've been in contact several times with Higgins over the route and am left with more questions than answers. Higgins believes that the route A Few Dollars More is the original Deviate route. Having climbed both routes (Deviate & A FDM) I have found too many discrepancies in the descriptions given by Higgins to confirm this to be true. One of the major factors is that A FDM is graded as 5.9 or maybe 5.10 but in fact is solid 5.10+. Not out of the question. Anyone having climbed 5.9+ put up in the 60's knows that can mean anything up to about 5.11ish. Given the gear options at the time however(1969) A FDM would have been 5.10+ X. Still, not out of the question reguarding Higgins, but questionable. On the other hand, I've climbed the Deviate to the Psychedelic tree ledge (not as described in the book) and found the upper pitches to be even worse. There were 60 to 80ft runnouts on gigantic expanding flakes I would never dare placing gear behind, no options for pitons or nuts any sane person would take and a 5.10+ mantle followed by 5.10 dirty friction over a 40ft runnout to the ledge. Not cool, not worth doing and no way he was stupid enough to keep going up that way.
That's in tie with the other scariest route I've done at the leap which is the "rumored" Ed Drummond direct finish to A Few Dollars More. That was a stellar route though quite puckering to say the least. 5.11 mantle protected by a LA pin hand placed in a mud seam to some crispy climbing in a quite runnout 5.11 corner. Pull the roof (easy) to a ledge about 30ft above pro. Meander around and exit to the right pulling a hard 5.11 unprotected mantle to the top. 5.11 X for sure. Either way, the few bolts that were placed on A FDM on the supposed second accent would bring this classic route down to a severe R rating which would put in in reach of those with more sense than I.

Rednecks has some pretty shitty pro. About 25ft up you get some bomber stuff, but you don't want to skidd before that.



Here's some pics of the upper pitch of Deviate and A Few Dollars More as discribed in the Falcon Guide.


Pulling the runnout 5.10 mantle on the Deviate just before Psychedelic...
Pulling the runnout 5.10 mantle on the Deviate just before Psychedelic Tree ledge.
Credit: Salamanizer


Looking up at the 5.11 mantle and roof system of the Drummond direct f...
Looking up at the 5.11 mantle and roof system of the Drummond direct finish to A Few Dollars More.
Credit: Salamanizer

Close up of mantle with shitty hand placed piton in mud at my feet.
Close up of mantle with shitty hand placed piton in mud at my feet.
Credit: Salamanizer


Weege, the new route I did is just left of April Fools and follows a thin natural seam to the ledge. I put it up ground up placing the single bolt at the crux with a hand drill on a good stance. Take a hefty selection of RP's and a single rack to about 1". Start just below April Fools second (splitter) pitch and instead work you way left up a steepening ramp to the corner. Follow the corner through low to mid 5.10 climbing to the bolt. Just past the bolt is the crux (well protected 5.10d/.11a) then the climbing gets progressively easier with easier to place and bigger pro as you move up. You reach a good stance then continue strait up to a steep (well protected) overhanging undercling and some big moves to the top anchors. This is a completely independent route from April Fools and The Last Laugh and shares nothing with either. Have at it.







dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Oct 2, 2012 - 03:02am PT
Sal-

What is the "usual" first pitch of April Fool's? It is not obvious how to get to the "splitter" second pitch. We went up a faint seam, traversed left below a bulge, then up to a flake system in a bowl then up a short steep crack to the belay.

It was good, but I was wondereing if there is another variation around the buttres to the right of where we climbed.

Would like to check out your route, and just want to get my bearings straight on the first pitch!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 03:23am PT
April Fools has several approach pitches. The left is my favorite, the center is the origional I believe and the right is a less dignified (belly crawl) approach.

My new route (The Jester) is shown in pink just left of April Fools.


Credit: Salamanizer
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Oct 2, 2012 - 03:28am PT
thanks Sal for the info and the new route!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Oct 2, 2012 - 09:58am PT
try the end of the line.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 10:49am PT
End of the Line is an awesome route. A little tricky footwork and gear at the beginning but supprised more people don't get on it. Easier said than Done is another one thats good quality and never sees traffic. It looks like certain death, but really isn't half as bad as it looks. Way better than that dike hike Labor of Love that seems so popular.

Showtime on the other hand...
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 2, 2012 - 11:02am PT
People like routes with lots of bolts. I've never done Labor because I never have two ropes at the East Wall.

I wandered up and right from the top of the second pitch of East Wall several years ago to jump a 8 climber line on bushy ledge. Cruised up through those right facing overlaps at the top until I could step up and over. Felt about 5.5 with gear everywhere. I remember thinking after looking at the guidebook it was the third pitch of Hornblower.
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