Lovers Leap East Wall obscure....

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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2012 - 08:26am PT
early on the second traverse pitch of East Wall, one can look up and see a series of big flakes heading up and a little right for 100+ feet. Is this a route? Horn Blower, Flying Circus and Pigs on the Wing don't seem to fit these features? where do the upper pitches of these routes go?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 08:32am PT
pigs and horn blower go up at the right side of the traverse nearly above the first pitch of the e wall route. and angle up/left. the last two , or one long pitch being shared.


you may be thinking of a route called ham sandwich 5.9 R that goes up through flakes above the e wall traverse.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2012 - 09:31am PT
Pigs heads up the Large R facing corner that is immed above E Wall 1st pitch and then pulls out as that corner continues arcing off right?

Ham Sandwich looks like it's a bit further Left along the traverse and in the larger R facing blocky corners sytem that also diagonals up and right

Maybe Horn Blower? or what about Flying Circus? It might be that the series of flakes cuts across more than one route and ties into Pigs?

detailed photos of the East wall would help....
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 23, 2012 - 09:34am PT
Ham Sandwich runs smack into that short little OW with a pin in the center of the traverse of East Wall and goes strait up from there at like 5.5ish. It's bolts are missing which I've found. Havnen't replaced them yet, not sure if I will. Looks like a route better served by fading away.

Horn Blower climbs that horrible bushy crack to the face where East Wall comes around the corner and starts the traverse pitch. HB's second pitch follows that alluring short low angle hand/fist splitter everyone climbs for a bit on the East Wall traverse, then continues up trending right just a bit following a series of flakes and crusty dikes. You'll run smack into the "Horn" on Horn Blower. A very obvious horn shaped horn jetting out above a small bulge, it's rather unique. Anyway, climb past the horn and belay in a shallow corner with bomber gear. I think it takes something like .5"-1". Next pitch is a short low angle walk off.

Pigs on the Wing takes the left facing corner system directly above the first pitch ledge of East Wall. Climb the short corner to a good ledge just below a scooping slab. Climb the slab trending right to the edge of the abyss. Now eak around the corner looking for a good piece of psychological pro. Fiddle with said psycho pro (my #1 peanut may still be there. Belayer didn't want to lean around the corner to clean it:/ ) and make a one move wonder to good holds. Run it out a bit to good gear and a small roof, then follow weird flaring flakes up a series of corners to much easier ground. The first, second and last pitch are pretty benign. Third pitch has one hard move where you'll surely die then manageable runnouts on easy ground.


The corner systems you refer to I'd think are surely Horn Blower, or some near by variation there of.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 09:42am PT
at one time,, pigs and horn shared the same last pitches. bitd,, of crusty ol traddaddies..
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 23, 2012 - 09:44am PT
The last pitch is more or less the same. You could wander around pretty much anywhere up there.



Heres a quick sketch of about where the routes go.


Credit: Salamanizer
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 09:52am PT
tru dat- as you mention many ways to the top from there and none more stellar than the other.. so to speak.. Perhaps that is why the old descrips just have the two routes coming together after the first pitch or so.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
Thanks Chad. Very helpful. BTW did you mean to say Right facing corner above E Wall for Pigs? You said Left?
the photo is in flat lighting which is a bit hard to see. It's interesting; I think some of the routes in that area go fairly straight while the natural features arc up and across to the right. Consequently the obvious way to follow the natural features can cross routes. For example the best way to do Fireworks is to follow the natural R facing corner above East wall until the roof is easily breached which I think combines part of Pigs and part of Fireworks.
The flakes I was looking at looks like Horn Blower and then crosses Pigs and keeps working up and right and probably runs into Fireworks. I think it is sometimes more enjoyable to simply follow the most aesthetic line regardless of the route it crosses or joins. I shall head up there and see where I end up
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Sep 23, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
I used to watch several guys of the local crew bitd solo ALL OVER the east wall,, up,, down,, sideways..its all been done in the up to 10+/11 range. those dikes wander all over the place.. very unique place really.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Sep 23, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Sal, there is at least 3 or 4 moves palming the corner for rounded liebacks and scumming with the feet before your onto easier ground above the death zone on pigs. The origonal knifeblade i put in embedded no more than an eighth inch was tied off for physchological support only. I remember the upper part of the pitch having good liebacking in the 5.8 range a small roof then finishing with a short section of unprotected 5.9 friction. Between the lines is another good obscure route in that area. There's also the deviate if anyone can figure out its true course.Aiden the second pitch of Pigs does go above east wall first belay, awkward 5.9 but reasonable pro.Oh yeah, Rednecks is another obscure quality route on east wall. It takes the tiny corners to the left of Haystack 2nd pitch and finishes underclinging left towards East Corner, lots of good tips liebacks and face.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 23, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
rick
i was just yesterday eyeing your
rednecks pitch with high ambitions.

from the ledge i didn't see any decent
gear in the first 60'.
all of those corners close to nothing,
no fixed pins, shitty nuts maybe

so i wussed out.
i come back and rap in and maybe
scrub some of the moss outta the crack
to see if any gear options open up.

nice looking route though.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 23, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
hey chad tell us
about your ground-up
new route over
by april fools..

that's obscure,
but it sounds like it could become
a destination route.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Sep 23, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
norwegian, yes it felt rather sketchy with the thin wires of the time, i believe the hardest section was the top of the sketchy section moving right (if i remember correctly) from one corner into another. Was always a bit licheny.Expect the climbing to be a little undergraded compared to the modern scale.You might want to bring a knifeblade and hammer.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 1, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
Aidan, yes a right facing corner, sorry. I do that more often than I'd like to admit.
Climbing Fireworks like you describe actually combines Pigs on the Wing, Flying Circus and Fireworks but skips out on the majority of Fireworks itself. If you don't go out there and clip that old manky bolt, you didn't climb Fireworks ;) Acutally IMO, Fireworks is really kind of a so so squeeze job that would probably not last a week these days. It's just a variation to the otherwise stellar cross thatchwork of routes that meander all over East Wall. Just something to do on a sunny day, not ground breaking, not terribly runnout or visionary but fun to visit at least once.


Rick, yep!!! That's about perfectly described as I remember Piggies too. That route was always like the "test piece" for me and I almost idolised it for a long time. I was actually so intimidated by it that I put off even attempting it for years until when I finally tried it, I blew up the thing without a hitch. Actually, I did stop for a bit at the crux to fiddle with pro and contemplate the moves and the consequences should you blow it. If you blow those few moves, you will fly over a roof, bounce down about 60 to 80ft and factor two onto your belayer. You have to be 100%. A fine route indeed built to test ones confidence in the finer points of climbing.

The Deviate is a lost route. I've been in contact several times with Higgins over the route and am left with more questions than answers. Higgins believes that the route A Few Dollars More is the original Deviate route. Having climbed both routes (Deviate & A FDM) I have found too many discrepancies in the descriptions given by Higgins to confirm this to be true. One of the major factors is that A FDM is graded as 5.9 or maybe 5.10 but in fact is solid 5.10+. Not out of the question. Anyone having climbed 5.9+ put up in the 60's knows that can mean anything up to about 5.11ish. Given the gear options at the time however(1969) A FDM would have been 5.10+ X. Still, not out of the question reguarding Higgins, but questionable. On the other hand, I've climbed the Deviate to the Psychedelic tree ledge (not as described in the book) and found the upper pitches to be even worse. There were 60 to 80ft runnouts on gigantic expanding flakes I would never dare placing gear behind, no options for pitons or nuts any sane person would take and a 5.10+ mantle followed by 5.10 dirty friction over a 40ft runnout to the ledge. Not cool, not worth doing and no way he was stupid enough to keep going up that way.
That's in tie with the other scariest route I've done at the leap which is the "rumored" Ed Drummond direct finish to A Few Dollars More. That was a stellar route though quite puckering to say the least. 5.11 mantle protected by a LA pin hand placed in a mud seam to some crispy climbing in a quite runnout 5.11 corner. Pull the roof (easy) to a ledge about 30ft above pro. Meander around and exit to the right pulling a hard 5.11 unprotected mantle to the top. 5.11 X for sure. Either way, the few bolts that were placed on A FDM on the supposed second accent would bring this classic route down to a severe R rating which would put in in reach of those with more sense than I.

Rednecks has some pretty shitty pro. About 25ft up you get some bomber stuff, but you don't want to skidd before that.



Here's some pics of the upper pitch of Deviate and A Few Dollars More as discribed in the Falcon Guide.


Pulling the runnout 5.10 mantle on the Deviate just before Psychedelic...
Pulling the runnout 5.10 mantle on the Deviate just before Psychedelic Tree ledge.
Credit: Salamanizer


Looking up at the 5.11 mantle and roof system of the Drummond direct f...
Looking up at the 5.11 mantle and roof system of the Drummond direct finish to A Few Dollars More.
Credit: Salamanizer

Close up of mantle with shitty hand placed piton in mud at my feet.
Close up of mantle with shitty hand placed piton in mud at my feet.
Credit: Salamanizer


Weege, the new route I did is just left of April Fools and follows a thin natural seam to the ledge. I put it up ground up placing the single bolt at the crux with a hand drill on a good stance. Take a hefty selection of RP's and a single rack to about 1". Start just below April Fools second (splitter) pitch and instead work you way left up a steepening ramp to the corner. Follow the corner through low to mid 5.10 climbing to the bolt. Just past the bolt is the crux (well protected 5.10d/.11a) then the climbing gets progressively easier with easier to place and bigger pro as you move up. You reach a good stance then continue strait up to a steep (well protected) overhanging undercling and some big moves to the top anchors. This is a completely independent route from April Fools and The Last Laugh and shares nothing with either. Have at it.







dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Oct 2, 2012 - 12:02am PT
Sal-

What is the "usual" first pitch of April Fool's? It is not obvious how to get to the "splitter" second pitch. We went up a faint seam, traversed left below a bulge, then up to a flake system in a bowl then up a short steep crack to the belay.

It was good, but I was wondereing if there is another variation around the buttres to the right of where we climbed.

Would like to check out your route, and just want to get my bearings straight on the first pitch!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 12:23am PT
April Fools has several approach pitches. The left is my favorite, the center is the origional I believe and the right is a less dignified (belly crawl) approach.

My new route (The Jester) is shown in pink just left of April Fools.


Credit: Salamanizer
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Oct 2, 2012 - 12:28am PT
thanks Sal for the info and the new route!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Oct 2, 2012 - 06:58am PT
try the end of the line.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 07:49am PT
End of the Line is an awesome route. A little tricky footwork and gear at the beginning but supprised more people don't get on it. Easier said than Done is another one thats good quality and never sees traffic. It looks like certain death, but really isn't half as bad as it looks. Way better than that dike hike Labor of Love that seems so popular.

Showtime on the other hand...
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 2, 2012 - 08:02am PT
People like routes with lots of bolts. I've never done Labor because I never have two ropes at the East Wall.

I wandered up and right from the top of the second pitch of East Wall several years ago to jump a 8 climber line on bushy ledge. Cruised up through those right facing overlaps at the top until I could step up and over. Felt about 5.5 with gear everywhere. I remember thinking after looking at the guidebook it was the third pitch of Hornblower.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Oct 2, 2012 - 09:55am PT
Hey Salamanizer, I've only done the second pitch of April Fools and it's awesome (Traversed into to it from Anesthesia). How is the first pitche(s)? And more importantly, how is the last pitch? I've heard it's runout, but nothing too gnarly. Any beta?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 2, 2012 - 10:33am PT
speaking of obscure,, how many finishes have been done on craven image?
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 2, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
On my topo there are three alternative starts that are typically used to approach the splitter on April Fools. The left climbs a shallow corner and runs it up pretty high before the first bit of pro as you have to make some 5.7 friction moves into the obvious corner. From there it's pretty easy and steep following the corner and steep section you would have climbed through when traversing in from Anesthisa.

The middle option is funky mostly easy face climbing with thin and somewhat fiddly pro. It has a few 5.8 sections where you'll want to climb gingerly but nothing too out there. It seems to be the most popular option dispite carrying its mild R rating.

The Right option climbs easy dikes and cracks (5.6) to the far right of the big April Fools ledge where you have to make a hand traverse until you can crawl onto the ledge or belly flop and crawl along the ledge until you can stand up. Did it once and that was enough. Kind of a PITA.

The third pitch goes up and slightly (very slightly) left up a dike filled friction slab kinda thing to a low angle broken area. From there it's a pitch or two up any number of ways to the top. None are much of a bargin over the others.

Ron, I'd imagine Craven Image has hardly ever been repeated the same way twice, never really veering too far one way or the other. I've been all over that face up there several dozen times and have found the best climbing to be following up the left side of the scoop in the corner and finishing the route on what is called Easier than it Looks in the Falcon guide. That puts it in at around 4 pitches to the top.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 4, 2012 - 10:10am PT
Sal, you seem to have very intimate knowledge of all climbing areas and routes in the hwy. 50 corridor. I mean, your spot on with your descriptions. Have you considered putting together a guidebook to the corridor? There are a few out there but with a lot of inaccuracies, ommisions and downright misleading information.I believe an easy to use and understand guide with highly accurate information could sell well.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
I second that Rick,,Sal seems to be a younger generation, yet has an older soul- Ive seen it in his routes hes done and climbed. The guy is a hardman imo, and has a great knowledge of areas throughout the corridor of 50 and 88.. Cmon Sal,, what say Ye?
RattyJ

Trad climber
Pine Grove
Oct 4, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
I've been trying to get him to publish some sort of guide for the 50 corridor and Hwy 88 areas for years. His routes are definately some of the wildest most visionary and ballsy routes to go up around tahoe in the last 30 years, and all of them done in a pure ground up old school style.
I'd just like him to post info about eagle rock and give up some of his topos. Those routes are gnarly and I never know if I'm off route or there just isn't any protection as far as I can see. Definately this generations Jay Smith.

Come on chad, write that topo........please!!!!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 6, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
I appreciate the compliments but have ya'll any idea how much work it is to put together a quality guidebook?

Well, I guess Rick and Ron do but still, I just don't have the time. I've thought about doing a comprehensive detailed guide to the Leap but I'm missing alot of info on the Central Wall as I've only been up there a few times on various routes because of those bird closures.

What I could really use are some high resolution shots of the various walls so I can draw my topos to scale easier. My point and shoot camera just doesn't cut it. Anyone got real crisp and clear photos of all the walls at the Leap? That I guess is my major hurtle, besides time.

Rob, what topos for Eagle Rock do you want? I don't mind giving those out. It's not like people are going to be flooding up there what with the 4wd road, long hike and runnout routes.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Sal, I might just be willing and have time to assist you on the publication side of the equation. I'm winding down my construction career and am looking for something productive to do with my time. As far as pictures, i could loan you a quality camera or take some pictures myself.You really do have the best grasp on the minutia of the area of anyone out there and it would be a shame if you didn't share this info. Of course, being a confirmed capitalist, i mean share in the profitable sense.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 7, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Cmon now Sal,, if ol party-ass nare do wells of the past such as Rick or I could manage to stumble around enough to do a guide ,, SURELY a youthfull hardman like your self can do it- ESPECIALLY in this age of computer-wizardry
and the like. And its ONLY two corridors - cant be more than eight, nine hunert routes TOPS! ;-) And central wall - no biggie, there are rescources right here in taco land to help. The falcon and Carville guides left much to be desired and have led to colossal cornfusions for many a bewildered cragger.

Time for someone in the KNOW to shed da light,, and that someone is apparently YOU..All part of the initiation into truly crazy hardman status. Its the last level, a milestone upon which many a fortune was never had! But i digress, sssooo WHO better than You? every time a thread pops up on the area you chime in with a blow by blow, including lichen counts.;-)
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
You know Chad, I have to agree. Through actually climbing so much of whats out there, having a real appreciation of the history and the current development, plus your attention to detail makes you perhaps the most informed local out there. I dare say Petch has insight on some Leap stuff that few have, but your postings are always detailed and acurate (at least from what I know).
Just try to remember to put enough bolts in for the rest of us:)
Has Jester had a second?
You have probably seen the thin crack that trends up and right from the anesthesia roof and peters out 50 or 60 feet up into some interesting face. I have long thought it would be a nice route but a bit of a squeeze/variation of Anesthesia. It would almost meet or perhaps would run into Jester
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 8, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
hhhmmm let it be known that there is NO NEED for "squeeze jobs" at the LEAP. Just throwin it out there. No bolts up blank dike faces just because they are there stuff is required there. That isnt the nature of the leap and its test piece routes. Besides most of that stuff was soloed years ago by local hardboyz. Wait till they invent the dike pincher XS then those can all go clean...
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Ron
Do you have an alarm that sends an electric shock through that lazyboy and into your ass to notify you every time I post?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 8, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
no not really why do you think that was aimed only for you? did i say hey AIDEN? or SWELLGUY? I will note though that you did mention yet another squeeze job style thing- did you run out of rock at the Loaf?
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 09:30am PT
Perhaps? though anything that I put up at the Loaf last year was certainly not a squeeze job. I would suggest the term "modern day classic" to be more accurate:)

I was also suggesting that I would NOT be putting up the line at the Leap as I thought it would be a squeeze job. I could certainly point out a number of squeeze jobs put up "ground up" that should not exist.
It's all about the quality of the route and the context of the location. How it went up is nice but of relatively minor significance. BTW it is not easy to hand drill from sketchy feet and put in a 2 1/2 inch X 3/8th SS bolt, and to place anything less in this day and age is ridiculous. Chad I note, put up a route a couple years ago on sugarbum hand drilled 1/4 bolts and then rapped in pulled em all and placed 3/8 SS. Its a fine route but holy crap what a lot of time and money to be able to do it on lead. Petch has a whole rig for pulling up a drill sans battery which he carries in some pack on his person. Very impressive too, but can or has the time and inclination to make such a specialized rig? Not me i'm afraid. I just want to put up a quality route. The ethics are a fun diversion from the hum drum of the daily grind but nothing more.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:36am PT
True, however, lets just mention a climb like Craven Image, that has been led no less than about fifty different finishes. Litterally ALL those dikes up there have been climbed past and run outs galore. Now, for anyone to BOLT a "route" in that area would be superfluous and would be bolting over formerly climbed ground.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 10, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Hey Aidan,

THe crack that trends up and right from anesthesia is The Last Laugh, another Smith/Harrison job. Pretty fun. Decent gear but take some small stuff (I remember being glad to have a #1 peenut.) The crack ends on that ledge atop the april fool's glory crack. Goes up the face from there.

Murky rating. I think Carville had it as '.10' somewhere else had it at .10a. I thought there were a couple moves of .10c on it. Predates Anesthesia, so A is the actual squeeze job I think, sharing the start of the second pitch before crossing over to the left and up.

Unless we're talking about different cracks?
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Wow Ron we agree on something!

Dave,
I think it is a different crack. If you climb the A 2nd Pitch as as you do the crux traverse, at the end instead of going straight up the corner you see a little iddy biddy seam running across and up the face until it blanks out and then a few face moves. As you come down the A raps you can put a small cam up above where the crack peters out and do it on TR. Nice little romp and prob 11b/c as I recall. Only prob 50 feet or so
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Im sure we could agree on many things Aiden... Jus maybe not 50 feet of space being worthy of a route at the leap..;-)
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
i once saw this fella,
he was precariously and perhaps dangerously perched;
on some overhanging bald granite arete.

tis lad was lie backing, said arete,
the arete was 6 inches, maybe in its proudest dimension.

the dude clung.
his feet smearing on overhanging slab
his fingers groping god's breast, well i mean the mountain,
and then he stopped.

he just stopped.

it was as though he was contemplating mass?
so if the mass of imagination is greater than
the mass of this damn planet, they we'll simply float high..


im like drop-jawed thinkin..."uh, wow. how
the fvck? do something dude. is he gonna plumet
to the dirt? shite maybe i outta sing. or....

and while i sat there dumb as i am,
he placed a tiny cam... like 00 style,
in this pissy god-cvnt seam that was no amorous,

and then he casually continued on
up the 12d desperately thin granite situation...

...all in a day's dream for my friend aiden.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
Yeah well i clung in precariousness desperately seeking susan, but the biotch didnt show...
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
yea ron,
i concur.
when we invest our zest in biology,
we are so often left depleted and disappointed.

so might we invest in geology,
and climb
right-on past excalibur,

though we are still depleted but
at the end of the day the grit in our
teeth be-betters the beer;
the rocks 'neath our nails scribe a better letter in spiritual glass;
the sunburn upon our highest skin
glows and heats our way forward into unknown eternities.

im sorry to hear about your susan, ron.
i hope that you have walked the paths proudly again,
beyond susan.

i suspect that many of us have our own susans,
so what? we still live beligerant,
and stomps silly against gravity's will.

im.
don't hang no apostrophe 'tween pronouns and passive verbs,

we, i and you and others live just right agressively into
existence's domain.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Any of you guys climbed Eeyore's Fantasy?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
yes.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
maybe.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
i mighta been three.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
eyores ecstasy was one friggin BRUTAL alpine climb once upon a winter. One of the more proud ascents of my existence really. I think it was about then i began to reconsider my pursuits of ice.. then there was that east wall EPIC of glazed dikes smooth slick and cold...
I once ran UP a flake that was heading DOWN on hogsback doing an fa...And ended up right in the same place afterwards!! Loved that place ...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
Does anyone else remember the time the nearly whole of the east wall central was shrouded in ICE! Looked like a scene out of COLO!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
We cant of course neglect remembering of the "red smile"... Circa 78/9..




a brief TR: We went to do the E wall route -12/23/79. A day that the wall gets a glimpse of sun for maybe thirty seconds. The dikes were ALL solid crystal clear ice out to the last 1/2" of their exposure. We got to the traverse which being under that steeper headwall the dikes were 100% ice- and several attempts to cross it proved lunacy. Even worse the crack alternatives were brim full of this crystalline demon shyt! A few falls later trying various precarious alternatives- we were freezing like meat in the Kenmore and voted to bail.. We were going "clean" witha scant rack so i began to STACK hexes in the large crack up and left of the ist belay from the e wall. Chuck looked at me and went hmmmm- so i told him about the climbing magazine article i had recently read about guys doin this shyt ! He voted i go first lol! Worked like a charm it did- and i stacked another anchor to get us to the ground. The large cracks were the ONLY ones with any room for placements.


oddly enough we were the ONLY people there that day..
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
any pics of eeyore's fantasy/ecstasy as an ice climb? that sounds awesome. Any of you know a crag around tahoe where I can go dry tooling in winter?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 10, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
echo summit has lots of that - in the canyon by the old howitzer platform and slabs above 50 right in that area- just between echo summit and the bottom of the hill. Usually has lots of thin stuff.


Ill have to check with my buddy for any pics.. I took none as i was to frozen to operate such delicate crap at that particular time. Not to mention being quite SKETCHED the entire grueling dismally cold process. The wind was literally piercing and going right up my sphincter freezing me from the inside out...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 11, 2012 - 12:26am PT
Anesthesia's a squeeze job.

I suppose I could pull together a topo for the HWY 50/88 area. I would just have to omit some of the sport climbing areas like Luther as I've only been there once and am not willing to explore it further. That place is Crap. Also I know of several areas where divulging it's location might wind up in a disgruntled encounter with the indigenous populous. Either way, it would be a couple of years and I'd need a lot of help from alot of different people. I still haven't decided what format for topos I like best either. The supertopo format is a good start, but it always just seemed kinda stick figurish (is that a word?) to me.


Vitaliy, ice climbing in California isn't worth it. Unless you don't mind spending all winter in a cast and all spring trying to "spring back".
Trust me, I did a long stint with ice climbing. Even the best stuff around is pretty much sh#t. It does have it's short windows on certain years though. Best to have a fast car and flexible schedule.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Oct 11, 2012 - 08:14am PT
Chad,
Just the hwy. 50 corridor from Eagle rock to Echo Summit would be one complete guidebook with the amount of routes out there now.My interest in it would be solely in the publication and distribution end of it which i have the time and means to do now. Email me through ST-Let's talk a little about it.
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Oct 11, 2012 - 09:13am PT
I have been told quite often that the Leap needs a guide book and I should write one. But the best thing to happen to the Leap was the omission of routes in the Supertopo. To be able to climb April Fools and routes to the right on a busy weekend and feel you have the Leap to yourself is sweet.
Last time I went to Sin City was on Memorial Day weekend, where the Leap was over run and we had the whole place to ourself.
There is plenty of info out on the web and old guide books for the motivated.
Less info is some times better imo.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:32am PT
one way to look at it is with the previous documentations, 2/3 of the routes at the leap for instance are already done- just a transfer of lines to new photos with any corrections needed. That could be accomplished fairly easily- so only the newer additions would take the time really. And you have an additional resource we never did BITD, and that is RIGHT HERE!

While i definitely see both sides of the coin regarding guides, and having gone through the thought processes of "should i or shouldnt i" - i came to the conclusion i should for many reasons. But things were also quite different back then regarding climbing and the numbers of climbers. Hard choices- to think on..



i actually wait with baited breath for the NEW WOODFORDS guide to be!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:48am PT
There is plenty of info out on the web and old guide books for the motivated.
Less info is some times better imo.


I suspect a new, comprehensive guide book largely wouldn't change the routes people flock to that much. Well, until there's a vid of Honnold sprinting up April Fools.

Route location and FA info. so people aren't doing latter day "FAs" would also be useful. But I'm not a Leap Obscurist having fun with the process of ferreting out overgrown lines and dreaming of retro bolts either, so I probably don't have much of a say either way.

i actually wait with baited breath for the NEW WOODFORDS guide to be!

Me too! There's so much up there. Plus that old guide was written by a real weirdo ;).

Oh yeah, what's up with that retaining wall deal under the Big Bertha Boulder and c*#k blocking the best looking crack line? Had it been there the whole time (i.e. I'm too lazy to look at my topo right now)?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:51am PT
One of the very reasons i did my guide^^^^... PRESERVATION...Documentation of the history of areas was second.



edit: I HEAR YA on that ol woodfords guide guy!!!!!!!! musta been smokin cheap shyt!


edit2: About the retaining wall, at one time when they were digging the highway up 88, that was a blasting powder storage cave.. Someone broke into it so they put up the small fence. Bertha is actually cal trans property due to her proximity to the road. No biggie just use whats there..;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Speaking of Woodfords, I added a few glueons
to OOTD to aid my Fall workouts. Brings it down to a 5.9.

Feel free to use em!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:56am PT
Heh. Cool history, Ron, thanks. I thought maybe somebody had been living up there and the digs didn't look too great with a big ol' crack sluicing rain indoors!

Too bad it's still there, that crack looks the most enticing. Oh well, there's plenty of full grown cracks in that area to ease my pain.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Oct 11, 2012 - 10:57am PT
Cool...thanks.

You're welcome!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Yer gittin cute with my werds der, Footy. That's okay ;).

I got to belay one of my buds on his redpoint of the OOTD recently. That thing is always a struggle on lead it seems. I'm just glad I (just barely) managed the onsight and can forever rest on my laurels like a true coward while gladly accepting the toprope ;)! So much more fun on toprope, that line! Maybe that has to do with about a bajillion less pansy ass pieces of gear hanging off my harness....
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 11, 2012 - 11:04am PT
I tend to agree with Petch on this issue, although I've personally benefitted from looking at Salamanizer's topos and picking his brain about stuff.

98% of Leap routes are already documented in the Supertopo and the Carville. There's plenty of info out there for those interested in doing them. The only thing missing is a star rating system so that people know what it is they should be climbing. Some of the current topos are poor, but they're not unusable.

As for other rock on hwy 50, most of it is visible from the road and you can scavenge info with a little work.

If you're looking for something to climb at the Leap besides the same 8 routes everyone does, open up the Carville and pick one that sounds cool. Chances are it will deliver.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Oct 11, 2012 - 11:05am PT
hahaha, jeebs, yeah it's my local favorite!

btw, just playing around, that last post, for those who don't know better -
don't want to cause any trouble around here or thread drift. ;)


EDIT No, I haven't tried it - that King Diamond. It's all yours, Wildman!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 11:08am PT
I know, I think you are Mister OOTD himself. You tried that line to the right, King Diamond? I got afeered when I heard the gear was a little sketch but I would rather go for the lead hangdog sesh than the TR hangdog sesh when I get on it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
I thought King diamond was sssslightly sand baggery-ish...The lower crux in the crack didnt get me like the second pitch really. But it was all HARD and quite exposed there- it seems to go all the way to the highway in "the feel".. "bush league" and "pictures of me" are fairly equal bush being slightly harder - but "little miss manners" is 12 if ya ask me but then dont ask me cuz i tried it once and flailed off three times. i thnk that was the route..;=)


edit: and i never tried "glory hog" any one done it??? it made my weeman wee-er,,and my sack shrink to an innie..the "slab" under the roof up close seems very much steeper fer some reason.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Oct 12, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
pitch 1 eyeores fantasy
pitch 1 eyeores fantasy
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 12, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
uhuh,, theres that MISERABLE COLD SHYT!;-) Figures youve BTDT.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 27, 2013 - 06:22am PT
chad without your permission
i added fireworks to your pretty picture.

thank you for you exhaustive
research on the topic of eastwall obscurities.

Credit: salamanizer
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 29, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
Fireworks is a good one. That bolt needs replaced though.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 30, 2013 - 03:05am PT
sal, funny thing, that bolt.

it is scat,
like a domestic cat
happily caged in a non-zoo,
located where
you can finally get some gear

i believe that rick sumner
told me that route was put up
on the fourth of july, hence the name.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 30, 2013 - 09:37am PT
try the end of the line.


The end of the line is great, but I was pretty disappointed when it got retro-bolted.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 30, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
Was End of the Line originally done without bolts? It's still no gimmie!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 30, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
wonderful country,
out there. beyond the
skid marks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HRKRNH
Sep 30, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
EOTL had a fixed pin up high originally. That is all.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Sep 30, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
^^^^holy shit! That makes my palms sweat just thinking about it. Now it sounds more like a Crawford FA.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Oct 1, 2013 - 06:45am PT
Danos spirit water
Danos spirit water
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
I had not heard that End of the Line was retro'd. P Crawford has not said anything about that and I've talked about that route with him. Bolts are new 3/8th though. Perhaps he's referring to the second pitch that I added some years ago. It was not popular with some. I think they is open rock to take it to the top between The Line and Fireworks with very little bolting required?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HRKRNH
Oct 1, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Nope, fairly certain EOTL had a fixed pin slighlty below the crux up high, and that is awll.. The left variation start had two bolts and a fixed pin..


edit: Stewie,, NICE SHOT! "Spirit water" yah!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 7, 2013 - 08:03am PT
Stewart, where the hell is that flow? Is that upper part of 'Eeyore's Fantasy' or something? Looks increddible!!
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