Best advice how to get back stacked big Camelot ?

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Messages 61 - 66 of total 66 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
sonoran climbing gear

Trad climber
AZ
Sep 19, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Check out sonoranclimbinggear.com We have a device coming out called the cam-extractor... Never lose another cam. [photo
Credit: sonoran climbing gear
id=264079]
sonoran climbing gear

Trad climber
AZ
Sep 19, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Another picture
Credit: sonoran climbing gear
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 19, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
Repeating my comment from the other thread, the cam extractor looks good for a cam that went slightly out of reach into the crack. The pitch above the Harding Slot on Astroman sometimes has #.5 Camalots pushed deep in the initial overhang if the leader weights the rope higher.

But usually when I see a stuck cam, one or more of the cam lobes are "locked up", and just being able to pull the trigger bar is not enough to free it.

The cam extractor might also be used like a "stick clip" to place a cam high on a route with a hard start where the crack is out of reach. I can't think of an example at the moment, but I'm sure there are a few.
sonoran climbing gear

Trad climber
AZ
Sep 20, 2012 - 12:33am PT
I agree with you Clint, when the lobes are locked up it makes it pretty tough. You would be pretty surprised by the amount of cams that I have seen "rescued" by one of these devises though. Given the price of cams, it can be a handy little device have around. The cam-extractor was designed with two purposes in mind, being able to extract cams that have walked too far into a crack and to extend one's reach (as you pointed out). We are just launching the updated version of this device so your thoughts are definitely appreciated.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Sep 20, 2012 - 08:27am PT
If the cams aren't moving at all it's time to hammer on it. But before resorting to that, my technique is to keep tension on the cam by putting a sling in my mouth, then see which cams are stuck work on them with nut tool, if you can get them to move at all, you're pulling with the sling so the cam should move a little. Before doing this though, you need to retrace how the cam got to where it was and remove it the same way. You may be trying to extract it through a narrower space than where it was inserted. If you have to use force, then don't worry about damaging the trigger, it can be replaced. That's all I have to add.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 20, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
No hammer needed, but a tire iron works well to unstick the lobes.
Or a long screwdriver would be a lighter tool, though it's a little easier to generate torque with an angled handle like on the tire iron.
My partner likes to bend a screwdriver to make a cleaning tool, so that could be a nice combination for this purpose (if the bend was near the handle instead of near the blade).
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