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generationfourth
Trad climber
Arizona
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Aug 13, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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I have the Self Rescue book with the red cover (Tyson/Loomis). I find it very informative and this thread reminds me that I need to go through and practice the methods in it again. There are is a lot of sound advice that made me say "ooooh that's what I should've done!" There is good methods for "sh#t-has-hit-the-fan" situations, and an equal amount of material dedicated to minor troubles like: second can't make it up the pitch, rope stuck, etc.
I've been trying to get my partners to get involved in learning and practicing because like others have said– the knowledge is useless if you're the one injured and your partner is not up to speed. Sadly some of my partners are too proud and/or have ego issues when it comes to self-rescue...
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Aug 13, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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About 6 months ago I first read in RR's "Basic Rockcraft" that you should practice falling. Let's just say that it took several weeks before my brain decided it was willing to ponder this. But ponder it I did.
I like to laugh at myself, so this is something that provides grand opportunity. I've gone off course, snowballed, skidded, flipped and practically snapped every singe one of my limbs right off while downhill skiing, so why should climbing up (or down) be any different, from an experience perspective, that is?
It's in the things that go wrong and then are righted again that we develop skill and mastery. So, naturally, I became obsessed with knots. ;D Luckily, that lasted all of about 5, maybe 10 pages, before I decided I needed to figure out WHY all of these variations were necessary.
I have to say that it's really in all of the different stories and conversations being shared here that I've been able to learn the most, including, of course, recommended reading (and all of the different opinions that come with a person taking a stand on this or that!). So...again, my thanks.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 13, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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Holy frig! ^^ THAT ^^ is an amazing story! What a pair of idiots. Talk about being in deep way way way over your head. Were this not Yosemite Valley where rescuers are available for free with a free 911 call, they would likely be dead.
You rappel with three ropes, lose one right off the bat and end up cutting it, then carry on with only two. And you rappel down a rope with NO ascenders?! And you don't even have the know-how or ability to prusik a fixed rope?
If feel angry about this. It makes the rest of us look bad, and endangers access for the rest of us who have actually made the effort to learn the very basics of how to descend and ascend a fixed rope. Which is no small effort, but rather a lifetime of learning.
You do this sort of thing without learning it properly [they weren't even CLOSE] and you will end up with a very short lifetime.
One wonders, of course, if it was these guys:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1886785&tn=0&mr=0
He writes,
"I will be in Yosemite for a day or two in the next few weeks."
If so, dude, you owe us all a HUGE explanation and perhaps even an apology.
What were you thinking?!
Wankers.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Why bother reading a book?
Just dial 911
:-)
Thanks Werner! I'll try that. NOT!!!
The last thing I want is for someone to put their ass on the line to rescue my ass.
I sure do appreciate all that the gals and guys in SAR do. Rock on SAR folks!
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