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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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This is so so sad. I have many memories of Jeff over many years; frolicking in Tuolumne, hanging out in the gym, helping out so much with the bandaloopers, and enjoying the after show celebrations, swimming the Muir Gorge and always climbing so well. The last time I saw him was at Donner Summit. I had just come through my own hard time with bad mental chemistry and had become alienated from the community of which Jeff was such a core member. Without hesitation, Jeff and Deb came over to me with big hugs and genuine love and caring which I will always value and remember. My heart goes out to Deb and Eric and all the rest of us who have lost such a sweet friend.
Peter Mayfield
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AndyO
Social climber
Brooklyn, NY
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Schneider called me yesterday with the news... So sad... Jeff was a great person, someone who I loved running into when I come home for a visit. Such a loss. My heart goes out to Deb and the rest of his family, as well as all of you that are in Berkeley and closer to the loss than I.
I knew Jeff since I was 13 or so, through City Rock. He used to invite me to parties at his house when I was in high school, and I'd get drunk with people who were twice my age in some cases. Of course, we climbed together quite a bit, especially in Yosemite and Sonora. Jeff was always a ton of fun to be around.
He will be missed.
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mara y.
climber
CA
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I started writing a terribly long and person note, but I've shared these thoughts with Deb and I hope talking with me helped a little bit.
I loved Jeff almost from the day we met back at City Rock in 1990 and will carry him in my heart till the day I die.
He was always there for me and I tried my best to be there for him.
I hope he is finally at peace with himself and can look down and see how much he was he was loved, valued and respected for the person he was- Mara
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Amelia Rudolph
Trad climber
Kensington
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Jeff first charmed me with his easy warmth, that smile, his sparkling, slightly mishevious eyes and idiosyncratic style back in 1993. His smashing craggy good looks did not go unnoticed either. But, it was, and still is his warm spirit, underneath his sadness and his sudden exit from the world of the living that I am holding onto. His warmth, oddness, strength, smile, insights, persistance and team spirit are some of the things that made him one of my closest friends. In the summer of 2001 when he was courtin' Deb, they both joined me and Project Bandaloop in the back country as part of the team. He had to leave us at one point to do something in town, but, showed up a couple of days later having walked 21 miles in that morning to find us and he was carrying fresh croissants, morning buns and gourmet grade Petes coffee. Now thats our Jeff.
Jeff contributed to several Bandaloop performances over the last 15 years and many good times in and out of the city. I miss him very very much. May you be working the Loft in the afterworld my dear.
Amelia
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chossman
climber
lone pine, ca
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Tears do nothing to express this loss. Shipoopi and Heather would stay at my house and Jeff used to be tagging along. Pretty soon he didn't need the Schneider's to stay the night, he was always welcomed. I can still here the way he would talk - quick bursts of words followed by long drawn out sylables. He gave so much to everyone around him. Truly a loving, intelligent and witty man. I wish he could see this thread. He wouldn't have done it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I met Jeff once at the Leap on a climb which he was taking someone up... pretty easy for him. He was having a lot of fun on it, always nice to meet someone so at home climbing. He asked to pass and we said sure. I had always read about his ability and his closeness in age to me was an inspiration.
This is sorrowful news, my heart felt condolences to his family and friends.
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jim thornburg
climber
el cerrito, ca
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It was good seeing all of you last night. Some one brought up this route that Jeff did the FA of. It is such a classic. I think Amelia and Heather and Deb helped him with the FA. It's on Phobos Deimos, and it's two or three pitches depending on how you want to do it. In the photo Jeff is setting up for the crux dyno on the last move of the last pitch. I think he rated it .12c or d (and I would guess thats a bit of a sandbag)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Condolences to all who knew and loved him.
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Mike P
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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I'm here for my friend Jim Thornburg; before today I'd never been to this website. I just heard the news. Jimi, Shipoopi, Peter, Amelia, Heather C, family and friends I've not met, and most of all, Deb: my thoughts are with you.
My photos don't compare to Jimi's, but this is all I got: In December 1999 I bought a house and as part of the deal we had to have some old asbestos abated from the basement. So we called a firm that does this and some guys came out and whaled away on the framing getting it done. I made the mistake of telling Jeff and his then-girlfriend Jennifer (who was an environmental engineer) that I was having this done, and they insisted on coming over and hanging out on the sidewalk the whole day just to keep me company. The whole day. It was too loud to be in the house, so we just sat on the curb all day, following the sun, chatting, Jennifer keeping a watchful eye on the crew in the house and Jeff keeping things chill. It was a stressful period for me, there was a lot going on, this asbestos thing was feeling like it might be the straw on the camel's back... and they pretty much made it possible to get through that little episode, made it seem not so bad. I bought the burritos for lunch, but beyond that Jeff wouldn't accept any payment. Here he is, all the bags in the van, the welcome end to a hard day.
Thanks again, Jeff.
Mike Papciak
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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I only ran into Jeff a few times. Once in the early 90's in the Owen's Valley Gorge Putting up a route by the powerhouse, with a framing hammer duct taped to a cord on his harness.
The other time was earlier this year or late last year at the Stellar Brew in Mammoth Lakes, he was haulling a big trailer with what appeared to be all his belongings with a BMW or a Mercedes! What a crack-up.
Another sad loss indeed.
Bill McChesney
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X-ray girl
climber
Oakland, CA
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It warms my heart, in this sad time to see all the support we are all giving to Jeff and his family and to each other. Sometimes it takes something like this to show us how truly beautiful our little community of climbers really are. We are the brave and the fearless and we are wrought with pain and dark secrets. We love, we cry, we scream and we laugh. Reffrey, if you can hear us WE LOVE YOU!!!! Thanks folks, and keep it coming. Heather C.
PS Awesome pictures Mike P. and Jimi T.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
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I hadn't seen or talked to Jeff since last year, when I saw him and Deb at Ironworks.
I remember thinking how happy and relaxed they looked together.
While I didn't know Jeff for as long––or as well as many of you,
being around Jeff was always a good experience. For a while we climbed at The House™.
I would drive my Hyundai Excel over to pick him up. Jeff was never ready to go.
While this might have annoyed me if it was anyone else, whenever I went climbing
with Jeff I just went into a very relaxed state of mind. I think Jeff liked that about me too.
He told me about a certain "Drill Sergeant" who was all-business, and rush rush rush.
He told me he really liked climbing with me because I was so laid-back about departing.
I mean, as far as I was concerned, there was no way in hell we were going
without the obligatory stop at the Peets up by the Claremont!
Jeff had so many funny and entertaining stories about many climbing personalities.
Then there was "The Warden" who reined-supreme over his minions and sub-men.
Knowing that Jeff had a thing for fast cars, I assured him that the same model car
that I drove had been clocked by the CHP at 105 MPH (Rodney King).
He also appreciated that I had a radar detector––which saved us at least twice,
and we talked at length about the merits of various models. I told him he should
shItcan the cordless one and get the one I had, since I had very obsessively researched
the best one to get––and learned that the best corded models had better reception.
Later, when the Hyundai "blew up" mid-span on the Golden Gate Bridge, I was stuck
riding a motorcycle for a while. So I would ride over to Jeff's place, and I would
dump all my riding stuff in his basement while he got ready. One time we took his Supra.
I noticed the sticky racing tires right away. I said:
"Hey Jeff, aren't those autocross tires?"
He really lit up and a very geeky conversation ensued, which probably would have
bored the fuçk out of anyone else. I remember saying "Holy shIt, those tires have
a tread-wear rating of 160!" I told him of how I had similarly rated tires on my
1979 Mazda RX7, and how I used to blaze on Highway 1 and Mt Tam like a bat out of hell.
He absolutely loved my most memorable story involving the RX 7. Hopefully
anyone who had a wild ride with Jeff will enjoy it too...
------------------------------
I was driving a friend from Mill Valley to the Steep Ravine hot-spring at 7:30 am.
I had just gotten the tires recently and was still breaking them in. The RX 7 was
a great car, and a '79 Car & Driver review had described it as having "tail-happy tendencies".
What this meant is that the rear wheels would easily break loose in a turn, but it was very
gradual and controllable; just back off the accelerator a tad and she straightened out nicely.
The rotary engine just loved to be operated right at the redline of 7000 RPM,
and the sound was awesome. So we're ripping over the hill with screaming engine
and scuffing tires (they didn't squeal––they made a scuffing sound when they slid out).
Right past the Slide Ranch, we came sliding around a corner where the giant land-fill area begins.
I was startled to see a CHP motorcycle cop standing on the far side motioning me to stop.
I about shat my pants. I'm thinking: "This is it; I'm going to jail"...
The cop leaned over to me and asked:
"What the hell do you think you're doing?"
Without thinking or hesitating, I blurted out with a straight face:
"Just testing the adhesion limits of the new tires, sir..."
Totally deadpan, and without showing any reaction whatsoever, he said:
"Do you want to end up over the side of the cliff?"
With genuine remorse, I replied:
"No, so I should probably slow it down a bit"...
He gave me a hard look and said:
"Yes, I think so"...
-and let me drive away.
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The last week has been surreal. I went to see The Bridge at the SF Film Festival
on Monday. I was still reeling from that when I talked to Jimi about Jeff on Wed.
I really wanted to talk to Jeff, but I had no way of knowing that I had less than 24
hours to do so. I have mixed feelings about this, because on one hand I was worried
about him and missed any chance I might have had to try to help him, especially since
my perspective is different than most (that's as far as I'll get into it here).
But on the other hand, all of my memories of Jeff are from happier times.
It's weird––Sunday was the worst day by far for me, sort of a delayed reaction.
I was over in Berkeley yesterday with one of Jeff's oldest friends, who was working
2 blocks away from where Jeff was found. He said by pure coincidence, Jeff appeared
two weeks ago at the Buddhist Center where he was working. Greg came out and
said: "Hey, you need a hard-hat to be here"... Jeff didn't recognize him at first,
but then gave him a big hug, and told him how happy he was to see him, and how he was
glad to have him as a friend. He had no clue whatsoever of what was to come.
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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I've been waiting for good Jeffery driving story.
Jeff used to race (Indy cars or something) when he was in his twenties, and was a master driver. When I was a kid, maybe 19 or so, I remember the first time I rode with Jeffery down Tioga Pass Road in his old Dodge Colt (he'd buy the cheapest car he could that he knew would perform, and slap the most expensive race tires on it). Imagine now, riding down that treacherous grade doing 90, sliding every corner. Jeffery was always completely relaxed and in control, and I never made a peep. I saw it as a challenge, and I know he was trying to get a rise outta me, but I've never felt safer as a passenger - Jeff could stop on a dime, and perform absolute magic behind the wheel. He was a natural.
OK, occasionally I came close to shitting my panties, but I kept it to myself. I looked up that guy like nobody else, and always looked forward to a fun ride.
I have some slides getting scanned that I will share soon.
Peace.
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QX
Trad climber
Oakland
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May 10, 2006 - 02:42am PT
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Jeff was a close friend of a close friend. From the times I've talked with him, genuine and considerate are what sticks out in my mind when I think about Jeff. He spoke with you as an old friend would. This rock-star treated me as a peer when asking about my climbing, even though he knew that the hardest I'd ever led was
in the single digits, and my trad days were sooo long ago. And he always looked out for people. I remember him running after us to make sure we were awake enough to climb, make sure we had the right gear on us.
One summer at Banff, '98 maybe, we drove by a gear shop where they were displaying in the window a big painting of the Climbing cover shot of Jeff. Three of us were excitedly whooping it up, and Jeff just looked at it with a sideways glance and grin, and said quietly, "Oh yeah...", in recognition. Down-to-Earth, that's Jeff...
My deepest condolences to his wife, Deb, and his family. Also to Steve and Heather, Amelia, Jim, Jennifer, and all the others who've lost a dear friend, I'm so sorry. You've been in my thoughts since I heard the very sad news last night. -Chaincy
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Yorock1
Boulder climber
El Portal, Ca.
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May 10, 2006 - 11:00am PT
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Damn What Tragic News! I never knew it was that Bad Bro.
We talked and I knew the house was causing problems but never did I think it would come to this. Jeff was a great Friend. I met him in the 89 or 90. Back in the Day Show-Nuff And I would meet up @ jailhouse in the early days, Climbing till it was to hot and greasy to hold on. I remember Waiting for him and as he was dropping in to the curves I could hear his tires screeching. He latter let me know that the drivers side tire s don’t last that long. I remember the trip that he and I took with Eppi to the Needles, what a killer trip. It was cool. When Cityrock had the pumpkin pump he insisted I stay with him and we had so much fun eating Indian food and drinking beer. One of My Favorite Climbing Days was in 1992 with Heather, Jeff and I in Tuolumne, It was late in the fall and We Climbed and goofed off all day and than We all bivied in the Tm Rescue Site. As My Family Grew I got out climbing less and less, but Jeff was still a bro, Stopping by to visit on his way in and out of Yosemite. In the past year we did talk often but hadn’t managed to get together as often. Jeffe you will be missed. Peace Bro. Deb if you need anything @ all, anything!
Mark Deger El portal, Ca
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2006 - 02:57am PT
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Often the most sensitive are the first to go.
We should be so lucky they are here at all.
I'd love to hear more tales of his right good living.
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patagonia gal
Big Wall climber
oakland, CA
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May 11, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
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I first met Jeff in the early 90s, that fateful day Amelia, Jeff and I hung out in one of those beautiful meadows in Yosemite Valley. I remember lying in a tall field of grass and wild flowers laughing and playing as if it were yesterday. At the time I was just beginning to date my now (for ten years) husband Steve. I recall Jeff was also just meeting Steve at that time and was very smitten and respectful around him. That was 15 years ago and since then Jeff, I’d say, has accompanied Steve and I on around 60% of our
Adventures. Somehow (luckily) he was always there.
Jeff had a great style, especially his sense for fashion. My favorite part were his combinations…you know the tight sweat pants with the unevenly buttoned, silk, tye-died shirt ( Jeff loved silk) accompanied by the ever expanding quiver of Birkenstocks, from the roman wrap around version to the tightly woven slip on’s, Jeff had sandal for all occasions, even the special ones, although that might be due to the fact that my husband borrowed Jeffs “best dress” shoes and never returned them.
I actually got to both see and talk to Jeffe a lot in the past few months. Upon my return from Patagonia, on Feb 4th, I noticed a tremendous change in Jeff. Steve and I recently took Jeff to the valley to try to help, he was distraught. I tried to tell him it would be ok, that things were going to get better… I reminded him of summer…but it didn’t help. I realized then that the problem was too big for me to handle. It was at this point that I failed, for I should have contacted his wife Deb or his family, but I didn’t…
I didn’t want to get in the way.
Jeff could get depressed sometimes, but in the end, he was always just jeffe again…but this time was different.
Jeffe was one of my best friends. He was always there for me. I’ll never forget his warm smile, mischievous sense of humor, and his enormous heart that touched everyone he met. He was my comrade, my confidant, my friend, and family. If one were to ask me what was most important to Jeff? I would reply: Being a great husband, Being a dedicated and observant son and brother and being a loyal and honorable friend. I now know my (our) lives will never be the same without Jeff. For me there is defiantly a huge void. If I could just stop crying, I might be able to begin to scream. I miss you Jefferoo. May your spirit rest gently. Siempre, tu es mi amor. Heather Baer.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 11, 2006 - 05:33pm PT
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I'm really sorry to hear of your loss, Dave. Why is it always too late when we hear about this?
Answer: You have to live every day as though it were your last.
This means we have to value those whom we love, and make the effort to keep in touch with them. Because after we're dead and gone, it's not about how much money we made, it's not about how much stuff we had, it's sure not about what rocks we climbed!
What you remember about someone is your love for them.
I just spent a week paddling, portaging and fishing with my dad. He's 81 this year, and he "carried his age" at least half a mile along one portage, before I ran back to "rescue" him. While his health is perfect, he could be dead tomorrow.
So I try to make the most out of every opportunity.
If there is someone whom you love, and haven't spoken to in a while, maybe today is a good day?
In Him,
PTL and PTP Pete
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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May 11, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
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Well, a couple shots from back in the day, circa 1987 or so. Jeff had just bought a new glider and we went up to the Whites to test fly the puppy.
Notice the funky cords, with button missing on the fly. Also note the cloud street lining up along the range - a fine day for soaring. Jeff was an expert pilot in the day, logging many flights in excess of 100 miles.
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