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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Personally I think doing stuff on those 'lower elevation domes' with 20 mile approaches is a lot more impressive/committing than those Hulk routes that have 2 hour approach and a crag feel to them. Don't have to be high in altitude to be in true wilderness.
True indeed. The Hulk is practically cragging these days.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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Yes, of course it's an easy hike to the Hulk. But the climbing is just SO FUN!
Blood of the Monkey could be another awesome addition to the list. It's about time for a hard all free route on that wall! Can't wait to see the trip report!
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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I think you'd want to include Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages 5.11, A0 24 pitches in the list for the climbing as well as the approach which adds a touch to the hardman classification...Ha! The aid might go free, it's about 30' of bolt ladder through a pretty steep blank section. The route goes all free via another variation, but then misses a lot of spectacular climbing.
we freed the short tension traverse aid at pitch 8 on a follow up ascent in a day.
The name comes from the ages of the 4 guys who were involved in the FA: one each from the teens, twenties, thirties and forties...plus it seemed like it took ages to finish the route!
dave[photoid=251797]
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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FYI for anyone that might be interested in checking it out.
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alpinist
Trad climber
tahoe city
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Jun 12, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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here's an early rough draft of the Wall of Ages route after the FA that also shows the upper dome section with the final half dozen or so pitches...there's several good lines that finish up the dome section
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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Dave, thanks a lot for posting! It's great to have you on this thread! It would be awesome to hear more from you about other worthy routes in the high sierra - I am sure you know more than anyone about where they are hiding.
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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The 10.b route that is in 100 classic climbs has some seriously loose and deadly sections. Even though the crux pitch is super good I would be afraid to recommend it to anyone. Only time I ever saw Rick Harlin loose his cool on lead and place gear on 5.9 ground. My belay ledge moved a bit while I stood on it.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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The Crimson Wall, as described by Kevin Steele. (Sorry, I couldn't manage a screenshot.) Anyone else done it?
Another contender on Mt. Russel would be to free Alex and Bruce' 'Hairline'.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 12, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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Hugo Perez and I got what I believe to be the 2nd ascent of Crimson Wall in 2009. A 2 1/4 days on the wall. An outstanding route and true epic ascent on our part. Recommend to all.
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Amy Ness
climber
ND
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Jun 14, 2012 - 04:52am PT
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I heard there's a new V 5.12 12 pitch route in the portal...the never ending story.
Hehehe
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Ended up going to see what the fuss is about on Merriam peak. Well, it's some of the best climbing in the range! The only thing that I could compare it to was the Hulk, just much higher in elevation and with a longer hike in. The quality of climbing is unbelievable! No topos on the summit, so we had to draw our own. We thought that the left Croft-Rands route was much better. Very sustained at 5.11 and with the most incredible overhanging hand crack that I've ever climbed.
Vlad
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Way to get after it Vlad!
Dave - Whats the word on your route "Center Stage" out there by Observation Peak?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 27, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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Vlad, was nice to meet you (again). Great topo you made, I also looked for Croft's topo in the register but did not find it. I guess it did not last long lol.
Alpinist, wow Wall of Ages moved up to the top of my to do list as soon as I am able to lead 5.11.
From my experience the only route on the Hulk that has a crag feel to it is the easiest line on that thing. Been up P-Vibes? Not too craggy feeling to me, but maybe you're referring to Airstream or Venturri?
That's bogus. Difficulty of the climb is not what determines if the climb is alpine. If you use that logic than 3rd class route up Middle Palisade is cragging (since it is easy) and some R X route in Toulumne is an alpine climb? : ) IMO length/difficulty of the approach, elevation, and lack of crowds is what makes something alpine. Alpine feel is lost when approach is 2 hours, there is a party on 2-4 routes at the same time (with people in line), and elevation of 11K although not small, but not really that big of a factor...But I still really want to get out to the Hulk this year, it's a beauty!
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 27, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Alpine, you got out to Chamberlin (however that is spelled) again? Always fantastic photos!
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Those shots are from last season. Spent 9 days back there. Saw 11 clouds. 6 mules. 4 dudes. 3 new routes. 2 no-bake cheesecakes. 1 free standing pillar summit.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jun 28, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 28, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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The Alpine: always bringing the goods.
Every time you have a season in the Sierra it's like Christmas for Sierra climbers around the globe.
Has (hard) climbing in the High Sierra ever been photographed as incredibly?
Great thread indeed!
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jun 28, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Thanks le_bruce! But I can't take all the credit. As this register entry states, "its good to pack a gun!"
Thanks rope guns.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Bump for Merriam Peak.
The Croft-Rands Left is totally awesome. Spectacular position, good rock and sustained climbing. Destined to become a classic! Maybe it just needs a better name. Perhaps the Super Direct North Buttress...
We cleaned off some loose rock and the route is really solid after the first pitch. Vlad's topo is easy to use and the 5.11 pitches all felt pretty similar in grade.
Red arrow points to the killer hand crack on the Croft-Rands Left route.
Further research, as mentioned in another thread, supports that Croft & Rands were not the first ones to climb the roof shown above. See: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107679186
Either way its a great pitch and the croft route, which had a different start and finish then Brandon's Route, is spectacular.
Do it!
 Luke
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