New Route on Keeler Needle - Blood of the Monkey


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Trad climber
Lone Pine
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Lone Pine locals Myles Moser and Amy Ness just finished putting up a new 16 pitch route on Keeler, called Blood of the Monkey, rated VI 5.12

They spent 10 days, 9 nights on the wall and added 13 bolts, none to pre-existing routes. The route joins the Lowe route and Ammon McNeely's Australopithecus for a handful of pitches.

Richard P. posted these awesome pics on the Whitney Portal forum (which I am shamelessly linking):

To quote Myles and Amy: "It was f*#king rad, man!!"

Trip report and topo to come.
Sol Wertkin

Leavenworth, WA
Jun 10, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
Great job you guys! Excited to read the TR!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jun 10, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
They had more than one stalker.
My virgin ears heard a lot of cussin from up there. Great job!

Time to put up a route on this

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 10, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
That is a gorgeous part of the wall. Great work! Looking forward to a TR!

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jun 10, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Sounds like they did their job in good style!
Amy Ness

Jun 10, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Josiah we miss you...
Thanks for the nice replies. My mind is still racing, but il try to have a trip report up this week:)

Way out there....
Jun 10, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Good job kids!
Myles Moser

Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 10, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
We had attempted the push early this winter, for the First Winter Ascent as well

But this is what happened -

[Click to View YouTube Video]

The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jun 10, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
You guys are awesome, but your TR's always make me hungry for a cheeseburger!

Social climber
No Ut
Jun 11, 2012 - 02:18am PT
Way to go Myles and Amy!


I digs it.

Congrats to a couple of stout-hearted pups.


Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Jun 11, 2012 - 03:02am PT
Congrats Amy and Myles. You guys are incredible. Hope to see you soon at the Portal if you're not up on your next big adventure.

Big Wall climber
Jun 11, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
That's Awesome! Congrats Myles and Amy!

Looking forward to checking out the topo and seeing which parts shared Australopithecus (aka: Southern Monkey).

Cheers, Ammon

Social climber
Jun 11, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Awesome job! Looking forward to the TR!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jun 11, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
Nice you guys!
I regret not having a camera when I was up there.
Send the TR please.

Social climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Way to dial S for Send you two. Did you find a shovel up there? Way to kick off the summer season.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:17am PT
Great winter video too. Bad weather loves you. I should of known it would hail/snow on the day (June 1st I think) we hiked in to iceberg LOL...

Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Sweeeeeeeeeeet you 2!! Hope I run in to you guys again. Did you copy my pack? thought I saw it in the photos. Buuuuuuuurly.

Myles Moser

Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 14, 2012 - 02:44pm PT


Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jun 14, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
Leave Bubbs Creek Wall alone Vitality! ;)

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 14, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
Nice work! I think I caught part of that ascent during a recent trip. Here are two pictures I snagged (taken 5/31) -

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