This weekend on Everest, predictions


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ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
May 26, 2012 - 12:16am PT
^^^ agreed. I don't see the attraction.

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
May 26, 2012 - 12:30am PT
29,000 feet? Am I the only one here who understands meteorology? Basic atmosphreic physics? You think writing a 70,000 dollar check is gonna buy you safety up there? Am I the only guy who read "Into Thin Air?" Krakaur was one bad-ass climber, and when he writes about how he almost died up there -- not because of bad rock, or shitty anchors -- but simply because there is no Oxygen to breath -- I go, "whoa".

Roughly 235 torr at the summit. Thin air indeed.


Smog Angeles
May 26, 2012 - 03:08am PT
Yogi Berra's quote about a bar in Brooklyn comes to mind:

"Nobody goes there anymore because it's too crowded."

May 26, 2012 - 04:49am PT
Between this thread and the one on soloing the WF of El Cap, I'd say this forum is getting pretty jaded. Here's an idea: how about limiting ourselves to 10 posts between every time we actually climb something? That would put some brakes on the natural tendency to fill cyberspace with thick layers of bullsh#t.

On belay!

Trad climber
May 26, 2012 - 05:04am PT
Any word on how chad kellogg is doing?

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 26, 2012 - 06:29am PT

I'm guessing he's going to go for it tonight maybe now that the crowds are down?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 26, 2012 - 08:00am PT
Any bulletins on the difference between "many" and "several?"

The Ears of America await the Voice.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 26, 2012 - 08:03am PT
It's the only two games in town.--Yogi
Jon Beck

Trad climber
May 26, 2012 - 10:24am PT
Those Yogi quotes are great, even the second time around

Deja vous all over again

Were those one liners original material of Yogi?

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
May 26, 2012 - 11:31am PT
It would be great to go back there, with a group of friends and climbers from ST, and climb some 6000+ meter peaks.
We would all be like kids in a candy store.

Sign me up Riley . . . time to get some serious altitude. No internet allowed!

Stewart Johnson

lake forest
May 26, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
rw-cholatse is a trekking peak and the permit costs 500$.

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 26, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Here's the news on Chad Kellog.

For those following Chad Kellogg, his SPOT tracker indicates he did not summit and turned around just below the South Summit. He was climbing without supplemental oxygen but did have a Sherpa in support with oxygen trailing him. These are my interpretations and there is no further information I could find.
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
May 26, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
A friend of mine currently from Bend, OR summited around 6 AM this morning Nepal time. Got to watch the sunrise from the top of the world.

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 28, 2012 - 03:39am PT
It sounds like Conrad exhausted himself helping fix lines and decided to not summit with the team. Then rebounded with a second wind and went up alone and summited without O2.
Kudos Conrad.

Everest 2012: Weekend Update May 27
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The final week in May is always special in the Khumbu – the end of the Everest climbing season. Sherpa families anxiously awaiting their loved ones to return from the time honored role of leading Westerners to the top of the world.

Many Westerners are reflecting on what happened to them over the previous 7 weeks and a few hardy ones waited anxiously for their chance; perhaps the last of the spring season.

With this back drop, on a normal year climbers would confidently began the climb towards the South Col and North Col. But this has not been a normal year. Only 7 days ago, one of the worst nights in Everest history took 6 lives combined on both sides. It shook the Everest community to it’s core but also took center stage on the world press.

Story after story warned of another death climb this weekend. Headlines lead with the story of over crowding, bad weather and unnecessary risks. The teams left their base camps taking it all in stride and focused on their task at hand.

With all the weather services aligning around May 23-25 as a low wind period, Thursday and Friday emerged as the next, and potentially, last window of the spring 2012 season. The teams set out with determination and an increased sense of safety. The most experienced commercial teams positioned extra Sherpas at the High Camps with emergency oxygen and stood ready to lend assistance to their climbers.

The first wave of the period arrived early, lead by Kenton Cool with the Olympic Medal – he was taking it the summit and hopefully sending a live video to the BBC once there. He reached the summit but the computer froze – Kenton did not. He was followed by scores of climbers with about 90 reaching the summit Friday morning in good conditions. No lines were reported at the usual suspects. This was not reported widely by the press.

On Friday night it was round two and these climbers enjoyed perhaps the best weather of the entire season – no winds, clear skies, mild temps – for climbing Everest that is. The meteorologists should be proud of this prediction;they were spot on. Another estimated 100 made the top on Saturday morning with some arriving well before sunrise – a testament to their strength and the conditions. This was also not reported widely by the press, I think I see a pattern

These are some of teams who enjoyed success over the weekend:

Kenton Cool: with 2 climbers and 1 Sherpa
Adventure Consultants: 2 climbers, 4 Sherpas
Peak Freaks: 5 climbers, 6 Sherpas
Jagged Globe: 6 climbers, 4 Sherpas
Benegas Brothers: 4 climbers, 2 Sherpas
International Mountain Guides Classic team: 12 climber, 14 Sherpas
Mountain Trip: 5 climber, 10 Sherpas
SummitClimb: 3 climber, 3 Sherpas
Asian Trekking Eco Everest and Everest Youth: 12 climbers, 12 Sherpas
Indian Army: 3 climbers, ? Sherpas
RMI (Dave Hahn): 2+ climbers, ? Sherpas
NatGeo: 6 climbers, ? Sherpas
The Indian Army enjoyed success with several “lady officers” reaching the summit and the first Indian Everest summit without supplemental oxygen. Also, Bangladeshi Wasfia Nazreen summited.

Mike Moniz went on to summit Lhotse within 24 hours of his Everest summit. IMG Sherpa Chewang joined him. They made the summit 3:15!

Chad Kellogg, who was trying to climb from base camp to summit and back in under 36 hours or so, did not summit according to the SPOT GPS tracker he was carrying and a Tweet from his sponsor. Over on the North, another disappointment was when Hungary’s Dave Klein turned back on his no O’s north side attempt early Saturday morning.

**1963 Reenactment Effort Ends
Remaining a mystery to track, the NatGeo team did summit but their overall leader, Conrad Anker, said he was too tired to go with his team after helping fix lines but then changed his mind and summited without supplemental O’s on his own.**

Similarly, the Eddie Bauer/First Ascent team provided little updates but Dave Hahn, leading the South Col climb, did. RMI reported, he and fellow guide Melissa Arnot did summit “with the team” but no other names were mentioned including Sherpas. Both of their respective West Ridge efforts were canceled due to icy conditions. Finally, Simone Moro, said he would go home and not attempt his No O’s climb or his Everest Lhotse Traverse.

Body Recovery
One final note on the deaths for this update. According to Ganesh Thakuri, managing director of Utmost Adventure Trekking and Shriya Shah-Klorfine’s guide service, efforts to return the climber’s body who who died last weekend just below the Balcony came to a halt on Saturday as high winds stopped the team of 6 Sherpas from taking her further down than the South Col. It is uncertain they will be able to remove her body this season. My understanding is that the full recovery would cost about USD$25,000 and was helped by insurance.

The End?
Thus far there have no reports of incidents as climbers work their way back through the Icefall to base camp. This was a huge concern throughout this particular season. There are reports of the normal end of May slush, water run-off and melting but thus far the teams, including the Sherpas breaking down the high camps, are safely making their way through.

So we might see a few more attempts until the Icefall Doctors remove the ladders on the South on May 31, but I doubt it. Similarly there could be a few more efforts on the North. That said, I have learned to never say never on Everest!

My annuals season summary will be posted in a few days. Lot’s to talk about from rockfall to new routes to huge retreats, deaths and of course, many many summits.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

If you have received value from my work during this 2012 Everest season, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you:

100% for Alzheimer’s
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 28, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Blahgh blahgh blagh.

It's blahrney, sliced very thin so you don't have to chew so hard mentally.

But we need theater, absurd or real.

Everest is the center stage.


The Voice of Anker

Listen to the audio.

There are some of CA's photos posted at, apparently.

Safe flight home, Conrad. Congratulations on surviving the "hurt Locker," or any Locker!

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 28, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
The first wave of the period arrived early, lead by Kenton Cool with the Olympic Medal...reaching the summit...He was followed by scores of climbers with about 90 reaching the summit early Friday morning in good conditions. No lines were reported at the usual suspects. This was not reported widely by the press. Another estimated 100 made the summit on Saturday morning...

It "was not reported widely by the press" BECAUSE: 1) nobody gives a sh#t what 190+ people do with their $75,000+ Bucket List fund except their small circle of friends, brown noser's, tag alongs and those who would benefit from their will. 2). It has become an endevour, THAT, in general and on a personal level, is incredibly vain and/or outrageously focused on the monetary gains and ego boost from personally reaching the summit or coordinating and diverting an inevitable catasrophe/record breaking disaster. 3).It has become a monumental joke/no big deal, except for those involved. 4). Nobody gives a shit(Oh, i already said that, but it's worth repeating). 5) i could go on, but, nuff said(imo, lol)...!!

DON'T YOU GET IT?? THAT is what the world(everyday mother f*#ker who works his/her ass off for a living and barely makes the rent if they got a place to call home)could give a flying f*#k about and why it would only be worth taking the time to read about it and therefore "was not reported widely in the press" BECAUSE, unless another(inevitalble, at the rate things are going) disaster occurs! And why he/she may be putting their hard earned bucks down on a Vegas bookies long shot that this will be the year that the record of '96 will be broken. And with 90-100+ a day reaching the summit i hear that a lotta peeps have been doubling down this year...but it looks like this won't be the year, eh? Or not this Spring anyway!!

Pretty simple, for everyday folks, life is a bittch and then you die. Why should they care about some self centered mofo's increasingly lame objective of reaching the highest sunmmit in the world along with thousands of others be of any interest to them? Unless it is news worthy. Sad to say that it has become just what it is...not worth reading about(and therefore not newsworthy) except by the afore mentioned small group of friends of the "Summits[er's]" That is unless...!

So, it is only a matter of time, Muddah Nature always has the last word, or so they say, eh? So poney up, there's a lotta money to be made(or so my bookie tells me)!

Forgive me for being crass, but isn't that what this thread is about(predictions)? And additionally, what the above "Summit" poster brought into question(lack of interest via the press/world in general).

I'm just your ordinary street level pundit(and therefore understand in advance that nobody gives a sh#t what i have to say), and i could add a lot more, but why waste the time, eh? just sayin...


Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 28, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
My understanding is that the full recovery would cost about USD$25,000 and was helped by insurance.

Because the Napalese government is running a business on Everest it is their responsibility to keep the store clean. The amount of corpses littered on that mountain and all the talk about "too dangerous" is pure hogwash. The military never leave their dead behind. On Everest, hundreds march right past over 260 corpses, up and down. There's no money is body recoveries but there's no honor or dignity leaving them up there in plain sight, then pandering "They died doing what they wanted," cha cha cha.

Sleeping Beauty
Sleeping Beauty
Credit: Largo

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 28, 2012 - 07:16pm PT

Social climber
May 28, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Yep, Chad decided to turn around - from Rock & Ice, reported by Duane Raleigh:

Chad Kellogg Turns Back at 8,600m on Everest

According to Chad Kellogg's sponsor Outdoor Research, he did not summit Everest, and turned around short of the South Summit. This was posted to the OR Twitter: "8,600m. Things weren't going well. Chad made tough decision to turn back. Is at South Col now. Kudos on great effort and a brave decision.

Gave it a good go. Glad you made it up and back, my friend!
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
May 28, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
So has anyone tweeted from the summit yet?
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