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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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Conrad and co. is going for it. But another 200 people are too.
Will there be another mess like last weekend? Conrad will do fine but will there be another conga line up to the summit??
Will he end up rescuing people who can't survive without O2 while waiting for their chance at the summit?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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May 23, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Are we doing an "over or under" on deaths? Cool!!! Where is my wallet.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 23, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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I'll bet that they don't have any more deaths due to acute alcohol poisoning.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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Fatty, you get it. This is going to happen.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 23, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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I predict death and lots of it.
To say Conrad will be OK is to forget Rob Hall.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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May 23, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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Its funny to me that the guy who pulled his whole operation out says the reason is that the conditions were too dangerous. For him this meant the lack of snow and the dangers of falling rock and ice. Yet seems to ignore what appears to be an even bigger danger, which is the crowding.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 23, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
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The latest reports say that "only" 70 are trying it this weekend.
Let's hope that's true.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Amazingly, I actually know a few people who've climbed Everest. And when I say I "know", I'm talking about people I was pretty tight with. People I met when I was living back east, mostly. I know a couple of people who missed topping out by inches -- they swung around 30 minutes from the top. Weird. Ond not on the "Yak" route, either. Crazier, more obscure routes. The whole Everest thing is wierd these days. I swear, if I ever had a chance, I'd go for it. But that's never gonna happen. I'm the classic armchair mountaineer. Even if the best 10 Himalyan climbers on the planet lined up and romised to put me on 02 at 13,000 feet (my personal retching altitude) and wheel me to the summit on a guerney, I'd be like "no way." Reason #1: Pride. If I were going up there, I'd wanna lead every pitch. Reason #2: Fear: Way too dicey, way too scary, way too small a margin of error. Ever read Duecy's description of a true-to-God A5 pitch? Sh#t, I read that, then contrast it to descriptions of a bad day around the summit of Everest, and I swear to God I'd just as soon put a gun to my head. I'm not built for that kind of sh#t. Badly protected 5.11 seems pretty casual by comparison.
So WTF are these people thinking!? Everest used to be this massive, insane undertaking that you thought about only after you'd done the Eiger a couple of dozen times. 29,000 feet? Am I the only one here who understands meteorology? Basic atmosphreic physics? You think writing a 70,000 dollar check is gonna buy you safety up there? Am I the only guy who read "Into Thin Air?" Krakaur was one bad-ass climber, and when he writes about how he almost died up there -- not because of bad rock, or shitty anchors -- but simply because there is no Oxygen to breath -- I go, "whoa".
I dunno. Good luck to 'em, all of ''em. But dayum...70% of the peple up there right now should have a little bit more respect for their lives.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 23, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
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Are predictions of death and mayhem on Everest morally defensible?
Great big no. It's not a moral dilemma. It's accuracy.
Can Fluoride prevent death on Everest?
Ask the dentist, he's the thirty-fifth guy from the end of the Conga line.
He has no clue to that, either.
We may seem ghoulish, but that dude is foolish.
How will he fill the time in the parking lot at the Step?
Watching the tank empty.
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area , California
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May 23, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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Ama Da Blan
The queen of Nepal
I'll take it
lost two good friends on 8000 meter last year
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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May 23, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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So many variables here.
Above 20,000 feet, drinking and eating compete with your airway. So drinking or eating leave you gasping. Over time, you'll be skimping on both and your body isn't getting what it needs for that trip down. It's nearly impossible to sleep, the organism knows it needs more air and you wake up quickly, hyperventilating. So some of it depends how long they've been at what altitude.
Why many Everest expeditions will get acclimatized, park loads at the high camps, come down briefly, eat sleep then go back up for the summit push.
Stupid little mistakes are the wild card that pick people off. At - 50 degrees, even having your hand unmittened briefly, leads to frostbite and numbness. So a little gear mistake can leave your hand numb leading to major consequnces later on. Especially when you're in a traffic jam and can't move.
So to make a prediction, you'd really have to know how long they'd been how high. How experienced they are. You'd also need to have wind and temperature, snow depths. As I said in another thread, given that Conga Line, I'm surprised only 4 died.
The icefall is responsible for a major percentage of normal deaths, the seracs can collapse at any moment.
So I'll shoot out an out-the-ass guess. Pleading from anxious relatives will thin the herd. I'm gonna predict two. One in the icefall and one heart attack from a heart that someone demands too much of.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 23, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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It seems safe to predict that about 2% of those reaching 8,000 m or higher will die on the mountain, and that the percentage will increase if there is poor weather, an avalanche, or some other problem.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 23, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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They
are
gonna
DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111111
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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If 150 tried the weekend 4 died, 200 going for the summit this weekend? You may as well put odds on this being the worst death season on Everest.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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May 23, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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Beth, 300 tried that last weekend. 150 approximately each day. As I understand it.
But I could be totally wrong.. haha. the reports are a bit confusing.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 23, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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Given that they have internet service at Base camp I wonder if they are betting how many of us will die on the American Highways this weekend?
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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May 23, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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I'll bet that they don't have any more deaths due to acute alcohol poisoning.
That may be a little more funny if the decedent was a depraved Westerner rather than a Sherpa, who for all we know had little or no experience with alcohol until introduced to it by the white man.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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May 23, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Hundreds summit, awesome photos and video appear on YouTube, guides get rich, Sherpas rake it in on tips. All is A-OK.
Flash-forward a year, the lulled warm-and-fuzzy from the previous season's over-the-top success takes over, and a massacre ensues.
These are somebody's children ferchissakes.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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May 23, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Does this Hillary Step have a 5.7 face option like the chimney on Cathedral?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 23, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Let's hope for the best but be prepared for the worst. . .
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 23, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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Its funny to me that the guy who pulled his whole operation out says the reason is that the conditions were too dangerous. For him this meant the lack of snow and the dangers of falling rock and ice. Yet seems to ignore what appears to be an even bigger danger, which is the crowding.
Does it? Or did he simply choose to leave that part out of his statement? Consider this, you're a guide and you run a large expedition like that are you gonna tell people that it's too bloody crowded up there anyways so we might as well not go? Not very good advertising.
I think he took everything into consideration including the traffic and said, screw this lets get the f#$k outta here!
It sounds like these guys don't have much confidence in the icefall route this year. Which is probably why the rush is on.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 23, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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"Worst of all, I had known the fear and ignorance, the lust for power, the blind-ness of heart which had made these things possible. I am a reporter--yes. It is my trade to know and to record. But I am also a man; every man has his point of surfeit, and there, in that summer of 1950, I had reached mine. It was not a soldier's surfeit: of killing, of the fear of death. In a way it was worse. It was the surfeit of the onlooker, the uninvolved, the privileged, the God-player, and it lay like a cold mortmain on my heart."--James Ramsey Ullman, Sands of the Karakorum, 1953.
I suppose I ought not be as cynical as I seem to be having read the above.
It is serious bidness. But it is a bidness. The "recreation bidness."
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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May 23, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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I'm sure Condrad is more happy getting people to the top, than carrying them down. I'm sure he's there more or less to help people fulfill their quest, than to be the hero of terrible outcomes.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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I have a feeling something bad will go down this weekend up there and Conrad will be the hero.
Books and speaking rights to follow as he much deserves anyway.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 24, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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That may be a little more funny if the decedent was a depraved Westerner rather than a Sherpa, who for all we know had little or no experience with alcohol until introduced to it by the white man.
Everyone knows I'm the biggest fan of Sherpas around here, but in the interest of accuracy I have to say that they were well acquainted with alcohol before they ever met a white man. The difference is that they lived on the margins of survival before and after a week of drunken parties during festivals, they had to go back to work in order to eat.
What mountaineering income has allowed them to do is overindulge on a daily basis. The first to suffer were the elderly whose dutiful sons gave them money from what they earned. Being retired, they spent their days drinking. Now it has percolated down to some of the younger ones.
The Sherpa who died of acute alcohol poisoning according to Russel Bryce who employed him for many years, came from a family of alcoholics, so probably had a genetic predisposition for it. Bryce had also paid for his rehab three times before finally firing him last year.
As a consequence of this, many younger Sherpas never touch alcohol or they drink only at festivals and only home brew that is not distilled. They recognize it is a problem made worse by their new found affluence.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 24, 2012 - 08:22am PT
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Happy Seventy-first, Robert Z.
It was weird just now.
I came downstairs, turned on the TV
to catch the 5 am news
and caught instead the man
who said at 4:55
there are up to 200 there
in the thin cold air.
It was weird just now.
I'm 64 today and some of these guys
won't make it through the weekend
and that will be reported
on CBS Sunday Morning
and then we'll go on about
our other business news.
It was weird just now.
There is no "downstairs"
in my studio apartment
for there's no room
just as their was no room
for "failure" in the mind
of the good Doctor.
It was weird just now.
To remember that today
is Queen Victoria's birthday
who knighted Sir George
and also of Bob Dylan
who said of "failure"
things we should remember.
You know what's weird?
You could be killed by a rolling stone
or drink yourself to death with Rolling Rock.
Dead is dead.
Let's be grateful
Bob never told us
To climb the highest mountain.
MFM
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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May 24, 2012 - 08:24am PT
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I saw a Facebook message from the AAC yesterday saying there's now been 11 deaths on Everest this season? There was nothing more. Anyone seen anything in the mainstream press?
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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May 24, 2012 - 08:33am PT
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i predict chaos, madness...here's hoping we have a miraculous event-free weekend...
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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May 24, 2012 - 08:44am PT
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Some years ago Jamling Norgay, (Tenzings son) told me that I should reconsider Everest as the crowds, garbage, etc, were just too much. He was pretty bummed about the whole deal. People shitting in his backyard and showing 0 respect for the Goddess Mother were his main points.
Good vibes going out to Conrad and co. And to everyone else up there too, even if they are wankers.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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May 24, 2012 - 09:06am PT
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How will he fill the time in the parking lot at the Step?
Texting and posting on Facebook.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 24, 2012 - 09:08am PT
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 24, 2012 - 09:13am PT
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I predict Chad Kellogg will set a new Everest speed record this weekend.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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May 24, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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My friend Mark Jenkins is on Conrad's team. Hoping for success and safety for all.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 24, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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I hope that no one perishes. Best of luck to all there.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 24, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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This weekend on Everest
Weekend warriors?
Do people only climb it on weekends?
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monolith
climber
albany,ca
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May 24, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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The weather is clearing for the weekend.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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May 24, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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You can get reports direct from Everest basecamp on the ShortWave radio. As of about 8 minutes ago, 3 more have perished just from reading this and the other Everest thread in their entirety.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 24, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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You can get reports direct from Everest basecamp on the ShortWave radio. As of about 8 minutes ago, 3 more have perished just from reading this and the other Everest thread in their entirety.
Now that is funny!
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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May 24, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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Now that is funny!
Funny? He's serious.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 24, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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The latest news is that about 100 people are going to try it from the
south side tonight and who knows how many from the north and what the
total will be with all the Sherpas figured in? Some groups are already heading out.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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You're right Jan.
everestnews.com says a huge wave of people have started up for the summit. Weather window opened early.
Best wishes to Conrad and his crew.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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May 24, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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My prediction is Simone Moro is going to make a fricking killing on rescues with his shiny new Eurocopter parked in basecamp . 10 to 20 $k per flight I wager he is going to gross a very pretty shiny penny or two....
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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bmacd - is Simone a pilot for helo rescues there? Tell me more.....
That guy is so badass.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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May 24, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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Conditions that aren't ideal ensure that teams will be moving more slowly or that a problem will develop. Crowding makes your incident my problem, too. Falling stuff is affected by how many people are walking on and touching stuff that falls.
I won't predict, but I will pray.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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"05/23 Everest 2012: Luigi Rampini who was reported dead by 'reporters' is descending the mountain; alive."
everestnews.com
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 25, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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That is great news Flouride.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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"
24 May
I am back in base camp for a day now organizing a 2nd summit attempt.
Richie and Steve waited in camp 2, but all the others decided to go down and try to recover in the thick air of base camp.
For most of our members our summit attempt on the 20th had a big emotional and physical impact. Most of us were prepared to see some tragedy, but not on this scale. So only 4 members decided to try again. Tomorrow John and Sandra will scale the icefall one more time to join Ritchie and Steve in C2.
Our plan is to summit on the 26th, early in the morning. According to the weather forecast there are low winds again; which gives us a chance to climb high.
Stay tuned for more news,
Arnold Coster, Expedition leader"
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 25, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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I have a feeling something bad will go down this weekend up there and Conrad will be the hero.
Books and speaking rights to follow as he much deserves anyway.
No one is immune to the dangers involved in high altitude moutaineering.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 25, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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the problem with oxygen is you will run out. which will happen if you are a slow person and didnt play in the snow when you were a child.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Kalimon -
I said that cause of all the people on the mountain, he's the most capable of going without O2 bottles. That's what killed the ones last weekend.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 25, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Simone Moro has just cancelled his attempt at climbing Everest with no oxygen due to crowding on the fixed lines.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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May 25, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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From Voice of America today
Several climbers are heading for Mount Everest's summit, despite concerns of overcrowding after four deaths last week.
Many are trying to take advantage of what is seen as the last weekend of good weather to reach the 8,850 meter summit.
Officials in Nepal say at least 50 climbers reached the top of the world's highest peak early Friday. Close to 100 others were also on their way to the top of Mount Everest.
I like how the writer describes over 100 climbers as "several"
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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May 25, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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How fortunate for everyone else there will be an ace rescue pilot on standby at the basecamp heliport now.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 25, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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“Hello, this is Mark Jenkins reporting for National Geographic from Mount Everest.
“Well, we did it. This morning, May 25, all five of us—Kris Erickson, Hilaree O’Neill, Sam Elias, Emily Harrington, and myself—summited Mount Everest 55 days after we first arrived in Base Camp.
“We left Camp 4 on the South Col at around 9:30 p.m. wearing our puffy down suits, oxygen masks, and headlamps. Looking up the black mountain, we could see at least a hundred pinpricks of light, all in a vertical line going straight into the stars. These were the headlamps of all the climbers who had started before us.
“We first ascended the face, passing three bodies frozen in the ice. Reaching what is called the Balcony, we ridge-walked for four hours all the way to the South Summit, descending only slightly, we then climbed the famous Hillary Step, reaching the summit beyond.
“The wind howled from start to finish. And without goggles, we would have quickly frostbitten our eyes. We all had to pass dozens upon dozens of climbers, a fair number of whom have no business being on Everest. Crowds of inexperienced climbers are generally the bane of the highest point on Earth if you take the standard route. But there are over a dozen other routes for hard-core mountaineers.
“None of us get more than a few minutes on the summit. The irony and absurdity of which, I admit, we are all fully aware. Climbing Mount Everest makes absolutely no sense at all.
“Why do we do it? Well, we all need some deep sleep before we can answer that. Assuming we even can.
“Mark Jenkins, reporting from Mount Everest, National Geographic.”
Note: Conrad Anker did not summit with the team this morning. After a long hike from Camp 2 to Camp 4 on Thursday, May 24, he determined that it would not be in his best interest to make the final push. He was spent after several days helping Sherpas fix the ropes up the mountain. “I did a 5,000-foot day yesterday, and it was just too much,” he said. “I tapped all my reserves.”
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 25, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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Good for Conrad.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 25, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Way to go Mark!
-didn't he graduate the same year as us (and Todd S) Mike?
Mouse Fm, are you related to Dr Sprock?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 26, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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the Everest scene is lame and has been so for decades
it takes a special species of narcissist to bother with that slag and the riffraff it attracts. They can have it.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 26, 2012 - 12:16am PT
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^^^ agreed. I don't see the attraction.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 26, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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29,000 feet? Am I the only one here who understands meteorology? Basic atmosphreic physics? You think writing a 70,000 dollar check is gonna buy you safety up there? Am I the only guy who read "Into Thin Air?" Krakaur was one bad-ass climber, and when he writes about how he almost died up there -- not because of bad rock, or shitty anchors -- but simply because there is no Oxygen to breath -- I go, "whoa".
Roughly 235 torr at the summit. Thin air indeed.
Curt
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onyourleft
climber
Smog Angeles
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May 26, 2012 - 03:08am PT
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Yogi Berra's quote about a bar in Brooklyn comes to mind:
"Nobody goes there anymore because it's too crowded."
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 26, 2012 - 04:49am PT
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Between this thread and the one on soloing the WF of El Cap, I'd say this forum is getting pretty jaded. Here's an idea: how about limiting ourselves to 10 posts between every time we actually climb something? That would put some brakes on the natural tendency to fill cyberspace with thick layers of bullsh#t.
On belay!
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kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
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May 26, 2012 - 05:04am PT
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Any word on how chad kellogg is doing?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 26, 2012 - 06:29am PT
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I'm guessing he's going to go for it tonight maybe now that the crowds are down?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 26, 2012 - 08:00am PT
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Any bulletins on the difference between "many" and "several?"
The Ears of America await the Voice.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 26, 2012 - 08:03am PT
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It's the only two games in town.--Yogi
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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May 26, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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Those Yogi quotes are great, even the second time around
Deja vous all over again
Were those one liners original material of Yogi?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 26, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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It would be great to go back there, with a group of friends and climbers from ST, and climb some 6000+ meter peaks.
We would all be like kids in a candy store.
Sign me up Riley . . . time to get some serious altitude. No internet allowed!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 26, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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rw-cholatse is a trekking peak and the permit costs 500$.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 26, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Here's the news on Chad Kellog.
For those following Chad Kellogg, his SPOT tracker indicates he did not summit and turned around just below the South Summit. He was climbing without supplemental oxygen but did have a Sherpa in support with oxygen trailing him. These are my interpretations and there is no further information I could find.
http://www.explorersweb.com/offsite/?source=http%3A%2F%2Ffeedproxy.google.com%2F~r%2FTheBlogOnAlanarnettecom%2F~3%2F3qgjt5Jj3tA%2F&lang=en
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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May 26, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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A friend of mine currently from Bend, OR summited around 6 AM this morning Nepal time. Got to watch the sunrise from the top of the world.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 28, 2012 - 03:39am PT
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It sounds like Conrad exhausted himself helping fix lines and decided to not summit with the team. Then rebounded with a second wind and went up alone and summited without O2.
Kudos Conrad.
http://www.explorersweb.com/offsite/?source=http%3A%2F%2Ffeedproxy.google.com%2F%7Er%2FTheBlogOnAlanarnettecom%2F%7E3%2Fi-nWEZ9RzGw%2F&lang=en
Everest 2012: Weekend Update May 27
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May
27
2012
The final week in May is always special in the Khumbu – the end of the Everest climbing season. Sherpa families anxiously awaiting their loved ones to return from the time honored role of leading Westerners to the top of the world.
Many Westerners are reflecting on what happened to them over the previous 7 weeks and a few hardy ones waited anxiously for their chance; perhaps the last of the spring season.
With this back drop, on a normal year climbers would confidently began the climb towards the South Col and North Col. But this has not been a normal year. Only 7 days ago, one of the worst nights in Everest history took 6 lives combined on both sides. It shook the Everest community to it’s core but also took center stage on the world press.
Story after story warned of another death climb this weekend. Headlines lead with the story of over crowding, bad weather and unnecessary risks. The teams left their base camps taking it all in stride and focused on their task at hand.
With all the weather services aligning around May 23-25 as a low wind period, Thursday and Friday emerged as the next, and potentially, last window of the spring 2012 season. The teams set out with determination and an increased sense of safety. The most experienced commercial teams positioned extra Sherpas at the High Camps with emergency oxygen and stood ready to lend assistance to their climbers.
Summits!
The first wave of the period arrived early, lead by Kenton Cool with the Olympic Medal – he was taking it the summit and hopefully sending a live video to the BBC once there. He reached the summit but the computer froze – Kenton did not. He was followed by scores of climbers with about 90 reaching the summit Friday morning in good conditions. No lines were reported at the usual suspects. This was not reported widely by the press.
On Friday night it was round two and these climbers enjoyed perhaps the best weather of the entire season – no winds, clear skies, mild temps – for climbing Everest that is. The meteorologists should be proud of this prediction;they were spot on. Another estimated 100 made the top on Saturday morning with some arriving well before sunrise – a testament to their strength and the conditions. This was also not reported widely by the press, I think I see a pattern
These are some of teams who enjoyed success over the weekend:
Kenton Cool: with 2 climbers and 1 Sherpa
Adventure Consultants: 2 climbers, 4 Sherpas
Peak Freaks: 5 climbers, 6 Sherpas
Jagged Globe: 6 climbers, 4 Sherpas
Benegas Brothers: 4 climbers, 2 Sherpas
International Mountain Guides Classic team: 12 climber, 14 Sherpas
Mountain Trip: 5 climber, 10 Sherpas
SummitClimb: 3 climber, 3 Sherpas
Asian Trekking Eco Everest and Everest Youth: 12 climbers, 12 Sherpas
Indian Army: 3 climbers, ? Sherpas
RMI (Dave Hahn): 2+ climbers, ? Sherpas
NatGeo: 6 climbers, ? Sherpas
The Indian Army enjoyed success with several “lady officers” reaching the summit and the first Indian Everest summit without supplemental oxygen. Also, Bangladeshi Wasfia Nazreen summited.
Mike Moniz went on to summit Lhotse within 24 hours of his Everest summit. IMG Sherpa Chewang joined him. They made the summit 3:15!
Chad Kellogg, who was trying to climb from base camp to summit and back in under 36 hours or so, did not summit according to the SPOT GPS tracker he was carrying and a Tweet from his sponsor. Over on the North, another disappointment was when Hungary’s Dave Klein turned back on his no O’s north side attempt early Saturday morning.
**1963 Reenactment Effort Ends
Remaining a mystery to track, the NatGeo team did summit but their overall leader, Conrad Anker, said he was too tired to go with his team after helping fix lines but then changed his mind and summited without supplemental O’s on his own.**
Similarly, the Eddie Bauer/First Ascent team provided little updates but Dave Hahn, leading the South Col climb, did. RMI reported, he and fellow guide Melissa Arnot did summit “with the team” but no other names were mentioned including Sherpas. Both of their respective West Ridge efforts were canceled due to icy conditions. Finally, Simone Moro, said he would go home and not attempt his No O’s climb or his Everest Lhotse Traverse.
Body Recovery
One final note on the deaths for this update. According to Ganesh Thakuri, managing director of Utmost Adventure Trekking and Shriya Shah-Klorfine’s guide service, efforts to return the climber’s body who who died last weekend just below the Balcony came to a halt on Saturday as high winds stopped the team of 6 Sherpas from taking her further down than the South Col. It is uncertain they will be able to remove her body this season. My understanding is that the full recovery would cost about USD$25,000 and was helped by insurance.
The End?
Thus far there have no reports of incidents as climbers work their way back through the Icefall to base camp. This was a huge concern throughout this particular season. There are reports of the normal end of May slush, water run-off and melting but thus far the teams, including the Sherpas breaking down the high camps, are safely making their way through.
So we might see a few more attempts until the Icefall Doctors remove the ladders on the South on May 31, but I doubt it. Similarly there could be a few more efforts on the North. That said, I have learned to never say never on Everest!
My annuals season summary will be posted in a few days. Lot’s to talk about from rockfall to new routes to huge retreats, deaths and of course, many many summits.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
If you have received value from my work during this 2012 Everest season, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you:
100% for Alzheimer’s
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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May 28, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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Summits!
The first wave of the period arrived early, lead by Kenton Cool with the Olympic Medal...reaching the summit...He was followed by scores of climbers with about 90 reaching the summit early Friday morning in good conditions. No lines were reported at the usual suspects. This was not reported widely by the press. Another estimated 100 made the summit on Saturday morning...
It "was not reported widely by the press" BECAUSE: 1) nobody gives a sh#t what 190+ people do with their $75,000+ Bucket List fund except their small circle of friends, brown noser's, tag alongs and those who would benefit from their will. 2). It has become an endevour, THAT, in general and on a personal level, is incredibly vain and/or outrageously focused on the monetary gains and ego boost from personally reaching the summit or coordinating and diverting an inevitable catasrophe/record breaking disaster. 3).It has become a monumental joke/no big deal, except for those involved. 4). Nobody gives a shit(Oh, i already said that, but it's worth repeating). 5) i could go on, but, nuff said(imo, lol)...!!
DON'T YOU GET IT?? THAT is what the world(everyday mother f*#ker who works his/her ass off for a living and barely makes the rent if they got a place to call home)could give a flying f*#k about and why it would only be worth taking the time to read about it and therefore "was not reported widely in the press" BECAUSE, unless another(inevitalble, at the rate things are going) disaster occurs! And why he/she may be putting their hard earned bucks down on a Vegas bookies long shot that this will be the year that the record of '96 will be broken. And with 90-100+ a day reaching the summit i hear that a lotta peeps have been doubling down this year...but it looks like this won't be the year, eh? Or not this Spring anyway!!
Pretty simple, for everyday folks, life is a bittch and then you die. Why should they care about some self centered mofo's increasingly lame objective of reaching the highest sunmmit in the world along with thousands of others be of any interest to them? Unless it is news worthy. Sad to say that it has become just what it is...not worth reading about(and therefore not newsworthy) except by the afore mentioned small group of friends of the "Summits[er's]" That is unless...!
So, it is only a matter of time, Muddah Nature always has the last word, or so they say, eh? So poney up, there's a lotta money to be made(or so my bookie tells me)!
Forgive me for being crass, but isn't that what this thread is about(predictions)? And additionally, what the above "Summit" poster brought into question(lack of interest via the press/world in general).
I'm just your ordinary street level pundit(and therefore understand in advance that nobody gives a sh#t what i have to say), and i could add a lot more, but why waste the time, eh? just sayin...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 28, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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My understanding is that the full recovery would cost about USD$25,000 and was helped by insurance.
--
Because the Napalese government is running a business on Everest it is their responsibility to keep the store clean. The amount of corpses littered on that mountain and all the talk about "too dangerous" is pure hogwash. The military never leave their dead behind. On Everest, hundreds march right past over 260 corpses, up and down. There's no money is body recoveries but there's no honor or dignity leaving them up there in plain sight, then pandering "They died doing what they wanted," cha cha cha.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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May 28, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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^^^AMEN!!
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 28, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Yep, Chad decided to turn around - from Rock & Ice, reported by Duane Raleigh:
Chad Kellogg Turns Back at 8,600m on Everest
According to Chad Kellogg's sponsor Outdoor Research, he did not summit Everest, and turned around short of the South Summit. This was posted to the OR Twitter: "8,600m. Things weren't going well. Chad made tough decision to turn back. Is at South Col now. Kudos on great effort and a brave decision.
Gave it a good go. Glad you made it up and back, my friend!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 28, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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So has anyone tweeted from the summit yet?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 28, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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Sorry Largo, but I fear that having a "dirty" store might actually increase the appeal.
Remember the Eiger birds?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 28, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
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Ron's talking about the vultures that roosted at Kleine Sheiddig, isn't he?
Go, all you Boo-birds, tell it!
Give Splitter some more RED Bull, too.
Wave the RED flag for John.
It's all stale popcorn, guys.
RIP.
Same time next year.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 28, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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Yeah, it was because of the Eiger birds that the Diamond was off limits until 1960.
Sort of unfair to Johnson, Northcutt and Kor.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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May 28, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
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viejoalpinisto- "Every life is precious...but why do I treat them with such disdain?" CP Good question/quote, and certainly worth spending some time pondering. Hopefully, it's not them personally, per say, that we find dispicable or "disdainful"(people we find dispacable in general)but some of their actions and motives. They have other, hopefully admirable, traits which we may not be aware of that more appropriately define them. Of course, when these actions and motives in there entirety are what define a person, ie. Hitler/Natzis, then that is another matter. He didn't respect the life of others one iota. And, I believe that is not the situation here. But, perhaps some of these folks should reacess the possibility that their objective of reaching the summit of the Big E may very well cost the life of someone else. Would it still be/have been worth it? If someone should say yes to that question...then I would indeed find them truely "distainful", dispicable human beings in the broader sense of the word!
viejoalpinisto- "You need look only deep inside your own soul to see what is truly dispicable." CP
^^^Dat so true!!
edit: Oop's, the above quotes are from the "Guiding Everest is not morally defensible." thread. Sorry, I accidently posted it on this thread. But perhaps it is apropos...whadevah!!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 28, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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MH, I remember reading that someone has tweeted from the summit.
Meanwhile I'll post on this thread as I did on Donini's Everest thread,
that it's unrealistic to expect the Nepalese government to do anything
about this anytime soon. They are on the verge of renewed civil war over
the issue of how to structure the new constitution.
The acting parliament has been dismissed on the instructions of the Supreme
Court and the acting president is a Maoist who has called for fresh elections
six months from now.
The issue is whether the new states within the country will be based on
geography which favors the high caste Hindus or will be based on ethnicity
which favors the tribal people who have been exploited by the high castes
for the past 250 years. The stakes couldn't be higher.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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May 29, 2012 - 07:54am PT
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I agree with Largo that the Nepali govt is responsible because of their business interests, and that the "military don't leave their dead behind" is a very strong argument. The fact that the Nepali govt may be in total disarray and on the verge of revolution doesn't mean Everest isnt important to them. The tourist trade is most of Nepal's economy and Everest must be a source of pride. You could look at the chaos as an opportunity also. It really depends how people interpret these deaths and how they view the guiding industry.
By the way, I practice a kind of personal injury law in which I represent war crimes victims against corporations that are somehow involved in the crimes. It is generally not possible to sue govts over these kinds of things, but corporations are vulnerable. Mountain climbing guides, even if they behave with total disregard for their clients' safety, would probably not be worth suing because they are not the wealthiest people. A big guiding company could be, but I doubt it. The government of nepal generally would not be, but this is a weird situation where the government is running a dangerous business with people dying because of the commercial pressure. It may be an argument against sovereign immunity. A typical wrongful death case is worth between $2-3 million dollars. So there is a potential motive out there for people to put pressure on the Nepalis, if they think political changes are in order.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 29, 2012 - 08:37am PT
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Today in 1953, Tenzing and Hilary were the first to
stand on the summit of the big E. . .
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 29, 2012 - 10:27am PT
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Today is the 5th International Mt. Everest Day in Nepal, celebrated with
various people in the tourist business including chefs in their tall hats,
marching down the main street to a rally in front of the palace. The
Mt. Everest to Namche Bazaar marathon was also held. No male Sherpas
were winners, too tired from the mountain to participate much I guess.
The first three placesin the women's division were won however, by
Sherpanis.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 29, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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By the way, I practice a kind of personal injury law in which I represent war crimes victims against corporations that are somehow involved in the crimes. It is generally not possible to sue govts over these kinds of things, but corporations are vulnerable. Mountain climbing guides, even if they behave with total disregard for their clients' safety, would probably not be worth suing because they are not the wealthiest people. A big guiding company could be, but I doubt it. The government of nepal generally would not be, but this is a weird situation where the government is running a dangerous business with people dying because of the commercial pressure. It may be an argument against sovereign immunity. A typical wrongful death case is worth between $2-3 million dollars. So there is a potential motive out there for people to put pressure on the Nepalis, if they think political changes are in order.
Uh oh . . . here come the lawyers.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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May 29, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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lol - I wouldn't do a case like that, don't worry. I only do war crimes. But the threat of a lawsuit is a good way to change people's behavior. Of course, it would only make sense if people thought the Nepali govt needed a wake up call.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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May 29, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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Actually though, I think the best thing would be for climbing organizations to write letters to the Nepali govt making constructive recommendations.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 30, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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It seems it has already been suggested that two fixed lines be put up, just as some have suggested we need two sets of cables on Half Dome.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 30, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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having been to the big e four times i really dont see a problem.
lots of dollars for the local population, trickle down economics at its
finest.
one of the poorest nations(nepal) are not going to turn anyone with money away.
and china loves money more than china loves china.
a pity about the deaths but when these clients join up they sign a waiver
which discusses their demise.
summer monsoons should clean up the mess(not)
im wondering how much it costs to get a bottle of o2 to the south col ,north col etc?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 30, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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The fact that the Nepali govt may be in total disarray and on the verge of revolution doesn't mean Everest isnt important to them.
That's why at present it is unrealistic for the Napalese gov. to conduct any kind of program to clean up their open graveyard on Rverest. The country is in political shambles. Good article in the LA Times this morning on the worsening crisis in Nepal.
JL
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Conrad
climber
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Back in LAX after a fine tooling by the Taking Scissors Away team. They have my number.
Thanks for the kind words. made it to the summit on the 26th at 10:05 am. It was windless, climbing in fleece gloves and absolutely no crowds. Many climbers leave the South Col camp around 8 or 9 in the evening and summit at 3 or 4 in the morning. I left camp around 12:40 and missed the crowds. wonderful sunrise at the Balcony and good conditions otherwise.
'twas a fine day. The scene isn't that bad. People are polite and the Sherpas are the kindest and most helpful folk around.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Wouldn't let you board with ice tools again, huh?
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Conrad
climber
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Nah... The Peshawar Glock warranted the "pat down".
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Congrats to another time up there, Conrad.
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Glad you are back and had a good & safe trip Conrad!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Charlie told me about the Peshawar gun bazaar.
Cool that you can try out pieces on the spot, but the warrantees are worthless so you better know what you are buying.
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