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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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Hardly a rant Old Eric, please don't stroke out on me. It's the internet, I am voicing an opinion based on my many years in the mountains, others, like you, might not agree.
Bruce Kay +1
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 16, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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"what guides have done for decades - whore themselves out to suppose their lifestyle."
You make me feel so dirty.
And no....it's not the same.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 16, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Donini takes first on a passed ball sack. What an at-bat. Ten foul ball sacks in a row...
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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May 16, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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The most annoying thing about people on Everest to me is the trash pile they leave behind (non organic).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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I was a guide for seven years in the Tetons. Alex Lowe guided on and off for most of his life. Nothing at all wrong with guiding, it has a long and, mostly, honorable history. The question is that some have wondered what is legitimate, given the margin of saftey and other considerations, to guide and what isn't. I agree that it is largely a personal decision.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 16, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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I guided my way through college and grad school and have nothing against it.
He wrote: "The guides are just doing what guides have done for decades - whore themselves out to suppose their lifestyle. No different then working for Exum."
Is it the case that everyone who lends their expertise to something or someone is a whore? Is a "virgin" someone who is pure, but broke and does not work?
JL
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 16, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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"The most annoying thing about people on Everest"
It is a small point, considering, but everyone seems to err in this regard:
The name of Sir George, the Welshman who surveyed India, is pronounced with a long "e" not a short "e." Like "Donini ain't no weenie."
EE-vrest. Sir George EE-vrest. Not Ever rest. Not Ev rest.
You can say Chomolungma with practised ease, so what's the problem?
Ah, no one seems to know or care. I care. It annoys me to hear Hondle, when it is Handle (Handel), Rooeez (Ruiz) when it's reese. Pay attention, Norvegion (Norwegian).
But what do the Welsh expect with such a perverse tongue?
Eve rest his soul. And the souls of all the departed.
You guys got "Exum" down cold, though.
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micronut
Trad climber
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May 16, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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I was recently in REI....buying a swivel in the climbing area....when a dude walks in spouting about summiting Everest recently to any employee within 10 meters. Fit dude, short shorts. Probably did summit. He's talkin all loud and braggerdy and really kind of a tool. No lie, he actually said "It's like you're on top of the world." He had gathered a bit of a crowd, including some shoppers.
I couldn't help it.....I straight faced him,
I said, "Dude, great job...but you know they measured it a year ago and its now the third tallest. Yeah...National geographic did an article on it a while back. But third tallest is still pretty cool."
The blood literally drained out of his face. I felt kinda bad, but had a chuckle and went on my way. Am I evil?
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miwuksurfer
Social climber
Mi-Wuk
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May 16, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Your only evil deed was stepping into REI.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 16, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Guides who show people their Tetons are like topless dancers, but guides who rely on Sherpas to risk building a yellow brick road for one percenters are pimps.
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rmsusa
Trad climber
Boulder
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May 16, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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It's certainly dangerous, but I don't see a moral issue guiding a person who's been fully informed. Individual guides might decide not to do it anymore, but you'll have to explain the moral issue to me. Seems to me that if the guide is fully qualified and performing to capabilities with a fully informed client, s/he's acting morally no matter what happens along the way.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 16, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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Way to bring to bring the tool back to earth there Micro. Well played.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 16, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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"He had gathered a bit of a crowd, including some shoppers"
Yeah, it always makes me shake my head how being guided up Everest earns the instant respect & deference of the inexperienced.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 16, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Took you long enough to get there, P'ton. But succinct.
"Well-played."
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 16, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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"Guides who show people their Tetons are like topless dancers, "
Nice analogy...but that's just not a fair characterization.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 16, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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So when is the first beat-down?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 16, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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Doing the Seven Summits shouldn't be regarded as climbing.
It isn't.
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micronut
Trad climber
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May 16, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Vitaliy got hauled up Third Pillar by a Cheburashka. I don't think he is qualified to comment on this thread.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 16, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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Doing the Seven Summits is climbing. You just got to swap leads. If you bring a guide, you should still try to swap leads. But then, perhaps the reason you need to buy a guide to swap leads is that you are a screw-up or an egomaniac with few "friends" who can't take your A-type sh#t diring a climb. I hope I never meet a stooge that is that messed up that he has to hire a guide to get the top seven. What a loser from the get-go.
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Mister_Roborto
Trad climber
Queensland
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May 16, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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Might anyone know how much a fully qualified IFMGA/UIAGM guide from the West will get paid for an Everest XPD by one of the top tier companies (there are only a small few who are truly top tier)?
Theree's alot of time spent waiting and acclimatizing, anyone know how much 'mountain school' clients get while hanging out with their guides from the top tier companies while on the mountain?
Anyone aware that the top tier guide Everest in accordance with the UIAGM charter?
Anyone know the accident/incident rate among Himlayan Experience and Adventure Consultants run trips?
Huge respect for Alex and no intending to slight the man. Might you know how much did Alex get paid for guiding millionaires up Everest?
Back in the day, you only had to guide Everest twice to then have a tonne of cash to secure a humble home. Many of the world's best guides don't get paid anything like that much these days and guide for reasons in addition to income.
Ever guided the BI in the Tetons while hikers crossed above your client in the early morns?
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