Guiding Everest is not morally defensible

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Messages 481 - 500 of total 642 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
zBrown

Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
May 24, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
What is all this loose talk? You don't think surfers were not righteously offended when this appeared?



Heels and outfit OK+ to OK+++. Keep that boat out of the line-up.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 24, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
Story on the NBC evening News actually recognized that the crowds have now become an additional objective hazard.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 24, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Why is she still wearing stripper heels? What "athlete" does that?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 24, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
http://bleacherreport.com/articles/1108917-the-25-hottest-female-athletes-in-heels/page/5

Sorry couldn't help myself.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 24, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
those heels look like a good way to break an ankle.

barefoot or sticky rubber!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
May 25, 2012 - 08:56am PT
In this weeks Whistler Pique there's a pretty good article on climbing the big E. Its mostly a perspective from the guides or experienced mountaineers perspective, as opposed to the star struck neophyte. There was no mention whatsoever of either Strippers or stiletto heels and not a single picture of a bikini pulled tight so the journalistic credibility is suspect, but what do you expect from a canadian family rag?

Most notable is the 86 ascent of the west ridge route by Dwayne Congdon and Sharon Wood (without thong, heels or breast augmentation) on a four man team with no sherpa support. The route has not been climbed since.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whistler/to-the-top-of-the-world-and-back/Content?oid=2303571
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 25, 2012 - 09:01am PT
we have climbers giving up thier summit attempts to rescue freinds now,, and no doubt there are LOTS of pizzed clients that wont be getting a chance at anything besides slogging around in whats left of the snow. I wonder if the heli is going non-stop and if base camp is shrinking?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 25, 2012 - 09:26am PT
Guide Companies that accept, allow and encourage inexperienced but wealthy trophy hunters, who cant put on their own crampons or handle disconnecting and reconnecting Jumars, to attempt Everest are not morally defensible.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 25, 2012 - 09:35am PT
Story on the NBC evening News actually recognized that the crowds have now become an additional objective hazard.

Here is the link to the NBC story that Piton Ron spoke about:
http://video.msnbc.msn.com/nightly-news/47558865/#47558865
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 25, 2012 - 10:15am PT
Good piece Plaidman.

When overcrowding is killing more people than objective hazards, something has to change.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 25, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Question: Didnt the guides very well know af the CROWDED conditions -knowing full well it would cut down not only the chances for a summit due to the normal woes but waiting in lines as well? By my rough figures -300 or so will be denied a chance to summit just due to the MASS of people there. Are they bidding at base camp- bribing the guides for "first crack" at any summit attempt by THIER group? I think the only smart guide thus far pulled outta camp a while ago..How booked up is next year? Worse?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 25, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
From the Ueli Steck interview at http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20842

Explorersweb: Are you going for a speed attempt?

Ueli: No. I'm happy to reach summit without O2. Speed ascents on this route are just not my thing. There are so many factors involved that are not really about climbing. What's the point of running up a fixed line? Waiting until sherpas have fixed the mountain, and then myself "the superman" running up the prepared pist? That's not climbing to me, just a marketing gimmick.

And from where do you start the clock? Basecamp? It takes 20 minutes for me to cross BC from one end to the other. Or do you start at the Khumbu Icefall. Where exactly does that begin? I took me two-and-a-half hours from BC to camp 2. I thought it good exercise, like going for a run on a trail.

And is it OK to have gear stashed? Seriously, I could leave my expedition boots at C2 so I could run from BC to C2 in running shoes. I could change into a light mountain boot up to the south col, where I'd put on my climbing boots and change to a down-suit I had left there.

Then of course I would need to have food and water in each camp. And have people and sleepingbags ready in case of emergency. How do you pass people, or deal with the problems that come up if you have to wait?

Explorersweb: Last week we interviewed Pato on the north side, he said he'll ask people to let him by on the ropes...

Ueli: That's exactly why I'm not going for a speed ascent. I don't like to disturb other people. If I can pass I will of course, but if it's not possible I'll have to wait. I don't have the right to push other people around just because I'm Ueli Steck...

Explorersweb: So what's your plan?

Ueli: Have fun climbing.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 25, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
Maybe the guiding fee should double to include a rescue fee...? After all , rescuing someone at that altitude is more difficult than making them ascend a fixed rope via jumars...Wouldn't this eliminate some of the trophy hunting fodder..? RJ
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 25, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
Probably not. But having to demonstrate competency at basic mountaineering skills like putting your own crampons on would.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 25, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Extra money would better be spent I think, by supplying more oxygen and
other supplies to begin with. From what I can see, the smart companies are
having their clients spend 24 hours at the south col resting, sleeping and
hydrating before the final push instead of rushing them from Camp 3 to
the top and all the way back down to Camp 2.

And as Philos says, making the clients demonstrate some compentency
to begin with.




Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
May 25, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
Congrats to Euli for a no ohwz climb! "Sleds Over Everest" toasts the feat!!
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
May 25, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
no ohwz??

Jeez Ron, get with the program. O is what the noobs say.
Sleds over Everest should demonstrate their sophistikation by saying OXY.
;-)
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
May 25, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
somebody tell all those wealthy Everest tourists to spend their money on space tourism instead
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 25, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
Is the mountain stable enough for a full on tunnel and elevator system?

Sleds Over Everest are currently trying to do active research to find out
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 26, 2012 - 02:39am PT
I just knew that climbing that mountain wasn't your real goal!
Now I understand. So who's paying for this expedition?
With lobster and all, I suspect it's the same people who
sponsored those other expeditions in the Himalayas
in the 60's.
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