Freeing a stuck knee

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 39 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Hey folks,

This weekend I had a friend who got her knee stuck in a knee-sized crack. She had good #5 above her, and she was only 30 feet off the ground, so it wasn't an immediate emergency. But when, after 1/2 hour of struggling she was unable to do anything better than fix it further and further, she started getting a wee bit spooked.

Eventually, we got it out, but the only thing that worked was me climbing up next to her, cutting off the pant leg, liberal application of sunscreen, and then me physically pulling *hard* at the leg in the direction it looked like it needed to go, while she relaxed that limb completely.

So this got me wondering - I felt like I was reinventing the wheel up there while I was helping her - anyone have any good tips to share?

Thanks!

GO
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
Steve, this one is for you...
WBraun

climber
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
Dish soap.

That's what we had to use one day for a woman on Mungenella.

It took 3 of us 1 hour to free her stuck knee .....
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha!! That was one of the most famous near-misses in British mountaineering history - Martin Boysen got his knee stuck on Trango Tower when climbing with Joe Brown, Moe Anthoine and others.

Maybe someone can find a link to the epic - unforgettable.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
Gordie Smaill or Al Givler got a foot stuck on the Salathe and the other
had to climb up and cut the back of the other's boot open to extract the
offending and, presumably, offensive foot.
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
Some dad got stuck in a crack up in the Bugs when Blanchard was up there and they airlifted cooking oil in from the resort. . . and it worked.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
And then there was Jason Kruk on "Boogie til you puke"

Of course his problems went further than a stuck knee...
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Don't sh*t your pants. It only makes matters worse.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
Werner wrote:
It took 3 of us 1 hour to free her stuck knee .....

So what was it that did the trick - aside from the lubricant?

For me, it was kinda like freeing a stuck cam, I had to really think hard about what had to go in which direction to find the path out of the rock. But then she was physically unable to do it herself, and I had to have her relax and pull her leg myself.

GO
WBraun

climber
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
It took us a while to make the woman relax.

I was with Jesse the climbing ranger and another ranger.

Her knee was horrendously stuck.

We thought after a while we would need to drill away some of the rock around her knee.

But it finally came out after much effort of pushing from below and pulling from above.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:43pm PT

I can only think of Martin Boysen. . . on Trango.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
Ha - the story is already posted right here on McTopo:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=553289

I would love to read the article, but as always, Steve's scans are too low res with the print too small to read. I don't understand the point of scanning something that is virtually unreadable when it is easy enough to increase the size and resolution of the scan. It's not like there are any restrictions in bandwidth here.

Oh well.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
on the second ascent of yellow brick road, a climber got his knee irretrievably stuck in the offwidth right off the first belay. his partner rapelled to base, ran to the lookout tower and got a plastic squeeze bottle of salad oil, which was used to lubricate and free the leader's knee. the squeeze bottle is still in the crack at the belay. it is recommended that this section be liebacked. always climb safely and avoid the need for rescues.

from the needles guidebook (1992)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 26, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Woohoo, one of my favorite topics! Lots of related threads here on the taco. One was last week I think and has a link to a thread about the fissure Boysen, And Jillian in generator crack. I'll look it up in a while, if no one gets there first.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Mar 26, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
PTPP, quit bitching, I just read the first few sentences with little effort, thanks to Steve for keeping the history alive.

Charles
cintune

climber
Midvale School for the Gifted
Mar 26, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
Just hit ctrl and + if you have a Windows machine. There must be something similar for Macs too. [This will not free a stuck knee, however.]

Americans would call it an off-width crack; I called it something else.
Prod

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
Gotta love a hands free rest?

What were you on Gabe?

Prod.
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Mar 26, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Werner

Was cutting the leg off an option. Or perhaps a blood letting to reduce the overall amount of fluid in the body. How much soap was used and was the site then considered an EPA disaster site or did you use an environmentally friendly soap.

Can people who climb the route now blame their falls on your soap mess?

Is this soap something we can market and get all these stupid people to carry on their harness?

Cedar sh#t himself while stuck in a crack he could have used this soap as well as some paper or a wet one that is both paper and soap that could be used for knee removal and or ass cleaning.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 26, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
I would love to read the article, but as always, Steve's scans are too low res with the print too small to read.

Uh, it's perfectly clear on my screen. Maybe you need some Windex and a paper towel. Or new glasses.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Mar 26, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
liquid wrench

for the real tough cases, liquid plumber.

etches the outer layer of epidermis, which you don't need anyway,

it was left over from the cave man days,

propane torch- not to expand the rock,

heat the guys foot til he rips out the knee from shear pain,

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